New Pump?? or Wiring Problem????????.

[Torskdoc]

My 02' died a couple weeks ago with the wife driving. She went for a Dr. appt and when ccame out, no start. Cranked fine. Called me and I went over and put the gauge to the test port. ZERO PSI! Towed it home and checked the relay and fuses with a meter. Was getting Battery voltage to the pump side of the relay.

I ordered a Delphi pump (FG0700) with the new connector and pigtail kit. WHAT A PITA to get the tank out. It took less time to change out the one in my 95 Astro Van. (2hrs). After 6 hrs on my back figuring out this jigsaw puzzle I got the tank out and pulled it out. Had a 2 amp 12v power source and connected the pump. It was dead.

Rewired the pigtail as per the instructions (used the 1st color code diagram) (1st color pigtail----> 2nd color wireloom. )
TOP TO BOTTOM Or looking at the WIRE end of the PIGTAIL with the relase catch on top, Right to LEFT

Pigtail------> Wireloom
ORG/Blk---->Blk/wht,
GRY--->GRY,
PPL--->PPL,
Blk----.Blk.

Didn't use the crimp connectors. Stripped each wire back 3/4"", dip in Rosin core flux, twisted together tightly, soldered using 37/63 rosin core solder and 60watt iron, , 2 layers of Marine grade heat shrink tube (stuff with the goo inside), Liquid tape on ends and joints of all heat shrink tubing, and then taped. New Wire loom tubing.

I got the tank up in the truck and hung off the back strap with the front strap started with 2 bolts. The hose fitting for the cap was installed. Then I tried to start it. Put the gauge on the test port. Turned key on and heard relay click. NO PRESSURE. But the Dash gauge works just fine. With approx 4 galllons in the tank it's reading just under 1/4 tank. Got out the meter. Battery voltage on the coil for the relay and across the contacts when energized. Cant get to the pigtail without dropping the tank a few inches. which I'll do tomorrow.

After 6 hours my arthritis, and bad disc were getting bad enough I had to quit. So right now I have no working pump. 3 probable scenarios.
1.) No 12v at the pump.
2.) No ground from the pump to chassis.
3.) Bad pump? (GAWD I HOPE NOT!)
4.) Probably reversed wires to the pump. I don't think this is a possibility as I matched the wire colors on the vehicle to the pamphlet wiring diagrams, and ruled out 3 of the 4. The wire colors above are as written in the pamphlet.

Any one have an idea where exactly the GROUND WIRE connects either to the chassis or where the ground point is for it. If I have a bad ground, I'll probably just run a new ground wire to the back corner of the frame where the lighting all grounds at Or find a small screw/bolt on the frame close by that I can connect to with a LARGE crimp connector (closed circle type) soldered to the wire.

I'll get out in the morning with my meter and test light and drop the tank enough to get to the connectors and start testing for voltage and continuity. Hope it's something simple.

And this WILL BE the LAST PUMP I change on a CrewCab. I'll let the wife pay for it next time, but I'll get the part from ROCK AUTO again. Ordered at 10:26am on Wednesday and on my front parch 11:18 the next day. And I paid for the cheap shipping. $181.and change incl shipping for a DELPHI FG0070 PUMP. Advance and Autozone want $275. and $295. for the same part.

[roadrunner]

Sorry to hear of your troubles and paying so much for a pump. I have one listed here on this site for much less and it's brand new never installed with pigtail kit as well. 1 Delphi fuel pump (FG0070) with wire harness fits 97-02 w/steel tank. $50.00 Not to add insult to injury but my ad also says I pay the shipping to lower 48. I guess I was too cheap. Nobody seems to want any of the parts even though priced below what they cost me plus I had to pay the shipping I'm willing to pay to send them to needy users.

[HenryJ]

Check for and clear any codes.

Long story - short. Just went through an identical problem with the neighbor kids 2001 2500 silverado last night. Replaced pump , tried passlock relearn. Turns out some where in the process a code for low voltage to the TPS was set preventing the fuel pump from pressuring up. Weird. Cleared the codes and it fired right up.

[Torskdoc]

No codes showing on the SEL or on my analyzer.

Pulled the tank back down this AM. Disconnected the pigtail from the tank and metered it out with a DMM. I get 12.3V on the Pump supply, and 5.v on the gauge. The grounds show as 3ohms and 5 ohms.

Connected up the meter to the pigtail on 12v to pump positive. Turned on key and had wife cycle the RELAY fuse to kick the fuse in and out. The Relay kicks in and stays in for about 4 seconds and then shuts off. Get 12v when the relay is in and 0v when relay kicks out. I pulled the pump out and jumpered it from my bench 12v supply. The pump works. Matter of fact both work. But I had broke off the hose mounts on the old one so it goes.

I just went out and checked codes again. Get a 0452 "Evap system pres low". Which IIRC just means that the tank is open. Ignored it for future deletion. While I had the pump out of the tank I plugged it in to the pigtail and turned the key. SUMBITCH WORKS. I'm gonna put it in the tank and cycle the key on each step of reinstall. If it stops after a step then I'll know where it's screwing up.

What a mess. Arthritis is really acting up today. So it might be tomorrow before I get it all done.

