What did you do to your Crew today?

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:45 pm

Replaced the front & rear door speakers w/ infinity 6022i & the speakers w/ poll db461.

Serge PETIT · Post by **Serge PETIT** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:07 am

And the result is ?
I am paying attention to such changes .

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Fri Aug 16, 2013 7:35 am

I haven't put them through the paces yet.
I only hook up the factory radio long enough to verify that each speaker is working.
I had dead speakers.
But sounded good so far w/o adjustments.

Serge PETIT · Post by **Serge PETIT** » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:01 am

So I will be patient !!!

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:28 am

In the past week I have: flushed the dex-cool, replaced the t-stat, replaced the heater core (wasn't leaking), did a bravada dash swap.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:56 pm

Bravada dash swap? Pics?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:10 pm

yea, curious to see whats different. I want to do some swapping out of some panels in my cab to break up the interior blandness a little bit. I dont want the woodgrain stuff I would like to try and find something thats maybe brushed aluminum

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:37 am

Sorry, its mis-leading.
I did a double din dash swap from a bravada.
To the naked eye its the same dash.
All bravadas are double din.
Only mid 02+ s10, sonoma, blazer, jimmy are double din.
I used the harness from truck w/ the dash & bezel from the bravada

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:59 pm

Ah ok so you just did a double din swap so that you can install a double din head unit.

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:41 pm

Yes,
I was pulling it anyways to do the heater core, so in the end I was saving time.
I actually got the dash last Feb, was just waiting for the right time to do it.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Sep 21, 2013 2:40 pm

This came in the mail for mine today.

If anyone does not get it, heres some ASCII art for you.
http://www.razaodiada.orconhosting.net. ... erfall.gif

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 7:54 pm

Replaced the seized parking cables, along with the parking shoes with hardware while I was back there. And just to let anyone know, do not bother with aftermarket cables. The driver's side one has an incorrect end on it. It is too big to fit through the mounting bracket and then the hole is too small to accept the lever that pushes on the shoes. Tried both Advance and Autozone, they use the same distributer even though Autozone is branded Duralast. Bought ACDelco cables and they were correct. As far as the shoes, get the ACDelco kit replacements as well. The kit was almost half the price as just the shoes at parts store and it came with everything, all new hardware. You also cannot get the rubber boot that helps keep water out of the lever any other way than the ACDelco kit.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 4:09 am

Where did you get your AC Delco kit from? My parking brake is currently inoperable because of a stretched cable, im glad i read this here first!

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:17 pm

replaced the broken tilt lever on the passenger seat

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:43 pm

blew the pinion bearing in the rear end

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:45 pm

Put a corvette servo in the trans. It really goooooes now. Much better feel for all that V8 power.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:29 am

Since you have a V8 now, I highly recommend installing a Transgo shift kit for the 4L60E. It takes 3-6 hrs to install, but is well worth it if you want that V6 calibrated transmission to last very long.

Steve

okaussie · Post by **okaussie** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:35 am

I put a Badlands 12000lb winch on the front of my CC a couple of weeks ago. Bought the wireless remote too. Have yet to try it out. Had to modify the mounting plate to fit my Westin BrushGuard, cow catcher on the front. Can't wait to try it out this winter..

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:55 am

Which wireless remote did you get? I have been looking at a few, but never pulled the trigger on one. There are some very affordable solutions out there. I worry a little bit about lag and connectivity issues. Thus far the cable control has served me well. Get a good one though. The pistol grip trigger control that I have works great. The old push button one that came with the milemarker is not good.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:14 pm

killian96ss wrote:Since you have a V8 now, I highly recommend installing a Transgo shift kit for the 4L60E. It takes 3-6 hrs to install, but is well worth it if you want that V6 calibrated transmission to last very long.

Steve

Interesting because my buddy who did the install said I shouldnt do the shift kit and the servo. Either do one or the other. Since the servo has been installed it drives perfectly now. It works exactly how I would like it to.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Nov 16, 2013 6:54 am

okaussie wrote:I put a Badlands 12000lb winch on the front of my CC a couple of weeks ago. Bought the wireless remote too. Have yet to try it out. Had to modify the mounting plate to fit my Westin BrushGuard, cow catcher on the front. Can't wait to try it out this winter..

