"Clunk" in chassis = Torsion bar X-member hitting

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duglasfur
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"Clunk" in chassis = Torsion bar X-member hitting

Post by duglasfur »

Hey, I have a problem. My torsion bar crossmember is hitting the frame at low speed maneuvering (ie parking lots) and sounds like a real loud popping/clunk under the front seats. At first I thought it was a CV joint, but kept getting louder. Mr.G supposedly fixed it (3 times now) by replacing the torsion bar crossmember mounts, bushings and shimming both of those mounts about 1cm more towards the center of the truck. All to no avail. Charged me $300! So I called GM "customer service" and Mr.G says "contact of no concern". That was not good enough for me and I was awaiting an "engineer" from Chevy to contact me, b/c my CrewCab is only 4K miles out of friggin' warranty, never wrecked and never offroad! Well yesterday, they closed my case "dissatisfied"! I did crank in the torsion bar adjusters to see if the added tension would help keep the member more stable in the middle of travel and it helped a little. Please let me know if anyone can help fix it!
[size=75]2001 Onyx Black Crew Cab[/size]
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HenryJ
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Post by HenryJ »

Make sure that the torsion bar sockets are well lubed. That helps to allow them to slide instead of pushing the crossmember side to side.

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Post by Retep »

HenryJ wrote:Make sure that the torsion bar sockets are well lubed. That helps to allow them to slide instead of pushing the crossmember side to side.
Torsion bar sockets??? What are you referring to? I have this problem at times, but only in the cold of winter.

Pete
[size=75][url=http://photobucket.com/albums/v179/retep910/S10/]2002 S10 Ext. Cab 4x4 Indigo Blue[/url]
Extang Black Max Tonneau, Rubber Bed Mat, Vent Visors, Bugflector II, SilverStar headlights, Dark Window Tint, Disabled DRL, Debadged, K&N Filter, Skid Plates, 1.25" Rear Wheel Spacers, Boise 3 aal kit, mild T-bar crank, Dueler A/T Revo[/size]
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Post by HenryJ »

Retep wrote:...Torsion bar sockets??? What are you referring to?...
The point that the torsion bar enters the a-arm on one end and the point where it enters the adjuster ("pork-chop") on the other end.

You can use Miracle-lube, sprayable white grease, or Fluid film. Same stuff works well for door hinges.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Retep
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Post by Retep »

HenryJ wrote:
Retep wrote:...Torsion bar sockets??? What are you referring to?...
The point that the torsion bar enters the a-arm on one end and the point where it enters the adjuster ("pork-chop") on the other end.

You can use Miracle-lube, sprayable white grease, or Fluid film. Same stuff works well for door hinges.
Hmm... I always thought those were suppose to be a tight fit. almost a press fit. I will have to look next time I am under the truck.

Pete
[size=75][url=http://photobucket.com/albums/v179/retep910/S10/]2002 S10 Ext. Cab 4x4 Indigo Blue[/url]
Extang Black Max Tonneau, Rubber Bed Mat, Vent Visors, Bugflector II, SilverStar headlights, Dark Window Tint, Disabled DRL, Debadged, K&N Filter, Skid Plates, 1.25" Rear Wheel Spacers, Boise 3 aal kit, mild T-bar crank, Dueler A/T Revo[/size]
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Post by HenryJ »

Retep wrote:Hmm... I always thought those were suppose to be a tight fit. almost a press fit. ...

Chevrolet is having a hard time getting it right. On the fullsize they are almost so loose they could rotate with a little wear. On ours they are so tight that they tend to seize :roll:

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK