LT1 / LS1 Electric Cooling Fans

[HenryJ]

Came across a set of '98 Camaro LS1 fans at the salvage yard. Twin 11.5" dia. fans in a shroud.

It is a little taller than the radiator core and almost exactly the same width. Depth seemed to be about right, at 4" in the center and just under 5.5" at the deepest point of the fan motors. Hopefully it will fit nicely.

I also grabbed another upper shroud to morph for an upper mount-


I have been thinking about going electric for some time now. The stock fan cools adequately, but doesn't kick in quite soon enough for me. The clutch only locks at about 210-215 degrees on my stock gauge.

I went to a cooler 180* stat, and really need a cooler clutch for the fan to match it.


Well the answer is to go electric. That way I can control the temperature at which the fans kick on , and even have a manual over-ride for when I'm four wheeling, or running the AC in traffic and want a "jump start" on the cooling.

There are also the benefits of no longer having the big fan being driven by the engine. Hopefully this will free up a little more low end power, and maybe even help mileage too.

The plan is to install a thermostatic switch in the place of that pipe plug next to the thermostat. I will have it activate the fan relays , and install a manual override switch inside the cab.

Oh, and one more thing...if I ever go V-8 , I'll need this anyway

[Walt]

Same here. I hate it when I take off and the fan is engaged. It feels like it slows the engine down ALOT. But that's just me. Brule, is that a direct bolt on replacement?

[a2b]

i dont think thats going to be bolt on...but ya i agree, the fan always came on too late

[HenryJ]

...is that a direct bolt on replacement?

No, and I'm not sure yet how much work it will be to adapt it to fit.

I'm still in the gathering phase of this project.

My idea to add a coolant fan switch in the crossover passage , next to the thermostat, got shot out of the water. I did lots or research to find that it is indeed 3/8 - 18 NPT , but the availability of switches is not as good as I would have hoped. The temperature range selection was poor also. I basically had two choices for the threads I am stuck with, and I wasn't real crazy about the temperature ranges. Next problem was price. Just over $20 + $10 for a connector. Not good.

So I follow the crowd...This is an inexpensive adjustable electric fan control- Flex-a-lite Electric Fan Control


With handling charges it is about the same $30 , but has adjustability from 180-240 degrees F.

I have had one of these go bad in the past on a customers car, but at least it will give me time to select the exact range that I want and find a suitable in manifold replacement.

I made another run to the salvage yard and picked up some weatherproof GM relays, and a nice rocker switch for the manual override.

So far the total cost is up to $93.83

It is going to take me a couple weeks, since I am headed north this weekend, and really don't want to tear things apart just before the trip.

[HenryJ]

The plan is to start simple with the wiring-



There is plenty of room to add complications...er, uhmm...I mean additional features later.

The twin fans leave opportunities for progressive activation with another temperature control switch...
AC could activate one fan and temp start the other...
Perhaps a kill switch for water crossings...
The list of features goes on...

[HenryJ]

Had a little extra time today so I installed the fans- LT1 electric fans conversion

I haven't done much more than run it to operating temperature and shut it off, so not real results as to performance, or obviously mileage.

It has been a long day, more later...

[HenryJ]

Some of the things I have noticed to date-

These are very quiet. Almost impossible to tell for sure if they are running.

It is not all that noticeable a difference over the clutch fan during normal operation. But you don't have that little bit in the morning when it "rushes" before the oil is evenly distributed, and when it gets hot and locks obviously.

They do steadily maintain a slightly lower temperature, or so it appears at this time. I think they just maintain a temp closer to the thermostats operating range.

The adjustable thermostat is just like the one I remember. Pretty erratic, doesn't seem to maintain the same temperature start from day to day. It is not a huge difference, maybe 5-10 degrees or so variance. More of an irritation than problem.

When the AC is running and the fans start at the same time I do notice a brief dimming of the headlamps. I consulted my local "alternator guru" , He seems to feel that the stock alternator should handle the load just fine.

Next thing I need to do is some research to see if there is an AC head pressure cut-off or high side pressure cut-off. I would rather have the fans kick in at a predetermined high side safety pressure , rather than each time the compressor starts. This would reduce the number of times the fans cycle on and off.
If we do not have one, prehaps one can be added.

