Lights for our roof racks

Modified and aftermarket systems, lights, wiring, etc.

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Lights for our roof racks

Post by F9K9 »

Found this GUY over in ZR2.com. He quoted 6 100w 6' Blazer brand lights to me installed on my rack for $200 to my door. I send him my cross pieces and side rails. I haven't researched "Blazer" lighting yet but, read the thread and make up your own mind on the idea.
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Re: Lights for our roof racks

Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:... I haven't researched "Blazer" lighting yet...

Could these be the lights? Blazer Baja lights
www.k11og.org wrote:Blazer Driving Lights
The Blazer lights are no match for the PIAA's in both function or quality, but for the price they are outstanding. Much like the PIAA's, the Blazers come in several different configurations based upon beam strength and diffusion. Those who own them rave about them, and I have not yet heard a report of a failure...Cost: $40
Blazer lights are carried by K-Mart, Wal-Mart, and most of the nationwide auto parts stores.


How are you getting all that power to them? I don't care for the installs that I have seen so far. And the wiring hanging off the top is not a good install. I can be a little "pickey" about things like that though.

I am not really a fan of lights above the windshield. It lights up too much of the hood and creates glare. You could flat black the hood to help matters, but I like the shiny better ;)

I really don't see $200 here. Buy some Walmart lights yourself. Drill holes on your own rack. Take the time to incorporate the wiring into the bows and down the rails to hide it. Bore a hole into the rack foot to get the wiring into the cab. Do your best to seal it all up.

I bet you can do it for under $150 and have way more fun/satisfaction.

If you can find any of Poconoboss' install information, I liked his job of hiding the wiring on the rack. I still don't care for the loom hanging over the back window though.
I don't like drilling a big hole for wiring in the roof either.
Guess I wouldn't do either, but that is just me :D Find a good clean answer and maybe I'll change my mind.

Do you have a need for all those lights? Don't get hooked on doing the mod just for the sake of having it. Have a purpose or need first. ;)

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Post by top_sgt »

those lights are good for "spotting" deer prior to deer season!!! :lol: (just don't get caught in KY doing it!!)
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Post by F9K9 »

Point well made but, I have no problem drillung holes in roofs "now" :lol:
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Post by top_sgt »

do like the idea of 3-4 lights on top though!!! fiancee says looks good to her!! :D

probably would use KC stainless lights-- no rust!! :D
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:do like the idea of 3-4 lights on top though!!! fiancee says looks good to her!! :D

probably would use KC stainless lights-- no rust!! :D
I love stainless myself but, you aren't driving a short school bus :roflmao:

Stainless is good but I don't need that when I am "toning down" a monster :D

Titanium for me would be a good compromise but, at almost 50 dollars more per pair times 3 = divorce............ :lol:
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Post by top_sgt »

well........ you could use black ones.....then it would look more like a "bumblebee" than a bus!!! :roflmao:

probably less noticable than a school bus!!!(an i being bad here?? :lol: )

seriously though......black light housings would look better on your truck!! 8)
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Post by jeff024 »

while your at it get 1 of those fold out stop signs to mount on the driver door :) :hide:
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:well........ you could use black ones.....then it would look more like a "bumblebee" than a bus!!! :roflmao:

probably less noticable than a school bus!!!(an i being bad here?? :lol: )

seriously though......black light housings would look better on your truck!! 8)
I am sure you know but, "just in case" ...........since you never witnessed my slow attempts at suicide during your BL, Titanium, is a dark grey.

My current Zippo is titanium it is closer to black than most metals. Maybe 4x darker than battleship grey but, that is neither here nor there :lol:
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Post by killian96ss »

Aren't school buses also yellow and black like bumble bees? :lol: Just messin with ya, I would choose black also for the lights. :)
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Post by F9K9 »

killian96ss wrote:Aren't school buses also yellow and black like bumble bees? :lol: Just messin with ya, I would choose black also for the lights. :)
Am unable to find a better deal than THIS on the swing out flashing STOP signs.

Anyone have a better site to look at for prices?

Barch.....are you okay? I am getting a tad worried about you:)
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Post by Eric H »

f9k9 wrote: Am unable to find a better deal than THIS on the swing out flashing STOP signs.

