_STUCKY's junk

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 18, 2014 6:13 am

_STUCKY wrote:... I still don't know why my pics are so big. It's not showing the whole thing. What do I need to do?

Resizing the pictures for the web is the best thing you can do. Then they show up the correct size for everyone. 640x480 at 300dpi is huge for the web. Yours are easily three times that.
GIMP (Grapics Image Manipulation Program) is a good open-source image editor. Pretty easy to edit the image size. There are others out there too.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun May 18, 2014 7:28 am

What size do they need to be? As in, whatXwhat? I'm using an iPhone 5 for the pics, uploading to photobucket app, and pasting the link. I did see something about resizing them, but I have no idea what size to put in.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun May 18, 2014 9:55 am

You are using photobucket, usually you can just post the thumbnail link or there is a fulsize link. It looks like the whole picture to me on my computer but that could be because i have a full HD monitor. Smaller resolution displays the forum i think crops the images.

If you need anymore fancy automotive relays for any of your projects i have a pile of very good ones in the garage.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue May 20, 2014 4:09 pm

Got my new master cylinder and proportioning valve on today. Deleted the abs nonsense too. Master cylinder is an 80 trans am with 4 wheel disk brakes, and the prop valve was from Baer. I wish I'd have done this when I swapped axles like 4 years ago.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue May 20, 2014 9:49 pm

If you need anymore fancy automotive relays for any of your projects i have a pile of very good ones in the garage.

Will do. I've only got 1 more of those brackets left. Pulled 3 of them from behind the glove box of 88-98 Chevy trucks. Wired up 2 of them to work with the blazer switch and led lights for the bed on the s10. Thought I screwed up the first one, redid it and it worked the same lol. I have a link saved on something to wire the k5's windows with relays to make them go at up and down at a normal speed. They are currently very slow lol

Edit:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread ... wer+window

Found it. Also I see in that pic of the master cylinder that I should have ran the red wire (powering the relays for the headlights) to the distribution block on the firewall.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed May 21, 2014 12:25 pm

The one pack of relays I have is either 4 or 5 units mounted to some thing. Its in the garage. Its of zero use to me so just send me a shout and ill ship it out. LOL

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:15 pm

Since we left off last time...

I have taken the k5 to flat nasty and the badlands. Damages include broken exhuast hangers, broken top, and some body damage. Truck seems to be running good though.

The van has a fresh Vortec 5.7. It wasn't cheap, but runs flawlessly. I don't want another situation on the side of the interstate.

The Comanche won't start, I think it's a fuel pump issue. It does have the 35s on it with fresh tubes in all 4.

The yj still is not fixed. I have ordered an install kit for the 8.8 so I can put the 4.88 gears in. Currently I don't know of anything else I need to buy for it, there's probably something though.

I also acquired another project... A 92 c1500 w/t. Plan is to pull the Tbi 5.7 and rear leaves from the 87 k5 and the th400/np205/d60/d70 from the 79 k30. Going to leave the front dually width and swap srw 14 hubs onto the d70. It is going to be big and wide. This will be after fixing all the other junk and the s10 axle swap. Plan is to copy this:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/gene ... ackle.html

As far as the s10 goes, I'm getting a lot closer to starting the axle swap. I plan to buy the Jana kit to install jk gears this week. I also plan to start gathering the brake parts this week, if I can get to town before napa closes. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is going out, it's hesitating to start. I've been rocking around with no ol man topper too. Took it off to haul wood and just left it off. Also, today I acquired a set of the bow tie center caps. Had to modify them to get them to fit. I'm not 100% happy with them, but they are tempory until the axle swap. Pic:

Sorry for the huge pic. Still haven't figured that out...

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:32 pm

Center caps look good!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 6:20 pm

Well I gathered some parts this week. I got 2 rotors, a left and right caliper, 4 of the 5 soft lines (haven't figured out what I need for the frame to rear axle soft line), banjo bolts, 16 wheel studs for the rear axle, ball joints, and a set of hd wheels.

