When your balljoints or idler arm go bad, how do you know?

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:43 am

Is the main diagnosis of these going bad is a wandering or out of alignment feeling?

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:01 am

I guess what I'm asking how do you check these. Can I measure the play in the arm or move the balljoints?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:32 pm

Front Wheel Bearings Diagnosis

A trip to the alignment shop should be able to diagnose all the frontend componets condition.

MARBLEYARD · Post by **MARBLEYARD** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:59 am

I just found out from my shop's mechanic that both of my ball joints are bad and need replaced. (was causing HORRIBLE tire wear on the front end with an occational knock when turning) The good news was the parts were only costing a little over $100, the bad news is it takes five hours of labor roughly costing $350. He explains to me that basicly the whole suspension needs to be broken down to do the repairs, so... an alignment will be needed too. SHould be included in labor but I don't make the rules. Has anyone attemped to do this themselves and how did it work out? I work in a body shop and have mechanical skills but this is all new to me.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:05 am

If I remember correctly, the stock ball joints are held in place with a pop rivet as opposed to a bolt making it a not so DIY friendly job. The general consensus last time this came up was to let a shop do the first replacement and assuming they install a bolt in replacement, you can replace 'em yourself next time.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:30 am

barch97 wrote:the stock ball joints are held in place with a pop rivet as opposed to a bolt making it a not so DIY friendly job.

A 3/16" drill bit and a chisel will take care of those rivets, but yes they are a bit time consuming the first time around.

Steve

MARBLEYARD · Post by **MARBLEYARD** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:34 am

you make it sound like a rivet(s) is the worst thing to worry about. If it is I am totally cool with that.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:36 am

MARBLEYARD wrote:Has anyone attemped to do this themselves and how did it work out?

Try reading this topic: Cracked upper control arm bushings

My second to last post has a bunch of ball joint links.

Steve

MARBLEYARD · Post by **MARBLEYARD** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:29 am

Thanks for the link, I think my brain is full for the day

I'm gonna let my mechanical dept. do it. My estimating program lists the OEM (upper and lower for both sides) for about $450 and that does not include the 5.6hrs of labor, no R&I on anything else, and no alignment. He said he'll do all four w/ alignment for $463.00. I don't have the time and who wants to do anything like this in this kind of heat.

border man · Post by **border man** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:41 pm

MARBLEYARD wrote:Thanks for the link, I think my brain is full for the day I'm gonna let my mechanical dept. do it. My estimating program lists the OEM (upper and lower for both sides) for about $450 and that does not include the 5.6hrs of labor, no R&I on anything else, and no alignment. He said he'll do all four w/ alignment for $463.00. I don't have the time and who wants to do anything like this in this kind of heat.

Bring it over to my house, I'll do them for $200

As far as the heat goes, I did my roof in 105+ weather

Wrangler · Post by **Wrangler** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 5:17 pm

Use Moog parts, Lifetime guarantee. Doesn't cover labor but parts will be free.

SonomaCrewCab · Post by **SonomaCrewCab** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:24 pm

MARBLEYARD wrote:I just found out from my shop's mechanic that both of my ball joints are bad and need replaced. (was causing HORRIBLE tire wear on the front end with an occational knock when turning) The good news was the parts were only costing a little over $100, the bad news is it takes five hours of labor roughly costing $350. He explains to me that basicly the whole suspension needs to be broken down to do the repairs, so... an alignment will be needed too. SHould be included in labor but I don't make the rules. Has anyone attemped to do this themselves and how did it work out? I work in a body shop and have mechanical skills but this is all new to me.

Lovely! I have noticed a knock when I turn (sometimes) on my drivers side. Almost seems like when I turn into a driveway or somewhere that makes my suspension compress.

MARBLEYARD · Post by **MARBLEYARD** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 3:12 am

I got my ball joints replaced Friday and WOW what a difference! I am glad I didn't attemp to do it myself, I watched the guy doing it and those rivets looked like hell to break off. I got lucky and got my shop discount saving me probably a couple hundred bucks!

CrashNburn · Post by **CrashNburn** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:05 pm

SonomaCrewCab wrote:
Lovely! I have noticed a knock when I turn (sometimes) on my drivers side. Almost seems like when I turn into a driveway or somewhere that makes my suspension compress.

sounds like it could also be a bad CV joint,

SonomaCrewCab · Post by **SonomaCrewCab** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:49 pm

Ya, I know something isn't right. I can feel it and hear it.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:33 pm

If this link is too large or doesn't work please let me know, I'm still new to this whole posting thing.

My 2005 blazer ball joint just went bad. It made a clunk on left hand turns, that is how I knew. 68 000 km's (42500 miles). Every thing else on the front end is tight because I could grease it every oil change, the factory ball joints had no zerks.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:18 pm

Do I need ball joint press to remove the lower ball joint?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:24 pm

Ball joint replacement

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:53 pm

Thank you!