_STUCKY's junk

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_STUCKY
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Post by _STUCKY »

Image

:idea:
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Post by _STUCKY »

Small update...

Smoothed the bottom of the 14 bolt:

Image

Image

Had to do this to the pads, they didn't want to clear between the brake brackets and the rotor:

Image

Image

Image

Also got the open carrier from the guy on s10forum, and put the Detroit locker in it. I need to get new carrier bearings and put it in. The truck is in our shop and all my parts are in a pile next to it. I have everything cleaned up and ready to go in, I just need more hands.

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Post by _STUCKY »

Truck is clean and ready. I welded the winch mount on earlier. Hoping to take the IFS apart tomorrow. Also, it is 16.5 inches from the ground to bottom of the rocker panel under the drivers door. Oh, and discovered I have a broken pinion bearing in the 14 bolt, so that should be fun....

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Image

:thumb:
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No turning back now....

Post by _STUCKY »

Image

Image


Resale value, gone... And it wouldn't be a _STUCKY build without a smashed finger. Did it tossing wood in the stove. It was pretty awesome.

Image
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by HenryJ »

Save the stops! Someone needs them! ;)

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Post by _STUCKY »

Haha, yea. Also have the bilsteins, poly sway bar bushings, control arms have poly bushings, skid plates, wheels, and probably some other things I'm forgetting.
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by HenryJ »

A stack of pretty nice upgrades for someone :)

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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by ApproachMedium »

My bump stops dont exist anymore on my truck after 276k. I kinda rememeberd that after passing over a cross street too quickly in Bethlehem PA over the summer. LOL That hurt...
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Post by _STUCKY »

I'd suggest ditching the cups they sit in and bolting them solid. I may reuse the bump stops, don't know yet.

After I got home lastnight, I tried something I hadn't tried before. Took a needle, heated it up, and let it melt the top of my nail to relieve the pressure. Probably would have worked if I did it shortly after smashing it instead of like 5-6 hours later. Live and learn.

I don't plan on messing with the truck today, but I'll be on it all next week as far as I know. Before taking the front end apart, I googled "s10 ifs removal", the best advise I found was an old s10extremist link where a guy said something like "the hardest part of taking the ifs out is not setting the truck on fire", and I would say that is an accurate statement.

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:D
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Not much to report today, progress was pretty slow. Flipped the springs around, which pushed the axle forward about an inch. Ruined the u bolts taking them off, so had my old man grab some while in town, should have them on tomorrow. My u bolt flip idea is going to have to wait until after I get it rolling, too much going on at once to mess with that. Tracked down some hoses and wires and such that are getting eliminated, ifs related stuff. Had to do some clearancing on the driver side shackle mount, the way it's made to fit the bend in the frame, the shackle would rub the bolt head and the hanger. Drained the finger a bit, much better.

Pretty sure I'm going to be limited to 33s without a body lift. 255/85/16, which is about 33x10.5, looks like it may be a good fit. That size is available in Toyo mt and bfg km2, and a few others. I need to find a 2wd y pipe. I haven't figured out a part number for a replacement rear shackle bushing yet. Thinking about maybe finding some 97+ f150 springs for the rear, the dodge ones may be too long, f150 should give it an inch stretch in the rear. Might need some degree shims for the front. Need to just keep plugging away. It's coming together, just slowly.

Anyone know if our tcases have the 1 or 1.25 inch chain? I should be able to rob the chain and gear from the Dakota case if ours are 1, dakota case was 1.25.

Edit: Oh yea, that pic is with the truck sitting on its own weight. That should be about ride height :thumb:
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Post by _STUCKY »

I've had complications and delays.... But here's a fresh pic :D

Image

Tire is 30 inches tall. Bottom of rocker panel is 22 inches. Looks like a 33 will fit pretty well without a body lift or more cutting. It's starting to come together.

