Radiator upgrade

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Thu May 07, 2015 6:56 pm

So I know there is a mod page on the upgraded radiator for our trucks, unfortunately it seems as if the Trans Pro ones have all been discontinued to the stock 1" thick core factory replacement. I also did a search and did not see much else on the site as a direction to go. Has anyone found another radiator that works? I want to keep the stock engine oil and trans fluid coolers in the radiator. I did some searching online and summit actually listed a few different ones that were close, particularly this one CU1533, which is 1.25" thick and is an 1.25" taller for added cooling. The inlet and outlets are the same size, I would have to go check out the cooler hookups to verify those would work. My concerns are the added height of the radiator, the extra 1.25" is what I believe would be problematic. The stock is 15" and the one I was looking at is 16.25". One other issue is the location of the top engine oil cooler location, as it is higher than the stock location and the line is already kind of tight.

Any thoughts on that radiator or any other options would be nice to have.

Back story for the search though. I have flushed the stock cooling system and filled with green antifreeze again just recently. I also finally installed my LS1 fans finally into the truck with the flex a lite VSC. Have an AUX trans cooler, and have the big 3 electrical upgrade to cope with the fans as well. Planning on towing a 3500# enclosed trailer more often this summer as opposed to in the winter only. Towed it the other day in 80 degree heat as a test run. On the backroads and freeway I was running between 200-202 on my scanner with no AC. Then I tried it with the AC on and it would run between 207-212. I know these temps aren't terrible, but I also know the temps will get warmer and more so, the humidity in the summer. My next step is adding a bottle of water wetter to see what difference that will make.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Thu Jul 30, 2015 11:56 pm

I had stepped away from this for awhile and just came back to it. After doing some more research on this. It appears the CU1533 radiator fit the 1995 S10 prior to the motor redesign. I'm curious as to why GM decided to put a smaller radiator in these trucks... Engine design may not have needed the extra heat transfer because it was more efficient? In any case. Definitely feel better trying to put this radiator in my truck knowing that it fit previous S10s already.

Built2Bend · Post by **Built2Bend** » Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:19 am

I'm also interested in find a larger radiator. Something I was thinking about was find a v8 s10 radiator kit. But I don't have any tools so I'll have to use a full bolt on kit(which I don't think exist) but if people are making them fit with a v8 I assume they'll fit with are v6s. Something to consider but there's probly something I'm over looking that will stop it from working

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:52 am

Well after doing some more investigating the core size of the CU1533 radiator is the same as our radiator as far as height and width so it will fit with no problems. The core thickness of the aftermarket CU1533 radiators is 1.25" instead of the 1" like the '96 and up radiators that are in our trucks, so that's a 25% increase in cooling. The factory AC Delco replacement radiator is 1.375" core thickness or a 37.5% increase over our stock radiator. I will use the oil cooler lines from a '95 because they will bolt up to our oil filter housing as '95 trucks used the same one so you won't have to worry about hooking lines up or cutting and adding hose for the different location. They are the screw in versus the quick connect which some people like one better than the other. The trans cooler hoses on the 95 are 5/16 fittings instead of 3/8 though. I'm getting around that with the spare parts from my trans cooler which came with barb fittings that will fit the '95 radiator. This will be a very straight forward swap and you will either gain the extra 25% cooling with an aftermarket radiator or 37.5% with an AC Delco replacement for a 95 s10.