All the brakes will be 3/4 ton 4x4 front parts, I used 86 as the year. I just got stock k20 front lines. The lines for the rear are 98 Monte Carlo with disk brakes rear soft lines. For the wheel studs, basically there is no "perfect" stud for my needs. I have about gone mad searching for studs for the front. Stock k20 front studs are barely long enough to go through the wheels, usable but not desirable.

A few months ago, I dumped out my tub of molasses with parts soaking. They all looked great, but I didn't paint them then and they got surface rust again. So yesterday I stuck the front hubs back in the goop. I need to knock the bearings out of the rear hubs, clean the grease out, and drop them in there too.

So things I know I still need now are.....
2 more rotors
2 more calipers
Brake pads
Soft line from frame to axle
Jana kit for putting jk gears in wagoneer axle
Front wheel studs
Lug nuts
U joints
Fitting to put oil filter on the block
Seals and bearings for the rear axle
Shocks
Ruff stuff y link steering (I'll use the stock wagoneer steering to start with)

As far as tires go, my dad has a a set of 6 he got for his dually, but they were too wide and rubbed. Plan is to use them until I figure out what size I will be shooting for. My list is getting smaller...

I'll post up part numbers after I figure out if that stuff will all work together. It's fun gathering parts for hodgepodge axles

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:10 pm

I got the wheel studs figured out.

First pic is the front. Short stud is a stock replacement. The longer one is dorman # 610-301 belkamp # 641-3169. Stock stud only had 1/2 inch of threads past the wheel.

Second pic is the rear. These are stock replacement studs. Dorman # 610-194 belkamp # 641-1066

Lug nuts are next on the to get list

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:10 pm

Just ordered 40 of these:

http://www.ezaccessory.com/Open_End_Bul ... m?CartID=1

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:08 am

Not much of an update, but I dumped out the molasses because it's too hot and was getting bugs in it. But check out how good it works. This has very little elbow grease into taking the rust off. All I did was clean the grease out with a rag, lightly wire brushed it, set it in the molasses for a couple weeks, then pulled it out and hosed it off. Not too shabby if you aren't in a hurry. I don't think I'll be using this method anymore during the hottest months of the summer though.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:14 am

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Ruffstuff is having a 20% off sale for Labor Day. I don't know if I can resist...

Edit: I couldn't resist... Ordered shock tabs also

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:07 am

_STUCKY wrote: So things I know I still need now are.....
2 more rotors
2 more calipers
Brake pads
Soft line from frame to axle
Jana kit for putting jk gears in wagoneer axle
Front wheel studs
Lug nuts
U joints
Fitting to put oil filter on the block
Seals and bearings for the rear axle
Shocks
Ruff stuff y link steering (I'll use the stock wagoneer steering to start with)

So things I know I still need now are.....
2 more calipers
Brake pads
Soft line from frame to axle
Jana kit for putting jk gears in wagoneer axle
U joints
Fitting to put oil filter on the block
Seals and bearings for the rear axle
Shocks

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Sep 04, 2014 11:33 pm

The exhaust on the k5 got tweaked on a rock when I took it to flat nasty. It's been rubbing the transfer case and the front passenger side spring hanger. It was stock manifolds with glass packs. So ordered a stock replacement y pipe and am going back to single exhaust. I got everything taken off today, should have the y pipe on in the morning. It will get a muffler next week sometime. Going with 3 inch pipe.

For the s10, I got the ruff stuff steering today. Pure beef. And 1/2 the price of stock wagoneer replacement parts. I pulled the Dana 44 out of the wagoneer frame and rolled it up to the shed. I'm pretty sure I have about everything expect the gear swap stuff for the front. For the rear axle, I either didn't get, or can't find, the bolts that hold the caliper brackets on. I've only found 6 locally so far. Don't know of anything else I need for the rear.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:05 am

Not done yet....

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:42 am

Ok guys, I need some inspiration....

I was working on wiring up the winch last night and was planning to put the button from the controller inside. After doing some reading on the jeep forums, I decided leave the controller alone (well, put it back together lol) and wire up my own buttons inside. Problem is, there isn't a lot of room inside. I am thinking cd tray and/or coin holder delete plates. However, I cannot find many pics of how others have done it. Please post up some pics for me to copy. I have the blazer switch to the left of the radio for my bed lights, so don't want to change it. I could use the blazer switch for my master power to the winch, but need to add an on/off/on switch or 2 momentary buttons.

