Where can I get the best motor mounts???

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:30 am

I'm look'n for good strong motor mounts. Where's the best place?

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:43 pm

OK, found this. I'm going with their recomendation and use the 2.8 mounts without the poly. The 4.3 mounts suck.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:49 pm

So you just order the steel adapter from JTR and then buy 2.8L mounts? EDIT:

JTR wrote:The S10-4.3 HP replacement mount kits includes:

1. 2.8 V6 replacement mounts (part # S10-106), which bolt to the S10 frame.
2. 2.8 V6 to 4.3 V6 steel adapter brackets (part # S10-109), which bolt to the engine. These have slotted mounting holes to adjust the engine position (if needed) to accommodate driveline changes on lowered vehicles. On trucks that have been lowered with angled lowering blocks, it may be necessary to shorten the driveshaft. These mounts allow moving the engine/transmission forward up to 3/8" to eliminate the need to shorten the driveshaft on lowered vehicles.

How much do they cost? EDIT: Looks like $85 shipped.

It says that they have handled a V-8 application. Should be a good choice.

Seems like I have seen some poly mounts on another forum.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 6:27 pm

According to that, it comes with everything. Yea, looks like $85 total.

Looks like what I've been looking for. I was originally looking for possibly poly, but I really don't like the idea of poly. I mean, just think about it. The frame flexes quit a abit when rock crawling. I know, cause I can tell. Now, just think if you had poly, which is basically almost a solid mount. Something can give, and I'd rather it be the mounts than cracking engine blocks, adapters, trannies. That's just my way of thinking anyhow.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 6:40 pm

Those do look like a good option.

As I understand it the poly mounts are just an insert for the 2.8 mounts. So they could be added later if needed.

I would be more worried about the poly mounts wearing out from the street use rather than breaking something. I am running a car with a heck of alot more "twist" than most ever see and I run solid mounts up front. I do run a rubber transmount though. Never run a stiffer tranny mount than your motor mounts. I have seen a transmission twisted it two from that.

I think you are making a good choice. Let us know how the fit, finish and install goes. If I ever break a mount , this will more than likely be the direction I take.

Incidentally, did you break a mount?

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 7:36 pm

It looks like it's separating. I only notice when I am really pushing it hard rock-crawling. It's been getting more noticable the last time I went wheeling, just yesterday. I thought it was some kind of grinding, but then I see rub marks on the fan shroud. I hear they are famous for separating, cause the stupid 4.3 mounts are bonded to the metal mounts. The 2.8 mounts are similar to corvette mounts, inside the mount, which makes more sense. Who the heck engineered that thing is an idiot.

I also hear that some parts stores have a "premium" ones that are actually bolted somehow to the mounts and are better. I may check into this option also. I gotta call around tomorrow.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:11 am

Polyurethane mounts are not all that bad for daily driven vehicles. I have had several cars with poly engine and trans mounts including my SS. You will pick up more vibrations, but not as much as you would think. I would have done the Crew already if someone had true bolt in poly engine mounts. Energy Suspension makes a bolt in poly trans mount for our truck, but no engine mounts.

ES also makes poly body mounts for our trucks which would definitely prevent frame twist and make the suspension do more of the work.

Steve

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:45 am

the best motor mounts are the ones you build yourself. i was just building some today. i am finsihing them up tommorrow. i can post pics if you want.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:34 am

It be nice, but I just don't have the time. Too much other stuff going on. I got new mounts sitting in the truck waiting to be put on, just waiting to find the time. Ugh.

I ended up just buying aftermarket stock from Autozone. They have life time warranty. I'll see how they hold up. I just don't like the looks of the 2.8 ones. It provides sideways shock, but how about back and forth? There is a reason the manufacturer designed them that way, and I don't want to find out the hard way. Guess I'll see in time how they hold up.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 9:58 am

I have used a short length of chain to refrain 4.3 engine movement. It works perfectly fine. My next step however, since one cannot use the JTR mounts on a ZR2, is to drill two 3/8 holes in a set of new motor mounts, and bolt the plates together. This will eliminate the two "bonded" plates from seperating, but will give you the same vibration free isolation the stock mounts provide. The chain will stay as a safety precaution though. I've just seen too many failures of these mounts, and the aftermath left behind because of it.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 8:56 pm

