HPP3 PROBLEM!! Help!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:57 pm

Within a week or so, I will be getting an HPP3 for my truck! I just wanted input as to what settings I should use. Definately, I want the firmer shifts. My driving habits tend to lean towards a heavy foot, I like to hear the roaring sound of the dual exhaust! I don't want to change the fuel setting to 93 though, I would like to keep it at 87. I will also remove the speed limiter and set it higher. I don't know if it matters, but I have the 3.42 gears. When I did the body lift, I did go from 235/70/15s to 30" Cooper Discoverer S/Ts. Do I set the tire size at 30, or the actual diameter?? So, I am open to suggestions as to where to set the RPM shift points and anything else I left out!

Thanks,

Bob

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:08 pm

That will depend on the mods you have , your local conditions, chosen fuel, etc.

The directions for setting the shift points are included in the manual.

Your best bet is to find a lonely section of highway, or good road, for some WOT passes.
#1- Choose the fuel you will be running , obviously there are performance gains with the use of 93 octane tuning.

#2- for a stock engine, without internal modifications, the 5600 rpm rev limit is probably just fine. (IMO it should stay together through 6000 rpm ,safely). So take your pick there, hopefully you'll never use it.

#3- Raise the top speed limiter, not that you'll use it either, but you may exceed the stock setting for a brief time, hopefully

#4- Adjust for your tire size (speedo-calibrate is important for acurate VSS readings that control the transmission shifting)

#5- If you have not added an internal shift kit, add the shiftfirmness. You'll love that one

#6- This is the one that takes some work. I think the book has the directions, but basically here is what you do.
Take a friend to watch the tach with you. make a pass WOT (Wide Open Throttle) go through the gears, and don't worry about shifting to fourth (OD) you'll never do that in a race.
Log the shift points and note where it felt like it "quit pulling".
Work on first gear, then second , etc.
This will get you "in the ballpark" then adjust in small steps at the track to fine tune for the quickest times.
Keep in mind that bigger rpm's does not mean faster times. You need to shift when the engine stops pulling hard.
For mine I felt that the stock shift points were too high, the engine was done pulling and still trying to get rpm's before it would shift.

Here is what I am using now-

Engine tuning=87 octane power tuning

Engine rev limiter=5600

Top-speed limiter=128

Tire size=32.75"

Rear gear ratio=N

Transmission=Y

Shift point MPH&RPM= 1-2 (-2), 2-3 (-3), 3-4 (-4)

Shift firmness=Y

If you get the error message to call Hypertech, shut it off check your connections and start over. It has happened to me a couple times. Probably because I was moving the box/cord around.

Takes about 10 min. for the whole process.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:14 pm

It also helps to get the Jet 180 degree low temp t-stat which will help make a little more power.

I believe the stock t-stat is 195 degrees. Do not get the 160 degree t-stat since it will more than likely set a code due to being too cold.

Summit Racing sells the Jet 180 degree t-stat for $13.69

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:28 pm

There are no problems running 180 deg stat? As far as HPP3 settings, that's a personal thing. I run 93 oct setting, cause I think it runs way better. I've adjusted shift points to shift at lower rpms and to hold OD better on highways. I've also adjusted for tire-size/ration, which was tricky, cause I was over the limits of it running 35's/4.88's. I think I had to adjust it for 32's/4.56 and it was right on the mark. I used to run firm shifts, but found for my style of driving, it was really sucking, so I went to stock shift. I set it at the lowest speed limmiter at like 110mph, cause I think if I went that fast, my knobbies would fly off.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:58 pm

When I use the HPP3, right after it says Reading Computer and it gets to 100%, it says "Code 6D Cal Not Found" Call Hypertech. I can't call now because it's past 5pm but what do you think this is???

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:37 pm

This is what Hypertech's website says:

4. CALIBRATION NOT FOUND
• If your vehicle has a factory program that is not recognized by
the programmer, it cannot continue.

• Call Hypertech at the provided phone number on the programmer
screen. Please have your vehicle VIN number ready. The Hypertech
technical staff will instruct you what to do.

So, if I remember correctly, back in January of '05, my computer was updated at the dealership. Would this have something to do with it?? If so, is there a way to set the computer back to how it was when I bought the truck??