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Post by _STUCKY »

I haven't had much time to work on this. Monday I borrowed a power steering pump pulley removal tool. Tuesday I messed with putting on the new pump. Everything went ok until I was cleaning up and noticed a package of o rings in the box.... Whoopsy... I didn't get a chance to get back on it until yesterday. But anyways, I have the new pump and steering box in. Lost a clip for the battery tray, and also have a new battery, since I dropped mine taking it out and busted the corner. I'm hoping to move onto the transfer case and rear axle next week. I was planning on ordering some parts last week, but that didn't happen.

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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by mfulaytar »

looking great. makes me wish i had the knowledge, resources, and mechanical ability to do this.
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Post by _STUCKY »

mfulaytar wrote:looking great. makes me wish i had the knowledge, resources, and mechanical ability to do this.

Thanks. I also wish I had the knowledge, resources, and mechanical ability to do this, haha. Probably better add time in there too if we are wishing for things. :lol:

But it's not that bad really. Mostly just replacing parts. Tricky part is finding what will work. Admittedly, I could be doing things much simpler. I'm trying to do some things to keep it simple in the long run. Such as making both driveshafts use the same u joints, so I can stock less part numbers for spares. Or having the knuckles drilled for high steer arms, in case I go spring over later. I do wish the front axle was pushed forward a little bit more, and I'm not real wild about the shackle angle, but it all looks like it will work fine.

But anywho, I ordered some parts. Got a 2wd y pipe, should tuck up to the transmission better. Ruffstuff perches and pinion guard for the 14 bolt, and what they are calling "the cure" for the steering (poly spacer doodad, supposed to control roll of the draglink at the tierod). Need to set it on its weight on the rear axle, but what I had planned (cutthroat4x4 u bolt eliminator) won't work for mock up, nothing to clamp the axle to the springs. Also a new yoke for the 14 bolt that uses u bolts instead of straps, and pinion bearings and races and a seal. Got the transfer case pulled today, taking it to my buddy's shop tomorrow to rip into it. I know I need 1 seal for it, but hopefully I have everything else...hopefully lol. Oh and probably better do the revised t case switch while I'm in there.

Do have 1 question though. Haven't had extra eyes to trace it yet, but the vacuum hose that is routed to the gizmo under the battery, where is the other end of that? I tracked it to the trans dipstick and then I lose it at the firewall. I'm thinking it goes to the tcase. I'm assuming I can just plug it, please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by HenryJ »

Yep, it goes to the transfercase vacuum switch :) . Three lines on that switch. Vacuum, vent and your line to the actuator.

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Post by _STUCKY »

Thanks HJ
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Post by ApproachMedium »

Yup. I just replaced mine because after 277k it broke apart lol. Was fun figuring out where it goes and that it was pretty much above my headers taking all that heat. I would imagine since you are not using it all of those lines could be removed and you wont have to worry about the trans fluid getting sucked back up thru all your HVAC controls anymore.
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Post by _STUCKY »

I was actually thinking exactly that after I last posted. HJ, any reason I can't just plug it?

On a slightly related note... I need to aquire yet another transfer case. Some of the Dakota parts won't work for me. I don't know exact names of parts in the cases, so let's just say some doodads are different sizes than other doodads and the shift fork from the Dakota case is screwed up.... I had a 241c, 243c, 231d, and 233c all scattered on the floor today.

So the current plan is find a 1st gen 231 or 233, pull the main shaft sprocket, chain, and front output shaft, then use the Dakota flange on the front output. Google tells me 23x front output is 26 spline and that the 1st gen s10 cases should have a wide chain.
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Post by HenryJ »

_STUCKY wrote:I was actually thinking exactly that after I last posted. HJ, any reason I can't just plug it?...
You bet! ...Or better yet follow it to the source and cap it there eliminating the potential to suck transfercase fluid into the system :) You will no longer have a need for that function.

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Post by _STUCKY »

HenryJ wrote:You bet! ... :) You will no longer have a need for that function.
:rock:

Image

By noon today I was driving to get a 94 233c for 90$. Got back to my buddy's shop about 2 and was buttoning it up about 4:45. Yet, the hunt continues.... Neither of the flanges I planned to use will work... The 97 231d flange is too big around and hits the shift motor, the 87 208c flange is too long and hits the bearing behind the rear seal. So it looks like I'm going with 1350 yokes. Found a plug at Napa for the vacuum switch. Only other thing it needs is a front output seal and put it back in.