Aarrrgghhh. I'm trying not to be paranoid. I hope the ones I got hold up. I am thinking the stock ones have something built in that prevents it from wacking the side, cause of the way it's made. I haven't done any damage yet. I still think it's designed the way it is for a reason. I can see that maybe even if it separates it hits the frame of the mount some how so the engine doesn't smack anything. I'll lookit when I take it off. Still haven't worked on it yet. Ugh, too much going on.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:58 pm

When those junk 4.3 mounts break, your fan is gonna eat your fan shroud pretty hard. That fan is connected to your water pump.....and that can't be good on it either. Just be easy on it when under a good torque load.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:09 pm

Well, I just replaced them. Now the fan is hitting the top of the fan shroud. WTF. I also see some antifreeze a bit on the engine. Trying to figure where it's coming from. Maybe it did screw up the water pump. Ugh. Looks like more for the weekend to work on.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:27 am

Your fan is hitting the top of the fan shroud...after you replaced the old mounts?

Is it doing this at idle, or under a load? Somethings not right....

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:06 pm

OK, seems everything is in order now after I replaced the tranny mount also. Amazing that stuff dry rots in 5 years. Also replacing the water pump and other pm stuff while I am in there.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 2:55 am

paul, why dont you build your own? you got the tools and you'll never break one again.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:32 pm

Scroll up.

I just don't have the time. I barely have enought time to do repairs. I got too many hobbies. Tomorrow is my off-day, so I am figuring which one of my hobbies I want to do. It's supposed to hit 72 and it feels warm outside right now, so I may take the boat out and go fishing. It may be nicer than my icebreaker run. But it may be very windy, so I may go fly my kite. And I gotta change the oil in my truck, but sometimes hobby time over-rules.

And for all those who have no faith in the red stuff for anti-freeze. I had to replace my water pump cause it was spew'n some fluid, and while in there, I changed my tensioner, idler pully, belt, thermosdat, some hoses. And the red stuff was sparkling clean. I dunno what all the hoopla is about. I put the red back in. One thing I've learned is that whenever you drain/change anti-freeze, always add a bottle of this (notice my review, lol). If you don't you will soon spring a leak!

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:05 pm

quickbiker wrote:Well, I just replaced them.

I need to replace the mounts in my daughter's Bravada, I can barely see the left one let alone get wrenches on it. You make it sound too easy. How is the job?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:34 pm

Engine Mount Replacement - Left
Removal Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove the underbody shields, if equipped.
3. Remove the engine mount through-bolt and nut for the side being replaced.
4. Remove the left hand exhaust manifold.
5. Using a suitable lifting device, raise the engine only enough to remove the engine mount.
6. Remove the bolts for the engine mount frame bracket.
7. Remove the engine mount frame bracket.
8. Remove the bolts holding the engine mount to the engine.
9. Remove the engine mount with the shield.

Installation Procedure
1. Sub-assemble the engine mount, shield, and one bolt.
2. Install the engine mount and shield to the engine.
3. Install the engine mount to engine bolts.
Tighten the engine mount to engine bolts to 55 N·m (41 lb ft).
4. Install the engine mount frame bracket to the frame.
5. Install the engine mount frame bracket bolts.
Tighten the engine mount frame bracket bolts to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
6. Lower the engine.
7. Install the left hand exhaust manifold.
Object Number: 4564 Size: SH
Click here for detailed picture of above image.
8. Install the engine mount through-bolts and nuts.
Tighten
* Tighten the through-bolts to 74 N·m (55 lb ft).
* Tighten the nuts to 63 N·m (46 lb ft).
9. Install the underbody shields, if equipped.
10. Lower the vehicle.

Engine Mount Replacement - Right
Removal Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove the underbody shields, if equipped.
3. Remove the engine mount through-bolt and nut for the side being replaced.
4. Using a jack on the square tab (left side shown) at the rear of the engine block, raise the engine. In order to access the square tab on the right side remove the starter.
5. Raise the engine only enough to remove the engine mount.
6. Remove the bolts for the engine mount frame bracket.
7. Remove the engine mount frame bracket.
8. Remove the bolts holding the engine mount to the engine.
9. Remove the engine mount with the shield.