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:33 pm

Not related but, I have wanted to toss this out for awhile. I only have the 87 and 93 octane choices in my HPP III that is for an '02. I have selected 93 octane but, only use quality 89 octane. I have never heard a ping using this set up. I have never seen anything resembling a firm shift versus the stock shift. I have set my rpm limiter below stock
and I still see frightening rpms when I am on an on ramp and building up momentum. As a matter of fact, I have always let off the throttle for it to shift. I have always chickened out when waiting for the thing to upshift. I wonder if it would.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:53 pm

BobbleSmitty wrote: back in January of '05, my computer was updated at the dealership. Would this have something to do with it?? If so, is there a way to set the computer back to how it was when I bought the truck??

Have you not used the programmer since January? Did you try it more than once?
I don't see how, or even why you would have to the prior stock programming. Did you deprogram the truck (return it to stock) with the HPPIII before the dealership flashed the computer?

f9k9 wrote:I only have the 87 and 93 octane choices in my HPP III ...

Yes , as performance options. Plus stock 87 octane tuning. That makes three options.

f9k9 wrote: I have selected 93 octane but, only use quality 89 octane. I have never heard a ping using this set up.

The knock sensor may be working correctly and retarding the timing to compensate. Therefore you are not seeing the full performance of the higher octane fuel and the advance in timing the HPPIII provides.

f9k9 wrote: I have never seen anything resembling a firm shift versus the stock shift.

If you have it set for shift firmness. turn it off for a week and see if you notice a difference.

f9k9 wrote: I have set my rpm limiter below stock
and I still see frightening rpms when I am on an on ramp and building up momentum. As a matter of fact, I have always let off the throttle for it to shift. I have always chickened out when waiting for the thing to upshift. I wonder if it would.

The rpm limiter does just that. It limits the engine rpm. It has nothing to do with the shifts. If it does not shift soon enough at full throttle then you need to subtract from the shift points.
Mine works just right. At full throttle I have it shifting at 5200-5300 rpm for all shifts. It did take several tries to get all the shifts where I want them.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:38 pm

I just got the HPP3 today from Sonoma915... he set it back to stock before he sold it to me. I've never done anything to the computer before. All I know is that back in January of '05 the Dealership updated my computer. I am thinking that this has something to do with the HPP3 not passing that stage in the set up. I tried 4 times tonight and made sure not to move the cord or anything. Everything is plugged in just fine. It goes through all of the initial steps just fine. Gets to the "reading the computer" stage, makes it to 100% then throws the error message.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:21 pm

Your best bet is to call Hypertech customer service.

If so, you can contact Hypertech in any number of ways:
For questions, comments, or problems regarding the WebSite only, please e-mail webmaster@hypertech.com. If you have any technical questions regarding any of our products, please e-mail techsupport@hypertech.com You can also reach the Hypertech, Inc. Sales/Tech Department at (901) 382-8888 Monday - Friday between the hours of 8:00 am and 5:00 pm CST.

I doubt that the dealer can remove the update. Tech support should have an answer for you.

20Blazer00 · Post by **20Blazer00** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:15 pm

BobbleSmitty wrote:I just got the HPP3 today from Sonoma915... he set it back to stock before he sold it to me. I've never done anything to the computer before. All I know is that back in January of '05 the Dealership updated my computer. I am thinking that this has something to do with the HPP3 not passing that stage in the set up. I tried 4 times tonight and made sure not to move the cord or anything. Everything is plugged in just fine. It goes through all of the initial steps just fine. Gets to the "reading the computer" stage, makes it to 100% then throws the error message.

According to the FAQ on the HyperTech site you might have to send it back to them so they can update the program for the HyperTech to adjust for the new factory updates. I think that is one way they keep up with changes from the factory. These are simple computer programs and they expect certain information to be stored in memory at specific memory locations so if the factory makes changes to the information then that will change how the HyperTech would store the factory programing...so you would send it back to them with the changes that are stored in the failed attempt and they check it out and incorporate them into their database...

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:27 am

Customer Service says they would have to update the programmer to work with my vehicle. And to do this, since I am not the original owner of the HPP3, it would cost $266.00!!! That added to the price I paid is more than a new one is worth!

