need help with wiring
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need help with wiring
ok i got extreme lights installed were the toe hooks are a few months back i had them wired into the driving lights so i don't have to turn them on and off my self. i like them but i have since than installed super white headlights and now want to change the extreme lights to white to match the headlights(the old extreme lights are yellow).so i went out and got them and simply removed the old ones and put in the new ones no problem right?well first they stay on after i turn the truck off and they stay on even during the day .than this morning i go out to start my truck and DEAD all the life has bin sucked out of the battery any ideas.....
- HenryJ
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Re: need help with wiring
Where exactly did you wire them in ?duce wrote: i got extreme lights... i had them wired into the driving lights
To the DRL (daytime running lamps) ?
To the Fog lights?
To the high beams? Low beams?
What color wires did you tap into?
Sorry I'm not understanding what you are calling the driving lights.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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I'd take it back to that local shop, and tell them that you are having a problem with the installation.duce wrote:i should have stated i didn't install them my self i had a local shop do it i do believe they wired them into the low beams because they only cam on at night. as for color white black and green...
The headlight wiring on these trucks is way more complicated than needed IMO. The AHL, DRL are nice , but add alot of confusion when it comes to adding mods.
The headlight wiring does not have a deticated positive and negative, they "swap" with activation of the AHL/DRL....( confused me too )
If I installed it , I would have used a relay that is activated by a switch, or in your case since you want them on with the low beams, activated by them, (though that would take some thinking since the +/- rotate).
If the relay is supplied from the battery and not the electrical distribution center, you are not protected by the battery saver, and could indeed drain the system if the relay is stuck.
Follow the aux. lights wiring and see if there is a relay, if so check it.
The easiest thing to do would take it back to them and see what is wrong.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
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The relay setup to activate fromt he high or low is what you need if you only want them on when the headlights are on, but honestly you will still need to be able to turn them off when the weather isnt bad.
I know that the laws change from state to state, but here in Louisiana you can and will get pulled over for running fog lights/ driving lights/ auxilliary lighting/ when on public roads and not in inclement weather conditions.
that being said, I modified the relay circuits in my Z24 so that I could keep the fog lights on with highs, or low beams -- stock they would only operate with lows turned on.
Explain exactly what you want and I may be able to draw out the schematic on how your relays shoud be wired, but it's waaay harder to describe it on the net.
I know that the laws change from state to state, but here in Louisiana you can and will get pulled over for running fog lights/ driving lights/ auxilliary lighting/ when on public roads and not in inclement weather conditions.
that being said, I modified the relay circuits in my Z24 so that I could keep the fog lights on with highs, or low beams -- stock they would only operate with lows turned on.
Explain exactly what you want and I may be able to draw out the schematic on how your relays shoud be wired, but it's waaay harder to describe it on the net.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
yes their is a relay with a fews and its not powered directly from the battery.the new lights came with a switch but i am not sure how to go about just adding the switch to the set up.that might solve the problem but than the service guy who gave my battery a jump said that even with the lights of they can still draw power
- HenryJ
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Where is the power supply coming from?duce wrote:yes their is a relay with a fews and its not powered directly from the battery.
Just add it in the line that taps the low beam to activate the relay. It will act as an "arm" switch.the new lights came with a switch but i am not sure how to go about just adding the switch to the set up.
I don't like the sounds of that, they should not be set up to draw power all the time. Wonder what it was that he saw, to say that?but than the service guy who gave my battery a jump said that even with the lights of they can still draw power
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
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the only thing I can think of there is that the swithin the cab on some aftermarket light kits is illuminated at all times, but you don't have a switch in the cab -- plus that LED that would normally light a switch like that can run for a month off a normal car battery with no appreciable voltage drop.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]