Was under the truck checking something when I noticed grease all over the front passenger corner -- noticed that my inner CV boot has pulled free of the larger metal band, and all the grease has spread itself along my undercarriage.
Talk about a lube job.
Anyway -- i take it to a local CV joint specialty shop -- same guys that have www.gorilla-axle.com for ATV's -- and have them replace the boot.
My inner driver's side boot appears intact but there is some grease slung out of it as well.
My truck only has 36,000 miles on it , and has never been off-roaded. Is this something others have seen? I raised my torsions a bit but not maxed out or anything.
I'm just glad I caught it in a few days before I destroyed a full on CV joint.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Was under the truck checking something when I noticed grease all over the front passenger corner -- noticed that my inner CV boot has pulled free of the larger metal band, and all the grease has spread itself along my undercarriage.
Talk about a lube job.
Anyway -- i take it to a local CV joint specialty shop -- same guys that have www.gorilla-axle.com for ATV's -- and have them replace the boot.
My inner driver's side boot appears intact but there is some grease slung out of it as well.
My truck only has 36,000 miles on it , and has never been off-roaded. Is this something others have seen? I raised my torsions a bit but not maxed out or anything.
I'm just glad I caught it in a few days before I destroyed a full on CV joint.
Sorry to hear that but that's the way things go with CVs. Let us know what you do.
Good Luck,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Well I had the boot replaced, will have to keep an eye on the other one -- can't afford to do it just yet.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Yea, that happened to my driver side at 46k miles or some'm like dat. Now my passenger side is just now starting. The dag gone boots are not soft enough, so it doesn't flex enough, so it just eats away at the part that is clamped. I re-clamped it once and it held for a few more thousand. The best and easiest fix is to get a whole new shaft from Auto Zone for about $80 including core return. The boots on those are strong and soft and will last way longer it looks like. Also they have a life time warrenty. But if you still want to replace the boot, I have an inner boot kit brand new I will sell you for half cost! I bought one and decided against it.
I had a similar problem a couple months ago. My driver's side well suddenly filled up with grease. I could find no nicks or splits, and it appeared to be installed right. I took it in to the dealer and they said it had a "factory flaw". I asked with the "flaw" was as I could see none. They pretty much just said something along the lines of, "just something that made it leak grease."
Translated, to me that means, "we have no clue why, so we just replaced it." Warrantied. But I did reset my t-bars down to stock before I took it in.
There is a little grease in the passenger side now. Just a little. I think I'm going to drop the t-bars back down to around stock and remove my rear add-a-leaf. I'm not going to do anything more to this truck except drive it for another year max, and trade it in.
When I was putting on my TS lift, I busted my stock boot. So I put on another one I got form the dealer, and I went through 3 clamps before I gave up, left it like it was. Since I had my truck towed to the shop to get my work checked over, I figured I would just have him fix the boot too. Then that fell off, and he put on 4 new super soft boots that flexed very well. But then of corse about 2 weeks later or so, I blew my front end and all that stuff was cut out. I had also just gotten a new upper control arm and 100$ worth of cutting and welding done too it, just my luck
quickbiker wrote:Yea, that happened to my driver side at 46k miles or some'm like dat. Now my passenger side is just now starting. The dag gone boots are not soft enough, so it doesn't flex enough, so it just eats away at the part that is clamped. I re-clamped it once and it held for a few more thousand. The best and easiest fix is to get a whole new shaft from Auto Zone for about $80 including core return. The boots on those are strong and soft and will last way longer it looks like. Also they have a life time warrenty. But if you still want to replace the boot, I have an inner boot kit brand new I will sell you for half cost! I bought one and decided against it.
Maybe this is the fix for the 2-3" suspension lift everyone loves to hate so much. Maybe the problem with those are the stock CV's which from what I'm hearing, aren't very good anyway? Just a thought.
the only reason I would disagree is that the Superlift 3 inch kit is supposed to come with new softer and more flexible CV boots.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
adrenalnjunky wrote:the only reason I would disagree is that the Superlift 3 inch kit is supposed to come with new softer and more flexible CV boots.
Actually, I was thinking more about the CV joints themselves. Maybe the aftermarket ones can handle the angles better. At least if you have the lifetime warranty ones, it won't cost so much to replace them?
Well...I noticed the same grease issue on mine a couple weeks ago...and even worse after I went wheeling twice in the last two weeks. Time to head to the dealership for my first warranty issues.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
Yea, if the dealer is anything like the one here, they are looking for any excuse not to cover it. But it can be argued I guess. I do have another dealer that is allot further away that will work with people with mods, but not here.
I did fix mine temporarily until I tore the boot up completely in a mudhole and a branch went through it. Forgot to get a pic of that one! But here is a boot clamp fix I got at NAPA.
Best thing is to replace the whole thing with a NAPA shaft though, got life time warranty, at least if you don't have the dealer warranty anymore.
I Just recently sold my baby which was a 95 accord (swapped h22 jdm motor, not that some of you know that that issss) but anyway, it was tubocharged and a fully built bottom end (other than the crank and head. dyno'd it at 379whp. I can't remember what i had at the flywheel anyway, that car was everything to me. I used to snap axles on the daily with that till i finally found a site that made high strength cv axles and boots.