Installation Procedure
1. Sub-assemble the engine mount, shield, and one bolt.
2. Install the engine mount and shield to the engine.
3. Install the engine mount to engine bolts.
Tighten the engine mount to engine bolts to 55 N·m (41 lb ft).
4. Install the engine mount frame bracket to the frame.
5. Install the engine mount frame bracket bolts.
Tighten the engine mount frame bracket bolts to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
6. Lower the engine and remove the jack.
7. Install the engine mount through-bolts and nuts.
Tighten the through-bolts or the nuts to the following:
* Tighten the through-bolts to 74 N·m (55 lb ft).
* Tighten the nuts to 63 N·m (46 lb ft).
8. Install the starter, if removed.
9. Lower the vehicle.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 4:03 pm

Thanks my GM repair books don't have the step...Remove Left exhaust manifold now it makes sense. I don't know how you could do the job using my books.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 4:10 pm

I do not know if it is possible to skip a few steps. I have found that sometimes the GM manuals either forget a step, or add in a few unnecessary ones.
That should give you some things to look for though. Don't take it as the only way things can be done.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:09 pm

HenryJ wrote:I do not know if it is possible to skip a few steps. I have found that sometimes the GM manuals either forget a step, or add in a few unnecessary ones.
That should give you some things to look for though. Don't take it as the only way things can be done.

I just came in from almost getting the left one out without removing the manifold, but due to my age, short jack stands, no gear wrenches and the thought of really having to struggle with lining up bolt holes got the best of me. The old mounts are broken and flopping around in the way of getting the mount bracket bolts out...grease up to my elbows (unit has leaking oil lines) I had all the bolts loosened up and the through bolt out. allot of the work can be done through the wheel well flap. I gave up and put the bolts back in.

I'm going to pay the shop to do this but at least I have a good idea what the job entails.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:12 pm

Wowzsers. I didn't remove any manifolds. I just took them out. One of the bolts is a bit tricky. I had to use a crows foot on it. I didn't have to jack mine up either, but that among many other benifits of having a solid axle and lifted. It was a bit tricky and required the right amount of lifting the engine up and twisting of the mounts to get them in and out.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:24 am

This Bravada needs oil cooler lines too. I'm thinking about removing the inner fender to do the mounts and the lines. Anybody else removed the inner fender? also anyone know if the lines rockautoparts.com sells are any good? Brand is DORMAN

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:28 am

Who just did that horrific heater core install? I'm afraid to post anymore GM data directions after they claimed that the front fenders need to be removed to remove the ZR5 flares.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 2:50 pm

I get tired of all the steps to do anything in the manual. I just look at it and do it the easiest way, which usually skip a several steps the manual says. The manual is good for looking up torque specs and fluid capacities though, and it does make a good starting point at times.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 3:15 pm

quickbiker wrote:I get tired of all the steps to do anything in the manual. I just look at it and do it the easiest way, which usually skip a several steps the manual says. The manual is good for looking up torque specs and fluid capacities though, and it does make a good starting point at times.

9 out of 10 times, you;ll be doing it the easy way.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:15 pm

I have to replace at least the driver's side motor mount in the CC and also the Blazer. Any suggestions? Anyone ever try the JTR mounts?

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:50 am

I'm a little late, but you guys should check these out.

Conversion pads for using SBC (Small Black Chevy) mounts in a 4wd 4.3 S-series from TurboTime.us

Good friend of mine did the development on these for the Syclone/Typhoon application years ago. Since then the design has been sold/licensed to TurboTime.

You remove the stock frame pads, and then use SBC mounts between these new pads, and the engine. The SBC pads are a clamshell design that still fail locked together. Several guys have put a stock mount on the passenger side, and a solid mount on the drivers side with good luck. Jeremys 11sec Sy is setup this way, and it idles smoother, and with less vibration than my stock CC.

I know I won't ever put a crappy stock mount back in the CC when it fails.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:34 am

My motor mounts busted again. 111k miles. I will be looking for better ones, since this time, it broke my shroud, fan, radiator.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:58 am

Seen The Polyurethene Motor MountsYet ??

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:40 am

Who's actually INSTALLED the Energy motor mounts?, Heat Shield

How-to: Motor Mount Replacement w/ Pics

Synergy motor mounts, Finally installed

These motor mounts are designed to replace GM part # 22173023, and aftermarket part # 2802 for 96-01 4wd S10's.

Keep in mind that these motor mounts WILL increase vibrations especially if you also run a polyurethane trans mount.

The vibration isn't horrible, but it is noticeable.

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:02 am

I'm affraid to put in anything harder, cause I'd rather crack an engine mount than crack an engine block.

I almost forgot about these, which I may get. Any other opinions? Being that i really flex my truck allot on rocks, I'm sure the frame flexes some and think this would be best. Any opinions?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:09 am

If you don't want urethane motor mounts then you will have to buy a set of the older rubber 2.8L S10 mounts to work with the JTR mounts.

I believe Transdapt make a nice set of the older 2.8L mounts which has a more durable rubber that is not as harsh as urethane, but it still better than the cheap rubber 2.8L mounts that most parts stores carry.

I'm pretty sure Summit carries the Transdapt 2.8L mounts that will work with the JTR mounts.

If you want to reduce frame flex install some urethane body mounts.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:13 am

Trans-Dapt Performance Products Part # 4217 Motor Mounts For 2.8L S10's

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:23 am

OK, I just ordered the JTR kit from their site. Maybe it would have been cheaper ordering seperately, but at least I know I'll get it all. Thanks. I should have done this in the first place, but it sucks when ya want to fix it fast and use sucky parts. Ugh.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:30 am

I've been wanting to change the motor mounts in my 05 ZR2 to a safer design that won't separate like the factory mounts do and haven't yet decided if I want the ES urethane bolt in mounts or the JTR conversion kit, so when you get your JTR kit installed can you post your results on how they feel and if you ran into any installation problems?

I just want to do my mounts before any damage happens, not after.

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:30 pm

Maybe the ZR2 mounts are made better, cause I don't see any JTR kits for the ZR2's. I guess they are different.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:52 pm

quickbiker wrote:Maybe the ZR2 mounts are made better, cause I don't see any JTR kits for the ZR2's. I guess they are different.

No, there are plenty of members over @ ZR2 USA who have had broken motor mounts which caused damage to fan shrouds etc., so they are just as weak as the standard s-series mounts.

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:42 pm

I got about all the stuff ordered, but can't locate the plastic piece that the bottom fan shroud snaps into. What is that called? Dealer or junkyard item only? I'd rather get new, they don't cost that much, but not any luck on that item so far.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:21 am

quickbiker wrote:I got about all the stuff ordered, but can't locate the plastic piece that the bottom fan shroud snaps into. What is that called? Dealer or junkyard item only? I'd rather get new, they don't cost that much, but not any luck on that item so far.

I know what piece you are talking about, but I had no luck either trying to find one.

I'm sure every late model S10 in the junkyards still has this piece, but a GM dealer is the only place I can think of that would have the complete tear down manual showing that part.

I've had pretty good luck with the dealerships around here when I couldn't find a wierd part like that.

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:54 pm

I put the motor mounts in a coupl weeks ago, shipping was really fast on them. They are made very well and I can tell by looking at them, it will be the last time I need to replace them. It's fairly tricky to put them in, because of the hinged bolt in the middle, but not too difficult.

Also, I found the the prices on then fan shroud and the bottom peace that I couldn't find online costs less at the dealer. The radiator was only $118, new from Rock Auto, and I was suprised at the great quality of it, I got the Spectra Premium. I never had cooling issues, so I saw no reason for upgrading.

Steventruck · Post by **Steventruck** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:59 am

I use a turnbuckle and several quicklinks to tie down the left side of the motor.

I pretty much went from the frame above the LF shock mount to the engine lifting loop. I did this originally when my stock mounts were on their way out and it held the motor down. Shortly thereafter, I had the broken mounts fixed (both sides, but my mod prevented damage to the tranny mount) and re-adjusted the turnbuckle.

The tie-down prevents major strain on the new mounts, but are slightly loose when the engine is in a neutral state (off, idling) as to not transmit vibration... they have lasted 4 years of daily driving and wheeling almost every weekend.

Steve