I got my cab and chassis 14 bolt all cleaned up. Shock tabs and spring perches are ground off. Hubs, rotors, disk brake brackets, and tires are bolted on. Paint and primer are sprayed. I have a roller axle now.

I have some pretty trick stuff planned for my spring perches on both axles. Plan is max ground clearance with springs under the axles, using square u bolts. Hopefully, what is in my head will make it to the axle and work out well.

Edit: forgot to add that I ordered d cell mag light holders for the license plate. Should have it on later today. I had it zip tied on

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:30 am

Wasnt there a way that Brule used a Homelink button to wirelessly run the winch? I could think of a few places to put it you just would have to get very crafty with the center console, and I would need to see what this looks like.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:35 am

I was thinking there was talk of using the homelink buttons, but I don't have them. When I put the bravada stuff in, I swapped the guts into my console. I'll get a pic shortly.

Edit:

See it's been cut when the sunroof was put in. Yea, ....15 Mpgs

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:30 pm

Linky no worky.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:52 pm

Well I got the winch all wired up, except the in cab controls. And I just ordered some buttons to do that. My phone isn't cooperating on the pics...

Solenoid box is on passenger side of the core support. Plug is next to the air filter under the hood. I can plug the controller in, run it out the back of the hood, and close the hood. For the soon to be in cab controls, I might be taking the blazer switch out and putting the blank back in. I ordered a switch that *should* let me eliminate the relays and blazer switch running my bed lights. If that works, winch controls are going in the blank (1 lighted on/off toggle, 2 momentary push buttons) and the new button for the bed lights (it says "click on/ click off") will go on the light switch to the left of the steering wheel.

Here's the button I ordered for the bed lights:
https://www.parts-express.com/spst-roun ... f--060-620

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Sep 23, 2014 10:24 am

I guess I'll put up a pic of the winch:

I haven't used it yet. The k5 ended up with a flowmaster look alike, 3 inch in and out. Sounds better than the dual glass packs. Put the full top back on it. Put in a JVC stereo with USB and aux in, 75$ at Wally World. Figured while I was at it, and the wires were all there, may as well toss in an amp and a 12 I got for nothing from a buddy.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Oct 02, 2014 1:29 am

So trucks gone wild is doing an event this weekend at south fork dirt riders in taylorville, il. I've been planning to take the k5 with the girlfriend and her son. I was pretty sure it was good to go until I blew a head gasket last week....

So Sunday I used the winch on the s10 to pull it out of the shed, then pulled it to our shop. Used a tractor and a tire to push it in. Then proceeded to tear it apart. Monday night I cleaned everything up. Tuesday night we got it mostly put back together. Then tonight we finished it and drove my helper home in it. The kick down cable for the trans needs adjusted but it's all good to go. While under there I put an AC delete pulley on, took out a bunch of useless brackets and such, fixed a couple little things like wiring and missing bolts, new plugs, used cap and rotor (not sure why it was running with what was in there, rusty contacts), oil change, studs for the water pump pulley. I like having 3 complete parts trucks.

Now hopefully I make it to TGW... And make it home lol. Plan was drive it, but might trailer it now. Also in the plan is for the girlfriend and little one to follow me over in the s10 so they can leave if they get grumpy. I don't plan to get too wild with either truck, but I might take the s10 out a little bit, you know, to test the winch more...

So anywho... It's been a long few days. Been working 7 days a week and I lost a lot of beauty sleep to fix the k5. I'm ready to go wheelin'!

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:11 pm

Pics if you go!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Oct 03, 2014 6:26 pm

blaz wrote:Pics if you go!

Ooooh I'm going. I'm taking my old phone to takes pics with. Hopefully they show up correctly on here. Come on down!