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Post by _STUCKY »

Ordered a 1350 ubolt style yoke for the front output of the tcase from these guys (part# 90-3544):

http://www.coastdriveline.com/DrivelineParts.htm

Jbconversions is closed on Fridays, so gonna have to call Monday for a rear yoke. Now all driveshaft ujoints will be 1350 and all yokes will be ubolt style.
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I've now got a yoke for then back of the tcase and a crush sleeve for the 14 bolt coming. Been thinking about exhuast today. I've already got the flowmaster and 3 inch pipe from the cat back. I have a 2wd y pipe waiting to go on. The precat has been cut out to get the spring mount onto the frame. So the question is, should I go ahead and exnay the cat while I'm there? I don't have emissions testing.

Adding this here for future reference. Somewhere in there, there's some great info on both axles and the transfer case:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html
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Post by _STUCKY »

Made a little bit of progress today. Got the tcase put back in, got the ord tcase crossmember put in, pulled the y pipe, reroute some wires, pulled the vacuum hoses from the tcase switch, and a couple other piddly things. I should have gotten a box today, got an email that said it was delivered, but I see no new boxes...

Sorry for the lack of pics. My phone likes to die after I take pics. But here's a comparison shot of the y pipes. Part number is walker #50204

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-50204

Image
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Post by _STUCKY »

It's like Christmas on a Thursday! Finally got my box from ruffstuff. It was stuck in St. Louis... I'm about to dig into the 14b's ring and pinion. That link I posted ^ up there has a pdf file from the military service manual so I should be good to go.

:thumb:
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Image

Is this stock? I'm assuming it's corn grease :lol:

The yoke for the front of the tcase was at the house when I got home.
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Post by HenryJ »

Just there to keep the squirrels quiet inside ;)

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Post by _STUCKY »

Image

Took 425 ft lbs to get the crush sleeve to spec. I'm hoping I can get the rear ring and pinion set early next week. Needless to say, there have been delays.

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So I figure I could explain that last pic. I was crushing the crush sleeve. It's a bit of a bear to hold, so what I ended up with was the pinion retainer in the vice with 2 pieces of wood, a pipe wrench on the yoke, and the torque wrench. I had to go a little further with it today, went to 450 ft lbs to get the rotating torque in spec.

I snapped another pic today of how I tightened the ring gear bolts. I set the carrier on jack stands close to the axle, found an old center pin that fit in the carrier to hold it against the axle tube, and torqued them down. Pic:

Image

I got to the point of putting paint on the teeth and checking the pattern before I had to go, fingers crossed I don't have to take it apart again. In other news, jbconversions has, for the second time, not sent me the yoke I ordered, so need to deal with that tomorrow too. Things are slow, but I keep plugging away.

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Image

Well, I got the axle swapped in. It may be hard to tell from the pic (floor slopes down toward the back of the truck) but it seems to sit about 2 inches high out back. Progress is progress.

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Image

Pulled the 2 short leaves out of the Boise kit. This should be ride height, plus about 1.5 when I get tires. The rear is 1.25 inches higher than the front.
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Well, I'm getting frustrated with jbconversions. They have now sent me the wrong yoke for the tcase for the 3rd time. The guy I talked to the first time informed me that I did indeed order the correct yoke. They keep sending the wrong part number. Messaged high angle driveline on pirate to see if they can make it.

I started plumbing the brakes. I'm not too far into it yet. Ended up finding a set of extended front yj lines in my pile that seem to fit better than the k20 lines I planned to use.
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Well, I got the front brakes plumbed. Need to do some thinking on the rear lines. I'm hoping to finish the rear this weekend. Messed around with the shock mounts from the ord kit, I'm not sure if I'll use them.

