ZQ8 steering gear box ( quick ratio )

[Steventruck]

I thought I remembered seeing something about swapping in a ZQ8 steering box from an Extreme into a ZR2, but I've searched and I can't find it. Feel free to post a link to it if I just missed it.

For those that are wondering what I am talking about, the steering ratio on or trucks is about 14:1. The ratio for the ZQ8 package trucks is around 12:1. This means the the truck responds to the steering wheel faster, and the wheel doesn't have to be turned as far for the same turn with the regular box. the ZQ8 box that I got is 3.0 turns from lock to lock. I'm not sure how many turns it is with the stock setup but I'll check tonight.

Why would I want this? quicker ratio means that more steering can be done without taking my hands off the wheel. For example, race cars are often set up so that it is .8 turns lock to lock. If there was a piece of tape at the 12:00 position on the wheel, when the tape is at the 5:00 the wheels are full right, 7:00 is full left. That is why these NASCAR drivers can drive out of spins. I have the same quick ratio on my Chevy Caprice 9C1 police car.

Well, I found a truck in the junkyard with RPO ZQ8 so I got the steering gear box. supprisingly, it wasn't an Extreme. Just a regular looking truck, but I checked the glove box and sure-nuff.

If I recall correctly, the swap is plug-n-play, with the exception of swapping the pitman arm out for a 4WD one. Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

[2kwik4u]

Steve,

You are 100% correct.

The ZQ8 box came on S10 Xtreme trucks, as well as some that simply had the ZQ8 package. The package included alot of other things as well as the box, but thats for another thread.

The swap should be a direct bolt in. Simply remove the old box, remove the pitman arm, swap the 4x4 pitman arm onto the ZQ8 box, and re-install the new box. I would estimate 2-3 hours to get it all done, assuming you don't run into any snafu's.

Mike

[killian96ss]

You probably already found the info you need, but here is some more from ZR2.com. ZQ8 Steering Box Swap

Steve

[Steventruck]

How do I get the damn pitman arm off?!?!

I separated the column, both fluid lines, all three frame bolts, but I couldn't get the pitman arm off.

I bought a new 4x4 pitman arm so I'd be ready. There is a big frame crossmember directly under the steering box so I couldn't get to that, so the other option (prefered method anyways so I get the new arm in there) is to separate the pitman arm from the centerlink. I removed the cotter pin and the castle nut no problem. I then spent the next HOUR with the pickle fork (separator fork) hammering on the damn thing.

I ended up re-installing everything (with stock components... very frustrating).

I have a pitman arm separator tool, and it works well for pulling the arm off the steering box, but not off the centerlink. Should I look for another tool? It's probably the same tool as would remove the idler arm from the centerlink. I don't remember seeing anything at Advance auto/Auto Zone/O'Reily's. GM part?

Thanks

Steve

[2kwik4u]

I had a similar problem while replacing all the steering on my Xtreme....I ended up going to AutoZone, and renting a pretty simple puller mechanism for free, and forcing the dang thing apart. I forget what they called the puller exactly, however you sound like you have some sense, and can tell what your looking for.....Just find the one that looks like it can grab the center link, and push the pitman arm out....Kinda like two claws, and a threaded bolt in the center.....I'm sure you get the idea. The other option if you have air available is to get an air hammer, and hit the pickle fork with that. I've heard that works as well.

[killian96ss]

How do I get the damn pitman arm off?!?!

Just find the one that looks like it can grab the center link, and push the pitman arm out....Kinda like two claws, and a threaded bolt in the center.....I'm sure you get the idea. The other option if you have air available is to get an air hammer, and hit the pickle fork with that.

First of all there are different sized pitman arm pullers and pickle forks. You just have to find the one that works best. I have been using a Lisle pickle fork kit for years on several different vehicles with no problems. I think I paid about $40 for the kit at a local independent parts store, but I have seen the same kit at Pep Boys and Sears. The kit has attachments to work with a BFH or air hammer. I would bet anything that with this kit and an air hammer you would easily get that pitman arm off. The screw type pullers work well also if you can find the right size. Harbour Freight carries several different sizes. If you use a screw puller on a pitman arm or idler arm shaft that's very tight make sure you wear safety glasses because they can and do break!

Steve

[Snoman002]

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_3.html
Other possible steering gears other than the ZQ8. Not sure what the travel is on the ZQ8 box but I believe that the stops for the secong gen S-10's is on the controll arms, that means you can just get a box with a high travel (read: NOT FIREBIRD boxes).

