Brake Rotor Warping

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:15 pm

I know we have 2, probably more experts in a lot of the mechanics in our CCs. I have not personally experienced the "steering wheel" vibration in my CC that occurs under "hard" braking. I am old fashioned and have learned that wheel motions that are detected with irregular movement in the steering wheel is front tire/rotor related. If your seat vibrates, then your rear tires/wheels are normally out of balance or have a defect.

Recently I replaced my wife's rotors that had the vibration when braked at speeds of over 50 mph. There is a suggestion that heat creates the warping of the rotors under extreme conditions. I have personally experienced the steering wheel vibration under braking when I have had to run an SUV at abnormal speeds and braking conditions. There was no steering wheel "shudder" prior to the "extreme" work but, it was apparent afterwards.

I have recently been advised from more than one source that, improper tightening of the lug nuts will warp the brake rotors. Can anyone shed some reliable light on the subject?

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:57 pm

i've been told by a factory rep of honda that "if you over torque honda rotors too much, they will warp!" three of us mechanics asked him to prove it.................and he couldn't!!!!!!!
i guess if you torque to lugs beside each other at 200 lbs....then torque the others at 100 lbs......it might!!!!!.......................................a little!!

i've used impacts to tighten lugs on steel wheels....with no problems of warping. on aluminum wheels....i always tightened with a torque wrench, with no problems.

with the newer, harder brake pads, i have seen rotors warp before the pads wear, sometimes.

in my 15+ years as a mechanic....i only had one set of rotors come back with a vibration. come to find out,,,, the guy rode his brakes half the time he was driving.

ima........it's the heat,,,,not the torque!!!!!

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:01 pm

If the tires are put on with an impact wrench without torque sticks, the rotor can be warped. I had this problem on an 88 Olds Cutlass Supreme. When the mechanic hammered the lug nuts while rotating the tires, He warped both front rotors. If a torque stick is not used, you should snug the lugs up, then finish torquing the wheel with a torque wrench to about 100 ft. lbs. The car had no vibration before the tires were rotated, but on the way home, whenever I would hit the brakes I would get a vibration in the steering wheel. Needless to say, I had to replace the front rotors the next weekend.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:25 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:If the tires are put on with an impact wrench without torque sticks, the rotor can be warped.

Okay, this is the second time I have heard about "torgue sticks", I think

A coworker's brother owns/operates two tire shops and my coworker explained about color coded combinination extension/sockets that are used to torgue different manufacturers wheels and they won't tighten more than what the manufacturer allows. Are these the "colorsticks" that you refer to? Keep in mind that I installed tires for sears in the early 70s and this is new to me.

I set my compressor at 90 PSI to reapply her lug nuts and then tightened them to factory specs of 100 lbs.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:37 pm

well....with the last two posts,,,i've heard "torque sticks" twice, too!!!!

does "torque stick" == "torque wrench" ???

border man · Post by **border man** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 6:34 pm

Torque sticks are color coded socket extensions, that are used by most tire shops nowadays to tighten the lugs. They are used with the impacts and absorb the torque to prevent overtoquing of the lug nuts. They are colorcoded according to max torque, ie. red=90ft.lbs. blue=100ft. lbs. etc....

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 6:55 pm

Torque Sticks

border man · Post by **border man** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:06 pm

That's the pic I was trying to post... I't would not post for some reason.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:13 pm

It is the same. It's a [url] I couldn't get it to post either, The only way I know how is to post it to my computer and then back to the forum.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:39 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Torque Sticks

We never stop learning

Thanks to Border Man and Steve2003 but, I am sure there is a bunch more info on this "rotor warping" thing that I have "googled" the heck out of and can't seem to find a decent answer on.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 10:39 am

thanks for the info on the torque sticks!!!!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 11:07 am

I use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, then a regular spinner wrench to put them back on. After snugging them up with the spinner wrench I use my Craftsmen 1/2" tire torque wrench to tighten the lugs to the proper spec. Anothing thing not usually mentioned is to be sure you tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern so that all of the lug nuts are evenly tightened and properly seated.

Steve

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:11 pm

there it is

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:58 pm

I've seen rotors warped by improper torqueing of the wheels also. But it can also be caused by heat. If the rotors have been machined in the past or have not been replaced in a long time, the heat caused by extended use can warp them. Most decent shops should have specs on the minimum rotor thickness before warping would occur.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:42 pm

Torgue Sticks on Ebay for $13.89 and $6.50 shipping. I might invest in the 100 Ft Lb one since the CC and Cavalier are both speced for that.

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 5:41 pm

My old Cavalier used to warp rotors all the time. A co-worker told me it was from inconsistent torque on the lugs. I bought a torque wrench, and haven't suffered from a warped rotor on that vehicle or any other since.