What mounting plate did you use? Any pics of the process or final result? We all like purdy pictures.

okaussie · Post by **okaussie** » Sat Nov 16, 2013 7:22 am

_Stucky,,,

Got the wireless remote at Harbor Freight along with the winch and the mounting plate. I will only plug it in when I am going to use it. That is a hot commodity here and they get stolen alot. Therefore I will keep inside the cab until needed. The Mounting plate also came from there too. I will try to post some pics in the near future. It had to be mounted upside down due to the configuration of the brush guard. Also got a cover off Ebay for about $13 with free postage. Works like a champ. Am anxious to put the winch to the test. Will see how it works..

Bill

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Nov 17, 2013 1:58 pm

Got some cool new headlights and turn signals for it. These are very nice. If you want to buy better headlights for your truck make sure you go with the eagle eyes brand. Its still made in Taiwan but these are much much better quality than all of the run of the mill eBay junk. The turn signals were kind of generic but they actually have a lot more LEDs than the auctions show. There is a second row under the top row facing straight down in to a curved reflector. These are very bright at night for signaling and makes the truck look a bit more aggressive at night I think.

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:45 pm

bought an 02 Sonoma base crew cab parts truck

okaussie · Post by **okaussie** » Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:29 am

Took some clothes hanger wire and modd'ed the vanity covers in my 02 CC. The plastic pieces were broken on both sides. Replaced them with a piece of metal clothes hanger, super glued them to the plastic cover, and replaced all four of the lamps. Looks good and now is functional again. The wife really likes them.

BTW, still waiting for better weather to show all of you pics from my winch install last month, so stay tuned..

Bill

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:55 pm

Actually did something interesting today. First, my wipers were driving me nuts so I finally did the wiper fix, then I also aligned my new headlights I bought a month ago. I found that all they were good for was blinding other drivers and keeping me from seeing anything I actually needed to see on the road. So using the two vehicles I own, I drove my GTI up to the end of the parking lot that faces the fence in my town house place (we have a lot nobody really uses, everyone has driveways) Parked the VW and left the parking lights on and then drove the truck up behind it and backed it up until i could see the interior of the VW all lit up from the truck. I took a cardboard box and covered up one light at a time and lowered them till they were below the rear windshield of the VW, then I sat in the VW to see how it looked. Better, but still bright. I turned on the VWs headlights and then drove the truck up next to it. I lined them up best I could nose to nose. The lights were still just a tad high, the pass side was a bit more than the driver. Lined them up with where the cutoff lines were on the VW, backed the truck back up to where it was behind the car and checked again. Sitting in the VW it looked great. Sitting in the truck I could see everything.

So thats how you can really check to see your headlights are aligned properly, if you have access to two cars! Preferably one thats not another truck of course.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:41 am

You can also use our guide: Aiming Headlights

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:27 am

I would have but the only wall I have that I can drive right up to is my garage door and the car sized driveway to it is uphill, and 25 feet back is in a bowl. I used that method to try and align them last time and ended up with too high lol. The parking lot is flat but theres about 20 feet of grass between the curb and the fence and the grass is uphill too. Oh well.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Feb 04, 2014 2:09 pm

ApproachMedium wrote:Where did you get your AC Delco kit from? My parking brake is currently inoperable because of a stretched cable, im glad i read this here first!

Sorry for the late reply, haven't been on in a long time. Got all my AC Delco parts off amazon.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:34 pm

Awesome thanks

Changed the oil in it today. Got a Tech 2 for it a week ago but now my pins are so bent in my OBDII connector on the truck, it wont communicate. Still communicates with other trucks so i know its not my tech 2. What a fun toy it is though!

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:59 am

Woke up to a foot of snow Thursday morning, started to take the wife to work and guess what no 4wd. I've known that I needed to change the transfer case shift motor for a few years, but have put it off for one reason or another. Well I finally bit the bullet ant bought a reman shift motor and borrowed a garage (called in a couple of favors) and replaced the motor. Still no 4wd, after further checking, found the fuse in the underhood fuse box had blown. replaced the fuse and cleared the codes and 4hi, 4lo and back to 2hi with no problems. Looking back, I regret not having done this repair before. Now just to get the money and parts for the intake and a few other odds and ends.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:46 pm

Probably was blown from the bad encoder motor.