So the kick down cable got adjusted and it's shifting correctly. I was having an idle issue. Unplug the idle air control and it would calm down almost immediately. I grabbed an old throttle body out of the back of my buddies truck and swapped the sensor doodad and all is well. I'm also crossing my fingers and driving the blazer over there. I've put 100 or more miles on it since fixing the head gasket and it seems to be running great right now.

Both trucks are cleaned out, topped off on all fluids, gassed up, and partially loaded up. I'm only about 45 minutes away so not taking much.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:08 pm

I think this guy skipped right over the MML

My jeep buddy acquired tractor tires

On a side note, the little guy, who is autistic, did great. Only time he has been off road before was just kinda in the yard and he didn't seem to like it. But he loves riding in the blazer. We put him in a booster seat in the front seat (better seat belt, girlfriend could easily lean up and calm him down if needed, and I wasn't drivng crazy). Only time he got upset was when we got out. A rather large mud buggy with a nasty motor drove by and was feathering the throttle, little guy did not enjoy that.

I've got more pics but it looks to me like they are uploading in a very low quality. What you guys think? Use the older phone for pics (appears low quality to me) or newer phone (doesn't display all of the pic)?

Oh... And my s10 had no business being there lol. It stayed mostly clean.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 11:00 pm

Better off with the newer one, just post the thumbnails here. If i click on them I can see the full size on the website. When I click these, its still just as small.

Glad to hear the little guy enjoyed it.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:15 pm

Junkyard score!

Well I went to a fairly new local junkyard yesterday with about 1100 pounds of crap. Boise spring works kit handled the load flawlessly. They have about 10 s series trucks currently so I went back today with tools. For $100 I walked away with:

Mid 90s mustang overflow tank for my yj, already have a tuarus fan to swap in.
2000 Plymouth breeze dual electric fans for the k5. Should work

Leather rear door panels from 95-97 or whatever jimmy for the s10
Blazer tailgate switch and center console tray from a 98-99 or so blazer
Throttle position sensor from an s10 with Tbi for my k5 (I called it the wrong thing a couple posts up, fixed now)
And some middle row captains chairs from a Pontiac Montana (I think) hopefully for the van

I also took the 6 cab mount bolts out of an extended cab s10 and will be going back to get it sometime in the near future. I wanted to make sure I could turn them all without breaking them. I've been trying to find a cab with good cab mounts to swap onto the k5, and it looks like I found it. Needs a rear window and has some rust but for what I intend to do with it, it should work perfect. Not sure the year but it's a round body s10 without the 3rd door.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:36 pm

Sounds like a great day! Lots of good stuff to keep you busy

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Wed Oct 15, 2014 4:53 pm

Junkyards out there are so much cheaper. I really should be driving west to get my parts. Out here it costed me 100 bucks just for a hood thats not even perfect.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:36 am

Well this place isn't an auto salvage yard. It's a recycler type place. You know, take your cans and junk to him. He just lines vehicles up around the fence until they get in the way. It is now my new favorite parts place haha.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:40 am

Oh wow thats interesting lol

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:49 am

I'm pretty sure I spotted a homelink console that was intact, if anyone is interested. It was in the jimmy I got the rear door panels out of. There was another but it was trashed. Harness might still be good though.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Oct 16, 2014 1:06 pm

I would be interested in the harness so I can get rid of the mess that I made possibly. What year is both homelink consoles out of? I want to find one for a 98/99 to put in my friends blazer.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:12 am

Sorry, I missed that post ^. I haven't had time to get back in there, but when I do, I'll see what I come up with. Don't remember the years specifically, but the 95-97 jimmy I got the door panels out of did have homelink.