My AC Delco radiator is order and on the way.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:36 am

Well just an update. The radiator came in today. To my dissatisfaction the core is only 1.25"

I measured the cores per inch and I am going to run to the parts store and check theirs to see if its the same or if I have a reason to keep the GM radiator over an aftermarket. I'll keep everyone posted.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:11 pm

Just for an FYI, im running a V8 in my S10 using a stock radiator for an S10. No upgrades. I do not have the oil cooler lines attached to it, they are useless and leak a ton anyways. I have Dodge Intrepid fans on this thing and it runs just fine. Even my AC works without an aux fan.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Fri Aug 14, 2015 12:40 pm

I followed your V8 build. Have you towed much with it after doing the V8 swap? Only saw mention of driving it around. Pushing these 4.3l to pull 4k pounds in the summer heat and humidity couple with AC puts a lot of strain on the motor, which builds up a good amount of heat. I would guess more so than a V8 because the V8 wouldn't have to work as hard.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:03 pm

Well I've decided to go the custom route. Going to get a 2 row radiator made up like a stock one with 3/4" tubes. It will give me a 50% increased area over stock since total tube thickness will be 1.5". Wanted to keep the total core thickness down to help with airflow over the tubes. Also, the air can only exchange so much heat and no since having too thick a core if the air is already heat saturated before it makes its way through the radiator.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:32 pm

Just a quick word of advice on the custom rad. Make sure the air flow fins that don't carry coolant are not too close together either. Years ago John Deere had trouble with this and took them a couple years to figure out they put too many cross fins in causing the air flow to be restricted enough it took very little dirt or debris to cause heating problems. 2row is fine but my personal preference would be a 2row staggered tube design over an inline 2row. Just my

worth.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:55 pm

Ended up getting a 2 row 1" cores radiator made up, didn't offer 3/4" cores. Took extremely long to get, originally said 1 week lead time and took 3 1/2. Said their company was waiting on the engine cooler. Took for a test tow with the enclosed trailer while running ac and it was almost 80 out with some humidity. Pulled great and my temps didn't go above 210 even on some steady grades on the freeway. On flat travel they stayed 205 with ac on and 200 with it off. I'm impressed with it and can't wait to use it more.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Sep 27, 2015 1:49 pm

Nice

What brand? How much $$ ?
Might be shopping for the Vega soon. Curious as to who and where

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:57 pm

The shop I went to was called Master Radiator, they're in Waterford, MI. I am unsure what facility they use, but they made it with the same mounting points along with engine and trans coolers with new quick connect fittings. Ran $450.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:07 pm

Not bad. Are they your warranty source for it?
Should be a rock solid solution.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 4:57 am

Very nice! I'd like to do an electric fan and better radiator over the winter. Slow trail riding and ac currently don't mix.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:48 am

They are my warranty source as well. I've had a few people get custom radiators from them and always gotten great service. Figure this should last for the next 4-5 years, which is probably when I'll be looking to upgrade. As far as electric fan, I'm running the ls fan swap that HenryJ posted with the flex a lite controller and inline temp sensor in the upper rad hose.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:43 pm

I think as nice as that radiator looks, I think I'd out a screen in front of it to keep bugs out of the fins.

Is there a part number for it or was is a custom made radiator? I like it. I want it.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:57 am

Custom made, and the screen in front of it to keep the bugs out will be the ac condenser. While I had the radiator out I took the house and back washed all the garbage out of the condenser and used a cleaner as well. There was a ton of crap restricting airflow.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:15 pm

Well update on the radiator and it's not a good one. The thing lasted a total of 3 months and that includes a good month portion of me riding my motorcycle and not driving the truck. It was leaking where the tubes go into the plate on both ends to hold the tubes in line and keep the cores spaced apart. The company, Master Radiator in Waterford, MI gave me a hard time about getting it replaced. Wanted to see it first. Then they claimed the company who built it wanted it back to verify and so on, which means had to swap the stock one back in it. Found out it was Superior Radiator out of Mt. Clemmens, MI who built the radiator just as some info, they have a website which sells V8 radiators for our trucks as well and I DO NOT recommend them. It took a week to get a replacement in finally because they had to order a core since they didn't have one in stock. Finally get the new one in and installed and less than a month later and roughly 1700 miles it's leaking the same way as the last one did! Thankfully returned it for a refund but what a headache. Either the cores they were getting in are just plain junk, or when they're welding the tanks on are heating up the material too much and causing the tubes to fracture where they are sealed.

Tossing around the idea to get an eBay 3 core radiator at less than 1/2 the cost with a 2 year warranty. There's several sellers now offering them with the trans and oil coolers built into them, I verified by email. When I was looking before the photos would show them, but when questioned only the trans was built in. So likely I will be getting one of those before the weather gets warm and I start towing again. Yes I'm sure they're China made, but so far my 2 year old China Autozone radiator has lasted with no leaks and the American made custom radiator failed in less than a month. Just really sad.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 7:10 pm

Bummer. I just put a new radiator in the Vega. Griffin. Big $$. Doing the job so far

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:26 pm

Trust me, bummer is an understatement after swapping radiators 3 times in a month.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:10 pm

You know what they say..."anything worth doing once is worth doing again?" In this case "Fool me once shame on me , fool me twice shame on you" might be more appropriate?
I guess you could have been wasting your time and money on booze and bar flies.... actually after a third radiator that is starting to sound good?

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 2:41 pm

Well I ordered a 3 core off eBay from a seller that's sells KKS radiators. Has both engine and trans coolers installed and the tanks are stamped instead of welded and looks pretty clean. As soon as it comes in on the 21st I'll try and get some pics up and give a review.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:35 pm

Finally had a chance to get this KKS radiator in. I must say I really like the fit in the truck, no modifications were needed. The only thing I would suggest is use the factory cooler quick connects. I didn't have a problem with the engine oil cooler ones but the trans ones both leaked badly. I'll kee everyone updated on how well it holds up. Opted to purchase the 2 year warranty from eBay on auto parts for it in case it leaks. Ended up just over $210 for it and the warranty.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Apr 03, 2016 6:34 am

I like it. Have a part number or a link to this one?

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Apr 03, 2016 6:55 am

Search KKS1826 on eBay.

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Wed May 11, 2016 7:43 pm

What thermostat are you using on yours. I found a 1.25" rad (damn near brand new) on an 04 at the junkyard last year still had fresh green stuff in it and the shop installation sticker dated 3 months prior to my finding it on the tank. Using the Heavy duty fan clutch from Advanced, stock fan, stock pump, and a 180* thermostat, 50/50 green, no water wetter.

IIRC the thermostat I got is a JET 180* that I got from Summit back in spring of 08 when i flushed the Dex-crap out of it. I flush it every year with Prestone cooling system liquid cleaner (it's Junk AFAIC, they should have kept the good stuff, but it's not PC

) after it's flushed and refill with plain water for a week.

The 1st year(08) when it had a 195 T-Stat in it, the lowest it would run was 200, No AC, in mild temps (60-70*). Summer temps, 210 no AC and 225 with AC. NO TRAILER!!!! So I put on a new 180T-ST, new hoses, and swapped to Green 50/50. New pump in 2012, and new rad last year. Also I have a Trans Temp gauge that is mounted just off the outlet from the radiator, and then into a 25,0000 GVW rated Aux cooler. The temps on this since the new radiator and clutch never gets hotter than 20* below the temp gauge normal driving. If the temp gauge is reading 180, the trans gauge reads 160* but after the Aux cooler the temps are more like 135-140*. When I'm towing the gauge shows an increase in temps to about 5-10 less than Dash gauge temps. It;s never got above 180* by the Trans gauge. I really should have it after the aux cooler, but it was installed before the Aux cooler. It would probably be more accurate mounted in the pan.

