My BIG Crew for sale :(

[cellardoor420]

So I'm panning a big trip on some motorcycles and sadly need to get rid of the beast. I have put almost double into it of what I'm asking. It runs and rides perfectly and handles well compared to what I've heard from other big crew drivers.. It has been so much fun to build and use. It has everything from heated leather seats and cold AC to all the best aftermarket offroad goodies imaginable. Was about to do the 6ft bed, brazilian snorkel, and steel gas tank mods but sadly it has to go now.

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/5548025138.html


Problems:
Gas tank leaks out the top when full, throws a vaccum leak code every so often
Heater is weak
Could use new CV axles or just the boots
Small oil leak, oil drain plug needs to be coated with sealant when installed and I forgot to do it last oil change when I put a new magnetic drain plug in.
Passenger air bag light is on sometimes
Cosmetic dents in body

Good stuff:
Built this beast to go anywhere. 100s of hours and over $15,000 invested. See list of aftermarket stuff below. Automatic 4.3L v6 has no problems, tons of power, takes off fast, and gets about 17mpg. This truck can mud, rock crawl, ford rivers, drag race, or just be a daily driver. Has a power programmer that allows you to adjust shift points for your use, and reset the instruments to match the oversize wheels and axle. Clean Texas title in my name.

Interior is near perfect, all leather seats, heated seats, wood grain panels, dark tint, stereo has tape, cd, aux cord, AM/FM, 3 power outlets, stock steering wheel radio controls, heated mirrors, stock trip computer with mpg, range, compass, trip odos, etc.. AC works great, heater is weak but heated seats make up for it.

List of Mods/aftermarket parts:
6" Superlift FIT - new
2" Performance Accessories body lift - new
2" rear shackles - new
Hypertech power programmer - new
Magnaflow dual exhaust with 2" pipes - new
Boise Spring Kit - new
35" x 12.5" BFGs - new
15" x 8" Corvette alumnum rims - plastic dipped
Goodrich steel brake lines (new, custom extended +6". these are awesome) - new
3" wheel spacers up front, 1.5" spacers rear (tread width 77" front and back) - new
bilstein shocks all around - new
superlift steering stabilizer - new
flaming eagle stainless steel u-joint - new - replaces weak rag joint
full size bump stops - new
all polyurethane bushings (control arms, sway bar, steering links, leaf springs) - new
Moser rear differential cover - new
ZR2 rear axle
ZR2 fender flares
ZR2 skid plates shields (light weight fiberglass)
Swiss Cheese air box mod with new K&N hi-flo filter
relocated IAT
Shaved throttle blade
190* thermostat - new. dexcool removed permanently
Additional Transmission cooler - new
vacuum solenoid upgrade - new
Performance Accessories body lift gap guards - new
billit grill - new
overhead console with trip comp
auto dim mirror - new
power windows and locks
remote locks
luxury sun visors - new
heated leather seats
3 power outlets
steering wheel radio controls
Oversize aluminum radiator - new
HD oil lines - new
heavy duty tie rods and ends with poly grease boots - new
new rear axle shafts, bearings, seals
new ball joints
new stator
new alternator
new coils
new plugs
new belt
new idler pulley
bed liner

and more I'm forgetting I'm sure

[Built2Bend]

Wish I had the money for it.
But I hope you don't mind a quick question. How did you get the zr2 rear flairs to fit?

[cellardoor420]

It was pretty difficult. I started out with the how to from this site. Basically I used the fenders as stencils and cut away any extra metal on the bed, marked and drilled the holes for the screws, and then drilled 1.5" holes in the wheel well of the bed to access where the fender screws would come through and mount. Then attached and tightened it. Afterwards I plugged the big holes I drilled with rubber caps after the fender was bolted on. (if you pull a pair of zr2 fenders from a zr2 you will see they are attached in a similar way) As for the shape mismatch of the bed vs the fenders, once the fender screws are tightened it conforms to the bed shape, and if you measure and cut very carefully there will be small to no gaps. My biggest gap is 1/8" just below the pointy part of the fender on the rear end of both fenders. The front of the fenders and front screws on both fenders extend forward past the bed just over the edge into the gap between bed and cab and the screw is not attached to anything, but was so close that the threads have dug into the paint and hold it there. I drilled holes in the inner fender wheel well wall on each fender and have zip ties holding my fenders to front the bed support struts in the wheel well on both sides to keep it extra tight to the bed.

They were such a pain to install that I always figured I would never fix them if a branch or rock ripped em off, but that hasn't happened yet and they are great for keeping the mud from flying in my windows!