What did you do to your Crew today?

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:12 pm

Went to pick up my grandson at school today, after sitting and listening to the radio for a while, no start. After getting a jump and getting home, voltage at the battery was anywhere from 13.5 to over 20 volts. At least the alternator was easy to change. 2 bolts, one nut, a wire connector and 10 to 15 minutes, problem solved. It looked like the original alternator, 124950 miles, I think I got the best of it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:26 pm

You got great service out of the original. :fingers crossed: the replacement will serve you as well.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:24 am

Well this wasnt today but over the weekend. Finally getting to the computer. Drove it all the way out to the pittsburgh area to spend the weekend with a friend. On the way home took the long way, Route 22 instead of the turnpike and did it the way my grandparents did before interstates. Mostly to check out the local landscapes and catch some train photos along the way. With all the snow we have been getting its piled up. I stopped at the top of the hill in Cresson PA to see if we could get a shot of one of the trains coming out of the tunnel and ended up getting stuck in the snow on my way out. I managed without any tools or anyone pushing to get the thing unstuck and moving again. I can thank having the body lift and 30 inch tires for that.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:17 pm

Very nice looking truck in that snow shot!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:41 am

Thanks! I dont think I ever posted a fully "complete" shot after doing the V8 swap and cosmetic changes. I need to get a shot of it at dusk with all the lights on. It is now fully LED, including the 9006 headlight bulbs and it totally changed the look.

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:16 pm

I just spent almost $2300 on my 2002 today. The 2/3 clutch was burnt out of the tranny. If you look under my former name (okaussie) you can find out about its history.

Looks like the former tranny guy used substandard parts. The new guy also told me that there were score marks on the inside like everything exploded.

Took out out tonight for a test drive and everything works like it's suppose to. Will check the 4WD tomorrow.

The place I took it to this time has done work for me in the past and like them. Just didn't know they rebuilt trannys.
This job took a week. The previous rebuilt lasted only 70K. I have over 202K on it now.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 10:32 pm

My trucks original owner replaced the transmission like 3 times. The first one was the normal right after the warranty went out replacement from the dealer, it was rebuilt then once after and completely replaced right before I got it. I have almost 90k on this unit with no issues so far. Like they say, garbage in garbage out.

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:02 am

My thoughts exactly. From his website he looked like he knew what he was doing. I guess that what you get when you go with the cheapest. Most of the time it is not the best. I guess I am a cheapskate at heart..

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:26 am

Did a starter on my '02 earlier this week. Lasted 109k until it started acting up.

Grind · Post by **Grind** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:55 pm

Put in a 7-pin/4-pin combo trailer plug (but for now, it's just wired as a 4-pin) and did the quad beam headlight mod, following info detailed on this site.

This past Friday, I put in my stereo and speakers, plus another new pair, from my old truck. Now I just need to build a sub box that fits behind the seat.

RobsZRinAR · Post by **RobsZRinAR** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 3:56 pm

I finished up replacing the 'easy-to-get-to', dry-rotted vac lines under the hood, tossed a few bricks of half-melted snow from the bed, painted my front recovery hooks Red, and slipped a Johnny Winter CD into the dash to check the speakers. Rock Me Baby!

Life is nice at 60 degrees and Sunshine!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 12:00 pm

Had it towed yesterday, for I think the first time ever since I bought it. The engine cranks, but wont run. Had a P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Malfunction set in the computer, did the sensor troubleshooting and replaced it and it still wont run. No spark, no RPM readout on the scanner or the gauge in the truck. I am sad.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 5:12 pm

Got fuel pressure?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 5:54 pm

Yea it squirts out of the fuel rail. I just put a new AC Delco pump in. This all happened after i had to stumble it home misfiring like crazy because of hitting some big puddle.s A new rotor and cap fixed that but my RPM needle still kept fluttering randomly. Starting fluid wont help either, since there is no spark.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 6:35 pm