Performance. No really noticeable gains, although I have not had a "code" response to the station yet.
So far "butt dyno" says ...no signifigant gains.

Still way too soon to have any mileage figures.

Overall, I really like it! I can kick the fans on with a flip of a switch and warm-ups are a little faster.

I may switch the relay power to the ignition circuit. I have had the fans kick on a couple times when it was sitting and heat built up. I don't think it is enough to drain the battery, but it it happens regularly, I'll make some changes.

[HenryJ]

Still a little annoyed with the differences in when the fan activates , and always looking for improvements.

I came across this- Variable Speed Control.

It is a little pricey at $80 + shipping, but I like some of the features it offers.

One of the improvements of the Variable Speed Control is its soft-start feature that prevents the fans from drawing a large surge when they spin up. It's much less stress on the electrical system, especially with trucks using two large fans with a combined total of 5500 cubic feet per minute of flow!

- Also reducing stress on the electrical system, the VSC will not power up the fans for a 5 second delay after ignition.

- When the VSC starts the fans it powers them at 60% speed reducing noise and power draw. If the coolant temperature continues to rise, the VSC will increase fan speed gradually to 100% over the next 10 degrees beyond your calibration point.

- The air conditioner clutch will also activate the fans at 60% power unless coolant temperature is higher than the calibration point and the fans are already running at a higher speed.

- The VSC will continue to run the fans for up to 30 seconds after shutdown if the coolant temperature in the core is sufficient. (This feature will prevent post-shutdown boil-over in high-temperature applications.)

- The manual override ON input allows the fans to be turned on at 100% speed at any time, regardless of temperature or AC status, as long as the ignition is on. The engine does not have to be running. (This will be especially handy at the drag strip!)

- The manual override OFF input will prevent all other inputs from starting the fans. (The ability to disable the fans is a nice safety consideration if work must be done in the engine compartment while the engine is running. Electric fans can surprise you coming on without warning.)

I am going to give it a try.

[snowsurfer]

Does anyone know the CFM of the stock fans? Just wondering, wanted to go electric but wanted to get one that pulls more than the original. I live in Hawaii where it's warm most of the time and I run AC almost all the time just wondering what CFM I should be looking for??

[HenryJ]

Does anyone know the CFM of the stock fans? ...wanted to go electric but wanted to get one that pulls more than the original....wondering what CFM I should be looking for??

I don't know exactly what the stock clutch fans pulls. It varies from idle to cruise speed, of course.

Seems like I have heard it pulls a little less than 3000 cfm at idle.

I doubt you'll ever find an electric fan setup that will fit and pull more than the stock clutch fan running at cruise speed.
However, some of the aftermarket and conversion fans will pull more cfm at low speeds.

I would say look for a pair 12" of fans and with a combined rating above 3000 cfm, and in a shroud.

I hear rumors that the LT1 factory fans are rated for 3500 cfm, I don't know that for sure.

Rumor has it that the flex-a-lite 210 will keep a V-8 cool in tight quarters.

[snowsurfer]

I also have a 83 S10 w/305 V8, Vette radiator, and really have no problems with heat. The key was the distance fan rad. and a good shroud. At first I put an e fan that was switchable but ended up removing it cause I never needed it. I've done about 6 V8 swaos and I've learned that the fan distance and shrouding is really important.
In my new 03 crew I installed a Powerdyne SC, 190 stat and was wondering how much I would gain from an e fan thus my question of what I would need to keep it cool...Is it really worth going to an e fan performance wise??

[HenryJ]

...Is it really worth going to an e fan performance wise??

I would say no.
The stock clutch fan really does a pretty good job, and I have not felt much of a difference in performance.

[snowsurfer]

thanks for your imput..

what about Flex lite replacement fans that are lighter?

[HenryJ]

...what about Flex lite replacement fans that are lighter?

They make more noise for sure, and if you're having trouble staying cool , may move more air.

Performance wise, I would bet little gain , if not a loss.

Right back to the stock clutch fan doing a pretty good job.

If I could have matched the temperature range to my 180* stat. , I'd still be running the stocker too. (maybe )

[snowsurfer]

I really don't have an cooling problems I was just looking at a performance issue. Maybe a lighter fan, less work on the motor etc..
It is warm in Hawaii but I rarely go over 205 with ac running and traffic.

