Mag-Lite Install Question, Now Bumfuzzled!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:58 am

I'm in the process of installing a Maglite charger. It draws very little amperage. I have ground it but, need a constant hot at the fuse box. I noticed a 20A aux fuse there but that is overkill.

If it is a constant hot, can I use a 2 amp fuse at that location? I could toss an inline fuse on that wire but, want to avoid it.

TIA,

Reed

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:11 am

You can add a fuse to the interior fusebox located in the drivers side of the dash. Or tap the battery at that point.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:17 am

HenryJ wrote:You can add a fuse to the interior fusebox located in the drivers side of the dash. Or tap the battery at that point.

Thanks for the fast answer, Brule. I'll play with my meter and see what I can figure out. I'm mounting it where you have your clamps for the non rechargable mag and pulled the trim and have it at the interior fuse box.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:30 am

If you do not have the connectors available to add a fuse to one of the empty sockets, you can add your wire to one of the open spots on a blade.
Seems like the left side has the battery hot and the right is the ignition hot?
It has been a while , but I have added two fuses to that box, and tapped a hot for the clock.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:54 am

HenryJ wrote:If you do not have the connectors available to add a fuse to one of the empty sockets, you can add your wire to one of the open spots on a blade.
Seems like the left side has the battery hot and the right is the ignition hot?
It has been a while , but I have added two fuses to that box, and tapped a hot for the clock.

It's done. Thanks again, HJ

I just had one open slot. It was on the bottom row, second from the left.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:34 am

I'd rather that you took loose that screw in the bottom right corner, pull down and then out to expose the rear of the fuse panel. There are unused / open connections to attach the wire to. soldering them is the best way to go , but crimping is an option for a low amperage connection.

Run the wire under the sill plate, kick panel and up from underneath the dash. you will find a bolt at the bottom left of the dash, under the lower dash cover the is used as a ground. Then poke the wire up into the back of the fuse panel from just in front of the e-brake mechanism.

When complete the installation should be invisible.

It will take longer and not be nearly as easy, but time well spent.

What you have done will probably work, but shoving wires under the spade of a fuse is a "no-no" in my book

The light looks like it came stock there. Nice job

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:45 am

HenryJ wrote:...shoving wires under the spade of a fuse is a "no-no" in my book ...

That was how I powered my aftermarket fog lights! So they will come on only with the ignition & AHL.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 10:12 am

HenryJ wrote: What you have done will probably work, but shoving wires under the spade of a fuse is a "no-no" in my book

I told my wife when I posted the photo to make note of the time because a scolding would be coming shortly and to see how long it took

HenryJ wrote:
The light looks like it came stock there. Nice job

Thanks, actually the wiring is exactly how you recommended except for the "behind the fuse box". That was a little slack before I tidied it up so all I need to do now is pull the box. I didn't realize it was that easy to pull.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 10:22 am

f9k9 wrote:I told my wife when I posted the photo to make note of the time because a scolding would be coming shortly and to see how long it took

I did count to ten, wait fifteen minutes and then think about how to put it politely

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 11:20 am

f9k9 wrote: I didn't realize it was that easy to pull.

AND.............Wrong!

Mine was built on a Monday............had to be!

Zero slack in wiring but, it's done!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 12:31 pm

Did I say it would be easy?

You're right there is not much if any slack. If I had told you that you might not have even tried it? It can be done as you now know.

Give it a few days to forget what a PITA it was and you'll be back in there adding something else. I did notice that the power seats and perhaps their heaters don't leave you many free places to add fuses.

you only have one free.
I installed a couple to mine for some of the added accessories.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 4:44 pm

reed......at least he brule waited 15 minutes!!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:14 pm

top_sgt wrote:reed......at least he brule waited 15 minutes!!!

I actually won a grilled steak off of Mrs Hoff on the bet. I won't quote her when I made the bet but, I just thought to myself "she hasn't a clue"

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:23 pm

HenryJ wrote:Did I say it would be easy?

You're right there is not much if any slack. If I had told you that you might not have even tried it? It can be done as you now know.

Give it a few days to forget what a PITA it was and you'll be back in there adding something else. I did notice that the power seats and perhaps their heaters don't leave you many free places to add fuses. you only have one free.
I installed a couple to mine for some of the added accessories.

Not this Mrs Hoff's 'lil boy!

Any additional wiring will be done with an aux fuseblock like I did with public service vehicles. I should have went that route when I first tapped into that box on the driver's side front inner fender for the backup lamps

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:34 am

OK, now it has really got me puzzled. I mistakenly thought that the LED was lit yesterday because when I checked it last night it was not charging

I have installed maybe 15 of these over the years without any problems. The chargers have a wire connection that allows you to charge by 120 AC, 12V DC cigarette plug and a third connection that allows you to direct wire in a vehicle.

I pulled everything to check it. All wires are good, the ground is good. I pulled it out , took it inside to check it with the converter I have in the house with that charger and it worked. Took it back to the truck and attached it to the battery's top terminals.......didn't work

I then cut the connection off to eliminate that as a possible cause....didn't work

Checked the top post of the battery and had current. I reattached the connector took it in the house and it worked. I then took the one that has always been in the house and hooked it to the battery and that charger didn't work

I am out of ideas to try

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:42 am

Use a multimeter to test the voltages and polarity. You say it works inside. Check that voltage and confirm which is the positive and negative.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:56 am

Voltage in the house is around 20.55V DC while I am getting a little under 12V off the battery with engine off. Polarity is what the wires are coded for. I knew that there was a difference in voltage earlier. I don't know why there is a difference but the chargers are designed to work in both applications.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:58 am

I did accidently short the contacts on the charger when in the vehicle and the led came on.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 6:00 am

I have 19.95V on the contacts of the charger in the house.

I just downloaded the manual from their site and the output of the converter is supposed to be 12-14v DC.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 6:37 am

So it works with 19+ volts and does not with 12- volts, right?

Start the truck and see if the alternator bumping the voltage to 14+ helps?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 6:50 am

HenryJ wrote:So it works with 19+ volts and does not with 12- volts, right?

Start the truck and see if the alternator bumping the voltage to 14+ helps?

I tried that just before I checked my watch to see how long it was until noon so I could start drinking politically correctly

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:03 am

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:So it works with 19+ volts and does not with 12- volts, right?

Start the truck and see if the alternator bumping the voltage to 14+ helps?
I tried that just before I checked my watch to see how long it was until noon so I could start drinking politically correctly

Okay, I guess that the alternator takes a little while to get up over 14 V because I let it run a little while and I had the LED come on.

Once again Brule saves another soul from becoming a wino street person.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:10 am

I could have saved four and a half hours if I turned the key in the first place.

What should have been a mod that took an hour has now become a weekend endeavor. Top and I did the BL in less time

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:29 am

f9k9 wrote:I could have saved four and a half hours if ...

That time was not wasted. I am sure there are less productive endeavors that could have been taken in the same time.
What do they say aboutidle hands...?