Coil failure?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:55 pm

Replaced that, nothing. The computer wont allow it to make spark if it does not see RPM signal from the crank position sensor. I am not getting RPM data, replaced the crank sensor since that was the code I had and its still not showing it.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Tue Mar 24, 2015 11:05 am

Finally finished bearings, seals, new park brake shoes, and rear rotors. Took a couple of days because had to do it in the driveway. Park brake shoes were down to metal on driver's side, and oil soaked on passenger side. Glad to get finished. Just have to replace intake gaskets, distributor, all new hoses, and radiator. Hopefully that will put the truck in shape for a little while. Hope it lasts until I can get enough money to trade. Truck has been a good one, just time to move on, I'm getting too old to keep wallowing around under anything for long.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:01 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:...Hope it lasts until I can get enough money to trade. Truck has been a good one, just time to move on, I'm getting too old to keep wallowing around under anything for long.

What's on the radar for the next rig?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:35 pm

Just did a crank relearn on mine for the new crank sensor. It started running like crap again figured that needed to get done. All the cylinders misfire on the driver side of the engine. The fuel injector spider was replaced new when the engine was installed. I am beyond annoyed with this thing right now. its really sad that the Volkswagen that everyone said would be plagued with problems in its old age is nearing 9 years old, 140 thousand miles and has only eaten up two front wheel bearings.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:15 pm

Probably a Canyon or Colorado, my wife and sister have trouble getting in anything that's high.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:16 pm

My ongoing project for now is fiberglassing the rear fender flares. I figure that a few dollars for fiberglass mat and resin is a lot cheaper than 500.00 ea. for new flares. Besides, there's not enough of the bed left to attach new flares to.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:22 pm

Weekend project was replacing the water pump, radiator, and installing an LS1 fan with flex-a-lite fan controller. Everything is working great! Wish I would've done it a year and 1/2 ago when I bought the stuff. Lol.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Wed May 13, 2015 1:18 pm

Finally got time to slow down and work on the truck. Intake gaskets, water pump, radiator, aluminum distributor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets, and spider. Hadn't planned on replacing the spider, but had a P0300 and it was the only thing left after diagnosis. The radiator was giving me fits until I found out that it was out of square. A little tweaking and it finally fit like it was supposed to. I hope it helps the gas mileage as I haven't been getting but about 12-14 mpg around town.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed May 13, 2015 7:54 pm

12-14 around town is normal for these trucks.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Wed May 13, 2015 8:01 pm

Until a couple of years ago, I was getting 15-16 round town, best mileage on the road has been almost 21, best I've been able to get in the last year or two has been about 18.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu May 14, 2015 7:47 am

If they recently started adding Ethanol, or more of it to your gas then that will cause the drop. My first gen 4x4 s10 i had before this one was getting 22-23mpg highway until they added ethanol and then it went to 19-20.

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Wed May 20, 2015 8:38 pm

Today...I drove my 2002 CC out of the shop, as a 5-speed. I've been wanting a 5-speed truck for a while now and got super lucky finding an NV3500 transmission out of a ZR2 Blazer write-off, and it only has 26,000 original kms on it. Price tag for the trans, clutch, flywheel, master cylinder and hydraulic line...$400 CAD

I couldn't pass that up cuz they're usually $800+ for ones with 200k on them. I'm super stoked!!! It just needs a little more fluid from Napa in the morning and I'm gonna put 500km on it tomorrow.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu May 21, 2015 5:02 am

How much did it cost to have that installed?

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:23 pm

I did all the work myself. Maybe 8-10 hours?? Found a How-to thread in the S-10 forum that was super easy to follow. I'm currently finding some computers from a 5-speed ZR2 tho so that the electrical is happier and my 31" tires agree better with my speedometer. It was a fun project. Would have been 2 hours shorter of a job if I had a body lift cuz getting the 5-speed to line up into the throw out bearing was almost impossible cuz the bell housing was hung up on the tunnel above it. But it's been a few weeks now, runs great! Lots of new sounds and shakes to get used to tho but I love it.