[HenryJ]

... just looking at a performance issue ...less work on the motor etc... rarely go over 205 with ac running and traffic.

If you're looking for just that little bit extra, and do not want to sacrifice cooling in traffic, then electric fans may be what you're after.

Don't expect big gains, and cost wise $100 per horsepower is a little on the steep side, although not completely "out of your mind" expensive.

I am not disappointed , and hopefully there will be some mileage improvements to go along with being able to choose my temperature for cool down, and the faster warm-ups.

[HenryJ]

In an effort to reduce the on-off cycling of the fans during AC operation, I would like to use the high pressure sensor as the activation for the fans rather than them kicking on each time the AC clutch is activated.
I haven't had time to check this out , yet.

I received this response on ZR2.com:

You want to tap into the light blue wire on the two wire high pressure switch connector on the back of the compressor (round connector)That comes directly from the control panel (AC request)

I checked the amperage draw. It takes 57 amps to start both fans and that lasts only a split second. Then 13.6 amps to run them.

I am going to install the variable speed controller this weekend and see what the difference is.

[HenryJ]

I updated the information on the webpage- LT1 Electric fans conversion to include the changes made.

I think it will be an improvement.

So far the new controller seems to be a little more consistent, and believe it or not, even quieter since it starts at 60% and increases to 100% as the temp rises.
The thirty second delayed shut off is really nice. It is a comfort to get out and hear it run for those few seconds after shutting off the engine. At least this way I know they are working.
The simplification of wiring, and number of options also make it a good choice. It is a little pricey, but for what it does I think it is worth it.

Connecting to the high pressure switch is the way to go for the AC activation. It really saves that big draw when the AC cycles and fans kick on at the same time , over and over.



I checked the amperage, with the fans running at 60% during normal AC operation, they draw 10.6 amps.

[HenryJ]

...Is it really worth going to an e fan performance wise??

I would say no.
The stock clutch fan really does a pretty good job, and I have not felt much of a difference in performance.

I think that I am going to have to step back a little on that comment.

I have noticed that it seems to be squalling the tires a little more than usual lately. acceleration in the low end may be a little better.

A nice improvement for the low end

I'll check mileage soon.

[HenryJ]

For those who do not feel comfortable with the modifications required , or unable to find a used fan set-
Flex-a-lite website

Flex-a-lite #210 Dual 12" fans with control-$235.88

Low profile, big output.

Flex-a-lite low-profile electric fans have the lowest profile available, yet flow up to 2,500 cfm. They have lightweight nylon shrouds with full-contact rubber seals, and some even offer several choices of shroud color. There's also an optional, adjustable thermostat and air conditioning relay, as well as a manual override switch to shut down the fan for mud racing or water crossings. A wiring diagram and installation instructions in English, Spanish, and French are included.

There are a couple people using this fan set for the increased clearances, and all in one "kit" appeal. I guess it works, since one of those guys is running an LS1.

[JimmyDiamond]

I had the Flex-210 on my 02 V6 S-10 and they worked well. Never had any overheat issues.

Steve

[snowsurfer]

How much clearance do you need from rad to eng? It looks like I got around close to 5" is a trimline fan really needed if the fans are around 4"? It just seems that the regular fans have more cfm pull vs. the trimlines.. I got an old Zirgo 16" fan that's a shade over 4" at the deepest point and was thinking about using that, it's rated at 3025 cfm, I believe the trimelines single are around 2-2500cfm...

[HenryJ]

How much clearance do you need from rad to eng?

I'm pretty surre that it was 4.5" to the waterpump shaft , with the thicker radiator core.

...I got an old Zirgo 16" fan that's a shade over 4" at the deepest point and was thinking about using that, it's rated at 3025 cfm, I believe the trimelines single are around 2-2500cfm...

It would probably fit fine, and as long as the shroud would draw across the whole core you should be fine.
I have heard that those who are using a single fan, had problems due to the amount of core that was not being drawn through.

[HenryJ]

...I'll check mileage soon.

No change in mileage.
The clutch fan really must do a pretty good job there.

I would still do this for the control over the temperature, and increased cooling at idle and low speeds.

It has helped the acceleration and warm-up times are reduced.

I'd do this one again

[F9K9]

It has been almost a year since you finished this mod.