In other news, having fun parking mine in all of this mess of snow in NJ.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 6:37 am

That was my guess. How much snow did you get? We got a total of 18-20 in. here.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:13 am

Well last week we got well over a foot in one day, split across two different "sessions" Then we got a few more inches sat, before all of that there was some other bunch of snow storms. I basically have not seen the grass since New years. The snow just keeps hitting us every week.

In the photo of my parked truck was where my VW got parked during the storm so my roomies GF could use the garage for her brand new Lexus. After they initially plowed and stuff you could only tell the VW was parked there from the angle of where i was standing when i took the photo of the truck above lol. It was pretty bad. We are supposed to get one 50 degree day this week that should melt some of it off but more snow after this next weekend!

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:19 pm

I have recently been doing a bunch of little stuff to my truck the last couple weeks in prep for my new rims and tires to come!
I didn't have the pics uploaded from the camera the to post them day for day so I will start off with the first one!

Took the grille apart...

Put my billet grille on that was sitting in the closet for the last 6 months!

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Mon Apr 14, 2014 3:24 pm

Got those old stock shocks replaced with some almost new gas ones off a wrecked blazer, they have under 500 miles on them.

new ones!

These old ones with 138K miles needed to go, one bolt was seized so we had to do an operation

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:33 pm

Great stuff. Looking good

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:28 pm

Thanks henryJ!

Got my 1.25" spacers installed in the rear, and changed my coolant sensor - that made a mess

Then I put back on my roll up cover on, it's nice to see out the back window again!

I just bought those 6 ton jack stands and the 3 ton jack a couple weeks ago, it is just sooo nice to have jack, I can fix anything now!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:22 pm

Looks good!

FINALLY getting a ZR2 axle for my crew. Been trying to drive the GTI now that the weather is warmer. With all the driving I do the truck is killing me on the gas on around town driving. The little VW is much better for that. The warm weather has been here for the last week but now tonight its supposed to get cold and SNOW!

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 5:44 pm

^ I really like your ride approachmedium, those 30" tires look great on the zr5 rims, I was going to go with 30" tires but I could not bring myself to trim the fenders.

This morning I cranked my torsion bars up around 1.5" and then drove to work and home to let them settle, they still were around 1.4" so I decranked them down to right above the 1.25"and did a bunch of circles in the road - around and around I went, the neighborhood probably thinks I am crazy

- all I have to do now is get my 1.5" lift shackles in, long story short the pair that were coming never did, so after emailing the seller, ebay gave me all my money back so now a different set is on the way, it's a good set not a cheapo version!

with the TB crank!

Then I loaded up the pickup with my new rims, lugs and valve stems, tomorrow is the big day, my new rims and new tires are going on with an alignment of course!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 6:00 pm

Thanks! I did not need to do any cutting to add the 30 inch tires. All i had to do was a 2 inch body lift, and nothing rubs anything.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:19 pm

yah, but all I have is TB crank and my new 4.25" backspaced rims are not helping that out, I had the truck up on the jack with the wheels at full lock and it was just too close, I know it would rub the fenders, plus I like the "high" look with small tires - I guess I'm just weird

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:55 pm

Looking good. Looks like my Sonoma's twin.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:56 pm

LMs10CrewCab wrote:yah, but all I have is TB crank and my new 4.25" backspaced rims are not helping that out, I had the truck up on the jack with the wheels at full lock and it was just too close, I know it would rub the fenders, plus I like the "high" look with small tires - I guess I'm just weird

Forget the TB crank lol, do the body lift. Its worth it. No excessive stresses on the ball joints which suck enough with these trucks. I thought I was going to hate it. Im running the stock ZR5 wheels as you can see with the 30 inch tires. With the lift it looks a lot better. No other height modifications have been made to my truck other than that. I decided to go that route over modifying the suspension since the body lift was sorta necessary for the V8 swap to make installation and service easier, and i dislike the idea of messing with the torsen bars or anything that may cause alignment issues. I had a bad experience with them when I tried some 2wd wheels on it a while back that stuck out too far hitting everything.

Im trying to save some cash up to have all my front bushings replaced, which I will then install the ZR-2 front torsen bars.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:03 pm

Well today I took in my truck to get new tires and rims!