All said and done, I'm in it for maybe $450 so far for the trans/master cylinder/clutch/flywheel, steering wheel covers, and center console. I hope to get computers from a ZR2 blazer that a friend is parting out. I got stupid lucky with this transmission tho. $400 for a trans with only 26,000km original was crazy not to pass up. Especially when my automatic was on its last legs.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:28 am

That is a pretty good deal. My friend had a manual from a zr2 at his shop but didnt want to deal with putting it in my truck. We should have done it during my v8 swap.

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:45 am

So far I'm into the transmission swap for roughly $425 - $450. I did all the work myself following a How-to thread in the S-10 forum. Can send the link if you like and I'd be happy to help with any questions you might have if you do want to do the swap.

I'm getting ready to do a V8 swap as well and my original plan was to do the transmission and motor together to make it easier. But then my automatic decided it was getting much too tired to continue, so I jumped the gun and swapped the transmission so I could have a DD vehicle still. I'm in the process of rebuilding a V8 for it right now and once that's done and I get my swap kit in, I'm going to really work over my rig. It's gonna get:

- 5.7L V8
- 2" body lift
- ZR2 frame swap

It all seems a bit crazy but it's not my first frame swap, so I have a BIT of an idea of what I'm getting into. Ideally I'm going to have the entire drive train assembled and installed on the ZR2 frame that I have, and then just swap the body over on top of it all. I'd REALLY REALLY like to paint the thing too cuz the previous owner painted it with some cheap paint that's completely chalky now, but we'll see what life is doing when I get that far. I'm in the middle of building a mini S-rig right now and I'm going to try my hand at painting with it. If that goes really well, then I MAY attempt to paint the CC myself. Who know...

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:10 am

I would not do the zr2 frame swap since the front suspension seems to always end up rotting out and tearing the frame apart. Unless you have done some stuff to beef it up and protect it maybe.

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Fri Jun 12, 2015 10:03 pm

I would not do the zr2 frame swap since the front suspension seems to always end up rotting out and tearing the frame apart. Unless you have done some stuff to beef it up and protect it maybe.

I plan on beefing it up as much as I can. I haven't started to strip and prep the frame yet, so I'm still researching the best ways to strengthen those weak points. Because, I REALLY want the Z frame.

Both for the factory suspension lift, and so I can put in the longer CV axles to ease up the current geometry that my 2.5" RC suspension lift is creating. And...partially because there are only one or two others out there. Like with having the 5-speed in it now, I want my CC to be a thing of its own.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 9:31 pm

Id rather just do a solid axle swap. After seeing what I saw on a ZR2 from PA with only 89k on it, I just wouldnt want to put time in one of them frames to have it rot and break on me. The one I was under I think was a 2001 and it tore on both sides at the control arms where the mounts are on the frame.

You should already have longer CV axles on the ZR-2 frame already.

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:08 pm

You should already have longer CV axles on the ZR-2 frame already.

I don't have longer CVs yet as I'm still on the stock CC frame, so still short CVs. I've contemplated the SAS for a long time. Haven't the cash for it yet. That'll most likely be for my Franken-Z mini truck that I'm building. I don't want my CC to be ridiculously far off the ground, and I like the flexibility of the IFS for now. I have this Z frame sitting here doing nothing and so I have the chance to clean and beef it up while there's no truck on it. I can stand it on its side, inspect, drill, weld, plate, whatever I need to. And I don't plan on jumping it or anything like that. It's for some moderate mountain trails, bogging, plowing through 3 feet of snow with the chains on, hunting...things like that. I'm building a more serious trail rig onto a ZR2 Jimmy chassis and drivetrain that will be for a bit more serious abuse. And it'll be the only one on the planet.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:31 am

I know that, i meant when you move to the ZR2 frame, that will have the longer CV axles because the ZR2 does the rest of the trucks dont.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:55 am

Sfa swap doesn't have to be big:

I'm with approachnedium on this one, frame swap to get the longer cv's isn't worth the trouble. You'd be happier in the long run, and probably cheaper, easier, and better functioning, with a Dana 30/ford 8.8 combo.