Any problems or updates?

Anything you would want to change if you were to do it over?

I'm looking hard at this mod since I dropped the hood idea and do not want to do the flares until I am in need of new tires

[HenryJ]

Plan on upgrading the alternator.

Other than that , "I'd do this one again"

[F9K9]

Plan on upgrading the alternator...................

That's another mod that seems to have been overshadowed with the mystery lift

Did you ever settle on an upgrade?

There are some good buys on ebay that do not have the bearings you prefer.

[HenryJ]

I have had a few questions about the fans install, so I thought I'd fill in some of the blanks.

The manual ON and Manual OFF terminals on the controller require 12V to activate the function. For a three position switch, on-off-on : On = manual on , Off = auto , On = manual off.
Wire a three position switch to provide power to both sides and nothing in the center position.

Be sure to mark them as we do become forgetful , and want whom ever might drive it to know so they don't accidentally shut them off and overheat it.

I only wired one switch for manual ON, since I don't do water crossings deep enough to be a concern.


The manual ON is nice for crawling the desert.

Now for wires.

I ran mine to the battery feed cable on the power center under the hood.

To get the wiring to the switch I went through the rubber boot on the bundle that comes through the drivers side firewall , between the fender and brake booster.



To do this remove the lower dash panel that includes the OBDII port, above the drivers footwell. You will need a long piece of rod. I use gas welding rod, or fluxless brazing rod. A straightened metal coat hanger may work well too.
Poke it through the rubber boot from the engine compartment piercing through to the inner seal and into the footwell. If the rod is thin like the welding rod I bend the end back in itself and insert the stripped end of a wire through the tightened loop. The tape it tightly and pull it back through to the engine compartment. The next time will be easy as the rod will follow the wire back through.

[F9K9]

I have a couple of questions about the install but, I am in no hurry for the answers. I picked up a set of LT 1 efans and will install them after the flares when the sun is shining and the birds are chirping.

How did you attach the bottom or the e fans to the radiator? If you like the switch you purchased more than the flex-a-lite switch, why is it not mentioned in the write up?

[HenryJ]

How did you attach the bottom or the e fans to the radiator?

The lower lip had to be trimmed 1/4" to move the fans closer to the core and the tabs on the sides were trimmed for width also.
Slots were cut on the inside of the lower lip for inserting 1/8"x 1"x 2 1/4" aluminum tabs, that are attached with 3/16 aluminum poprivets.
These re-use the stock lower shroud mounting.

If you like the switch you purchased more than the flex-a-lite switch, why is it not mentioned in the write up?

If you are referring to the mechanical thermostatic control that I first installed. They are junk. I mention it in this thread way up at the top. I didn't find the Variable speed controller until later.

Some will defend the $20 mechanical controllers. I am still running one in the Vega, but it is not a daily driver. I have had at least two of these fail. The variable speed controller is the only one mentioned in my write-up because it is the only choice, IMO.

[F9K9]

I missed the lower mounting write up and I have read this entire thread about 10 times, most recently this morning. I guess when I get into installation it will make more sense than it does now.

Thanks, Brule

[HenryJ]

So have you seen a picture of these fans? Do they have the upper and lower blow through flaps?

If they do that may mean you will need to improvise one side of the lower mount? Maybe?
Another one that will keep us wanting more answers

Are you going to pick up another upper shroud, or cut yours?

[Snoman002]

Nice mod HJ.

For those of you that can't find the LT1 fans or the price is a little to high the Ford Torous (sp) e-fan is a very good alternative. Many of the V8 swap guys are running them with great results.

I believe that the rough going price for the fan unit is ~$30. You will still need to buy the controller and a couple of relays. It also takes a strange wiring pattern to get the fan to work properly as it is a two speed fan and you can't have both the high side and the low side of the motor energized at the same time, but there are wiring diagrams out there and it is pretty simple.

I havn't seen the CFM for when the fan is on high but I believe that even on low it pulls more air than the previously mentioned Flex-a-lite unit, possibly even exceeding the rating of the LT1 fan's.

[killian96ss]

The LT1 fans do work pretty well. They keep my 4200 lb. SS with a 400 hp LT1 cool no matter how hard I drive it.

Steve

[F9K9]

So have you seen a picture of these fans? Do they have the upper and lower blow through flaps?