Long story short they mounted and balanced my new rims on the new tires, then they went to put them on and they rubbed the calipers so they put washers behind the rims and it did not help much, so they realized the truck needed the alignment so they saw the small torsion crank I did, so the guy de-cranked my torsion bars all the way down 1/2" lower than stock, put the rims on felt them rub when backing out, so he pulled into the shop and put the old rims and tires back on and gave me a call "come pick it up"

So after I got home I put 5/8 spacers in the front to stop the caliper rub, the rear has the 1.25" spacers so I didn't need them back there, then I figured out the rub was from the front mudflaps so I pulled them off and I am now rocking on cragars!
Keep in mind my front end right now is 1/2" lower than stock
I am going to do do a balljoint flip, lift it back up around 1" above stock and they are going to re align it....

These new cooper discoverer at3's have really cool sidewall patterns!

Also I just want to give a big thanks to everyone on here, this was the first truck forum I ever joined, and you all always answered my questions, stupid or not and gave me the push to complete this truck the way I always wanted it - much obliged!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:07 pm

You are welcome. It looks great. Even has the center caps, i love it. I can see right now though where that front tire is going to rub the fender and bumper when you turn though. Mine did it before.

Lucky you, you have the rear spash guards too. I need them for mine because with all that V8 power and everything, i keep chipping the paint on my new bed with debris lol.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:52 pm

thanks for the feedback! I'm going to get this shackle lift in really soon, then the front is going up, looks like I have a lowered truck for the next week lol!
I have yet to see it rub there but thanks for the heads up I will keep my eye on it. Next project is replacing the front wheel bearing assembly, the guy at the tire shop said it is absolutely shot, he said "couldn't you hear the whining" I thought it was from my old tires, they were worn uneven, plus it's been so cold I still am running the heater... On full! After I lift it up a bit more I will hopefully be able to fit my front mudflaps back in there!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:57 pm

Do yourself a favor, if on wheel bearing is bad change them both. Once you change the one, about a week or two later the other will start to humm too. Its happened on my last two trucks and both of my buddies blazers I bought for him.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:06 pm

Ok, thanks for the quick tip, those things are kinda expensive, at least it comes as full kit so I don't have to press any bearings in.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:26 pm

Not a hard job, just a little daunting if you haven't done it before.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:13 pm

today I gave the interior of my truck a little love!
I got it so clean you could eat off the carpet

for being over 13 years old this interior is still in wonderful shape, I used my carpet vacuum's hose accessories, it is about 3x more powerful than the little stanley plus it already has a 30 foot extension cord! I also used orange wipes on all the plastic too.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:21 am

Looks wonderful!

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:33 am

looks good

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:55 pm

^^ first thanks henryJ and mars for the compliments!

ApproachMedium wrote:
LMs10CrewCab wrote:yah, but all I have is TB crank and my new 4.25" backspaced rims are not helping that out, I had the truck up on the jack with the wheels at full lock and it was just too close, I know it would rub the fenders, plus I like the "high" look with small tires - I guess I'm just weird
Forget the TB crank lol, do the body lift. Its worth it. No excessive stresses on the ball joints which suck enough with these trucks. I thought I was going to hate it. Im running the stock ZR5 wheels as you can see with the 30 inch tires. With the lift it looks a lot better. No other height modifications have been made to my truck other than that. I decided to go that route over modifying the suspension since the body lift was sorta necessary for the V8 swap to make installation and service easier, and i dislike the idea of messing with the torsion bars or anything that may cause alignment issues. I had a bad experience with them when I tried some 2wd wheels on it a while back that stuck out too far hitting everything.

Im trying to save some cash up to have all my front bushings replaced, which I will then install the ZR-2 front torsen bars.

Second, sorry I never saw your post here until now, I really don't want to crank my TB bars really, but I am really scared to do a body lift as I am pretty sure that I will break a body mount bolt or two as they look pretty rusty, and that would mean SERIOUS surgery to my poor ride!
But thanks for reminding me to PB blast them and see if they turn or not!
I work with the handicapped so I really only want to push 1.5" rear and 1" to 1.25" front, but if I could get the body lift in I would probably just leave the front end lowered to counteract the lift height - and to make the tires not look too small!
Also I am pretty happy that these tires are not rubbing anywhere, I had the wheels at full lock, jacked one side of the truck and kept checking but for now I have over 1/4" of space still left to spare!

