Aluminium Drive Shaft question

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:26 am

My wife's 2001 S10 Crew cab lost a cap off the rear u-joint. The last time I put a u-joint in it, the caps didn't seat real tight like they would in a metal yoke. The c-clip had worked loose a couple of times and I kept knocking it back in.

My question...

Do all of the crew cabs have the aluminium driveshaft?

Is there a different year with a steel driveshaft that would work on hers?

Keep in mind that this truck has 125k miles on a rural mail route with some of the worst east texas dirt roads imaginable. I'm not looking for something cheap, I'm looking for something that will last.

James

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:45 am

I think all of the 01-04 Crew Cabs had aluminum drive shafts (all of the ones I have looked under did anyway).

It is possible that you might find a steel drive shaft on and extended cab S10, but I'm not sure what year to look for or if the shaft is the exact same length.

The extended cab S10's share the same wheelbase as the Crew Cabs, but that doesn't mean the shaft is the same length.

As you probably know drive shafts can be shortened and lengthened so don't worry too much about finding one that is exactly the same length.

To be honest the aluminum drive shafts are much nicer than the steel drive shafts since they are lighter, larger diameter, and better balanced.

A steel drive shaft might have a little more impact strength, but it doesn't sound like you would need to worry about that.

Are you sure you installed the right u-joints on the aluminum shaft?

Auto parts stores are known for giving out the wrong u-joints.

Steve

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:09 pm

I wasn't aware that the extended cab was the same wheelbase as the crew cab. That might help.

I am certain I had the right u-joint. It fit the steel yoke like it was supposed to and I didn't have any problems with the front u-joint. I replace them both at the same time.

The rear u-joint was replace once before and I didn't do it. I think the guy that replaced the first one may have forced the caps out instead of heating it to get the plastic out first. When I replaced both u-joints, the rear one squeezed in way too easy. I was expecting to have problems with it. It did last close to 2 years though.

Thanks for the reply
James

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:13 am

killian96ss wrote:To be honest the aluminum drive shafts are much nicer than the steel drive shafts since they are lighter, larger diameter, and better balanced.

A steel drive shaft might have a little more impact strength, but it doesn't sound like you would need to worry about that.

You Might Have To worry Just A Little

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:56 am

Steve

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:37 am

killian96ss wrote:

Steve

That Is A Picture Of Quickbiker's (Paul) Truck A Long Time Ago. One Of The Trailrides I Went On With C.O.R.E. They Told Me About How Paul Twisted His Drive Shaft Off And It Was A Hollow Aluminum Tube Full Of Cardboard

.
I Think Myself And Rusty (Gary) Were The Only 2 S-10's And All The Other People Had Jeeps.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:04 am

I found a place in Bryan Tx, that built me a steel driveshaft to put back in it. I dropped off the old one yesterday morning and picked up the new one that evening, painted and computer balanced with all spicer parts.

I'm just tickled pink!

James

For future reference, I found one website that claimed aluminium driveshafts required u-joints with a special coating on the caps to prevent corrosion caused by dis-similar metals joining. I had never heard that before.

daevans315 · Post by **daevans315** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:11 am

Looks like the solution is already found but just as a FYI:

My 97 Extended cab has a 2 piece steel drive shaft with a carrier bearing (or midship bearing). Over all the length looks very similar to the crew. However, you don't want any part of those. The second half has special U-joints that are half way between a u-joint and a CV joint called a double cardan joint. They are an expensive pain in the butt to rebuild and Chevy will only sell you a new drive shaft. They don't consider them fixable.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:43 pm

daevans315 wrote:Looks like the solution is already found but just as a FYI:

My 97 Extended cab has a 2 piece steel drive shaft with a carrier bearing (or midship bearing).........

My '97 had a one piece aluminum but. it was rpo ZR2

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 3:28 am

my 2000 Extended Cab 4WD has the same aluminum driveshaft as my old CC did... same part #.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:01 pm

I remember that one! They are great drive shafts if you aren't going to do any hard rock crawling. The do give ya more accelleration. I lost some accelleration when I went to a steel shaft. The stock aluminum are fairly strong, and I hit it up againsta allot. That time that it broke, it was all the weight of the truck that came slamming down on a boulder. There is no give to aluminum, it just snaps. I have bent the steel shaft 2 times, but at least I was able to wobble home. Since that, I have put in a 6 degree shim to get my drive shaft tucked in more, I haven't dinged it since then. Our drive shafts are very long, and if you don't wanna ding it up, you need to shim it up. lol