So the other day, the girlfriends gpa calls me wanting a front skid plate for an s10, which I had for him. I wasn't too excited about it until I saw his truck yesterday. He bought an 03 crew cab with, wait for it..... 33,000 miles.... For $11,000. I'm jealous. Non z, 3.42s, g80, base interior, white, and pretty clean. He said it was some security truck out of Washington, D.C. So anyways, I threw a front skid plate on it for him and sold him the other 2, but didn't have brackets for second one or bolts for 3rd one (his son is a welder, so wasn't concerned with brackets). Also his drivers seat is worn out from the driver carrying a pistol, and the door panel is all jinkity janked and had wood screws in it, however... I have both my stock seats and door panels for him too. He was tickled that I'm a pack rat lol

Nothing really new to report though. Haven't had any time. We just finished harvest late last week, and started chisel plowing fields. The k5 is still running great, but it's getting cold and I haven't put the back window back in yet. The s10 is getting dreadfully close to my 100,000 mile deadline I set for myself for the axle swap, only about 1500 miles left. Also I think it has a caliper dragging and making noise. I've been driving it very little for those 2 reasons. About the only real progress I've made on any of my projects lately is running lights and electricity out to my little shed. I also am currently trying to build a work bench out there. I got a good start on it last night. It's going to be L shaped, 5x2 feet and 3x8 feet, then at the end, I set it up so my miter saw will sit flush with the top of the bench, then there will be either 2x3 or 3x3 feet after that. I made it tall enough that on most of it you can sit on a stool with your legs under it. It'll have old upper kitchen cabinets above it, and shelves under. May try my hand at building drawers. I used a lot of used wood. The top will be 3/4 plywood. So far I got the basic main structure of it done, and it's surprisingly level and square.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:42 am

PICS!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:04 am

Well it's, I think, an old hog shed. Last person who lived here had it sorta set up for a horse. I, however, have been squeezing my blazer in it.

So it was full of junk I wanted gone. Old appliances, junk wood, junk cabinets, ect ect. You know, junk. I basically scrapped some, burned some, keep some of the wood and cabinets, but cleared it out. Well then it was empty and all my tools were scattered on the floor. So I threw together this first jalopy of a bench. It's purpose was just to get everything off the floor. Built for almost 0$. I have my doubts it is square or level:

Now this next one started as wanting to build some racks for plastic totes and general storage. So I went to the pawn shop and bought a craftsman miter saw for 40$, then went and got plywood and 2x4s. Long story short, plywood fell on the saw and broke the handle, ended up buying a new craftsman 10 inch with 2 year warranty on sale. By this time, I had already been thinking of how I wanted the saw set up, and figured may as well build a work bench first. Spent a week or so googling all kinds of work benches and came up with a plan.

I have an upper corner and 2 regular kitchen cabinets that will get thrown in the mix, and might get more to play with. On the bottom left, it's going to have a 2x5 shelf. To the right of that, I don't have a plan yet but possibly drawers and the mini fridge. The part for the saw is made to have about 1/4 inch on each side of the saw. My Gpa acquired a bunch 1 inch thick plywood with a sheet of slick plastic on 1 side, they are about 2x4 feet. The bottom, sides and back where the saw is are all going to be made with that stuff. You can see some of it on the floor. To the right of the saw, I'm planning just simple shelves, then to the right of that a router. The upper shelves are coming down at some point. This all still leaves me almost 10 feet to the wall and about 4 feet from the bench to the blazer when parked in there.

It's pretty sturdy as is now. The 3 uprights are 2x6s. Most everything else so far is 2x4s. It will get more triangulation. Only thing I'm not sure yet what to do with is the legs under the saw. The bottoms shifted about 1/4 inch to the left and I haven't figured out a way to keep them where I want them without running a board on the floor the the wall on the left, basically pushing the legs back over. That would leave with a board to step on all the time. Of course I may just be being picky about it since it's only about 1/4 inch haha. I am hoping for it to end up looking half decent.

Sorry if you wanted to see the white crew. Didn't take any pics

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:41 pm

Love it. You are making a nice place to work. Thanks for the pics

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:57 am

Thanks, I appreciate it. The girlfriend is the only one who has seen it. Let's just says she is less motivated about it than I am. I won't have much time to mess with it until probably Sunday. I had to clean up my mess last night when I got home so I could park the blazer in there because it was going to rain last night. Here's another pic of it:

So if you are interested, I'll take better pics. I am using a couple pretty cool tools that my grandpa has. He has a decent little wood shop setup in his barn. I like working with wood, but am by no means, uh, skilled. My last name is carpenter though, so I have to have some kind skill in my blood haha. On this house, I re trimmed almost the whole thing earlier this year, but I did it the hard way. I bought 1x4s, cut them how I wanted, routered all the edged, stained them with "gunstock" and sealed with a polyurethane. I redid all the window trim the same way, but I built little shelves, simple idea and I rolled with it. We also redid the fireplace, although I can't take full credit for that, I had skilled help. I'll put up a couple pics of the fireplace. It's a lot simpler than it looks. I still have a good amount of wood work to do on the house, and that's the reason for setting up the bench with the saw in it.

