Upgrading battery cables

[fallvitals]

In reguards to upgrading battery cables, from what Brule said stock should be fine, but it also wouldn't hurt and some people here said it helped them.

How do you do it, just get another length of cable and run it, in addition, to the existing battery harness, postivie and negative? What has me a little confused is that you have the stock harness with 3 leads in the positive and negative, its not as simple as just replacing the + and - cable.

I found this, but im sure there has to be a cheaper way. http://www.innovativewiring.com/ChevyPr ... ckPage.htm


Also, im gonna upgrade my battery to a diehard platinum, it has battery posts. I have never had experiance with those, can the stock wiring harness work with that? That aftermarket harness above can for $5 more... ?

[HenryJ]

If you check the wire gauge tables , our 6-8 ga alternator wire is good for well over 200 amps in the short distance it travels. This chart has been very good and offers a comfortable cushion.
That being said, it does not hurt to go over kill. It really is as simple as adding a larger cable from the back of the alternator to the positive battery cable connection on the battery.

Don't forget that the power travels from ground and that it is actually more important. I added a 4 ga cable from my negative battery post to the alternators mounting bolt.

A dual post battery makes this all much easier. Add the extra cables to the top posts.
I soldered a terminal end into a post terminal connector. Then bolted the cables and accessories to these.

You can even bolt on a circuit breaker for your high drain accessories (winch):



I have a 150 amp breaker on there now, but never tripped the 100 amp. I had to replace it after quite a few years. It corroded internally as the seal was bad. I now use a marine grade 150 amp resettable breaker.

[fallvitals]

Theres a few Diehard Platinums with side and top connecters. Im just not sure which one, if either of em, will fit my truck till I actually go to buy one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153 ... num&vName=

So, are you still running the stock postive wire to the alternator, along with the new postive wire, or just the new postive wire? And you ran the negative from the battery to one of the two mounting bolts infront of the fan, correct?

Looks like if I can't get a battery with dual terminals, this should work to connect everything, they are side terminal adapters.



I just wonder if Ill have too many things connecting into one adapter... sotck harness, new 12v wire, fog lights, amp, and soon a winch. I guess I can still use my side post adapter with this top post adapter to "break them up"

[HenryJ]

Theres a few Diehard Platinums with side and top connecters. Im just not sure which one, if either of em, will fit my truck till I actually go to buy one.

If you check the end of the battery thread you will see that I have the Group 34/78 Diehard Platinum. It is a tight fit, but it does fit. You need to remove the radiator cap to install it.

...are you still running the stock postive wire to the alternator, along with the new postive wire...

Yes.

...you ran the negative from the battery to one of the two mounting bolts infront of the fan, correct?

One of the two mounting bolts for the alternator, yes.

[fallvitals]

I went out and tried to do some measuring, and it looks like the 34/78 will fit, but the battery tray will definantly have to be cut/bent on the end so that it sets flat in it. Then I read your reply which confirms it will fit, but its tight.

Any idea whats the best place to get some 4awg? and how do you crimp something that big? My tools only go to like 8 or 10awg?

Well, I found some by the foot on ebay for $1.40/ft not bad. and connectors there too. I guess thats the road ill take. But again, how do you crimp em? A vice?

[HenryJ]

I went out and tried to do some measuring, and it looks like the 34/78 will fit, but the battery tray will definantly have to be cut/bent on the end so that it sets flat in it.

No modifications needed. It fits in the tray fine. Just tight getting it installed. Our trucks use a group 75 battery. The group 78 is slightly larger. This battery meets both applications.

Any idea whats the best place to get some 4awg? and how do you crimp something that big? My tools only go to like 8 or 10awg?

Your local auto parts store will have ready made cables. Just tell them what you need for length and terminals.
Your next option is to buy a Hammer Crimper and make your own. Or solder the terminals. Add a little heat shrink and you can make what you need.

Make sure you use good quality automotive or marine grade cable. It will better resist oils and heat. Welding cable is NOT a good substitute. "Been Der, Dun-Dat".

[fallvitals]

I can solder em, thats not big deal. I know if I get em from a parts store ill pay a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Pro-Series- ... 483ac737df

Brand New - Retails For 2.99
Stinger Part Number: SPW14TB
All Stinger Power Wire incorporates high strand counts of finely stranded OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) and high quality glossy PVC insulation that is oil and extreme temperature (-40 to 60 degrees C) resistant. All of this combines to create power wire that is extremely flexible with very low resistance, but yet durable enough to hold up to the extremes of the automotive environment.
Sold by the foot - For example, if you need 10 feet of wire you
would enter 10 as the quantity when you bid
Pure (OFC) Oxygen Free Copper
1666 strands of wire
View our eBay FAQ for more information


Thats what im looking at, I think itll work just fine. And $1.39/ft not bad.

Man, I just done see that battery fitting on the tray! lol. I can see it fitting the spot but the tray look to be 1 1/4" not wide enough...

[HenryJ]

... I just done see that battery fitting on the tray! lol. I can see it fitting the spot but the tray look to be 1 1/4" not wide enough...

Fits just fine. Actually better than the 34/78 DT Optima since the positive cable is closer to the inside.