Something you might want to consider to help the radiator. With the engine cold, open the radiator cap, and get out your volt ohm meter. set to DCmv or lowest DCvoltage settings. With the meter in DCmv or lowest DCV setting place the red probe in the coolant without touching metal, and the black probe on a chassis ground. Normally a 4.3L in a S-10 will show between 2-4Volts. I've seen as high as 7vDC as there is galvanic action between the cast iron block, and aluminum heads and radiator. Which eats at the aluminum as its a softer metal. So what you do is ground the radiator to the chassis. Get some braided ground strap(small stuff) and make 2 straps on the top of the core support (solder or bolt to the support. Then drill a couple holes in the radiator support across the front of the truck that the plastic hold-down attaches to. Bolt the ground straps to the support making sure you have good connection (use a ohm meter should read less than 1 ohm). Now put one probe of the meter in the coolant and the other on chassis. DCMV reading should be less than 1/2 to 1/4 volt (0.5VDC to 0.25VDC or 250mv to 500mv). Now that the radiator is NOT acting like a sacrificial anode, the radiator will last longer and the coolant will look cleaner longer too. Which helps keep the temps down. My Jimmy had a reading of 6.8V before and 150mv after. The truck had a reading of 5.2 and 97mv after. Radiator shop showed me this one years ago. Due to the plastic tanks, the core is not at chassis ground potential anymore, so there is a voltage differential. This is similar to having sacrificial zinc anodes on ships to keep the hull from degrading from galvanic action of the seawater and dissimilar metals and the AC and DC voltage thru out the hull as it's sitting in water and the electrical systems are grounded to the hull but not to a earth ground. Galvanic action will eventually put holes in the hull of the ship if zinc anodes are not installed. in the case of the truck the radiator and the engine block need to be at the same ground potential (voltage). The ground strap acomplish this. With your metal tanks this may not be necessary, if it's attached directly to the chassis (no rubber isolators) but a plastic tanked radiator in the 4.3 it should be done.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Wed May 11, 2016 9:24 pm

I'm running a 195 degree stat. Your stat temp is simply the temperature it opens fully so running a lower stat temp once you get over that value it will not help cool the motor anymore.

As far as your comment on checking for electrolysis in the cooling system. At NO time should you see over 3/10 of a volt as it is extremely damaging at that point, let alone you recommending 2-4volts as being normal on an s10. The cooling system in my truck has not seen a 1/10 of a volt when those all aluminum radiators failed. That voltage reading in the cooling system is a direct result of the acidity level of the coolant.

Thus far with this new radiator and NO ground strap attached to it I have had ZERO issues. The two failures from the "custom shop" were poor builds, PERIOD. I am running 50/50 green as well. Have been since I bought the truck 70k miles ago.

Also, as far as your trans temps go, you are reading them in the wrong location if you're looking for a factual number of what the trans temp is really running at and how well overall your cooler is doing its job. You need to measure the fluid temp in the pan as that is where the fluid temp that will be going into the trans is at, not directly after a cooler as it will warm back up as it gets closer to the pan and once it dumps back in. When manufacturers test for cals on vehicles as well as even where the trans has its own temp sensor is located in the pan because that is where your fluid resevior is.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat May 21, 2016 7:51 am

LoneWolf04 wrote:I followed your V8 build. Have you towed much with it after doing the V8 swap? Only saw mention of driving it around. Pushing these 4.3l to pull 4k pounds in the summer heat and humidity couple with AC puts a lot of strain on the motor, which builds up a good amount of heat. I would guess more so than a V8 because the V8 wouldn't have to work as hard.

For whatever reason i never saw this reply. Anyhow, i have yet to tow with mine but a buddy who has the exact same setup, but with a lift and 20 inch wheels etc is running 2 sets of the flexi fans and a stock radiator has zero issues pulling a car trailer AC on or off. The reason he had the two sets of fans is one is regular cooling other is in front of the condenser for AC help. With my stock rad and the interpid fans, I dont need any helper fans for cold AC. Worth the $50 junk yard parts!

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:56 am

LoneWolf04 wrote:Finally had a chance to get this KKS radiator in. I must say I really like the fit in the truck, no modifications were needed. The only thing I would suggest is use the factory cooler quick connects. I didn't have a problem with the engine oil cooler ones but the trans ones both leaked badly. I'll kee everyone updated on how well it holds up. Opted to purchase the 2 year warranty from eBay on auto parts for it in case it leaks. Ended up just over $210 for it and the warranty.