High angle driveline on pirate said they can do the yoke, but it's forged instead of cast. Also, got half the spring bushing spacers for the ord kit.
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I must do my best thinking in my sleep. I woke up about 3 last night with an epiphany on how to do the brake lines. Just need to figure out how to make what's in my head happen.
:runforhills:
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Post by ApproachMedium »

_STUCKY wrote:I must do my best thinking in my sleep. I woke up about 3 last night with an epiphany on how to do the brake lines. Just need to figure out how to make what's in my head happen.
:runforhills:

Dont you love it when that happens? And then you want to run out there and start working on it again. lol
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Post by _STUCKY »

:lol: Yea, I was out there early today. Almost done now. But then again, I thought I was almost done yesterday.
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Brakes are all plumbed. Steering is next. I'm running out of time before we will be getting in the fields. Not too far from being mobile.

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I didn't get a whole lot done today. What did happen though was I found a clip for my battery tray and put that all back together.... But somehow I screwed up the neg side post on my new battery, so gonna have to stop by tomorrow and see if I can get another. I put the grill and bumper back on. I'll be able to close the hood after I put a battery in. Still need a few odds and ends but I'm pretty much done tinkering under the hood. Got the DOM for the tierod cut. Mocked it up and looks like I'll be fine without a drop pitman arm. The pic is with it on the lift and a pipe I had around just to see the angle. Also cut part of the crossmember out and took the steering box off so I can pull the pitman arm and take it to get reamed for the tierod. Like my buddy keeps telling me, progress is progress.

:wave:

Image

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Post by _STUCKY »

Image

It's not a real good pic, but I've spent probably 8-10 hours with a pair of grinders, some cutoff wheels, some flap wheels, and of course a sawzall taking out the crossmember and other brackets. If I can get the ord shock hoops in, I might leave the rest.

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Image

Image
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I didn't do anything to the truck today, didn't even look at it. Bought some engine degreaser though. I'm waiting on another tcase yoke and the pitman arm to get reamed out. I'm really pleased with the stance the truck has in that last pic.
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I wish I didnt look at mine today. I am about to push it off a cliff.
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Post by _STUCKY »

ApproachMedium wrote:I wish I didnt look at mine today. I am about to push it off a cliff.
Did you get it fixed?

So I really didn't like how the ord shock hoops were fitting:

Image

So this happened:

Image

I'm getting faster. Tomorrow I'm attacking the passenger side.
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Post by ApproachMedium »

It was fixed. It runs now, just like a total crock of crap. Waiting on a new cable to arrive for the Tech 2 so I can do some magic. I hope.

Looks good. Make sure you get some POR 15 and paint topcoat on all that bare metal or something. Looks good now, will rust to hell later lol.
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I'm planning to just paint it flat black. I used some degreaser that didn't turn out too well for the rustoleum paint I've been using. Everything go all tacky. And I've been painting everything with it.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Image

Image

Image

And for comparison sake....

Image
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Image

:rock:
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Post by _STUCKY »

Well, things have slowed down. We started in the field a couple days ago. Truck isn't drivable yet, but very close. Exhuast is hooked back up, driveshafts are in, alignment is on Wednesday, I need to address shocks, and a few other minor things.

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Image

Well... I drove it today. :rock:
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Post by ApproachMedium »

Nice!! Good job. Now, how much of it works and what doesnt at the moment? LOL Glad to hear you can drive it now. Woohooo!
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Post by _STUCKY »

Things that need fixin' include but are not limited to:

Needs longer pitman arm to turn full lock to lock. Shorter dragline may help too.
Still needs front shocks/mounts addressed.
Looks like one rear shock is already leaking (been in a box for 3 years, and aren't made any more)
Grease the steering.


Other than that, it seems to be alright. I played a little in the yard last night after dark and may or may not have gotten it semi stuck in the mud and had to use the winch. It's nice to be behind the wheel of it again, but it feels huge Offroad, mostly from the length of the truck though, not so much height or width.
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Post by ApproachMedium »

Yea these trucks are pretty long. They dont look it right away. Its def no jeep or 2 door blazer which you are probably used to.
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_STUCKY
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Post by _STUCKY »

Well I'm fairly used to driving fullsize trucks, but not so much used to off-roading something this long. It will take some getting used to. There will be advantages and disadvantages.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Thanks for getting the site back up! :rock: I encourage everyone that uses this site to post more. Questions, answers and pics. We need a lot more pics.