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
A couple links if interested.

[Steventruck]

So I found out that the tool I needed was the Tie rod fork. I was using the ball joint fork without success. It popped right off with the tie rod fork.

Steering is much tighter, but the bearing on the pitmen arm was bad. I now have the new [used] steering gear and also a NEW pitman arm. I have tighter (radius) turning.

So far I love it.

STeve

[Steventruck]

So I'm noticing that my turn signal stays doesn't turn off after sweeping turns now because I'm not turning the wheel s far for turns. I still like it though.

[Jim]

So I'm noticing that my turn signal stays doesn't turn off after sweeping turns now because I'm not turning the wheel s far for turns. I still like it though.

I have a ZQ8 steering gear waiting to install until my warranty runs out. The way I see it the used boxes won't be getting any cheaper and will have higher miles on them if you wait to buy one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWN%3AIT

[quickbiker]

Sweet. Let us know how you like it after the swap. I've been pondering the same mod for a while now, but waiting till mine wears out probably. I kinda like the stock one for the highway though, but at times want the quick ratio. Be nice to switch between the 2. lol.

[quickbiker]

So I'm noticing that my turn signal stays doesn't turn off after sweeping turns now because I'm not turning the wheel s far for turns. I still like it though.

Mmm, I'm wondering if it would be a bad idea for my size tires.

[bgs]

I don't have a CC, but I have done a steer box
change as well using a rebuilt YA box along with
the str pump mod and replacing the OEM steer
shaft with one I made up using Borgeson DD
tubing and Flaming River billet u-joints. Pretty
darn tight now with a 2.25/2.50 turn lock to lock.

http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.htm


One thing I highly suggest is to install an inline
filter on the return side on the box going into
the pump. Works great and will increase the
life of both the box and the pump. Only a couple
of bucks at any CSK parts store..>

[rlith]

I've used the Zq8 box through 2 trucks now and it's always been good... I topped it off by replacing my intermediate shaft with one from a 98 Grand Cherokee... Quicker repsonse and no slop from a crappy rag joint (the grand cherokee and jeeps in general use a u-joint system)

[HenryJ]

Looks like I may have aquired a rebuilt ZQ8 steering box. I await the arrival of a brown truck.

I don't remember the number of turns the wheel had stock? I have added to the stops on mine for the bigger tires and currently have 2.5 turns lock to lock. I would appreciate it if someone could run out and check to see what the stock number of turns is , lock to lock.

[HenryJ]

...I would appreciate it if someone could run out and check to see what the stock number of turns is , lock to lock.

1. Lock the steering column through the access hole in the steering column lower trim cover using J 42640 .
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove the intermediate shaft shield from the steering gear.
4. Place a drain pan below the steering gear.
5. Disconnect the wiring harness clip from the power steering return hose at the power steering gear.
6. Remove the pressure and the return hoses from the power steering gear.
Cap or tape the ends of the hoses and the gear fittings in order to prevent dirt from entering the system.
7. Remove the lower intermediate shaft coupling bolt.
8. Draw alignment marks on the lower intermediate shaft coupling and the steering shaft.
9. Remove the lower intermediate shaft coupling from the steering shaft.
10. Raise the vehicle.
11. Remove the steering linkage shield.
12. Remove differential carrier shield mounting bolts.
13. Remove the differential carrier shield.
14. Remove the pitman arm ball stud cotter pin and nut at the relay rod.
15. Disconnect pitman arm from relay rod using J 24319-B .
16. Remove the steering gear mounting bolts and the washers from the frame.
17. Remove the steering gear.
18. Remove the pitman arm.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the pitman arm.
2. Install the steering gear.
3. Install the power steering gear to the frame washers and mounting bolts.
Tighten the power steering gear to frame mounting bolts to 75 N·m (55 lb ft).
4. Connect the relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud.
5. Ensure the seal is on the stud. Seat the taper using J 29193 or J 29194 .
Tighten J 29193 or J 29194 to 62 N·m (48 lb ft).
6. Remove J 29193 or J 29194 from the pitman arm ball stud.
7. Install the new nut and cotter pin to the pitman arm ball stud at the relay rod.
Tighten the pitman arm ball stud nut at the relay rod to 83 N·m (61 lb ft).
8. Install differential carrier shield.
9. Install the differential carrier shield mounting bolts.
10. Install the steering linkage shield.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Install the lower intermediate shaft to the power steering gear.
13. Ensure that the alignment marks line up.
14. Install the lower intermediate shaft coupling bolt.
Tighten the lower intermediate shaft coupling bolt to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).
15. Install the pressure and return hoses to the power steering gear.
* Tighten the pressure hose to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
* Tighten the return hose to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
16. Connect the wiring harness clip to the power steering return hose at the power steering gear.
17. Install the intermediate shaft shield to the power steering gear.
18. Install the air cleaner assembly.
19. Unlock the steering column by removing the J 42640 from the steering column lower steering column trim cover access hole.
20. Bleed the power steering system.

