Installation Help: Neutral Safety Switch

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:16 pm

To make a long story short, my back-up lights have stopped working. Grounds are good, fuses are perfect, whats left is the reverse light switch which is found in the Neutral Safety Switch. I haven't picked up the part yet, but is it just a matter of unplugging it from the tranny and plugging the new one back in? Probably not, so do I need any special tools or any other tips for those that may have replaced it? Thanks.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:37 pm

Looks like you may not need the tool in the pic.

GM Data wrote:# Apply the parking brake.
#1 Shift the transmission into neutral.
#2 Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
#3 Remove the nut securing the transmission control lever to the manual shaft.
#4 Remove the transmission control lever from the manual shaft.
#5 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the switch.
#6 Remove the bolts securing the park/neutral position switch to the transmission.
#7 Remove the park/neutral position switch from the manual shaft. If the park/neutral position switch did not slide off the manual shaft, file the outer edge of the manual shaft in order to remove any burrs.
#8 Install the switch to the transmission manual shaft by aligning the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
#1 Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the mounting bosses on the transmission.

Important

If a new switch is being installed, the switch will come with a positive assurance bracket. The positive assurance bracket aligns the new switch in it proper position for installation and the use of neutral position adjustment tool will not be necessary.
#2 Install the switch to the transmission with two bolts finger tight.
#3 Position the tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the switch where the manual shaft is inserted are lined up with the lower two tabs on the tool.
Notice

Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
#4 Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up with the slot on the top of the switch.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts securing the switch to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Hopefully someone has an easy way to do this. Concensus is that GM data writers are paid by the word

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:46 pm

Thanks for the reply!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:50 pm

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:40 pm

Something to watch out for!

Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove

Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021

Date: May, 2001

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
(Replace Switch and Connectors)

Models:
1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird
1995-2001 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models
1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32),
4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74) Automatic Transmission

This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 - Transmission).

Condition

Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases, customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift indication, or no back-up light operation.

Cause

High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but may cause an open circuit in rare cases.

Correction

In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions, the switch can simply be reinstalled.

Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be removed and will probably be damaged in the process.

The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.

Important : This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to ensure water-tight connections.

Steve

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 3:22 pm

Well I replaced the switch and my back up lights still don't work! Could it be possible that the connectors are my problem?

Is there a relay anywhere that I could check?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:55 pm

04revx wrote:Well I replaced the switch and my back up lights still don't work! Could it be possible that the connectors are my problem?

Is there a relay anywhere that I could check?

You did check the ones under the hood, driver's side?

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:59 pm

Yes...the B/U light fuse is fine. I wasn't sure if there was another one somewhere or a relay.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 5:08 pm

04revx wrote:Yes...the B/U light fuse is fine. I wasn't sure if there was another one somewhere or a relay.

This one was a real bear for me to locate in the GM Data if, Brule dosn't have any suggestions I will dive into it tomorrow at lunch. If you have luck like me is there a possibility that both died at once? Do you have a meter to check the bulbs?

BTW, how was the switch install for future reference?

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 6:25 pm

The switch wasn't too bad once I looked everything over real good. One of the harness plugs was a real PITA to get out like killian had posted. I'm thinking the problem may be in there. I will check the bulbs with a meter tomorrow.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:59 pm

10-4, good luck!