[roadrunner]

It'll fit vitals. Got a grp 78 wally-world in mine now for a while. Tight going in and yes remove the rad cap but it does fit.

[fallvitals]

I still can't see the battery tray as is working without the edge next to the radiator being cut off/bent flat. You all are saying it basically sets next to the radiator, and the tray is about 1 1/4" from it. Either way, I want the battery in when I install my winch so I'll pick it up Friday evening or Saturday morning.

[HenryJ]

None of has said it sits next to the radiator. That is where you are getting mixed up. The lip of the fender hangs in forcing it that way as you lower it into place. Once down it slides over into place.

You don't have to believe us. You can wait and try it for yourself. You'll see

[fallvitals]

Lol, I'm not doubting y'all. I trust ya. I just will have to see it in person to grasp it, but I think I understand.

I need to go pick up my alternator from the shop and order that new cable. I guess I'll spend the $20 for the hammer crimper. It'll last a lifetime even if I only use it once a very blue moon

Also, I'm guessing it's not a issue since you didn't do it Brule, but why didn't you upgrade the ground wires to the frame as well? Or does the one new ground accomplish the same?

[rlrnr53]

fallvitals, when I was on the fire dept, we had a pumper with a gas 427 in it. We had sdtarting from day one. After about a year of this, I took it to a local heavy duty parts housse and had new heavier cables made. After the new cables, the engine would be running before you could release the ignition key. That experience taught me the need for heavy battery cables. I have been wanting tp replace the cables on my truck for a while, buy more pressing matters (twins graduation and mothers health problems) have prevented their purchase and installation.

[HenryJ]

... why didn't you upgrade the ground wires to the frame as well?

I added a bigger pump. My intent was to add a big pipeline to the pump.
The rest of the distribution system has been working for me.

Every time I rethink this I go out and check the sizes and lengths. Check the chart and see that it should be adequate. I do the same thing with my fans periodically.
I am in that "happy place". Things are working predictably. If it ain't broke, I'm not in a hurry to fix it.

Much of the over sizing of cables that I did was to "rule out" when I was testing the alternator upgrades. I would not call them "necessary".

[fallvitals]

I gotcha. Judging by that chart we should be good, but after a few storys like above I just wanna make sure I'm getting the most from it and I a few direct bolt on wires will do it, awesome

I just order some gold plated terminal post connectors, a hammer crimper, and awaiting on email reply on shipping cost for wire and connectors. Get the new battery Saturday and the winch tommorow, should be a fun weekend, lol. Or atleast the weekend after that when it all gets tested

[F9K9]

Glad to see you on the road to a very cool mod!!!!!

[fallvitals]

Lol ya. In my normal fashion I'm all ready trying to make the system bulletproof before it has a chance to break... Or just throw money at it, lol.

I was thinking tonight if you go to sell that heep in a few years let me know! Lol. I almost considered buying this jacked up wrangler in Ashland last year when searching for a new vehicle. It had many mods, snorkel, 35s iirc, big suspenion lift, etc. It was a dailey diver and had only 55k miles? Hard to tell what I had been through but the guy only wanted 12k. But I needed a truck, you just can't haul stuff or throw stuff in the bed with a jeep! But man it was a sweet deal without seeing it in person. Lol. ID love to have a jeep like yours someday. But now I got a little off topic, lol.

[F9K9]

.........But now I got a little off topic, lol.

NP, real men drive pick ups

[killian96ss]

The factory battery cables are undersized even for a stock system. After upgrading my cables my electrical system increase by 1-2 volts over stock. My headlights even got brighter after the upgrade! I learned a lot about wire and cable when I managed a production and testing department for a leading wire manufacturer in the marine industry. The battery cables made by Gary @ Innovative Wiring are very high quality and also the only aftermarket performance cables that are custom made for the late model S-series. You would be hard pressed to make something better for less money. Trust me, its money well spent!

Steve

[HenryJ]

...After upgrading my cables my electrical system increase by 1-2 volts over stock.

Holy crud! You must boil the battery dry putting out 15-16 volts now
I would say if you had a jump in voltage of 1-2 volts you need to address that problem with your regulator as it is outside its operating range.

[killian96ss]

...After upgrading my cables my electrical system increase by 1-2 volts over stock.

Holy crud! You must boil the battery dry putting out 15-16 volts now
I would say if you had a jump in voltage of 1-2 volts you need to address that problem with your regulator as it is outside its operating range.

Nothing wrong with my regulator. My voltage went from about 13.4 to 14.6 after the upgrade. I saw similar results on my Impala SS & S10 Blazer after upgrading to larger cables. Almost everyone who upgraded to Garys cables or did their own saw an increase in voltage and better light output which just proves without a doubt that the factory battery cables are undersized. If you were to upgrade your undersized cables I bet you would see similar gains.

Steve

[HenryJ]

... If you were to upgrade your undersized cables I bet you would see similar gains.

Mine runs 14.2-14.6 all day long

I did add another ground to the alternator mount and a cable from the alternator to the battery.
Adding larger than needed cables does not hurt. Mine were added to take that out of the equation while testing bigger alternators.
Upgrading the alternator to match the added loads was the best improvement that I have done in this area.
I think I'll be just fine.