Post by **Walt** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:26 am

If Sonoma915 is the original owner, just get him to call, then you send it off.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:18 am

I don't think that would work. They also said something about being the original vehicle that it was used on. Now, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a way to set my PCM back to the way it was before the dealership updated it! If I could do that, then I could use the HPP3 because it would recognize it. Does anyone know if this is possible??

20Blazer00 · Post by **20Blazer00** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:29 am

BobbleSmitty wrote:I don't think that would work. They also said something about being the original vehicle that it was used on. Now, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a way to set my PCM back to the way it was before the dealership updated it! If I could do that, then I could use the HPP3 because it would recognize it. Does anyone know if this is possible??

The Customer Service Tech is assuming the original program has not been restored to the HyperTech III, but since it has you might want to check local wrecking yards for another ECU or find a site that will sell ECU with what you need...might have to go to E-bay to find.

This is the reason you need to research in depth your purchase before you make it. HyperTech could make it more affordable too, since in my opinion they would want more of their product out their and this is one way to do it. If I were the Tech Support manager I would be telling the owners of the company that this would be another way to make money, charge a small fee to update used programmers that have been sold to secondary customers...just think if the Auto industry did this when you bought a used car and refused to work on it because you were not the original owner.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:44 am

20Blazer00 wrote:
BobbleSmitty wrote:I don't think that would work. They also said something about being the original vehicle that it was used on.
The Customer Service Tech is assuming the original program has not been restored to the HyperTech ...

I agree. I think they are confused as to what the real problem is.

They have no way to know that you are not the original owner. I would tell them that the dealership updated your PCM to correct an inaccurate fuel gauge. You did deprogram and restore it to stock prior to the dealerships work. Now the programmer will no longer work with your truck.
Tell them THEIR programmer is flawed. It will not work for the application it was designed and that if they are unwilling to remedy the situation, you want your money back.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:07 pm

I need the original sales receipt to have them do it! The only other option is to figure out a way to set the car's computer back to how it was before they dealership updated it. Or, like 20Blazer00 said, could I get a different computer for the truck that hasn't been changed ever? And what is the difference between an ECU and a PCM???

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:17 pm

BobbleSmitty wrote:...what is the difference between an ECU and a PCM???

Probably nothing. ECU=Engine Control Unit, PCM= Powertrain Control Module.

Any chance the original receipt could be retrieved? I may just be one of those who "packrats" everything. Mine is kept in the original box with the programmer.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:31 pm

Well, I got it from Sonoma915 and he said "I bought it from Jeff024 used and it worked on is and my truck. I think he also bought it on E-Bay." So that may be hard to do!! Unless Jeff024 has it!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:37 pm

I sent Jeff a PM to see if he, by any chance, has the receipt! I hope he has it!

Post by **Walt** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 2:08 pm

In many cases, if you push hard enough, and go through enough people, high enough up the chain, you can get good results. Take Brule's advice, and when one person tells you no, go higher, and keep the blame on them. You're the innocent customer that has lost his receipt and is being taken advantage of by a big company. That tactic works pretty well in my company atleast. Most of the time, higher ups that don't normally deal with customers will go ahead and take care of the problem just to make you, the customer happy.

Just remember to be polite, but firm in all cases. A bad attitude and bad language will get you nowhere quickly.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 7:36 pm

I don't know if this will help at all, but here is some info regarding this problem from Hypertech's web site:

I returned my vehicle back to stock before I took it to the dealership. After the dealership re-flashed my vehicle's computer, the Power Programmer doesn't work and I got an error code. Why?

If the Power Programmer (or HyperPAC) doesn't contain this new calibration, you will not be able to re-install the tuning and the unit must be returned to Hypertech for updating. The unit will not allow the tuning to be installed automatically, if we have not tested the new calibration that was installed in your vehicle's computer by the dealership or service facility. What did happen is that the Hypertech Power Programmer downloaded a copy of the new calibration, causing it to display an error code. Once the unit is returned to Hypertech it will be sent to engineering to download and process the new OEM calibration information. It may take up to two weeks for Hypertech to provide and complete this service. All returned units should be sent freight prepaid, following instructions obtained from Hypertech Technical Sales Staff at 901-382-8888. (See Hypertech Instruction Manual under "Calibration Not Found" section.)

Steve