][/url]

Does the stock shroud fit over this? Also interested in how well it cools so far. Im gonna be pulling around #3500 pop up camper with my truck as well.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:45 am

I've got my stock shroud cut up and ls fans installed with a bracket. Stock should fit though because it is no taller or wider than the stock radiator. So far it's been running great even with the AC on in 85 degree weather and towing a double jet ski trailer, only about 1k lbs. I haven't towed the enclosed yet which is about 3500. I'll wait til it's nice and hot out to test it.

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Wed Jun 08, 2016 4:22 am

Ok great, ill probably order mine today then. Ill keep you guys posted. Thanks!

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Wed Jun 08, 2016 4:58 am

Just another forewarning. I would reuse your original radiator quick connect fittings. Had issues with the ones I got.

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Wed Jun 08, 2016 3:59 pm

Ok will do. I just replaced them anyway since I did my oil cooler lines.

KennyB · Post by **KennyB** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:41 pm

Any updates on the ebay KKS1826 radiator. My 4.3 just cracked the original plastic tank up by the top hose. I'm here in AZ and need a little extra cooling in 115 degree temp days with a/c on...

Also saw the heavy duty version over at Jagsthatrun.com (guys that do v8 conversion kits) for the 4.3. Had a handy tip on swapping out the fan also to a smaller size that better fits the shroud.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_ ... r-134.html

Just trying to decide. I'm calling on the HD version to get more info on it and the fan mod.

KennyB

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:45 pm

No matter what, with them temps, id do the swap to the intrepid fans like i did for the V8. With the heat we had a few weeks ago sitting in NYC traffic (which is always a good 10 degrees hotter than surrounding areas) AC on, engine at 200 degrees and my AC was blowing cold as cold can be. I couldnt even keep it on max because with it recirculating my hands were getting stiff on the wheel lol.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:50 pm

Radiator has been working great even with the high humidity and 95 degree weather it's been all summer here in Michigan.

KennyB · Post by **KennyB** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:53 pm

On the Intrepid fans did you do a write up on it by chance?

Lonewolfo4,
Thanks for the update, always worried about quality on ebay at times...

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 6:14 pm

KennyB wrote:On the Intrepid fans did you do a write up on it by chance?

Lonewolfo4,
Thanks for the update, always worried about quality on ebay at times...

I didnt personally install them myself, but there is info on the S10 v8 forums and S10 forum with DIYs to install them in a v8 swapped truck. Its exactly the same install, it attaches in back of the radiator and is held on with the regular radiator supports. You may have to utilize the search feature to find it. When my friend was installing my V8 thats where he found the info on what he had to do to put them in. Some minor cutting is required of the fan housing. Adding the electrical is simple. Either you can have the computer programmed to handle an electric fan or just get an electric fan controller with its own temp sensor. Just make sure however you hook it up, that the HVAC is hooked up to it directly so anytime the knob is in ac or defrost it will engage the fans. I dont have my truck with me right now due to frame cracks or id go look at it and tell you exactly where the points were to hook it up.

You will also need a high current relay to power the fans when triggered by the computer or AC. I have mine grounded to the core support and the positive coming off the rear most large spare fuse spot in the trucks fuse box with i think a 40 or 60 amp fuse. There is a stud there on every one of these trucks so hooking it up is pretty simple for power.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:17 pm

Did some decent towing with the radiator this week. Had to get the girlfriends car from a blown brake line. Drove from Ypsilanti, MI back to Flint area, mostly freeway. Between the radiator/ fan combo truck stayed a nice cool 196. Granted wasn't using AC as it was only 75ish out, cruising at 65 in 3rd with tow haul mode on. Still was the heaviest load I've pulled with the truck, bit over 4K lbs.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:49 pm

Beautiful!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:14 am

Truck looks great! i love the wheels.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 6:46 pm

