Ball Joint replacement

ESOX · Post by **ESOX** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:28 am

I am going to attempt to change my ball joints this weekend. I was wondering if anybody out there can give me some tips before I tackle this project. I only have the one car so after I get things going I would hate to call a cab to the car part store. Do I need special tools? I have never done this before so any advise you could give me before the spring kills me would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your advice. This forum has literally saved me thousands of dollars fixing everything myself. I am getting ready for the fall hunting season and its the time of year that I really push this little truck to the limit and just want to be sure she gets me and my deer home.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:40 am

welcome to the site!!!!!! have beer on hand for after you finish!!!

haven't done my ball joints yet,,,,can't help much.

and...........good luck hunting!!

20Blazer00 · Post by **20Blazer00** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:48 am

I just recently 2wks ago replaced the lowers on my 2K Blazer.

As far as special tools you might need a "pickle fork" to separate the tie rod ends and to also separate the ball joints from the control arms, you will definitely need a torque wrench to tighten specific nuts to factory specs so as not to damage parts (torque specs are in the text of the procedures that follow).

Also make sure you use jack stands to support the vehicle while working on it!!!! this is for your safety we had one person in our locale that did not use one and was killed.

Since the front suspensions are similar the advice would be similar. But I have the information from the GM Service CD:

Upper Ball Joint Replacement 4WD
Removal Procedure

Raise and suitably support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement .
Remove the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket mounting bolt and nut from the upper control arm.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket from the upper control arm.

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint retaining nut.
Remove the upper ball joint retaining nut.
Using a pry bar, placed under the upper control arm and on top of the frame, pry upward.
With the aid of a helper, carefully hammer on the steering knuckle in the area of the upper ball joint stud in order to release the stud from the steering knuckle.
Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Place a block under the upper control arm to keep the control arm and the steering knuckle out of the way.
Suspend the steering knuckle to prevent straining the brake line.

Remove the rivets from the upper ball joint. Use a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill to cut a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) deep hole in the center of each rivet.

Drill the rivet heads away using a 12.7 mm (1/2 in) drill.

Remove the rivets using a pin punch.
Remove the upper ball joint.
Installation Procedure

Install the upper ball joint to the upper control arm.
Notice
Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the upper ball joint retaining bolts and the nuts. Tighten
Tighten the upper ball joint retaining nuts to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).

Re-install the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut. Tighten
Tighten the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut to 83 N·m (61 lb ft).
Tighten the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut in order to align for the cotter pin. Do not tighten the nut more than 1/6 turn.
Install the new cotter pin to the upper ball joint stud. Bend the pin ends against the nut.

Connect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket to the upper control arm.
Install the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket mounting bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the wheel speed sensor bracket and brake hose bracket mounting nut to 24 N·m (18 lb ft).

Load the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement .
Install the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Inspect the front wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel Alignment.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement 4WD
Removal Procedure

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement .
Remove the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
Drill a pilot hole in the lower ball joint rivets using a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill to cut a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) deep hole in the center of each rivet.

Drill the rivet heads away using a 12.7 mm (1/2 in) drill.

Remove the rivets using a pin punch.
Remove the lower ball joint from lower control arm.
Installation Procedure
Install the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.
Notice
Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the lower ball joint retaining bolts and the nuts. Tighten
Tighten the lower ball joint retaining nuts to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).

Install the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
Load the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement .
Install the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Inspect the front wheel alignment. Refer to Measuring Wheel Alignment in Wheel Alignment.

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:30 pm

You will need a pickle fork and a very large socket for the nut on the CV shaft, thats about it for special tools.

Put the truck on jack stands, take the wheels off. Take the off the brakes and loosen the nut on the CV, probably will want to take a couple wacks at the end of the CV to make sure it isn't stuck in the bearing, Oh yeah, dosconnect the wheel speed sensor.

Put floor jack under the LCA of the side you are working on, pick up on LCA untill that side of the truck is off the jack stand and the UCA is off the top out stop. Remove wheel bearing, only three bolts. Take the large bottom nut off the ball joints, use pickle fork to seperate the spindle from the upper and lower ball joint, move spindle out of the way (you don't need to take the tie rods off).

Now the fun part, get a drill and drill the center of the rivits, then take a chisle and take the heads of the rivits off. Make sure there is nothing left of the rivits.

Put new balljoints in.

Put spindle on lower balljoint and put the nut on, move spindle untill the upper ball joint goes into the spindle, tighten the nuts. Put wheel bearing back on, tighten CV nut, put brakes back on, lower jack, put wheel back on.