Here's what the trim looks like:

And an un stained window. I think this one turned out the best:

And a few of the fireplace:

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:32 am

House is looking good.

I like that you have that workshed thing. One of the things i must have when i buy property/house whatever (so hard in the state of NJ) is i want a garage or shed large enough to drive my truck in open all the doors and hood.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:42 pm

Thanks. Bad thing is every where I look there's stuff to fix. On the shed, it's not big enough to do a whole lot, but I should be able to fit the s10 after the axle swap, as long as it's not any taller than the k5. The k5 just barely fits height and width wise. The s10 just barely fits length wise. I'm planning to get the jeep in there for the winter, maybe I'll actually fix it if it's in front of me. But anyways, future plans for the shed are to fix the cobbled ceiling, build some storage, and redo the doors. For the doors, they are big enough that I can frame in some regular house doors, and I'll probably just rebuild the sliding door and try to figure out how to make it better. It's already insulated so I think if I can seal it up better, I should be able to keep warm out there in the cold months. There's still a lot to do.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:21 pm

Well, I got some time to work on the bench. This is where it currently is:

Here is the lights I picked up at Home Depot. A little pricey at $20 a piece, but if they last as long as the box claims they will, it will be alright. There is 24 LEDs per light, and I've got 4 so far. They are made to screw into a regular porcelain light fixture. Including boxes, fixtures, lights, and other little stuff, I have about 32$ in each one, not counting wire. I'm pretty happy with them, just wish they were a little cheaper.

Pic:

Link:

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Ele ... /204372304

So I've been thinking about trying out some rubberized undercoating for the bench top. When I get a chance, I'll grab a can and test it on a scrap. I'm pretty happy with this project so far.

Oh yea, messed with photobucket settings again. I'm leaving pics on full resolution. Fireplace pics don't do it justice when scaled down.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:16 pm

Hey thats pretty cool! I think i need to get me one. I need to see what the brightness is like

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:44 pm

They aren't too bad. I'd suggest 1 and see if you like them. I started with 2. I saw they have an 11 and 14 inch version too, but I don't know if they screw in like these or if they need hard wired to a box.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Nov 21, 2014 9:19 am

Hard wiring is not a problem. We have two ugly lights in the hall downstairs that the roomies love to leave on, and they hog up alot of electricity with them pretty little crystal bulbs at 25 watts x6

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:36 am

So Saturday, the alternator in the k5 died. It wasn't too heart breaking since I'm pretty sure I've never replaced it the whole time I've owned the truck. I was in a bit of a hurry so I just grabbed a stock replacement from napa. #213-4534F

On Sunday, my dad got back from a 2 week trip. Before he left, he dropped his 2014 jeep jk 4 door rubicon with 11000 miles off for a teraflex lift, pro comp wheels, and 35x12.5 Toyo open country mts. We went and picked it up Monday.

Yesterday, I figured since the snow was falling I probably had better put my rear window in the k5. Well, long story short, the poor k5 is falling apart. One of the tailgate hinges broke away from the body (there's a pic in this thread somewhere of my buddy knocking the tailgate off the other k5 with a sledge, I was tempted for history to repeat itself). Years ago, I replaced all of the window tracks and the rubber parts, ect ect. It's all junk now. I ended up pulling some pieces out, but the window is up, the tailgate is latched, and I hope to have an s10 cab or something else to put on it by next summer.

So after the window ordeal, I finally put the new used sensor in the throttle body (I forget which it was, idle air control or throttle position sensor). It seems to be working as it should. I had been driving with it unplugged. It ran fine, except if I the punched the throttle, it would have a little hesitation and stutter a little before taking off. You really had to get on it though.