Here's my contribution.... I'm making progress.... You can click the pics to see the full image.

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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by jedthrocornpone »

Might have missed it are those 33 or 35's?
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Post by _STUCKY »

They are 255/85/16. According to bfg, 33.3x10. Wal mart had the best price at 226 each.
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Post by _STUCKY »

So I think my fuel pump is dying. When I go to start it, let's say I haven't been driving it, motor is cool, it will crank and crank, but not start. If I crank it for a few seconds, then stop, then immediately crank again, it will start just fine. If it has been sitting for just a little while, engine warm, it usually starts right up. I haven't been stranded yet, and it's not a new issue, it was doing this for a while before the axle swap. Sound like a fuel pump? If so, what is the pump of choice?
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by ApproachMedium »

I had this problem with my truck when I bought it. Its usually the check valve on the fuel pump. Do yourself a favor and buy the AC Delco one off RockAuto.com. They sell them for a good price and its one of the best ones. I just put one in mine after 5 years of the Airtex one that finally died.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Alight. Thanks. I'm debating on whether to go ahead and order one or wait for it to die.
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Post by ApproachMedium »

_STUCKY wrote:Alight. Thanks. I'm debating on whether to go ahead and order one or wait for it to die.
To quote dave "drive it till she busts" For my truck that problem went for almost 2 years before i replaced it. its annoying eventually it will cause the truck to misfire.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Well, as far as functionality in regards to the axle swap, I'm calling it complete. As we all know, there's always a never ending cycle of messing with stuff. New shocks (5100 series Bilsteins) are the newest addition. Lighting up the night sky is next on the to do list. I also need to come up with something for rocker protection. Planning to take it to Attica for its first real test next weekend. Onto the pics:

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On a side note I have a strap on the front soft lines because they were rubbing the tires, I need to come up with something different.
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by ApproachMedium »

Get the rockers done with Line-x
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Post by _STUCKY »

Attica bound! Come wheelin' with me! :D

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Post by _STUCKY »

Lockers are awesome :thumb:


v clicky v
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by jedthrocornpone »

Sweeeeet
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Post by _STUCKY »

Started a new project. It's not quite done yet, but it's alot better than what was there. It was only me and my dad working on it.

Wednesday:
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Thursday:
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Friday:
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Saturday:
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by ApproachMedium »

Nice!
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Post by _STUCKY »

Here's some more pics. Any questions, just ask :wave:

In no particular order, some from Attica, some from local mud park, some of new things...

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^this guy was not impressed lol

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^not mine. Neighbor bought it for 1100$ with 160,000 miles, and wants me to help "copy" mine. Sounds like he wants same axles, wheels, and tires haha. It'll be like the ugly beat up twin if that happens. So there may be a set of zr5 wheels, steps and rails available in the future, I'll make sure you guys et first dibs.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Image
Last edited by _STUCKY on Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by ApproachMedium »

Nice stuff. Where did you get that switch panel from? I need something like that.
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Post by _STUCKY »

I made it lol.

I think it was 16 gauge steel, I covered it in 3m carbon fiber look vinyl wrap, cut the holes with my dremil, and filled it with contura V switches.
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Re: _STUCKY's junk

Post by Built2Bend »

That switch panel is really cool. Id like to do something similar. That would be great for my roof led bar I have. And am sainting to install

Do you plan on building rock sliders for it?
And if so would you be interested in building a couple extra sets to sell. I'd be interested(I want sliders but have no way to bend tube.

By the way awsome truck one day I hope no sas mine like yours.
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Post by _STUCKY »

At some point I would like to build some, but honestly my welding skills are very lacking. I have to rely on other people when I need welding. But I do have a buddy with a bender, it's just hard to get him to work on anything that's not his. What I'd really like to do instead of sliders, is kinda like a mini boat side. Basically take out everything from the door seam down, but like I said, I don't have the welding skills. I'm starting to get a rust spot under the back pass door, with mini boat sides that would get cut out.
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Post by _STUCKY »

Anyone still paying attention?
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Post by HenryJ »

_STUCKY wrote:Anyone still paying attention?
:eyes:

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