[killian96ss]

The voltage reading @ the alt will not change much with different sized cables so I feel the best place to get a good reading is @ the power terminal on the fuse box. Take a reading there with all accessories off & then on. After switching to larger cables you will definitely see a good increase in voltage. Almost all GM vehicles have undersized factory cables, However they do meet the minimum load requirement for a factory system with all the accessories on. Believe me there is room for improvement. The results speak for themself! Even if you make your own larger cables I guarantee you will see a gain. Are you getting 14.6 volts @ the fuse box with everything running?

Steve

[HenryJ]

Are you getting 14.6 volts @ the fuse box with everything running

Better than that. Measured at the PCM which is after the electrical distribution center.

[fallvitals]

Well I decided to do the extra ground and just do the Big 3 Upgrade. Wire wont make it this weekend, unless im really lucky, but not a big deal ill be busy with 500 other things with my truck, lol.

Im betting the wires will make a big differance for me, I was reading voltage at the battery, then would occasionally read it at the alternator and it was usually .1-.2 volts higher at the alternator. I bet those bigger wires will let more energy flow. I didnt even think about that at the moment..

[killian96ss]

Compression fittings are nice if you don't have a battery lug crimper. Street Wires & Rockford Fosgate both make nice battery terminals and wire fittings. Make sure all crimps or connections are tight.

Steve

[fallvitals]

I saw those. The post connectors I got are gold plated has a screw for ring crimps and can take two bare wires.

I saw digital read out positive terminals.... Do they last more then 1 month?

[HenryJ]

Careful of the "Gold plated" battery terminals. Some are plated steel and do not resist oxidation / corrosion very well. They rust and create a terrible connection. I would be best to use a terminal made of the same metal as the post. That is not always possible though. Often when dealing with side post terminals steel is the only choice. Zinc plating seems to do very well to isolate dissimilar metals.

Soldering the wire to the terminal is the best way to go as it seals out any oxidation that might occur. A crimped and heat shrink sealed connection might be a close second.

Check out the pictures of the cables made by Steve's buddy Gary. The terminals heat shrink and shielding look very good. That is how a cable should be put together.

[fallvitals]

Mine are machined from solid brass stock and gold plated. Or so it says.

Got the diehard platinum 34/78 today. It fit. Smaller the. I expected. Had t move my piaa relays some, they are mounted beside the battery hanging down they started to get smashed some with the new battery.

[killian96ss]

Gary takes tin plated copper lugs, drops in a solder pellet, heats it up with a torch until the solder melts, then while the solder is still molten he puts the cable in and crimps it with a device that looks like large bolt cutter, and then shrink wraps it to seal it up.

Steve

[HenryJ]

Gary takes tin plated copper lugs, drops in a solder pellet, heats it up with a torch until the solder melts...

Those are a real time saver. The cost is not bad when you purchase in bulk. I really like them.

[fallvitals]

Well I'm not sure how to solder a wire that but, without melting all the casing.

But I tried out that hammer crimper the other night on some 4 gauge wire. That's fun! lol. I'm glad I bought it. I think a vice, and medium sized punch ( and hammer) could get it done just as well ifyou don't have a hammer crimper but it sure is worth it!

I also got some 3/4" heat shrink tubing with adhesive coming. When you heat it up to shrink the adhesive melts helping to seal the connection. I never heard of such a thing and seemed like it would be a lot better then normal heat shrink.

[HenryJ]

... When you heat it up to shrink the adhesive melts helping to seal the connection. I never heard of such a thing and seemed like it would be a lot better then normal heat shrink.

Yup, thats the good stuff.
While you're investing in tools...watch for a good buy on a heat gun. I think the last one I picked up came from Homedepot of all places.
That makes heat shrinking nice. It also comes in handy for forming or re-forming plastic too.

[rlrnr53]

Heat shrink with adhesive is great! It's good at keeping out winter's salty brine. It's the only thing that I'll use.

[fallvitals]

Big 3 Upgrade. 4awg and heat shrink with adhesive (badass stuff).



Looks like a octopuse attacking my battery.




You can see the negative to ground, and ground leading to engine block. As well as my PIAA relays.




Power wire connected, and engine ground to alternator bolt.


I havent tested them for a differance in voltage, but it seems like acording to the dash volt meter, its about .1 higher. Or it could just be a mental thing, lol. Either way I know im getting the most from it.

[killian96ss]

You probably won't notice much of an increase in voltage going with 4 awg cable since the factory cables are already 4 or 6 awg. The Innovative Wiring battery cables use 0 awg pos & neg cables and 2 awg alt & fuse box cables. The fuse box cable needs to be bigger so that more juice gets to the entire electrical system. I gained anywhere from .5 to 1.2 volts on all 3 of my vehicles after upgrading to Garys cables!

Steve

[HenryJ]

Big 3 Upgrade. 4awg and heat shrink with adhesive...

Looks like a nice job

[fallvitals]

Sounds kinda like a commercial for those premade wires. 4 is more then plenty for our vehicles.