And today I installed some Bravada knobs I bought off a guy over on the s10 forum!

They look much better than the old ones, but I will have to get used to them now as I have to turn them with two fingers!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:15 pm

LMs10CrewCab wrote:

They look much better than the old ones, but I will have to get used to them now as I have to turn them with two fingers!

These look good but I always liked the other ones better, for the reason you said above lol. I can turn them with one finger, also the "truck" ones are easier to work with gloves on I think.

mars2878 · Post by **mars2878** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:25 pm

I have those, including the bravada wind switch plates

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:53 pm

Your truck is looking good. I kinda wishing I'd have found some center caps. My gpa's truck has a set... Must inquire again about them tomorrow...

As far as body lift vs torsion bars. I'm also not a fan of body lifts for the same reason you said, rust. I've never had any luck trying to turn body mount bolts out. They always spin. That made my k5 a nightmare when I put body mounts on it, and on the jeep, I broke the first one I tried to get out and just gave up right there. No need to break them all. Ended up cutting a hole in the floor and drilling it out and just putting a bolt and a nut back on it. I hate rusty body mounts haha

Also, I think you are going to rub the plastic nonsense on the bottom of the bumper. I thought mine was good too, and it ended up getting a good crack in it, so I cut it off. I've probably posted a picture since then on here somewhere.

I do agree that you may as well change both bearing if you need 1. As for the caliper rubbing, mine did the same thing. A grinder with a flap wheel on it cured that.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:19 am

_STUCKY wrote:Your truck is looking good. I kinda wishing I'd have found some center caps. My gpa's truck has a set... Must inquire again about them tomorrow...

As far as body lift vs torsion bars. I'm also not a fan of body lifts for the same reason you said, rust. I've never had any luck trying to turn body mount bolts out. They always spin. That made my k5 a nightmare when I put body mounts on it, and on the jeep, I broke the first one I tried to get out and just gave up right there. No need to break them all. Ended up cutting a hole in the floor and drilling it out and just putting a bolt and a nut back on it. I hate rusty body mounts haha

Also, I think you are going to rub the plastic nonsense on the bottom of the bumper. I thought mine was good too, and it ended up getting a good crack in it, so I cut it off. I've probably posted a picture since then on here somewhere.

I do agree that you may as well change both bearing if you need 1. As for the caliper rubbing, mine did the same thing. A grinder with a flap wheel on it cured that.

Thanks! I just put some 5/8" spacers on the front and everything is good now!
Just right now I ordered two Moog wheel bearing hub assembly from summit racing, I had a $40 gift certificate because one rim had a little lip bend in it, I still can't believe these companies ship rims without any packaging in two empty boxes! So the total came to $150 for both wheel bearings, not too bad...
My shackles are coming today and hopefully by next week my truck with be around 1" higher than stock in front and 1.25" rear - yah my rear is sagging lol!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:15 am

I guess I got really lucky, at 260k and my truck being from NJ which isnt known for the cleanest trucks, (PA is worse) I dont think we had any problems getting any of the bolts out. I didnt do them myself but I was there when it happened. I dont recall there being any snags. Hell before I knew it, it was done lol..

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:16 pm

well today I finally finished installing my passenger side wheel bearing assembly! This is how it went...

Started last night, after 3 hours of working, we worked on trying to free the rotor from the assembly but it was "welded" together, we slowly tried to beat it out with the back with the rubber mallet, as you can see in this pic the old assembly started splitting in the middle.

So I made a thread on the other forum at 11 at night and this guy told me to try to put a block of wood between the frame and wheel with the bolts still removed from the assembly, this morning I tried it and... POP!

Finally got the rotor separated from the assembly, it took over 9 hits with the back of the ax!

Pic of everything removed!

Here is my new replacement, a Moog one from summit racing.

Finally back on all fours lol!

It is so nice to not hear that whining, here I thought it was from my old un-even uniroyals with over 50K miles, tomorrow I attempt the other side!

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sun Jun 08, 2014 2:08 pm

I replaced my rotor and cap, the holes where the cap screws go into cracked so had to bolt it in the back and zip tied it for extra measure.
Also painted my rear bumper pads, they look like brand new now!

crews10 · Post by **crews10** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:03 am

I did absolutely nothing. Looked at it and thought to myself "you need a bath"

MCbowhunter · Post by **MCbowhunter** » Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:28 pm

I sized up what I want to do with is.
I just got this today and my mind has been reeling with ideas!
Can anybody help me out, any thoughts or suggestions are more than welcome?!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:13 pm

A water jug-a-luger?