If they do that may mean you will need to improvise one side of the lower mount? Maybe?
Another one that will keep us wanting more answers

Are you going to pick up another upper shroud, or cut yours?

No picture of them, they came out of an '00 or '01. I'll pick up a shroud to cut later. When it arrives I'll take and post pics.

[killian96ss]

No picture of them, they came out of an '00 or '01. I'll pick up a shroud to cut later. When it arrives I'll take and post pics.

If it was a 2000 or 2001 it is an LS1 fan and not an LT1.

Steve

[F9K9]

Like it says, i have a set of LS1 fans for sale, with the connectors, not sure what year, but i've had them for 2, so they were probably off an 01/02, just wire to the factory plug in connectors and your off.

You're correct

Did I screw up "bad"

[HenryJ]

You're fine I was informed that mine are probably LS1 fans.

Something about '98 Camaro being a LS1 rather than a LT1?
I'm pretty sure that I do not know nearly enough about the "LT this" and "LS that" to have all the right information. It is a Camaro thing, I think?

You'll be fine

Upon further investigation: Engine chart , '93-'97 Camaro had the LT1 and '98-'02 Camaro had the LS1.

We are using LS1 fans

I would think that either would be fine. The fourth gen Camaros run from 1993-2002

[F9K9]

I was about to put it up for sale before it even arrived

Thanks once again, Brule

[killian96ss]

Sorry to cause any confusion. It was almost a reflex for me to post the info when I saw 98, 00, 01 LT1. The LT1 engines also had dual fans, but lack the nice shroud you guys got with the LS1 fans. I should have noticed a long time ago that the pictured fan was not from an LT1.

Steve

[GeorgesBlazah]

here are my elctric fans..i used henrys wirte up as a guideline. they have been in for a couple months now with no problems.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/G ... 5b4fd9.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/G ... bf5007.jpg

[F9K9]

They look good

What did they come out of and what year?

[quickbiker]

I've never heard anything good from S10'rs running electric fans. I just wonder if it's all worth it?

[HenryJ]

I've never heard anything good from S10'rs running electric fans. I just wonder if it's all worth it?

Absolutely! Match the cooler stat. Crawl the desert with improved cooling. Kick them on manually for improved AC operation while the going is slow. Improved acelleration. Quicker warm-up times. Quieter operation. I could go on and on.

I think the "bad rap" comes from trying to run cheap components and single aftermarket fans. Go with an adequite OEM fan and good quality controls.

[F9K9]

I've never heard anything good from S10'rs running electric fans. I just wonder if it's all worth it?

Whew, I am on HJ's Sh_t list and now this

"Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?"

[quickbiker]

It's just that the S10'rs I've seen running them seem to have over heating problems at times. And I've also seen them have trouble with them working at times. I'm probably a minority here, but I actually think the stock clutch fan works rather well. I only had some heating up problems once at about 70k miles, but that was cause the clutch was worn out. Bought a new one from rockauto.com and all is well again.

[HenryJ]

No, you're right the clutch fan does a pretty good job for a stock truck.
I mainly changed to match the stat and lower my operating temps.

The failure rate may be those cheap components again. I don't see the majority of the electric fan cooled vehicles having any issues. How many Camaros are there out there with no problems?

[quickbiker]

haha, yea, the Camaro one works ok I guess. Mine did go one day out on the expressway during rush hour on a 90 degree day. haha. I waited a couple hours on the shoulder till the traffic was moving enough to keep me cool. I replace the motor and was good to go. Then one day during emissions testing it overheated. Gave the relay a few wacks and it passed. The guy said he'd never seen a vehicle that overheated, threw rad fluid everywhere, then pass like a champ a few min later. I just knew what to hit. Replaced the relay and I was good to go.

It is also anoying watching the temp vary about 30 degrees up and down like a yo-yo at red lights.

[F9K9]

Still a little annoyed with the differences in when the fan activates , and always looking for improvements.

I came across this- Variable Speed Control.

It is a little pricey at $80 + shipping, but I like some of the features it offers. to give it a try.

Brule,
I have done a couple searches on this but, cannot locate it on a site where I can purchase one. Do you recall where you ordered it from?

Thanks,

Reed

[HenryJ]

... Do you recall where you ordered it from?