Anyone have a better site to look at for prices?
Here is a site that offers the motor, arm, and LED lit stopsign.

Sorry, I couldn't resist. :hide:

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Post by top_sgt »

my bad on the titanium.....thought it was a lighter color!!! guess either would look good.....but hate to see the big "D" the ti!!! :lol:
understand though!!
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:my bad on the titanium.....thought it was a lighter color!!! guess either would look good.....but hate to see the big "D" the ti!!! :lol:
understand though!!
Image

Image

Same stuff the "Black Bird" (SR-71) is wearing :D
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Post by killian96ss »

f9k9 wrote:Same stuff the "Black Bird" (SR-71) is wearing :D
Yes it is, but can your lighter do Mach 3? :lol:

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Post by barch97 »

I don't know, are those particularly expensive lights that he's mounting for you? otherwise, it seems like he's overcharging and really doing the easy part and then leaving the far more difficult and potentially disasterous task of routing wires into the truck and installing switches and making electrical connections to you. I wouldn't be surprised to see an estimate similar to his for doing the rest of the job.
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Post by barch97 »

Also, cast another vote for black. :D

although I may be biased as I am working on a sandalwood/black theme myself.
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Post by zr2berger »

ok i had to join this site now because i need to defend myslef. You can go ahead and think im charging to much but i will give you the break down on this. The lights are 20.00 a piece x 6 lights with shipping is 120.00, plus the wiring and the loom and other misc connectors is about 150.00. Im chargind 200.00 so that means im making 50.00 and im not even making tht becasue 200.00 also includes the shipping back to the persons door, which is usually around 20-30. So tel me where u can find a better deal at.

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Post by zr2berger »

and i also send easy instructions on the easiest way to wire it up, and its really easy, takes about 30 minutes. anyting else you want to know
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Post by barch97 »

I apologize if my comments offended you. I am by no means an expert in this area but my initial reaction is what I posted. Based on the numbers you've quoted, you're probably losing money on the deal. I did not mean to imply that you were attempting to decieve anyone, just seems like an excessive price for an incomplete installation. Like I said, I'm no expert and have done no research into prices of equipment, required wiring, etc. I could be way off on this.
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Post by zr2berger »

Im glad u see where im coming from. my point it yes im not making alot of money but its a great product and ive sold quite a few and everyone has liked them, but i try to take care of everyone. its not really an incomplete installation becasue u just run 2 or 3 switches wires under the truck to in between the bed and the cab. If u have questions let me know glad to answer
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Post by jeff024 »

way to go guys cant just p*ss people off on this site now youve got them started on others :) :nono: :hide:
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Post by F9K9 »

zr2berger wrote:Im glad u see where im coming from. my point it yes im not making alot of money but its a great product and ive sold quite a few and everyone has liked them, but i try to take care of everyone. its not really an incomplete installation becasue u just run 2 or 3 switches wires under the truck to in between the bed and the cab. If u have questions let me know glad to answer


In defense of ZR2Berger he offers the racks alone and at a good price, will send the racks with lights, without lights, wired for you to install your own lights. regular lights and strobe lights. All are at a good price. :)

I know that the majority of us in this forum aren't into shows so strobes does not come up. As a certified former donut eating "cop", The power pack he is using is top notch (whelen) and they are not cheap. He may be getting them very reasonable because a lot of agencies are going to LED emergency lighting.

As for wiring and drilling holes, I am not squeamish about that. I was my first time when I equipped a new '81 Blazer for antennas and emergency lighting but, no longer :!:

Have done maybe 20 rigs to be on the conservative side. I started out with just an old fashioned double rotating emergency light bar and one radio and my last several had eight function overhead lights, UHF/VHF 2-way radios, docucams (like you see on cops that records the chases and vehicle "stops", spot lights, K-9 temperature alarms (it's August and you are in your local donut shop at 3 PM and the K-9 is in the truck and the AC quits or the motor dies, you partner has mere minutes before his core temperature is over 110 degrees and $9,000 of agency's money, 16 weeks of training that the K-9 spent to train you, along with 2 yrs of making him/her Street smart is gone), and "door poppers" (you are on a vehicle stop and you suddenly become the grass and the motorist you stopped has become the ultimate lawnmower).:lol:
Reach down to your duty belt hit a transmitter that opens your partner's door and suddenly you will be able to go home that night to a sleeping wife or GF once more.