Thanks. Off of a '14 Camaro. Was never fond of oversized wheels til I saw someone else have these on their s10. Decided to get a set for summer and still run the bfgs on stock wheels for the winter.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 31, 2016 5:51 am

Ordered the kks1826 on ebay last night. Have a new water pump. Need to flush the crap out before putting them in. I'll probably redo the way the efan is mounted also.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Nov 01, 2016 12:38 pm

I'm hoping you like the radiator as much as I am. I still have been having no issues with leaks on mine. Truck hasn't been getting as many miles as it was and only driven on weekends since June. Got a new job that's 140 miles round trip a day that I bought a Cruze to commute in.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Nov 01, 2016 11:33 pm

I am curious to see how mine does with towing. I still have the stock one, the V8 engine of course, and the intrepid fans. Just did some hard driving up to the catskills last weekend, 2.5 hours and lots of heavy pedal. Though the sun wasnt really out and it wasnt too warm and everything was fine.

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Tue Jan 03, 2017 10:20 pm

I'm running a 195 degree stat. Your stat temp is simply the temperature it opens fully so running a lower stat temp once you get over that value it will not help cool the motor anymore.

As far as your comment on checking for electrolysis in the cooling system. At NO time should you see over 3/10 of a volt as it is extremely damaging at that point, let alone you recommending 2-4volts as being normal on an s10. The cooling system in my truck has not seen a 1/10 of a volt when those all aluminum radiators failed. That voltage reading in the cooling system is a direct result of the acidity level of the coolant.

Thus far with this new radiator and NO ground strap attached to it I have had ZERO issues. The two failures from the "custom shop" were poor builds, PERIOD. I am running 50/50 green as well. Have been since I bought the truck 70k miles ago.

Also, as far as your trans temps go, you are reading them in the wrong location if you're looking for a factual number of what the trans temp is really running at and how well overall your cooler is doing its job. You need to measure the fluid temp in the pan as that is where the fluid temp that will be going into the trans is at, not directly after a cooler as it will warm back up as it gets closer to the pan and once it dumps back in. When manufacturers test for cals on vehicles as well as even where the trans has its own temp sensor is located in the pan because that is where your fluid resevior is.

Lone Wolf;
I pull a (gross loaded weight 4500#) 18ft Travel trailer. 1.25" core(checked with micrometer), stock fan, Repro Heavy Duty fan clutch (might as well be solid connection) and a 25,000 GCVW rated Trans cooler in front of the A/C condenser. No Tow-Haul Mode. Summer in Md is a Killer. Temps in the High90's with 90 to 100% Humidity. Pulling the trailer temp goes to 185* with the trans hanging at 180. Up hills the engine temp goes up to 190* but comes back down on the down slope and on the flats. Trans temp never goes above 180. The 4.3L is pulling hard enough without having the A/C running. Windows down 1/2 way is sufficient. Without the trailer and on interstate engine temp never goes above 180 with the trans hanging @ 130-140 in 4th gear.

As for the 2v to 4v norm, I should have expanded on that. It's with DexCool in it which causes a galvanic action due to alkalinity and dissimilar metals. With Green Prestone and ground straps (as the core is isolated from the vehicle electrically with plastic tanks, unless you have a custom Rad with metal tanks) it will be in the low 100's mv.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:39 am

@Lonewolf

Would you mind sharing who the eBay vendor was that you got this from? I ordered that one around Halloween and it is starting to look like I'm getting the shaft.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:41 am

Speed_Daily is who I ordered the KKS aluminum radiator from.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 12:21 pm

Thanks. So they are also in china. I ordered from "maggic_kk". I would not recommend them. I could probably go on a rant with profanities and some foul comments. But I won't. I will say though that I messaged him and asked when it will be back in stock and my order is 3 months old. The reply I got was check again, its in stock.....

