How to change rear differential fluid.
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- c schoelen
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How to change rear differential fluid.
does anyone know how to change the gear oil in the rear axle?
[size=75]2002 S-10 Zr5 with: 6" superlift, 15" black rockcrawler rims, Airaid Intake, and 33 X 12.50 BF Goodrich Mud terrian Tires. Skidz Cut-out Flares[/size]
- HenryJ
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Removal of the rear cover is required.
Many have taken that opportunity to upgrade the rear cover to one that includes a fill and drain plug. A truss cover is a good idea too , since the 7.5 and 7.625 rears are reported to be a little flexy.
If you're not "into" changing covers, just remove yours to drain the oil. Clean it up and use a bead of good RTV to seal it during assembly.
Many have taken that opportunity to upgrade the rear cover to one that includes a fill and drain plug. A truss cover is a good idea too , since the 7.5 and 7.625 rears are reported to be a little flexy.
If you're not "into" changing covers, just remove yours to drain the oil. Clean it up and use a bead of good RTV to seal it during assembly.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- c schoelen
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- HenryJ
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There is a threaded plug on the front side of the differential. Use a 3/8" drive extension to remove it. Then fill to the bottom of that hole. (after re-installation of the cover.)
The owners manual lists: Front and Rear Axle (Standard Differential) SAE 80W-90 Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 1052271 or equivalent) and Rear Axle (Locking, Differential) Axle Lubricant; use only GM Part No. 1052271 Do Not add friction modifierGM Data wrote:Front and Rear Axle Standard Differential Axle Lubricant (GM P/N 1052271) or SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant
Rear Axle (Locking, Differential) Axle Lubricant, use only GM Part No. 12345977 (in Canada use Part No. 10953482). Do Not add friction modifier
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Feb 03, 2006 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
maybe not but I still drive my truck up on ramps to change the oil! The more elbow room the betterjeff024 wrote:with your truck having the SL you shouldnt even need to jack it to get to everything
Steve
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
- michael_4x4
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How often?
How often should the fluid in the rear diff be changed....and what else is some more good maintance to do?
- HenryJ
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Nope. The G80 does not use a friction modifier.rick wrote:Don't forget that if its a Posi to put Posi fluid back in.
GM Data wrote: wrote: Front and Rear Axle Standard Differential Axle Lubricant (GM P/N 1052271) or SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant
Rear Axle (Locking, Differential) Axle Lubricant, use only GM Part No. 12345977 (in Canada use Part No. 10953482). Do Not add friction modifier
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
OR, instead of pulling the cover you could get a $10 suction gun and suck the fluid out the fill hole. Won't get ALL the fluid that way but if the fluid is in good shape (read: proper change sequence) then it should be fine.
Do the CC's use the 7.6" rear? I figured they would all have the 8.5".
Do the CC's use the 7.6" rear? I figured they would all have the 8.5".
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
- HenryJ
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It is really tough to get a suction gun to drain the rear differential do the the fill plugs location beside the pinion. That does work pretty good for a front differential though.Snoman002 wrote:OR, instead of pulling the cover you could get a $10 suction gun and suck the fluid out the fill hole. Won't get ALL the fluid that way but if the fluid is in good shape (read: proper change sequence) then it should be fine.
Do the CC's use the 7.6" rear? I figured they would all have the 8.5".
I like to inspect the oil when changing. I used to like checking the gear wear as well, but upgraded to a cover with fill and drain plugs, so I don't get to do that anymore. I will pull the cover if I see debris in the oil though.
The CC's all got the 7.6
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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- HenryJ
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Differential rear-end support cover
The first change for a truck with the G80 should have been at the first engine oil change (3000mi) Thereafter as conditions permit. Every 15-25k mi. is what I try to do. I do check the level/condition every oil change and will change it if contamination is present.
The first change for a truck with the G80 should have been at the first engine oil change (3000mi) Thereafter as conditions permit. Every 15-25k mi. is what I try to do. I do check the level/condition every oil change and will change it if contamination is present.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
True, but I have been able to get nearly all the fluid out of mine that way. Granted, pulling the cover and inspecting the gears will always be better. The main reason I did mine that way was because I busted one of the cover bolts and the jimmy rig I did to stop the leak makes changing the cover a PITA.HenryJ wrote:It is really tough to get a suction gun to drain the rear differential do the the fill plugs location beside the pinion. That does work pretty good for a front differential though.Snoman002 wrote:OR, instead of pulling the cover you could get a $10 suction gun and suck the fluid out the fill hole. Won't get ALL the fluid that way but if the fluid is in good shape (read: proper change sequence) then it should be fine.
Do the CC's use the 7.6" rear? I figured they would all have the 8.5".
I like to inspect the oil when changing. I used to like checking the gear wear as well, but upgraded to a cover with fill and drain plugs, so I don't get to do that anymore. I will pull the cover if I see debris in the oil though.
The CC's all got the 7.6
I'm supprised the CC's got the 7.6, I figured with the extra weight they would use the 8.5, that and I thought most of the newer 4.3 S_Series trucks got the 8.5 anyways.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]