On a stock took rack I'd drill a hole (making sure I already had a black rubber plug that would fit into the drilled hole if I took the lights off) into
the inboard side of one of the driver's side roof attachment points. I would then drill a hole that would be hidden under the mounting braket. Do not remember if our roofs have have a double skin (I set up 2 first gen S-10 blazers for LE work) and I would run the wires under the headliner to the vertical plastic trim between the doors and then under the carpet to the console or along outboard the driver's side.

Having gotten long winded on that and I apologize :!:

We tend to look at stuff pretty hard in this forum but, I try to look at other ones that I see HJ frequents and just try to learn from all. :idea:

It's not that I can't do it myself but, he has something to offer that has already been proven. We all know how it is for a first time "mod". :lol:

I am not crazy about his lights but, a bunch of other people are. I've not attempted to do this before but, I have not commited or ordered a set yet. I may just order the hole drilling and wiring on my stock rack and hope my better half has gotten weary of me talking lights to her and on my B-Day has me send my stuff to Berger and tells me that the titanium lights is a good idea. :D

Anyway, welcome to the site "Berger" ! There is a wealth of knowledge to be gained here if you can overlook this episode and our desire to be crew cab versions of a ZR2 :thumb:
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Post by HenryJ »

zr2berger wrote:ok i had to join this site now because i need to defend myslef. ...
Wow, we found a new way to attract people to the site :lol:

:wave: welcome aboard!

Don't take anything here too seriously, after all it is just the internet. We do like to offer all sides , views and opinions on a given subject. From time to time there are those of us who will even play "the devils advocate" to encourage people to stretch the boundaries and widen the mind.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:
zr2berger wrote:ok i had to join this site now because i need to defend myslef. ...
Wow, we found a new way to attract people to the site :lol:

:wave: welcome aboard!

Don't take anything here too seriously, after all it is just the internet. We do like to offer all sides , views and opinions on a given subject. From time to time there are those of us who will even play "the devils advocate" to encourage people to stretch the boundaries and widen the mind.
Why do member's names like...................... well, like ones that starts with the letters "H" and "B" enter my mind? :lol:
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Post by top_sgt »

welcome zr2berger!!!

like your way of putting the lights on reed... i had thought of running the wiring down the front pillar myself!!!
and this may sound "dumb"...but what is this whelen power pack??? could you just wire the lights up with a relay or two????
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Post by top_sgt »

hey!!!!!! :) found whelen's web site this morning!!!!! now i know...and i "learned" somthing!!! :D
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:welcome zr2berger!!!

like your way of putting the lights on reed... i had thought of running the wiring down the front pillar myself!!!
and this may sound "dumb"...but what is this whelen power pack??? could you just wire the lights up with a relay or two????


The power pack is like a capacitor! Stores up electricity and then let's it out in short big bursts to fire the strobes. Am sure you have heard the sound on the handheld military rescue type strobes.

For those that scoff at the warnings on back of electronics to not remove the cover even if unplugged because of possible electricution. I was a none believer when I was working a Whelen "edge" light bar with the cables off of the battery when I became a believer :lol:

Litterally threw me off the top of a 1990 full size bronco when I made contact with a copacitor :lol:

Image
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Post by top_sgt »

guess that got your attention!! as for myself...been there done that too!!!!it did "hurt" when i landed!!! :lol:
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:guess that got your attention!! as for myself...been there done that too!!!!it did "hurt" when i landed!!! :lol:
Will present a power point lesson for you when we get together :lol:

Now, I can wire all that stuff but as HJ can tell you, basic electricity and simple relays may as well be classified as magic to me :lol:

Heck, they even sent me to technical investigative equipment school at the federal law enforcement training center for 2 weeks and when we had to build our own volt ohm meter the instructor looked over my sholder while I was soldering and simple stated....."Nice welding Wetter". :lol:

Never got the hang of that either :lol:

All I have retained from the training is the "ABCs" of troubleshooting.......antennas, batteries, and connections. :!:
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:welcome zr2berger!!!

like your way of putting the lights on reed... i had thought of running the wiring down the front pillar myself!!!