MlePatron · Post by **MlePatron** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:44 pm

Cheaper? Not in my case. I'm $0 in and have all of the parts and frame already. The only expense will be a bit of time to sand blast the frame and some paint. This isn't my first trip to the frame swap park. My truck is getting a body lift to fit the V8 in more comfortably... I have everything I need to assemble the entire chassis and drivetrain onto the ZR2 frame without even turning a bolt on my CC. So, when I unbolt the body to do the body lift, there isn't that much more to undo to be able to just lift the cab right up, roll the frame out, swap the rear end over (cuz that's the only thing I don't have a double of) and then roll the Z frame under it, install the BL, do it all back up and be 4.5" happier.

Though I appreciate the concern and feedback, I'm going into this swap eyes wide open. I know what the Z frames do and how to repair and reinforce the poor factory welds and any cracks that may already exist in my donor frame...I've owned 7 different ZR2 Blazer/Jimmy/Pickups so far. Nothing will be new and I have plenty of connections if I do encounter any surprises that I can't handle. I'm doing it cuz I want to keep my IFS, don't want to not want to afford to go SFA with my CC cuz I don't want it THAT high, and the list goes on. My circumstance is probably different than most because I have everything already to do the swap and I'm in the black still for the project. If I wanted to go SFA, I'm still out close to if not more than a grand still to get everything that I would need, and after all that, I'd still have to lift the body off my frame to do the BL to fit my V8.

Sorry for the rant, I don't intend to sound like I'm brushing anyone off. I do appreciate the concern, it's just that my circumstance is such that I'm already sitting on parts to do this for free basically aside from my time. And all of this falls within what I'm comfortable doing myself without having to hire of beg someone to come weld in my SFA mounts etc.

Later, if I'm not happy with the IFS and I can find the funds, and want to go even taller with the Crew, then I'll look at the SFA. But it's not going to be my trail rig. Like said in a previous post, I'm building a different trail rig off of a ZR2 Jimmy chassis/drivetrain platform. It will for sure be getting a SFA when the time/funds permit.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:09 pm

Have you downloaded the upfitters manuals? Those have all the frame and mount specifications for both ZR2 and the crew cab. Nice planning tool.
I am all about IFS for my terrain. I had though seriously about long arm and a 9" - Porsche axled front. (Stewart racing S-10). The 1/2 or 3/4 ton IFS suspension swap is another thought , but custom axle shafts were problematic (Mike Copeland ZR2).

It will be fun to see what you come up with.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:39 am

Today I'm gonna clean my MAF and hopefully find time to change an O2 sensor. Got a check engine light and had 8 codes. Can't tell you guys what the code #s were but they were MAF and O2 sensor related.

On MAF, I recently swapped in a smaller k&n cone filter on the spectre intake tube. Got it, oiled it, read the box where it says comes pre oiled, kicked myself, bought some MAF cleaner. You know, you know

On O2 sensor, I recently acquired a wreck 2000 blazer, so gonna try to get the tractor down here, roll that sucker on its side, and get my new O2 sensor.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:52 am

LOL taking the easy way out!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:19 pm

Dag nabbit... They are different...

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 5:05 pm

While trying to get a state inspection this morning, found out that the spring shackle on the left side had rusted almost entirely away. $48.00 and three and a half hours later problem solved. It also got rid of the popping noise that had developed after I spent three days in May replacing a few things on the truck.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:28 pm

Put on a ladder rack. Don't really haul ladders but maybe I can find something else to throw up there

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:52 pm

jedthrocornpone wrote:Put on a ladder rack. Don't really haul ladders but maybe I can find something else to throw up there

Time for a canoe!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:04 pm

Got it running again finally today! Info is in my build thread for anyone that cares for some tidbits on annoying misfires.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:33 pm

not today but recently returned from 4,000 mile road trip.

from Oregon to,
Teton NP to,
Yellowstone NP to,
Denver and on to,
Woodland Springs Co,
rounded it out with a trip to Durango and north across the western slope.