Repeat on the other side.

20Blazer00 · Post by **20Blazer00** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:52 pm

Sonoma02,

Removal of wheel bearing is really not necessary, removing the braket for the abs wire is....all he will need to do is get the axle nut off and pull the shaft out of the wheel bearing so he can get access to the nut on the ball joints....

Unless he has to replace the wheel bearings that is.....

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:24 pm

20Blazer00 wrote:Sonoma02,

Removal of wheel bearing is really not necessary, removing the braket for the abs wire is....all he will need to do is get the axle nut off and pull the shaft out of the wheel bearing so he can get access to the nut on the ball joints....

Unless he has to replace the wheel bearings that is.....

Your probably right. When I did it I was trying to get the CV out of the spindle so I had obstruction free access to the rivits. Now that you say that though I don't think I had to remove the bearing all the times I did the balljoints on my 92, last time was number five if I remember right.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:27 pm

No need to unload the torsion bars, support the vehicle weight by putting the jack stands under the outer most point of the lower arms but still allowing clearance to remove the joints.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:34 pm

i had an air hammer, a chizzle and hammer and everything, i could not bust the factory rivots off.... i had no choice but to take it to some one and have it done, it took them 8 hours :/ and when he gave me the keys he told me that the truck was nice but was a total bitch to work on

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:49 pm

You probably did the best you could and made a good decision in cooling off and letting someone else go through h_ll in removing the rivets.

I would have lost my cool and ended up destroying way to much stuff before I sent it off. Did you try grinding them off or anything else? I have not done mine yet and am just trying to learn.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:54 pm

Ball joint replacement

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:38 am

Daniel wrote:i had an air hammer, a chizzle and hammer and everything, i could not bust the factory rivots off.... i had no choice but to take it to some one and have it done, it took them 8 hours :/ and when he gave me the keys he told me that the truck was nice but was a total bitch to work on

All the ball joints I ever did I always drilled out the rivets... never just tried to chizzle them. Regarding the unloading of the T bars. I have three sets of GM manuals 1998. 1999 and 2002 the 98 and 99 say to unload the T bars the 2002 says to support the vehicle under the lower control arms. I always check all three and pick the easy one

If you have them cranked maybe they should be unloaded.

mattfu · Post by **mattfu** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 9:47 pm

great ball joint replacement instructions all. i took my crew in for an alignment after messing with my t-bars and they told me they wouldnt touch it until the worn suspension components were fixed, i have ordered upper and lower ball joints, as well as idler and pitman arm, any other parts (other than tie rod ends) that i can expect to also be worn out at the same time ? Also has anyone changed out the idler or pitman? alignment shop says our truks are a nighmare to change. thx

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:03 am

I changed my pitman arm when I swapped the steering box.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:40 pm

mattfu wrote:great ball joint replacement instructions all. i took my crew in for an alignment after messing with my t-bars and they told me they wouldnt touch it until the worn suspension components were fixed, i have ordered upper and lower ball joints, as well as idler and pitman arm, any other parts (other than tie rod ends) that i can expect to also be worn out at the same time ? Also has anyone changed out the idler or pitman? alignment shop says our truks are a nighmare to change. thx

I modified this tool it works like a dream, I beat on the idler arm with a fork and it didn't budge this popped it right apart, after grinding on it to fit between the center link and the idler, it also worked on the pitman arm.

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:40 pm

I would like to add a little tip for getting the ball joints off. Instead of drilling the rivets off, take a small grinder to the top of the rivets and grind them flush then take a punch and knock them out. A lot less effort to get them out.

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:56 pm

I just use a pickle fork on the idler, havn't had to pull the pitman arm off the steering box yet though, I hear that can be a PITA.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:09 am

Well, I just got done with a state inspection, and apparently my idler arm is going bad. It didn't cause me to fail the inspection. How hard is this going to be? I haven't really looked at it yet. Also, He noticed the passenger side upper CV boot seems to be leaking a bit. I'm going to check it out while I'm working on the idler arm, and possibly see if replacing the clamp will fix it. It just looks like there is some leaking through the original clamp.

So, after I get done replacing the girlfriend's wheel bearing (99 s-10 blazer), I'll be inverting my front shocks, replacing my idler arm, and one rear rotor, (I replaced the front rotors less than a year ago and the passenger side rear was replaced just a couple months ago when the tire installer cracked it while trying to get it off to replace a lug stud for me).

Plus, I just ripped off.