I ordered from Summit racing.

This looks like the one that I used
They do show another one , and there has been some discussion that it may be heavier duty? It was not available when I bought mine. I do think the one I have has been working just fine. If it is worth the extra $14 , I guess the other would work too.

[F9K9]

Thanks, I went ahead and ordered the controller you utilized before the scrutiny that my wife desires, kicks in.

Looks like the e fans are a tad down on the "mod" list My fans look like yours in your write-up

Currently, mod wise, it looks like the "sway control" AALs, the SKIDZ flares, a roof and then the LS1 e-fans

[HenryJ]

I spent a little time kicking around the shop this morning.



The shroud is off of a '98 Bravada. There are some tiny differences in the webbing, but other than that it is as good or better than mine. I picked this one up for $10



The shroud was cut straight across behind the radiator mounts and behind the bulge for the fan.

The price of aluminum angle has gone up a couple dollars since I did mine. 36" piece of 1/8" x 1 1/2" angle cost $15 This is enough material for the upper piece and to cut out three tabs for the lower mount.

I use five 3/16" pop rivets across the top and to hold the fans. Then two rivets in each tab on the bottom for a total of 16 rivets. Be sure to use aluminum back up washers too. I added press in caps for the ones that will be visible across the top. That is not necessary , but a nice touch.

[F9K9]

Please tell me that the floor in the photos isn't your garage

Super nice mod!

[F9K9]

To do this remove the lower dash panel that includes the OBDII port, above the drivers footwell. You will need a long piece of rod. I use gas welding rod, or fluxless brazing rod. A straightened metal coat hanger may work well too.
Poke it through the rubber boot from the engine compartment piercing through to the inner seal and into the footwell. If the rod is thin like the welding rod I bend the end back in itself and insert the stripped end of a wire through the tightened loop. The tape it tightly and pull it back through to the engine compartment. The next time will be easy as the rod will follow the wire back through.

I did this part of the mod today. I tried to be patient and calm but, had little luck going through from the the engine side of the firewall. After about 45 minutes of that frustration, I tried it from the passenger side of the firewall and was through in about 30 seconds. I am sure that others may get through from the engine side in the same time but, if one side isn't working for you, try the other.

I asked a coworker if I could borrow a couple "welding rods" (it's all smoke and mirrors to me) and he brought two to work. One was bigger than the other. The smaller diameter one kept bending so, I used the larger one to make the pilot hole in the rubber "membrane". I then used the smaller one to drag 3 wires from the engine bay into my cab.

Definitely a good spot to run wires through the firewall as opposed to the am/fm antenna grommet.

[HenryJ]

Any in progress photos?

[F9K9]

Any in progress photos?

Actually, I just did a long write up under my "CC won't start" and I lost it somewhere. The answer is no, obviously Am spending to much time performing CPR.

The VSC is mounted (still learning about proper sized pop rivets), the override ON and Off switches are installed and wired to the VSC as well as the ignition on source. I am lacking the AC connection, the main positive and ground to the VSC. I went nuts trying to figure out the "fuse taps" that Flex-a-lite said was in my parts to utilize for the ignition on wire and the positive feed to my switches and lost about 2 hours there but, I have spliced into correct "fused" wires and cleaned up my GPS antennas, AUX lighting swicth and did a little housekeeping while the dash was apart.

I knew rain was enroute (turned out to be sleet) and I figured that stuff whould need to come apart and I could take pictures then.

[F9K9]

HenryJ, I have a few questions about the physical LS1 fan mounting and then a couple about wiring. The first four questions can be followed by looking at your photo below.



#1 Are these tab measurements required to be precise or is the lower lip of the original fan shroud mounting slot full length and precise measurements not needed?

#2 Is this the lip that you reduced by .25 inch to get the e-fan closer to the radiator? If so, what type of tool did you use?

#3 Is this the side that you removed the tabs to make it fit because I see some remaining on the other side?

#4 I am reading that you used pop rivets to secure the tabs and may I also assume you applied them from the this side of the photo? Does an artfully done slot need to be cut in the lip (if, required what did you use to do it?)

No pics for thes electrical questions

#5 I know you found a neat place to splice into the AC demand wire but, where did you splice into the wire and what type of connection?