tremendous fun was had by all, our RTT served us well and only had a few issues along the way. With a legal limit of 65mph here in Oregon..... its tough to test vehicle handling at 70+mph. So the addition of a rear sway bar was warranted and completed mid trip. more pics to follow

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 4:14 pm

It's with great sadness that I said goodbye to my crew yesterday. Too many things needing attention that I couldn't see spending any more money on it. It needed a complete exhaust, rear calipers were starting to stick, started to leak gas at the filler neck when filling up, and it developed a drive train vibration that I couldn't find. All that on top of the body work that was going to have to be redone. On the other hand, I found a 2012 Colorado with 26,000 miles on it. It seems to be pretty solid and quiet, a lot quieter than the Sonoma. Hopefully it will get better mileage than the old one which was going lower with every tank of gas.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:48 am

You had a great run! Enjoy the new ride, sounds like a good one

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 2:17 pm

I'll still be checking in about once a week, been here too long to quit cold turkey.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:18 pm

Update on the Colorado, highway mileage about 23 mpg, around town, around 17-17.5. Better power, and a much better ride. The only thing I don't care for is the after market radio. I'll try to find an OE radio which would suit me better.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:09 pm

Washed it and put some wax on the hood and roof yesterday. I was bad and did not wash it at all for the past few months. Working 6 days a week didnt give me much time for that. Today I sprayed some undercoat around the exhaust area and the heat shield to protect some surface rust and hopefully lessen the exhaust drone in the cab on highway speeds. I also somehow in my quest to make the reverse lights work again, fixed the ABS module. No more flashy lights or yellow light on the dash. I have a felling the reverse light switch will have to be replaced. It worked fine until we did the trans service.

Polished the headlights and turn signals to get some clearer lighting. It worked. Not that they were foggy much, the turn signals were, they seem better at night.

Some new surprise goodies are coming to this thing soon. After my GTI gets its exhaust completed and air suspension installed.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 4:57 am

Shiny

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:45 pm

The camera adds some shine i think. LOL. Yea it dont look too bad. Gonna loose the chrome bumpers soon for some fabbed steel off road bumpers. Should be interesting.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:35 am

Fuel pump at 132k. EVAP line is so rusted that goes back to the canister and cracked. Had to fix with some rubber fuel hose and clamps (Part is discontinued). Also cleaned up and painted the filler neck as I hear that is not longer available either.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Feb 24, 2017 10:45 pm

A lot happened with mine this week, while its been pretty quiet otherwise it struck 300k the other night while driving home from a friends. The night after, one of my zr5 wheels exploded and destroyed my right rear tire. Im now driving on the spare that hasnt seen use at least since 2009 when I got the truck. Now I am on the search for another ZR5 wheel since the tires are pretty much new, less than 10k on them. I am going to see what tire rack will do with the warranty. If they wont replace it ill just sell the 3 with tires cheap and get a whole new set of wheels and tires.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:25 pm

just installed drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads all around magnaflow " performance " ypipe got for 256 on ebay single converter version for a 2000 blazer 4x4.. fits perfectly everything was great for about a week or so.. but now my abs and brake light is on sometimes and off sometimes... googled and youtubed.. found out about a ground on the core support apparently for the abs system.. checked it out... no probs.. both front and rear abs sensors are getting intermittent readings and cant figure out why..

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:28 pm

replace the sensors. I have never ending problems with mine i just unplugged the ABS module because it cant comprehend my larger tires anyways.

pidjones · Post by **pidjones** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:43 am