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:04 pm

The last few days I completely cleaned my frame with the grinder, and today the last coat of POR -15 went on!
I used POR-15 rust prevention first and POR-15 top coat, I did the frame, both upper and lower control arms, rear axle, leafs springs, the cross members and made my old rusty hitch look like brand new!

I have all the prep work and the before and after shots in my build thread.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 5:43 pm

Last Monday Dave and I removed the rear axle which was donated to an Old Navy truck project on an S10 frame.

A week later my ZR-2 axle is installed, POR-15 bilstien shocks and all new brake lines.

More work in progess to come. Oh and its got 270K on it now, 135k on the swapped motor at this point. Keep em truckin.

Blacknoma · Post by **Blacknoma** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:29 pm

Looks good!!!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:52 am

I've been gather parts for the axle swap on mine. Found some Chevy HD wheels I'm going to try to get. My schedule hasn't worked out with the guy who has them. Also found some dodge 1/2 ton springs I'm going to pick up today. I'm really wanting to stay spring under at all 4 corners on this project. Hopefully the yard I'm going to has at least some parts I'll need for the doubler. I'm having trouble finding a 231 with the console and shifter, so I might end up going 241/243 since it seems to be more common around here. I've got my astro van steering box now too. After a lot of reading... And I do mean a lot... I think I'm going to shoot for a 285/75/16 tire, which is about 33x11 ish. That's about the biggest tire that you can safely run on the hd wheels, and I'm shooting for a really low stance. I'm hoping to be just slightly taller than a full mml truck. Parts finding and gathering is coming along nicely though.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:34 pm

ApproachMedium wrote:Last Monday Dave and I removed the rear axle which was donated to an Old Navy truck project on an S10 frame.
A week later my ZR-2 axle is installed, POR-15 bilstien shocks and all new brake lines.
More work in progess to come. Oh and its got 270K on it now, 135k on the swapped motor at this point. Keep em truckin.

Looking great, those zr5 rims great on those 30's! It must be nice to have zr2 rear axle so you don't have run spacers - I'm kinda jealous

today I first installed a chrome bowtie emblem

Then I washed off my truck and took this low shot, the frame looks great!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:00 pm

Yea its great! No spacers for me. Heard too many nightmare stories and on a truck with as much HP as this has I do not want a small piece of metal holding my wheels on come between me rolling and me wrecking it at 70mph.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:49 pm

I got an airaid intake system on thursday, it was powder coated yellow. I used my better judgement and painted today before I installed it. I used duplicolor victory red along with primer underneath and 3 coats of clear all heat resistance. I ran into a few problems along the way, the system was pushed all the way into the radiator hoses and pipes and the filter sat so low it was bending the wires down there - info in my build thread. I drilled a new hole on the bracket and raised the mount 1", now it sits perfect! I also today painted the MAF sensor housing, cleaned the MAF sensor and used ArmorAll on my roll up cover!

The paint came out great!

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:59 pm

I painted all my lug nut covers, they were all 2 shades lighter than the covers in the middle - now they look like new! I used the leftover can of black plastic spray paint from when I painted my bumper pads.

I also changed my oil and oil filter. Then my rear axle differential started leaking so I found the loose bolt on the cover and tightened it back up, no more leaks yet!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:18 pm

Just wait. These things Love to leak oil.

LMs10CrewCab · Post by **LMs10CrewCab** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:37 pm

^ Your right about that

My radiator started leaking so yesterday I replaced it along with a new thermostat and coolant flush!
Two days ago I added prestone cleaner, then I drained the old coolant, removed the T-stat, added just water and ran for ten minutes, drained the water, siphoned out the old coolant out of the overflow tank and then started removing the old radiator.

Old radiator out

New radiator

Installed!

Put in the new thermostat, filled up with Prestone's version of Dexcool and got all the air out of the system!

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Wed Sep 10, 2014 8:57 am

Replaced the upper and lower control arm bushings in the crew yesterday. Needless to say after 12 years of service they were in dire need. They were causing a huge amount of slop and would shift and pop on corners. Front end is now all tight and back together.