[HenryJ]

...I would appreciate it if someone could run out and check to see what the stock number of turns is , lock to lock.

Please.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side, then count the number of turns it takes to reach the stop on the other side.

We know what the box is , but our trucks do not use the internal stop of the box. They rely on the spindle/a-arm stops.

[F9K9]

...I would appreciate it if someone could run out and check to see what the stock number of turns is , lock to lock.

Please.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side, then count the number of turns it takes to reach the stop on the other side.

We know what the box is , but our trucks do not use the internal stop of the box. They rely on the spindle/a-arm stops.

I would if, I could

[Steve2003]

...I would appreciate it if someone could run out and check to see what the stock number of turns is , lock to lock.

Please.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side, then count the number of turns it takes to reach the stop on the other side.

We know what the box is , but our trucks do not use the internal stop of the box. They rely on the spindle/a-arm stops.

Almost 3 turns....just a tad bit under.

[HenryJ]

Almost 3 turns....just a tad bit under.

Thank you!

Nice to know adding to the stops only lost me just under 1/2 turn of the wheel.

[HenryJ]

Yep, I edited the title of this thread.

Guess what...we already have the quick ratio box. You guessed it I totally wasted my money investing in a new one.
I did upgrade the pitman arm to a heavier duty aftermarkt one. Other than that I wasted an afternoon.

Pass on this one crew cabbers. I live and learn. It is cheaper than college tuition, I guess Sure wish someone had found this one out before I did

Anybody need a quick ratio steering box?

I guess that might explain why we have some high effort turning with big tires.

[killian96ss]

Guess what...we already have the quick ratio box.

Oh well, maybe you were already on the right track with the pressure upgrades as that now seems to be the only cure for the increased turning effort caused by larger tires.

I did upgrade the pitman arm to a heavier duty aftermarket one.

Which pitman arm did you get? I have a new MOOG problem solver pitman arm part # K6255 sitting in my garage waiting for me to install it. I have been putting off the install because I see you need to remove the damn steering box just to get the thing off and I really don't feel like doing that right now.

Steve

[HenryJ]

I used NAPA Chassis part 268-1652 $45.99
It is nearly double the beef of the stock one.

I went with this one since I can talk to the rep face to face if I have a problem. Many people swear by MOOG. I have had bad experiences with MOOG parts for Fords. They kind of still have a bad taste left in my mouth. I have also had problems with NAPA suspension parts. They do seem to be progressive when an issue arises and I have seen the improvements first hand.

[HenryJ]

I can't say for sure yet, but I may be wrong again I haven't driven the truck since the switch. Just some wheel cranking in the driveway.

Both boxes , side by side have three turns lock to lock. I did not measure the degrees that the pitman arm rotates, but it looked to be the same. That is where I came up with the idea that they were the same ratio. I was under the impression that the "non-ZQ8" boxes were four turns lock to lock. That would make a box with three turns quick ratio, right?

Now in the truck I started with 2.5 turns lock to lock. After installing the ZQ8 box and without the engine running, I seem to have 2 turns lock to lock. Engine running I came up with 2.25 turns lock to lock, but I may still have a little air in the system.

I may be all wet. I guess I should tie my fingers until I have a chance to really check things out thoroughly. Things don't seem so cut and dried right now.

EDIT: OK, lets calculate the difference. With the 14:1 box I had 2.5 turns. Divide 14 / 2.5 = 5.6
Now the 12.7:1 box. Divide 12.7 / 5.6 = 2.26 turns
I guess that works out right. So I do have a quicker ratio box?

I guess I tend to jump to conclusions when I should sit down and figure things out thoroughly

[philntx]

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

[HenryJ]

I have had a little while to digest the new steering box.

It is OK. I might even call the little difference, nice. I don't think it is something I would add to my most wanted mod list though.

It is most noticeable when making a 90º turn. The wheel does not need to turn quite as far as before.