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 1:44 pm

That's really sucks. I'm sorry about all the problems you're having trying to get one. I know the number to get a hold of KKS is 503 area code which is Portland, OR. Unless it just transfers you overseas. Mine shipped from L.A. Haven't looked at any other sellers where they say they're shipping from.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:00 pm

Hopefully it is just an honest mistake and it will be on the way soon. If not, hopefully eBay has my back and I get a refund. I have only bought a handful of things off eBay and this is souring the experience.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:09 am

Wahoo! I sent them a message yesterday, straight to the point of, are they scamming me, send me the radiator or a refund. He sent me a tracking number.

Edit: fingers crossed he didn't stab it with an ice pick or something

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:25 pm

This is exactly why i dont buy ebay china junk for my cars anymore. Your tracking number is probably for a muffler bearing from a 1982 Nissian pickup truck. I bought a control board for a Samsung monitor and received a power supply for an LG television. I was told to pick another item in stock, even thought it showed 10 of what i wanted in stock. "you can take any other item off the shelf for same price my friend" yea give me my damn money back.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:37 pm

ApproachMedium I have yet to have any kind of problem like that. Biggest thing is look over the seller ratings and feedback closely. I've ordered things directly from china and come in better condition and faster than things in the US.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:39 pm

I always look over that stuff too. I have had my problems but i have also had good experiences too. I just prefer if I am buying something major for a vehicle like that to go right to a parts source site and get it. Ebay stores come and go, and so do their so called warranties.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 7:05 am

I got the radiator yesterday, and it is beautiful. So, I have jags that run 2.8 motor mounts and brackets, water pump and radiator to go in. Have some of that cooling system flush crap and green antifreeze in the equation as well.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:26 am

are you just swapping the mounts on your v6, because im sure one has to be broken by now lol. or are you prepping for the v8?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 6:27 pm

Just swapping to the 2.8 mounts for now.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:23 pm

Good choice. I think im pushing 3 years on my 2.8 mounts with the V8, and I drive it like I stole it. Still have yet to break anything and the engine sits right where its supposed to.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:39 pm

I put the truck through its paces not too long ago picking up a new ride for the gf. Granted it's winter out, but this was the largest load I've towed with an S10. Between trailer and aztek around 5700#. I know that's a bit over the limit but she towed great. Just gotta make sure you balance it out just right. Not sure why my photos get cropped coming from Photobucket though.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Feb 24, 2017 6:06 am

Could you get a pic of how you mounted the top side of the radiator?

Water pump is on. Fan is attached to the radiator with some little aluminum brackets I made. Fan/radiator is in. Most things are hooked back up. I had to take the heat shield for the spectre intake off, which had the relay and circuit breaker for the efan and the plug for the winch controller attached to it. I had to take off the plastic that holds the original fan shroud so I could get the new radiator far enough forward so the tabs on the bottom would find their holes. I also need to bring my air filter closer to the maf sensor, note to self, I need a piece of tube 3.5 od x 2.5 long. I might just order another filter that attaches directly to the maf sensor instead.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:39 pm

I planned to make an upper mount that was 26 inches long but the bender I was using wouldn't bend the stainless sheet I have, so my test piece got used.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Mon Aug 24, 2020 7:10 am

Well wanted to provide an update after some years of service:

1st KKS ebay radiator last until 2019 - 4 years. Started leaking where a couple tubes entered the tank. Replaced with another one and has been going strong for a year.

Flex-a-lite 36116 controller started acting erratically this year, so lasted 5 years. Think the board was failing as the fans would randomly shut off or only be on the low 60% soft start setting when they should have been running 100% due to temps. Due to the price increase and long lead time of the flex-a-lite controller I have decided to try the Mishimoto - MMFAN-CNTL-U18NPT controller. It does not have soft start, but the price was right and available through Amazon immediately. The LS fans do not pull more than 25amps at start-up, so in my case, I do not see this being an issue with the Mishimoto controller. If you are running higher amp draw fans, best bet would be stick with the flex-a-lite as they go up to 35amps IIRC.