#6 You have already varied from their instructions to use the battery's positive terminal and used the power center but, where exactly did you attach the ground if, it wasn't the battery terminal?

[HenryJ]

#1 Are these tab measurements required to be precise or is the lower lip of the original fan shroud mounting slot full length and precise measurements not needed?

They need to be pretty close to line up with the slots. You will need to copy the stock lower fan shroud spacing.

#2 Is this the lip that you reduced by .25 inch to get the e-fan closer to the radiator? If so, what type of tool did you use?

Yes. As you can see it is longer than the sides. I used a 1/16" abrasive cut off wheel on a 4" disk grinder. This cuts and melts through. It leaves a very nice straight edge once you break off the melted plastic left on the edges.

#3 Is this the side that you removed the tabs to make it fit because I see some remaining on the other side?

Yes. There is actually a small strip on the otherside that is exposed core.

#4 I am reading that you used pop rivets to secure the tabs and may I also assume you applied them from the this side of the photo?

No , install them from the plastic side to the tabs. That way you will not need backing washers.

Does an artfully done slot need to be cut in the lip (if, required what did you use to do it?)

Yes. Use the same cutoff wheel plunged twice for the correct width. then a screw driver will break out the sliver of plastic.

#5 I know you found a neat place to splice into the AC demand wire but, where did you splice into the wire and what type of connection?

Actually I just cut and spread the insulation , split the wire inserted my wire through, wrapped around and soldered the connection. Then wrapped with electrical tape and recovered with the convoluted tubing.

#6 You have already varied from their instructions to use the battery's positive terminal and used the power center but, where exactly did you attach the ground if, it wasn't the battery terminal?

I used a self tapping screw in the core support.

[F9K9]

#5 I know you found a neat place to splice into the AC demand wire but, where did you splice into the wire and what type of connection?

Actually I just cut and spread the insulation , split the wire inserted my wire through, wrapped around and soldered the connection. Then wrapped with electrical tape and recovered with the convoluted tubing.

okay, assuming I make surgeon status, in this life time, where did you make this splice in relation to the rear plug to the AC compressor?

The bottom "tabs" will actually need to be placed once I pull the OEM shroud? Is the photo obscuring the back side of the rivets on the tabs and I need not worry about them contacting the radiator?

One final question for now Do I interpret their directions correctly to place the temperature probe close to our upper radiator hose?

As a footnote...... I can't wait for "Mr. I Installed my SkIDZ flares in 35 degree temps/how do I check my ATF level?" to dive into this one

[HenryJ]

...where did you make this splice in relation to the rear plug to the AC compressor?

About 6" from the plug on the back of the compressor. Where ever is convenient to get your wire strippers around the wire.

The bottom "tabs" will actually need to be placed once I pull the OEM shroud? Is the photo obscuring the back side of the rivets on the tabs and I need not worry about them contacting the radiator?

If the rivets are too long they could hit the radiator. You can clip off the excess. There is still a lip remaining and this leaves some room. The tabs do not rest on the heater core.

Do I interpret their directions correctly to place the temperature probe close to our upper radiator hose?

The probe needs to measure the temperature of the incoming coolant. Anywhere within a couple inches of the upper hose is fine.

[F9K9]

I think you answered everything where even I, understand. Thanks for taking the time.

[GeorgesBlazah]

dont get your unit wet!

[F9K9]

dont get your unit wet!

I saw your post on that. Did you have the same unit as HenryJ?

[GeorgesBlazah]

yeap

[HenryJ]

dont get your unit wet!

Wait for it to thoroughly dry and see if it works. I have had relays full of water that quit working, but once disassembled and dryed out they worked fine.

[F9K9]

Brule, Which terminal did you plug the AC demand connection, #7 or #8?

[HenryJ]

Brule, Which terminal did you plug the AC demand connection, #7 or #8?

Sorry for the delay, #8 looks to be the one that I am using.
If you have doubts, test the wire. #7 is negative and #8 is positive for activation.
One of the things I like about this controller is the adaptability and choices

[F9K9]

[F9K9]

Left fan (Drivers side) Light blue = Positive , Gray = Negative
Right Fan (Pass. side) White = Positive , Black = Negative

Another question but, it does not need immediate attention Both of your fans run together each and every time? The reason I ask is because my 1st gen Eclipse/Talon/Laser had two fans and one would kick in with the AC while the other was independent. I had a situation similar to Quick where one failed in rush hr Cincy and I had to pull over and let it cool. When I limped in to the dealer 2 hours away the following day I was told that the non-AC fan died.

