Towing with the ZR5

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 5:23 am

SO I ran across a SUPER deal on a 1985 Bayliner boat. It's 21ft long, and probably weighs in near 4,000lbs. $1,600 Link to the ad for the boat

Anyone think I'll have any problems with the ZR5 towing it this season. Assume the truck is bone stock for this year, and the below mods are coming soon. The longest trip I'll be taking this season is ~50 miles away so there isn't alot of traveling to be done with it until I get the below mods taken care of.

Mods that I can think of RIGHT offhand are listed below.

1. Tranny cooler (largest I can find)
2. Tranny Temp gauge
3. Airshocks to help with the tonque weight.

Is there anything else I need to be thinking about? I bought the truck to use as a semi-frequent tow vehicle, and it's rated well above the 4,000lbs that this boat weighs. I'm confident in the brakes, and chassis, but the tranny worry's me a bit.....I should also note, I'm experience with towing, so it's not like I'm jumping in to a huge trailer on a small truck experience...I'm confident in my abilities with a trailer, jsut want to get an idea on the forums thoughts...

Also, My good friend here at work says he used to tow his 5,300lb Supra skit boat with his 4.0L ranger, and the truck handled it fine. He said having a 5spd hurt him a bit getting out of the water, and taking off uphills, but otherwise the truck was fine.....Not sure if that info helps, or hurts, but he says I should be 100% fine.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:39 am

Only thing I can recommend is to never use D while towing. Dumping the stock shocks and the Energy sway bar kit in front.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:48 am

f9k9 wrote:Only thing I can recommend is to never use D while towing. Dumping the stock shocks and the Energy sway bar kit in front.

Never use D or never use OD?!?!??!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:06 am

2kwik4u wrote:
f9k9 wrote:Only thing I can recommend is to never use D while towing. Dumping the stock shocks and the Energy sway bar kit in front.
Never use D or never use OD?!?!??!

D is overdrive right?

I believe you want to tow in 3rd. You don't want the TC to lock up when towing.

Steve

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:15 am

killian96ss wrote:
2kwik4u wrote:
f9k9 wrote:Only thing I can recommend is to never use D while towing. Dumping the stock shocks and the Energy sway bar kit in front.
Never use D or never use OD?!?!??!
D is overdrive right? I believe you want to tow in 3rd. You don't want the TC to lock up when towing.

Steve

I would think just the opposite.....You would want the TC locked while towing to keep the heat down. I know the Tow/Haul/performance shift tables have the convertor locked VERY early, and requiring alot of TPS to unlock it once moving. They also hold each gear a bit longer.....Hrmm....Suppose I should re-evaluate that, and go from there eh?

Either way I'm thinking a monsterous cooler, and a gauge is going to be needed in short order.

And yes D is overdrive...I'm used to Sy/Ty world that has OD, D, 2, 1....OOPS.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:19 am

You might want to look into something like the Summit sway helper springs for the rear. I've also heard of people having problems with Airshocks while towing. The air from the shock that has more weight on it transfers to the shock with less weight, making sway/roll more pronounced. I fixed this problem in my Sonoma by installing two separate fill valves--one to each shock, instead of just one valve for both. You just have to make sure that you put the exact same amount of air in each one.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:21 am

Walt wrote:You might want to look into something like the Summit sway helper springs for the rear. I've also heard of people having problems with Airshocks while towing. The air from the shock that has more weight on it transfers to the shock with less weight, making sway/roll more pronounced. I fixed this problem in my Sonoma by installing two separate fill valves--one to each shock, instead of just one valve for both. You just have to make sure that you put the exact same amount of air in each one.

INteresting thought on that. I have a single fill setup for my Xtreme, and havne't noticed the sway, but then again its got a HUGE rear bar, and about 5" of drop.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:26 am

I think it's probably affected by the type of vehicle (how top-heavy, spring stiffness, etc....), It also depends on fill level of the shocks. This seems to occur mostly at moderate to high levels, but not so much at low or very high levels. I could tell a different in my Sonoma, not a huge one, but a difference nonetheless. When someone told me to try separating the valves, I thought they were crazy, but it worked.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:29 am

The owners manual says to tow in 3rd and not in D. You could tow in 4th gear if you installed a manual override switch for the TC lock up. I know HenryJ has a write up around here somewhere about installing a switch like this.

Towing with the TC locking and unlocking is a bad idea with the 4L60E.

Steve

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 8:41 am

Yea I know the 60E is notoriously weak....

If it makes it through this season OK, then I might look at putting an 80E in it in the future. Those are fairly inexpensive to build, and are easily 4-5 times as strong.

I'm hoping a big external cooler, and temp gauge will help it live a bit longer.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 11:55 am

Well After some reading, and reviewing details, and all that madness, as well as a post to a boating forum......I'm considering adding a Weight Distributing Hitch to the tow formula. It's a $250 item, and every single person I have talked to that has used them suggests them.

Anyone here have any thoughts on using a WDH?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:03 pm

2kwik4u wrote:Anyone here have any thoughts on using a WDH?

Definitely a good idea!

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:56 pm

Does the boat trailer have brakes?

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:46 am

Well It's now a moot point on the boat. Decided that the Xtreme turbo project was more than enough to drain the bank account at this point.

I will however be looking for a nice flatbed car trailer in the spring to tow the Xtreme to nationals in June of next year. I figure that whole setup is going to easily get into the 4200lb range. Definately a WDH, and tranny cooler/gauge, and some power mods before then!!!

ace · Post by **ace** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:47 am

2kwik4u wrote:Interesting thought on that. I have a single fill setup for my Xtreme, and havne't noticed the sway, but then again its got a HUGE rear bar, and about 5" of drop.

I have airshocks with a single setup and tow a 3000 pound camper and I don't notice sway either. I have an inexpensive friction sway bar and that eliminates any sway that starts. The airshocks helped a lot.

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:46 am

Been towing since 1969. With 2.8's and 4.3's more than 12. my 20ft travel trailer for 10 years along with a 19 ft Sea-Pro Cuddy for 12+. Trips average 25miles for the boat one way and 200-300 one way for the RV. Both net between 3900-4200# and haven't had problem 1 with either the 4L60E or the 4.3. Towed with a '95 ASTRO rated for 5000 until #2 son decided to rear end a Dodge Ram and caved in the firewall on the ASTRO. 92 extended cab S-10 with the 2.8 and 5 spd pulled the boat a couple of years when I first got the boat. And I pull both now with the CC. Nothing added except the trailer brake control. And a Tranny temp gauge into the pan. Temps range run from 180-210 with mostly 185-190.

NOTE: Both S-10's AND the Astro had 3.42's. I'm retired and not in a rush to get where I want when I go so I take it easy (no faster than 60 towing).

I pull in 3rd UNLESS it's extremely FLAT and I have a tail wind. If those two conditions are met then it goes into OD or 4th. If it starts hunting or looses speed with a constant throttle, then i GO BACK TO 3RD.

Change that fluid every 20,000. And get the upgraded servos and the pin.

Never had a heat related problem yet with the stock system. I DO change the Anti-freeze yearly, thermostat(195), cap, hoses, and belt semi annually. And I carry a spare belt, tensioner, and a clutch in my toolbox in the bed along with fluids, tools, etc.. Maybe I'm being overly #### about it but learning towing in the Southwest made me that way.

Larry