Cargo Basket AUX Light Wiring Suggestions

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:.................That has things lit up really well. Hows the glare on the windshield? Are you going to need a visor?..........

The interior is so torn apart that I can't give a firm answer on the question. The rack is moved back as far as it can go and the glare on the hood is not readily apparent judging from first looks but, will update later.

HenryJ wrote:...........Does the alt take a dip when you turn those ..........

My alternator gauge is so inconsistent it is hard to tell. It is all over the place without the lights but, always 14 volts and over. I can hear a change in the motor when I turn the lights on but, it is over 14 volts. Reminds me of the '73 0pel when I hit the brights when it had the aircraft landing lights for the high beams.

WVHogRider wrote:.........................I'm headed for Georgia on Wednesday for the last 5 days of their hunting season, and could swing by possibly... j/k.

Swing by anytime. You'll be welcome. Thanks for the compliment!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 7:27 pm

Got most of my mess cleaned up and even found my missing 30A fuses. Will take pictures of my switches mounted to JIGGS CD delete plate that I purchased from him. I am still toying with the best way to mount it to my console so, that I can troubleshoot wiring "when" a problem arises. The particular style "velcro" that I am trying to use on the small lip doesn't seem to want to stick despite thoroughly cleaning the surfaces with alcohol.

You would not believe the feeling that I had when everything worked the first time I threw a switch.

I figured 10 - 12 blown fuses and a couple more weeks of sorting out the problems.

I probably just jinxed myself but, the moment was well worth it

I appreciate all the help from Brule, Walt and everyone else that provided ideas and guidance.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 7:36 pm

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:...Hows the glare on the windshield?...
....The rack is moved back as far as it can go and the glare on the hood is not readily apparent judging from first looks but, will update later.

My lights light up any dust that is on the windshield. The hood glare is no problem. The windshield may be though. I plan to aim mine for a wide side shot too.

I had lights above the cab on my old 3/4T. I was not really a fan after having them. I see the front lighting below the hood much more useful. Kinda kewl though

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:09 pm

HenryJ wrote:My lights light up any dust that is on the windshield. The hood glare is no problem. The windshield may be though. I plan to aim mine for a wide side shot too.

I had lights above the cab on my old 3/4T. I was not really a fan after having them. I see the front lighting below the hood much more useful. Kinda kewl though

I am sure that you're correct but, I had to keep modding and the aux fuel tank was beyond my expertise. I never claimed it was practical

It may be useful someday, who knows? At least people can't accuse the short bus as being a street queen

I have run emergency vehicle "take down" lights that were on an overhead light bar without noticing the windshield problem but, I'm sure that there is a lot of differences. I'll post anything that I discover.

I have the wiring partially down and it should help with the Cherokee

Already been checking out alternator mods for it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:59 am

I think they look great. The rear lights will be a great asset. I am sure the front lighting will be handy when you figure out the sweet spots.

I don't think anything is "beyond your expertise". You are wise enough to ask questions. Anything can be achieved.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:02 am

Okay, the switches for the lights on Jigg's CD delete plate. I may buy a couple more switches to replace my e-fan override switches and move them there.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:24 pm

just saw your pics of the lights mounted and turned on.......very good job!!!! and i like the way you wired it through the pillar!!!

MTUBlaZeR2 · Post by **MTUBlaZeR2** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:38 pm

I know this is an old thread, but I do have many questions regarding this topic.

First of all...I have a zr2 Blazer...HenryJ lured me in from zr2usa.

I'd like to do something similar to f9k9 here with wiring. I currently have a pair of foglights mounted to my front bumper, but have plans for 3 more pairs of lights. (final setup will include 3 pairs of Hella 500's, and one pair of cheap-o's for backup lights).

Is the glovebox too far away for the junction block with the relays? I could also mount it in the backseat compartment area (on a crew cab, it would be right in the middle of the back door aprox.)

I really appreciate the help guys...this website is awesome! The only information on here is relevant information...and the writeups are great.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:50 pm

Welcome to the forum

The area outboard of the glove box is an excellent location. It is a short run and a single 10 ga hot and ground wire will suffice. From the relays 12 ga wires will be safe on the short run to the roof. Fuse everything on the 10 ga at the battery. If, I am wrong, henryJ will correct me but, mine is working great so far. I have not had more than 4 lights working for an extended period ( over 1 hour) with my set up, though.

And yes, I am proud of that particular mod

MTUBlaZeR2 · Post by **MTUBlaZeR2** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:33 pm

Well now I feel kinda bad...because now that I recall, you're the reason I had this page bookmarked in the first place! You posted up a link in my wiring thread for my bumper Hella 500's.

So, thanks a lot!

Where do you mean when you say the area "outboard" of the glove box? Do you mean behind the glovebox, like when I completely remove it? How hard is that to do?

And two of the lights will actually be reverse lights...so they will be way back there. Any suggestions for what gauge wire I should use with those?

EDIT: To clear everything up I suppose I'll have to let the cat out of the bag. Mr. cknaffle will be fabricating a lightbar for my zr2. So these lights aren't for a roof rack, they're for a lightbar. Therefore, my reverse lights will probably mounted on the hitch or I'll cut holes in my bumper.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:13 am

MTUBlaZeR2 wrote:........So, thanks a lot! .......

Thank HenryJ and others from this board. They held my hand and walked me through everything. I am your basic electrical moron

MTUBlaZeR2 wrote:............Where do you mean when you say the area "outboard" of the glove box? Do you mean behind the glovebox, like when I completely remove it? How hard is that to do?.........

Empty your glove box first. At the top of the opening of the glovebox is a metal spring/clip. press upwards and the glove box will rotate down and out. If, you are sitting in the passenger seat, there is room to the right of where the glove box was up against the metal of the cab.

MTUBlaZeR2 wrote:..........So these lights aren't for a roof rack, they're for a lightbar. Therefore, my reverse lights will probably mounted on the hitch or I'll cut holes in my bumper.

Well this really depends on how many amps that they will draw but, you should be ok with 12 GA wire. You will need to find a hot source for the reverse lights inside the cab or under the hood and not take the route I took. My relay is tucked inside the frame near the back tapped into the actual reverse lights. They come on automatically when in reverse. If, you are going to activate them with a switch then, it would be much easier to accomplish.

Relays

Switches

MTUBlaZeR2 · Post by **MTUBlaZeR2** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:39 am

I am your basic electrical moron

Good...me too!

I was trying to incorporate the reverse lights with the aux lights...as in have the relay for them on the same junction block.

I just hope I'm not getting ahead of myself here...I really screwed up my last wiring job on my bumper lights...the relay was messed up, so I bypassed it...melted some wires in the process.

How safe is it to have the power in the cab? I don't want to be starting any fires.

And would it be alright to run the power wire for the junction block through the antenna grommet? I wouldn't want to interfere with my reception.

Thanks again.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:16 pm

Use a fuse or fusible link very close to the power source to protect the wiring. Size it close so it is the first to go before you melt wires.

Check out the wire gauge tables and charts for sizing wire and calculating loads.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 3:07 pm

MTUBlaZeR2 wrote:.........And would it be alright to run the power wire for the junction block through the antenna grommet? I wouldn't want to interfere with my reception.......

Mine is fused at the battery and goes through the antenna grommet w/o any radio interference.

MTUBlaZeR2 · Post by **MTUBlaZeR2** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:14 am

Thanks a lot for the replies. I've been really busy with starting school lately. Hopefully this will be a Christmas project, but it may be later. It all depends on when cknaffle can get me that light bar bent up.