"Oh!, you dont like your job? There's a support group for that. It's called "EVERYONE"
Oops, sorry, I meant from Auto zone. The clamp was from NAPA, you're right, NAPA won't normally give a lifetime on the CV shaft, I checked. Autozone does though.
if autozone wants to give a lifetime warranty, then thats where i will buy mine then . But right now i havnt even broke into the 2k mark on my truck and i've had it 7-8 months now
"Oh!, you dont like your job? There's a support group for that. It's called "EVERYONE"
Nate wrote:they will cover it even with the body lift? I know that shouldnt affect it, but you know how dealerships work....
Entire warranties cannot be voided by one mod. If they give me flak about it, they have to prove that the body lift somehow caused the CV boot to leak. If they can make 2+2=5 that way, then I'll pay for the work. But I don't see how anyone in their right mind could say that a CV boot leak is caused by a body lift.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Well...dropped the truck off this morning at the dealership. I gave them a whole laundry list of things to do...check CV boots, check transmission for slow upshifts and poor downshifts, replace driver's door power window switches because the illumination went out (actually this has been there since I drove it off the lot...just didn't take it in for work until now), and fix a wind noise in the pass. side rear door. I shouldn't get any grief from this place over the BL because I've had lots of service done on other cars there that had several different mods on them and they never said a thing. They also have a performance department that installs blowers, lifts, etc. on trucks right from the factory and warranties them in full.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
Well...like I said...all four CV boots were replaced...they said they were cracked. They also replaced the right rear idler arm...not sure what that is but I know it was causing the front wheels to be a little wobbly. The switches were also replaced, so I took that to mean that they are supposed to light up. Last thing was the transmission shifting problems, and the tranny guy's looking at that today. Should have it back by tonight.
I like the Maxima I got as a loaner though...I might not give it back.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
All done. Everything above and the PCM was reprogrammed with the latest updates for fuel gauge, transmission shifting issues, and they even adjusted it for tire size. And all it cost me was $20 for the oil change.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
I noticed the large end of inner CV boot came off at the band. The boot seems undamaged. Can I just fix the boot? Would an industrial size zip tie work? Do I just glob some grease in? I can't afford a new shaft now. What is the best fix.
Get a large hose clamp (standard type with little worm gear). Not so long as to have much extra. There should be room. I have been running them on my old S-10 for years.
Don't worry about adding grease unless you think that you have lost a whole bunch.
Get it sealed up fast. Dirt in there can do damage.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
quickbiker wrote:Maybe stock there maybe room, but there is no room for a standard hose clamp with the TM lift.
What is changed that creates less clearance on the CV joints band area?
It is close, but a standard clamp will work.
The next option is to reinstall a stock band (crimped clamp). Don't buy the cheap tool from KD that looks like a pair of "tile nippers". They do not apply enough pressure to properly crimp the band.
Spend your money on a good tool. Here is one made by OTC- CV Joint Banding Tool and Cutter The bands (clamps) are available at your local autoparts store. I buy them at NAPA here.
Last option is to have someone do it for you. You are probably looking at a minimum charge at shop rate $50-$75
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
I have had my drivers side boot leak twice now. The dealer didn't say anything about the 2" BL. Instead of replacing the boots they keep replacing the whole CV shaft instead (twice now). This doesn't seem very cost effective, but hey I'm not going to complain.
I know someone who is going to know why I bumped this thread
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
Took the truck in for service, tech noticed the right inner cv boot was leaking. They ordered a replacement (Part No. 26059675 W-BOOT KIT). They said it would take a while to perform the service apparently they have to pull the front end apart.
My question is - are they planning on just changing the boot, or do they replace the front drive shaft & boot together? I'm a litte concerned that it has been this way for a while and may have done damage to the shaft itself.
2003 S10 Crew 4x4
Mods: 1.5" Front Spacers - GM Valley Hitch - WeatherTech WeatherFlectors - Bilstein Shocks - Boise Spring works 2" rear spring kit - Truxedo Toneau Cover - PopLock tailgate lock - Hypertech Tuning - SKIDS Flares - 2" Body Lift - ZR2 Axle upgrade
ludwis wrote:...are they planning on just changing the boot, or do they replace the front drive shaft & boot together? ...
The splindle must come loose , the halfshaft removed and disassembled to get the boot off. They will clean and inspect it, add new grease, and clamp the new boot.
It is quite a chore, and they could find other problems while in there. Balljoints? axle shaft? who knows?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
ludwis wrote:My question is - are they planning on just changing the boot, or do they replace the front drive shaft & boot together? I'm a little concerned that it has been this way for a while and may have done damage to the shaft itself.
This has happened twice to me and the dealer replaced the whole CV shaft each time under warranty. It is actually easier for them to just swap the whole shaft than to clean, repack with grease, and install a new boot. Unfortunately not all dealers will do this. Maybe you could try telling them you want the whole thing replaced because you drove with it leaking for a while.
Hey, just a note on this. Auto zone doesn't sell the CV's for our trucks anymore. I had to get the last one from Napa. But only has a year warranty on it. Guess they are getting tired of people keeping their trucks forever.
quickbiker wrote:Hey, just a note on this. Auto zone doesn't sell the CV's for our trucks anymore. I had to get the last one from Napa. But only has a year warranty on it. Guess they are getting tired of people keeping their trucks forever.
Does the Napa CV shaft have the nice soft boots like the ones from Autozone?
. But right now i havnt even broke into the 2k mark on my truck and i've had it 7-8 months now 