The third brake light was out, and I didn't have any spare bulbs in the glove box that fit. They charged me $10 for the two little bulbs that I could have gotten for $2 someplace else.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:07 pm

Small oversights like yours WVHogRider, is what most inspection stations look for. Most want the simple easy jobs. A State Trooper once told me, that you should know that your vehicle will pass before you take it in. If most people would heed this advice, most garages would go out of business.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 1:51 pm

I know, I know....but I was 10 days over due for the inspection....I guess $10 for two light bulbs is better than a $100 or so ticket for driver on an invalid inspection...

Atleast it's done though..

Anyone one got anymore insight into changing the idler arm? I can't remember if I an air chisel fork or not...I'll see what I can do when I get to it....But now it's time to tackle the girlfriends wheel bearing...

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:05 pm

WVHogRider wrote:...my idler arm is going bad....How hard is this going to be?

Not too bad. You will need to remove the front steering shield. You will need a fork to separate the ball joint from the relay rod. Then just unbolt it from the frame and replace it.
Be sure to align the zerks in a position that is accessible with the shield in place. Most lose the idler arms due to lack of regular lubrication.
An alignment check afterward would be a good idea. After any replacement of steering components an alignment check is warranted.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:24 pm

OK..I'm headed to the store in a minute to get the GF"s wheel bearing and then to my parent's house to do the replacement, (as I still have to build a garage at onto my house). I may get my parts tonight but will not do the install of mine...I had the day off and went on a harley ride with friends instead of doing all the installs today

although, I told her I would possibly do it today/tomorrow

...It was great, but she's mad..

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:30 pm

Sounds familier. I used to have my wife mad at me about half the time. After a while I decided that it was better to not ruffle her feathers. After that, things loosened up a bit, haven't had a major falling out over things like that in about 20 years. Most of the time it pays to pay a little attention to them.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:An alignment check afterward would be a good idea. After any replacement of steering components an alignment check is warranted.

There is no need for an alignment after replacing an idler arm or pitman arm since it does not change any of the suspension geometry.

When you replace ball joints, tie rods or really bad wheel bearings then it is always good to have the alignment checked.

If you haven't had your alignment checked in the past 2-3 years or if you have over 50k miles then it might be a good idea to get it checked anyway.

Steve

mattfu · Post by **mattfu** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:47 pm

upper and lower ball joints replaced, thanks for the tips guys, oh one question , anyone know how much torque i should apply to the ball joint connector nut (castle nut with cotter pin) this ia a taper lock but im not sure if it should be snug or torqued tight. i am doing the idler and pitman in a few days as i am starting my bodylift on sunday, hopefully the bl will give a bit more room to work up there, or at least ill have my bumper off for the bl. idler seems like a 15 min job, pitman who knows. and another greenhorn question why would you invert the front shocks?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:44 pm

killian96ss wrote:
HenryJ wrote:An alignment check afterward would be a good idea. After any replacement of steering components an alignment check is warranted.
There is no need for an alignment after replacing an idler arm or pitman arm since it does not change any of the suspension geometry. When you replace ball joints, tie rods or really bad wheel bearings then it is always good to have the alignment checked. If you haven't had your alignment checked in the past 2-3 years or if you have over 50k miles then it might be a good idea to get it checked anyway.

Steve

The idler holes in the frame are slotted. If the arm is mounted and not adjusted in the slots correctly the center link won't be parallel to the ground. This up and down adjustment will effect alignment.
I also replaced my pitman arm and the splines must not have been machined at exactly the same location because my steering wheel wasn't straight anymore. there are 4 splines that line up with the shaft, it can't be a tooth off.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 12:59 am

mattfu wrote:......... and another greenhorn question why would you invert the front shocks?

Because he put them on "upside" down

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:13 am

Jim wrote:The idler holes in the frame are slotted. If the arm is mounted and not adjusted in the slots correctly the center link won't be parallel to the ground. This up and down adjustment will effect alignment. I also replaced my pitman arm and the splines must not have been machined at exactly the same location because my steering wheel wasn't straight anymore. there are 4 splines that line up with the shaft, it can't be a tooth off

Well, um I'm not going to argue with anyone about this, but try this just for fun.

Put your car or truck on an alignment rack and move the centerlink up and down 1/4" with the idler arm unbolted and tell me how much the right side alignment has changed.

I think you would be surprised to see no more than a .05" difference in camber or caster settings on the right side which is basically nothing.

I've had the chance to do this with my alignment guy on a few cars using his alignment rack.

You did bring up a good point about the center link needing to be parallel to the right and left tie rod studs, (not the ground).

I believe you need to be within 1/16" (2mm) from one side to the other side. It is best to take a measurement on each side that is roughly 3/4 of a turn from center. This is not only important for correct geometry, but it will also help extend the life of both arms (pitman & idler).

Steve

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 4:53 pm

killian96ss wrote:
Jim wrote:The idler holes in the frame are slotted. If the arm is mounted and not adjusted in the slots correctly the center link won't be parallel to the ground. This up and down adjustment will effect alignment. I also replaced my pitman arm and the splines must not have been machined at exactly the same location because my steering wheel wasn't straight anymore. there are 4 splines that line up with the shaft, it can't be a tooth off
Well, um I'm not going to argue with anyone about this, but try this just for fun. Put your car or truck on an alignment rack and move the centerlink up and down 1/4" with the idler arm unbolted and tell me how much the right side alignment has changed. I think you would be surprised to see no more than a .05" difference in camber or caster settings on the right side which is basically nothing. I've had the chance to do this with my alignment guy on a few cars using his alignment rack.

You did bring up a good point about the center link needing to be parallel to the right and left tie rod studs, (not the ground). I believe you need to be within 1/16" (2mm) from one side to the other side. It is best to take a measurement on each side that is roughly 3/4 of a turn from center. This is not only important for correct geometry, but it will also help extend the life of both arms (pitman & idler).

Steve

Toe is the factor I would think the center link would effect most. only if the tie rods are on an angle such as with a "t"bar crank.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 5:14 pm

Jim wrote:
killian96ss wrote:
HenryJ wrote:An alignment check afterward would be a good idea...
There is no need for an alignment after replacing an idler arm or pitman arm ...
The idler holes in the frame are slotted...splines must not have been machined at exactly the same location...Toe is the factor I would think the center link would effect most...will effect alignment.

Two out of three agree...

HenryJ wrote:An alignment check afterward would be a good idea...

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 7:48 pm

Jim wrote:Toe is the factor I would think the center link would effect most. only if the tie rods are on an angle such as with a "t"bar crank.

You are so right about that, sorry.

Sometimes I type faster than I can think.

Still though, a .05" toe change is likely the highest amount you could get from moving the idler arm up and down while unbolted and that won't affect your alignment.

You guys win, I guess.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:23 am

I can definitely see your point here Steve. I do not think it would be unsafe to go without. Worst case scenario would be some irregular tire wear, crooked wheel, or slightly ill handling.

Chances are that things will be right on the money. I have changed more idler arms than I can remember. Usually other parts get changed too so it is hard to say how many really needed an alignment adjustment. Of those that were just an idler arm replacement, probably half required a slight adjustment to attain ideal.

Having alignment checked is one of those things that gets neglected. On an IFS rig it is more important. Any change in ride height changes the alignment. as springs wear and sag or components wear changes occur. Even a change in load affects it. This is why it is important to be sure you have the "usual" load on it when you have it aligned.

I like to take a vehicle in for a check after replacing any steering components. Do I do this every time? No. I am still driving around without an alignment check after installing the quick ratio steering box and new pitman arm. I am feeling very guilty about that though. I did have to adjust the tie rods to center the wheel afterward, and tape measure checked the toe.
I really should get it in to be checked

"Do as I say, not as I do."

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:23 am

f9k9 wrote:
mattfu wrote:......... and another greenhorn question why would you invert the front shocks?
Because he put them on "upside" down

Yeah, I wasn't paying attention, and figured all the rubber boot covers went on the down side, when on the fronts the covers should be on the up side.

Finally noticed even the wording was upside down when looking at the idler arm during the inspection...

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:10 pm

One thing I like to do, but not every alignment shop will let you do is sit in the vehicle while the alignment is being performed. This will ensure the best results possible since most of the time there is only one person in the vehicle.

It is also a good idea to make sure the tire pressures equal in all 4 tires. If you want to be a real perfectionist

you can also make sure your gas tank is 1/2 full to simulate a good balance between empty and full. I think I even had my wife sit in the CC when I did my final t-bar adjustments just to simulate the usual amount of weight that would be in it. If you regularly carry a lot of weight in the bed like tools, supplies, etc, then it might be good to leave that stuff in there when you get an alignment.

Did I ever mention that I'm kind of a perfectionist.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:51 pm

You can simulate the drivers weight too. A set of barbell weights in the drivers seat is what I use

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:49 pm

HenryJ wrote:You can simulate the drivers weight too. A set of barbell weights in the drivers seat is what I use

So, you mean to tell me that I'm not the only one who tries to compensate for the drivers weight?

I just figured I was

Steve