Back-up light wiring

[04crewvt]

Did you hook up the anti-tailgater switch? One pulse from those should make anyone back off.

[F9K9]

Looks like daylight back there now

The first two photos were with flash. I got it turned off on the last two. Those are just two of your 30 watt NAPA utility lights, Brule

Did you hook up the anti-tailgater switch? One pulse from those should make anyone back off.

They are just common 30 watt utility lights. I guess they are sealed beam but, the packaging does not give a clue on how to replace them. They are inside a rubber housing. I didn't install any tailgater switch. I can still use my mirrors to get my point across

[HenryJ]

Those are sealed beam bulbs. They just pop out of that rubber housing.
That is what I have on my old S-10. If those flood lamp bulbs do not offer enough light, there is an aircraft landing light bulb that fits right in that rubber housing

[04crewvt]

What you will find with those sealed beam lights (at least in my neck of the woods ) is that if one blows out the cheapest thing to do is buy another entire unit. The lamps end up costing as much if not more than the whole unit.

[HenryJ]

They really are durable. They one I have on my old S-10 has been in service for over a decade.
It is switch operated, so that may have something to do with the hours of operation.

I think we can come up with an inexpensive replacement bulb , should the need present itself.

[BADs Crew]

Nice

[F9K9]

Nice

Thanks, Brian and "crew" For such a simple mod it has grown into a giant PITA! I probably had $30 in the original set up. They were OK for a month or two. Then condensation became a problem. Then relays failing set in. Placing the relay under the hood is a must. I then go to Brule's line of reasoning and the brackets that attach the housing to a mounting surface will not tighten because the metal collar inside the rubber is longer than the rubber portion of the light housing so it was loose as he_l. Now, I have $32 in lights on the latest attempt with $5.50 for additional liquid tape, maybe $5 in wiring and connectors. I hillbilly engineer methods to tighten the housings to the brackets and several more hours are lost. I now have $70 plus dollars invested in something that I despise!

I now could have had the KC backup lights with wiring harness included for less than I have in this POS. Never again will I buy crap made in China!!!!

EDIT Ok, I am done ranting and have let 24 hrs or so pass. I still feel the same way. The sad thing is that for all I know, the KCs are made in China, as well. Even if one wants to perform decent mod and doesn't mind a little extra expense to do it right, they still are not assured of finding American made components. When I had the welding done for my steering stops being built up at the infamous Muffler/Tinting/Off-road shop, I wandered around out back of the shop and found a bunch of empty boxes for the oversize wheels. The Mickey Thompson Brand was there with all the others. They all were made in friggin' China. Mickey Thompson was as American as apple pie and it has come down to this

[F9K9]

...
I'll post daylight photos tomorrow.

I almost pulled a "Steve" This is somewhat of a daylight shot with the Brule style AUX bu lamps installed.

[F9K9]

I thought that I would post up a site on why you always want to use a relay when adding auxiliary lighting. To many want to just tap into factory wiring. If, you follow his links you will see where doing so smoked some idiot's oem wiring and 80 hrs of trouble shooting later it, was found.
Forgive me for posting a heep related site but, Stu Olson is pretty sharp and if, you ever need to call him, Plan on an hour or so.

If, you like guns, don't let him know, unless it is his dime and you have 2 hours to spare!

[_STUCKY]

If you are adding more than the small light that I added , a relay would be a good idea. It can be activated by the same wire that I used.

I would mount a relay inside the rear frame rail near the tail light wiring. Inside the left rear frame rail there is a white plastic connection. This is the tail lamp wiring.

You can add a maxi fuse to the engine compartment fuse box to energize the rear power distribution stud, then add a wire from there to the rear of your truck to power the lights. Attach this to the relay positive power source (#87)

Tap the light green wire. This is your positive back-up light wire attach it to relay "activate +"(#85)

Ground terminal #86

#30 is where you attach the positive feed for the lights.

"rear power distribution stud"? Who? What? Where? Is that at the rear of the fuse block or the rear of the truck?

I'm planning lights, but unsure on how I'm going to wire them up to the blazer wiper switch.

When that switch is on the "wiper hi", is the "wiper lo" still powered?

Only a few pictures in this thread are still working. I do like the round lights mounted in the bumper. I have a 4.5 inch hole saw from when I put round LED trailer lights in the back of the jeep. My local napa carries round LED clears of the same size.

Also, I have a handful of 5 terminal relays. Are these of any use to me, or should I just get some new 4 terminal ones with the mounting bracket on them ($7)?

[HenryJ]

rear power distribution stud"? Who? What? Where? Is that at the rear of the fuse block or the rear of the truck?

Right rear of the under hood electrical center IIRC. Some already had the maxi fuse energizing it.

Also, I have a handful of 5 terminal relays. Are these of any use to me, or should I just get some new 4 terminal ones with the mounting bracket on them ($7)?

Five terminal are more common. You only use four out of five usually.

[_STUCKY]

I am guessing that you are not referring to the one that I have the red wire hooked to?

[HenryJ]

Nope. That is the supply from the battery. Have a look under the electrical center cover.