The front pillar would work with just 3 wires. I just thought between the doors would be a shorter run under the roof liner and less chance of creating a "crease" in the liner. I tried to avoid to much behind the pillar because of spot lights mounted there, the emergency light bar cables are pretty thick and I usually had five coax cables to run (one for the UHF radio, one for the VHF radio, one for the reciever of the wireless microphone worn for the docucam, one for reciever of the K-9 door popper and then the cell phone)
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:...The front pillar would work with just 3 wires. ...
I am a little confused about the three wires?

To run four forward facing 100 watt lights you will need a minimum of 10 ga wire one positive one negative. To run the two rear facing lights you will need two 12ga. wires.

That's four wires minimum If you plan to only run one ground wire it would need to be 8ga for all six lights.

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Post by zr2berger »

theres 5 wires for the light and 4 for the strobes. thanks for all the welcomes
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Post by HenryJ »

Len- Poconoboss from ZR2.com was the first (January of 2002) that I had seen to install a roof rack and add lights to the bows.
Here are some links to the articles and pictures:

aux light question w/roofrack

ImageImageImage

Write-up on how I did the install (Step by step pictures) :thumb:
Poconoboss wrote: I gots a REAL light bar on me truck! :lol:

Front View

Side View

Rear View

Close-Up

Another Close-Up

WRITE UP ON HOW I DID THE INSTALL
He used Eagle Eye lights from Everything Offroad $17.95 each

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Any questions PM Poconoboss on ZR2.com . He is more than happy to answer questions :thumb:
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Mar 05, 2005 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:
f9k9 wrote:...The front pillar would work with just 3 wires. ...
I am a little confused about the three wires?

To run four forward facing 100 watt lights you will need a minimum of 10 ga wire one positive one negative. To run the two rear facing lights you will need two 12ga. wires.

That's four wires minimum If you plan to only run one ground wire it would need to be 8ga for all six lights.


Sorry if the three wire comment became an issue. :(

I just pulled the number out of thin air as an example to compare it to four coax cables, the massive light bar cable and then tossing in a windshield pillar mounted Unity spotlight and it's wiring.
f9k9 wrote:

Now, I can wire all that stuff but as HJ can tell you, basic electricity and simple relays may as well be classified as magic to me :lol:


EDIT.......hmmmmmmm, 6 x $17.95 = $107.70 without shipping. They do offer free shipping with orders over $150. Then wiring, connectors, drilling, threading wiring and shipping to your door . Sounds reasonable to me, I wouldn't do it for $200 if I was bored, serving a life sentence in a prison with access to a machine shop :lol:
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Post by zr2berger »

henry, maybe u need to learn how to read because yes Len did make a light rack for his truck, but the ones i make are 100% different.

edited , Read your PM's -HJ
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:... I wouldn't do it for $200 if I was bored, serving a life sentence in a prison with access to a machine shop...
:lol: Those who can, do. And those who can't pay :D
I have no problem with that. I can't do EVERYTHING myself either :( ...yet ;)

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Post by smokinjoe »

i have always liked this one" those who can do, those who can't teach"
HenryJ wrote:Those who can, do. And those who can't pay :D
I have no problem with that. I can't do EVERYTHING myself either :( ...yet ;)
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Post by SomeCrew »

I am running 2 KC Daylighter 1,000,000 candle power fogs on my brush guard. They are black and have the black and red soft cover.

I have ran many people off the road (forgot they were on), and seeing in the woods is absolutely no problem. Waiting for my light rack for my roof to put 4 more on :)

I have seen a yellow F150 with black brush guard and black fog lights, and it did not look like a bumble bee. It actually looked better to me, than it would if the brush guard and fog lights were chrome.
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Post by RocK »

I just finished my roof rack light bar. Got 4 forward facing lights and will add two facing the rear later. I will try to get some pics on here by tues or wednesday. Its the stock roof rack with all wiring hidden. (that was a pain) 10ga wire everywhere and each light has its own wire that runs to an 8ga wire running through the roof down the front pillar etc. Running a 30 amp fuse (no probs yet). And she looks mean...