Well, here is a short list of what I've done this summer:
1st, the AC had gone out, even though we had it serviced and a leaky pressure cycle switch replaced. I don't have proper gauges, just the single gauge for the charging rig, but was able to get the AC blowing cold again. Also purchased an TIF 5000 on eBay and found a small leak on the LP connection that was stopped just by tightening the dust cap.
2nd, replaced the parking brake actuator due to failed ratchet mechanism.
3rd, reflowed solder in ABS box. May have to revisit this.
4th, the fan would only run on 3 and 4. Replaced the fan resistor and fixed that.
5th, replace passenger side torsion bar link. The other side was replaced last year.
6th, the driver's side door had serious sag. Replaced the hing pins & bushings.
7th, 4wd has not worked for years (we have only used this truck to haul trash for the last five years). Replaced vacuum line from transfer case switch to actuator, from transfer case switch to atmosphere vent, and from transfer case switch to vacuum supply Tee. Only ~ 1 - 2 feet of hose remained as the rest had been eaten by varmints. HVAC and 4wd working as designed again!
Still remaining: get water out of driver's side headlight and fix fuel level gauge (maybe). Truck is driving nice right now, and I was very gratified when pulling the connector (chewed a little also) from the transfer case switch that there was no evidence of trany fluid in the line or connector - just LOTS of tooth marks.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 5:47 pm

If you have water in a headlight, just replace it. If you dont want to spend the pennies on the OEM ones from GM from a junky, Eagle Eyes is the only aftermarket chinatown marker I will buy them from. Mine are over 3 years old and no fading or fogging. Very much OE quality, and they actually have the reflector tips for the low beams. Even with basic halogen bulbs they worked very very well and got comments from any of my passengers on how well you could see.

pidjones · Post by **pidjones** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:31 pm

Well, THAT was easy! Easiest headlight assembly to remove that I've ever experienced. Two clips, ease it out, remove the two connectors and one (marker) bulb. Took it in the garage and used a bent coat hanger and paper towels to absorb most of the water, then air compressor to finish drying it. Lubed the bulb O-rings lightly before putting them back in (and cleaned them with isopropyl).

KnuckleheadS10 · Post by **KnuckleheadS10** » Sat Sep 23, 2017 4:18 pm

Not today, but last Saturday. Had the guys at Line-X make my crews bed all pretty again. (Url will have to do for now because the [img] bit doesn't appear to work)

http://imgur.com/7SZ0sgA

Took a while: thanks to the pop in liner I had a few cancer spots eating through the bed, so a shop across the street cut out the bad and welded in good. Then the Line-X guys hammered out a dent in the tailgate and covered the ZR5 bed bar holes with metal tape, and sprayed away!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:12 pm

Interesting. I still want to get mine line xed but im not sure i can justify the cost on a truck with the mileage i have now. As much as id like it to last forever I think a baby max zr2 may be replacing it when the next major failure happens.

KnuckleheadS10 · Post by **KnuckleheadS10** » Sat Sep 23, 2017 7:23 pm

I totally hear that. Mine has 110k on it all, so I plan to run the 4.3 for at least another 100 until I may drop in a v8.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:33 am

110k is not bad at all. That truck should last a long time as long as you can keep the rust away. Mine is a testament to how long these things will go if you take good care of them. I never thought id own a vehicle with over 300k on it but alas, its made it and i plan to push as much more out of it as i can.

KnuckleheadS10 · Post by **KnuckleheadS10** » Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:18 pm

Speaking of rust, have you (or anyone here) experienced rust eating at the drip rail underneath the front of the bed? That is the area where I had rust cut out from the bed, and I worry if I leave that area alone it may continue. Thinking of popping the bed off the frame and cutting that whole area off and welding in a new one.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Sep 25, 2017 7:23 am

My original bed was rotted really bad underneath and under the upper lip that was covered by the bedliner, so when i got my "new" bed which was totally rust free I kept the bedliner out at the expense of my now scratched to hell bed. I painted it over recently with rattle can spray liner.

KnuckleheadS10 · Post by **KnuckleheadS10** » Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:21 pm

I managed to dodge that since mine had the ZR5 rails, the pop in stopped before going over the lip on the sides and towards the front it had rubbed the paint down to raw metal and was starting to rust, but thankfully not much. I didn't do anything to the crew today, but did hear back from Line-X: all around the truck rocker spray would be 1150, and then an additional 250 to do inside the door sills. Seriously debating it - that area of the body is the one I see rotted out on 90% of the S-Series in my area, second to fenders and beds (one of which has stock fender flares covering it and the other has already been sprayed).