S-10CREWCAB.NET

I did mine at about 80,000 miles. I think it was just the seals; bearings still felt good. Definitely get the tool that separates the fan from the pump. I've heard that AutoZone will rent the tool. Other things to look out for is getting the seals aligned properly when you bolt on the new pump. You ...

[ Is this what you used? http://www.toolweb.com/pics/KTI70312.jpg Yes - there's an indentation in the "arm" thingie that's perpendicular to the bar, the center of the puller goes there, and the jaws latch onto the frame member, if I remember correctly (been about 5 years since I did it...couldn't l...

HenryJ wrote:The GM torsion bar unloading tool is a must.

I unloaded the torsion bar on my '96 Sonoma with a $10 2-jaw puller tool, which worked perfectly. How is the GM tool different?

wamason wrote:Other than that, I agree, taping in to an existing acc wire is the best way to go.

You'll also want to include a small inline fuse with the turn-on lead. Maybe a 1-amp fuse, something like this:

Inline Fuse

The motor's not that bad to replace if you have to. I got a replacement from Autozone, maybe $30 which included the fan. I've also had to replace the fan switch resistor when the lower two fan speeds stopped working ('96 Sonoma). It's even easier to replace - under the hood near the fan.

It's called an Event Data Recorder. I posted this on the S-series.org site awhile back after reading about it in the local newspaper. Based on the list of vehicles, it appears that most late model S-series vehicles have them.

Thanks, Chris. The folk s at ZR2.com mentioned this site, thought I'd see what was happening over here.

Try HERE first. They make all kinds of accessories for what you're looking for.

Any way to tell which purple wire does the cruise and then just cut and splice the other one? Yes...cut one wire, then go for a drive and see if your cruise control still works :lol: Actually, that's just what I did and guessed right the first time. Here's what it looked like in the harness: http:/...