My lift is gonna have to wait ... Uncle sam was greedy this year. He snatched away a grand from me. So I'll have to knock off a bank in a couple of weeks. LOL.

Does that sound pretty decent or does anybody think i will have any problems with that setup?
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Re: Lights for our roof racks

Post by kf6kmx »

HenryJ wrote: How are you getting all that power to them? I don't care for the installs that I have seen so far. And the wiring hanging off the top is not a good install. I can be a little "pickey" about things like that though.
I worked on a wiring idea for that a while back.. I'll have to draw it up as a diagram an upload it somehow..
HenryJ wrote: I am not really a fan of lights above the windshield. It lights up too much of the hood and creates glare. You could flat black the hood to help matters, but I like the shiny better ;)
one way I've seen a couple offroad race trucks around here solve the glare is to use light 'visors' upside-down. (like the ones on hot rods and motorcycles). They use the same thing, but under the light, and it shadows the hood area of the truck from the overhead lights. I dont know if they fabricated them themselves or if they located them premade..

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Ah ha... now that I can post pics its all over for yall.

Post by RocK »

Here is my new Light Rack. It allows me to still move the rack forward and backwards as i need to and the lights to the sides can be adjusted for looking straight off the front fenders (for rocks).

-Total Cost =$65.00
-Total Cuss Word = Countless

:D Try running eight 10AWG wires through them dang things. :D

Image

Image

Let me know what ya think.




Thanks...Barch97...
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Re: Ah ha... now that I can post pics its all over for yall

Post by HenryJ »

RocK wrote:...Let me know what ya think...
I think you did a very nice job :thumb:

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Post by top_sgt »

rock...looks good!!!! 8)
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Post by barch97 »

Looks real good :thumb:

10awg wire seems a bit excessive. maybe would have been easier to pull a smaller gauge. those lights can't draw that much, can they?
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Post by Walt »

I have a pair of daylighters similar to SomeCrew. I have the 150 watt models, and I only use 12 guage wire to the battery and ground, so you should be able to get away with one 10 guage wire to four lights without many problems :D
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Post by barch97 »

What's the wattage of those lights? 150?

150w/12v = 12.5 amps

Someone posted a AWG table here a while back but I can't seem to find it at the moment. If I remember correctly, you should be able to run like 14-16 gauge wire to each light and if you want to consolidate them into a single run to the battery, (34 amps) increase to 10-12awg.

Not that using too heavy a wire is going to hurt in this case but, would make it a whole lot easy to pull 16 ga wires through the roof rack bow.
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Post by RocK »

I actually set up the lights using the included wire of 14AWG and the wires got real hot. The 15 amp fuse just started to melt after about 5 min of use. So I figured "safer than sorry" went with 10 and the switch is a 25 amp. I temp'ed it at 110F deg. The lights are 125W and the power is run to the Fuse relay box pos connection.

Thanks for the feedback. Only one person said that they didnt look good and i just think he was jealous. LOL.
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Roof Rack Lights, Air box mod, 31x10.50 BFG Mud Terrains, 2 inch rear spacers, Skidz Fender flares, 2 inch body lift.[/size]
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Re:

Post by ReyesM »

RocK wrote:I actually set up the lights using the included wire of 14AWG and the wires got real hot. The 15 amp fuse just started to melt after about 5 min of use. So I figured "safer than sorry" went with 10 and the switch is a 25 amp. I temp'ed it at 110F deg. The lights are 125W and the power is run to the Fuse relay box pos connection.

Thanks for the feedback. Only one person said that they didnt look good and i just think he was jealous. LOL.
Hi Rock, could you post some pics of the lights installed please? I'm thinking of getting some but not sure how they will look.
Last edited by ReyesM on Wed Oct 27, 2021 12:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Lights for our roof racks

Post by LoneWolf04 »

This was a 12 year old post. May not end up getting a reply. I would suggest either googling some lights mounted on a blazer since they used almost the same rack. Anything recent and you will probably start seeing people just put a light bar up there vs daylighter style lights.