I'll be back with final results.

RR: No problem on the cost of the pump. 3 years ago they were over $400 locally @ Advance and Autozone. I now shop @ RockAuto for all the expensive parts now. (anything over $50.00) My '95 Jimmy needs a new front main seal and good thing it has a plastic front cover. Just replace the cover. It has new seal and all gaskets. $21.00 + shipping @ Rock. Too damned much @ Advance and autozone.

[Torskdoc]

BOY DO I FEEL LIKE A DUMB s###! (See next to last para!) OLD AGE isn't creeping up on me, it's blindsided me!

After testing the pump outside of the tank, I put it in the tank and tested it before I hooked everything else up. WORKED FINE.

Mounted the hoses, hung the tank on the front hanger (WHO THE F___ designed this hanger setup????) and tested it again (wife turning the key while I felt for pump vibration in tank). ALL OK.

Ten gallons of Gas put in tank. Crank the engine. ZIP, NADA, NOT A DAMN THING. WTF???? Take the pressure gauge off the pressure line and look at the gauge and hose. Missing the pin to trip the schrader on the pressure line. So I manually tripped the schrader valve. Got Fuel (a lot of it.) Obviously the pump is running but the engine ain't. Have I got spark??? I go to pull the wire off the coil and the whole thing came off. apparently the cap side of the coil wire came loose and VOI'LA! NO START mimicking a bad pump. I tested it at the site of the breakdown with the pressure gauge and I know for a fact it had the pin in the end at that time. It fell out sometime between then and now.

So it's FIXED, on all 4 and running. Moral of story???!!!?!!?! Check all 3 sides of the fire triangle before putting down good $$$$. (It needed one anyway (good excuse to get one in front of the bank (wife))).


I'm gonna take a bottle of Aspirin, some Oxycodone and change the Fentanyl patch. I'm hurting.

Thanks All for the comments and the ideas. Gotta tighten a couple things yet but I can do that tomorrow!

Larry

[Torskdoc]

Finished it up this morning,(installed a new inline filter also) and filled it up completely. Drove up to Harbor Freight and got another test gauge kit. So everything on the fuel system except the tank and the lines are new. should last another 86K miles or 14 years which ever comes 1st.

Pressures as follows'

1.) turn on ignition .....59psi.
2.) Turn engine ON......61psi.
3.) Blip throttle Hard.....drops to 54 and rebounds right back to 61.
4.) prime gauge to 59 and let sit for 1/2 hour.......final reading 58.
5.) dropped to 10 psi and let sit for 1 hour. NO DROP.

System is tight, no leaks, drips, sprays, etc. The 0452 code dropped off the face of the earth after filling it up and running for 10 minutes. Codes cleared, checked with plug in analyzer. Everything within normal limits.

Now to replace the front main seal on the 95 Jimmy. Hoo-Boy!

[_STUCKY]

Bump!

03-04 has a plastic tank and takes a different pump. For better or for worse, I ordered:

Delphi fg0432

110$ difference between napa and amazon.

[_STUCKY]

I replaced my pump around January. About 2 months ago I put the truck on the hoist and took both front and rear suspension and axles out for new spring bushings (axle swapped truck). Finally got everything put back together, and the fuel pump is dead. Before I buy a new one, I’ll probably take the tank out and whack the pump with a rubber mallet and see what happens.

Thoughts?

[Horsehammerr]

Replaced my Second Pump Feb 2, 2010 , 140,000 miles . Hitting 203,000 now and that same pump is still going strong ! I think the big difference is that pump came with upgraded gauge wiring connector harness . Not a big problem to solder in and would recommend this to others.

[_STUCKY]

Well I dropped the tank the other day, broke one of the vacuum lines or vent lines, whatever they are, that go from the vents to the fuel pump and the charcoal canister deal behind the tank. Still waiting on barbed hose fitting to get everything back together.

But I ordered another pump from Napa, went to put it in yesterday. No power to it. Huh weird must be a problem somewhere else. Start looking around, and see nothing. Plug old pump in (the one I used in January) and it works. Huh weird. Plug in new pump, it works. Huh weird. Plug in old pump again, still works. Ok whatever. I have no idea what was wrong. I *think* it just seized up from being parked and me shaking things around taking the tank out fixed it. Will be another week or so before I have the barbed fitting and time to put everything together. Stupid truck haha

[_STUCKY]

Alright I’m thoroughly confused as to why my truck will not start. Tank on floor with wires hooked up, the pump will run. Mount the tank and it won’t pump. I’m thinking it’s a ground issue now.

[_STUCKY]

Well I have the truck running. I feel silly for what was wrong. Check the simple things first. Then check them again.

When I took my truck apart for new spring bushings, I took the 3 ground wires off the frame behind the drivers side leaf spring shackle. Apparently I didn’t tighten that bolt back up.

So that made the truck run. Went for gas, went home. Couple hours later I had to go to town. Kept dying at stops and didn’t want to idle. First thought was well my battery needs replaced. Plan was have my buddy jump start me to get home. Well when we went to jump it, I immediately noticed my battery cables weren’t tight either.

Truck seems to be running great.

I r dum