[HenryJ]

...Both of your fans run together each and every time?

Yes. By tapping the AC request wire they do not cycle with the clutch though. They are on all the time the controls are in AC positions.

... The reason I ask is because my 1st gen Eclipse/Talon/Laser had two fans and one would kick in with the AC while the other was independent. I had a situation similar to Quick where one failed in rush hr Cincy and I had to pull over and let it cool. When I limped in to the dealer 2 hours away the following day I was told that the non-AC fan died.

I am sure you could install dual controllers and operate them independently.
I find that during the winter they are used very little, unless I choose a defrost position for the heat. I probably will add a switch to disconnect the AC and operate the vacuum controlled heater valve at some point.
While redundant controllers might be a good idea, I'm not sure the cost outweighs the benefit.
If the controller fails , I will switch to manual or jumper them to run full time.

My rational for running both all the time that they are needed is I want things to cool down rapidly. The controller already starts them softly at 60%. One fan operated independently would offer only 30% cooling on start. I really don't see an advantage to breaking down the graduations further.
Without the variable speed controller, I can see an advantage to starting one fan and then the other. This would reduce start-up load. The controller kind of does that already.

A good reason for running both fans during AC operation is that the system can only remove as much heat from the interior as the condenser can effectively transfer to the air. Better air flow means better AC operation. That may sound a little strange, but you should know that the air conditioner does not blow cold air, it removes the heat. I know this sounds like another "sucker theory" , but AC does infact suck heat , not blow cold.

Sorry. I will summarize- Both fans for AC operation is GOOD

[F9K9]

Sorry. I will summarize- Both fans for AC operation is GOOD

Okay, that's what I needed to know. I "may" attempt to finish up tomorrow with the last of the install but, Mrs. Hoff is determined to fire up her blender so, we shall see.

I am sure that once it is all installed that trouble shooting will be required I did really take my time at all the connections, soldered as suggested and hid as much wire with OEM as possible.

[GeorgesBlazah]

no go, my controller was fried. i reaplaced it and now its good to go. now i gotta find a way to make a waterproff box for it. and i gotta get a 180 t-stat.

[HenryJ]

no go, my controller was fried. i reaplaced it and now its good to go. now i gotta find a way to make a waterproff box for it. and i gotta get a 180 t-stat.

Is there any chance it was a flooded fan unable to turn that created enough resistance to fry the controller rather than water in the box?
Did you have the manual override activated?

[GeorgesBlazah]

you know that might make some sense. i never really thought of it that way and i never knew it could work like that. the controller didnt seem like it got that wet, there was some muddy water dried up on top but it didnt seem like it was alot and i opened it up and the board is coverd by some stuff. the only thing exposed is those tabs. that might explain why the fuse was blown on the orange power wire. i also havent wired up the manual override yet, im gonna get on it this week since im on spring break.

[F9K9]

......I am sure that once it is all installed that trouble shooting will be required ..........

Not a good day today.

E-fans are installed but, just a FEW Minor setbacks Lemme see if I can recall them all

A metal cut off wheel blew apart while cutting the slots for the bottom tabs is the plastic e-fan shroud. Those friggin' pieces hurt like a mofo when they tag you. When I unplugged the grinder from the exterior ground fault outlet I had sparks and smoke. The outlet is dead. It powers Mrs. Hoff's pond aerator so, she is POed. The outlet is before it enters the house so, no comments about checking the breaker

When assembled and powered up, I discovered that my ignition "hot" source is faulty as indicated by one of the LEDs not being lit (I hooked it up with the gauges output). So, back into the dash I go tomorrow to correct.

They are supposed to come on when the AC is activated but, they aren't. I have the correct LEDs on after I directly wired the 'ignition on" to the battery as they suggested in troubleshooting.

I have a stock t-stat in, for the moment so, looks like I have bad connections with the temp probe because no adjusting of the temperature with it at 205 degrees will turn them on.

The somewhat "good news" is that my "Override Fans On" switch isn't overriding "jack" but, my "Override Fans Off" turns them on.

Tomorrow is another day