I also replaced the circuit breaker that I used for the dual headlight setup. When changing the head gasket, my buddy that was helping me got his pant leg snagged on one of the terminals and yanked the inside of the circuit breaker out. I thought I rigged it back together, but I had a couple instances where I'd switch from highs to lows or vise versa and it would kill the lights for a couple seconds. I don't know for sure that the circuit breaker was the problem, I suppose I'll find out in time.

This Saturday, I'm planning to drive over to Attica Indiana to the badlands. I'm tempted to take the van, but honestly, I currently trust the k5 to make the 3 hour drive, lightly play for the day, and drive back. We will see if I am too optimistic.

And a couple pics:

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Nov 30, 2014 9:27 am

Well, we both survived the badlands without any carnage. The k5 got some tree rash, but I'm way past the point of caring. Tomorrow, I'm going to go see about that s10 cab I saw in the junkyard a few weeks back, hopefully it's still there.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:21 am

I forgot to mention that I set the girlfriend's grandpa up with some parts.

I gave him the stock door panels and seats from my truck, the bravada switch panels for the doors, and found him a bed topper on craigslist. His drivers door panel and seat were busted up.

If I don't end up using them with the axle swap, he will probably end up with my shocks, and maybe a few other things. His truck is surprisingly rusty for as low miles as it is. Things like the core support where the lights go are rusted, making the lights not sit in there correctly. The oil lines were rusted through, brake lines aren't far behind. After looking it over more, I'm really glad I found a clean one to start with. As far as I know, the only rust mine currently has is a little bit on the front bed support.

Edit: ...and the k5 just turned over 196,000 miles.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 7:21 am

So I wanted to get an air nailer. Got to looking around online and found a bostitch compressor, air nailer, brad nailer, and staple gun for $200. It showed up last night. Also, I got some jackstands at o'rielly's yesterday so I could change oil in my girlfriend's car at home. Got (2) 4000 pound and (2) 2000 pound jackstands, also came with a junk jack, for about 60$. Her car also had a mouse nest that got dealt with, new headlights and turn signals, fuel filter, and oil/filter change. It's weird, she doesn't mind if I buy tools to work on her car or the house. Truck parts, however....

And here's some pics:

^load of wood in the back. Boise spring kit in action

Didn't take a pic without the boxes.

This jack is almost useless, jack stands are decent though.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:14 pm

I bought that same "junk jack" at Autozone so that I could do shocks and stuff in the Blazer. It could barely get the front wheels off the ground. It works for the Volkswagen, so its not a total loss but I somehow doubt it will even reach the frame on my truck or get it anywhere if it does.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:29 pm

I was more interested in the little jack stands than the jack. It was cheap. I used it to change the oil and fuel filters on my girlfriends car. It leaves a lot to be desired.

Had a buddy that wanted one of the motors in one of my parts trucks. So today we pulled it up to the shed, go it running, pulled the front clip, and pulled the whole motor/trans/tcase. Truck is a 79 k30 dually that I bought from him a few years back, and he needs a motor for his v8 s10. Front clip is going to another buddy working on a 79. Turbo 400/ np205/ and dually Dana 60 and 70 are being saved for a yet to be determined project, possibly the 90ish c1500 I acquired. Still have the extra Tbi 5.7 to put in front of that too.

Fun fun

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:42 am

I've had a little bit of time to mess around in the shed and it now looks like this:

Also picked up these to try:

All in all, I think the 11 inch light is the best bang for the buck of the 3. Wasn't that impressed with the 14 inch one but here's a shot of it with the cover off, I thought the pic was cool haha:

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:48 am

Those look nice. I need this.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:43 pm

Big things are about to happen. Had to trim a few things on my knuckle setup, but I dropped this stuff (minus the hubs and rotors) off to get the pass side flat top milled drilled and tapped and the brake brackets re drilled to clock them where they should be. Drum brake flat tops, spindle bolts are rotated slightly from a disk brake flat top, I can explain more if anyone is interested, but the calipers will be about halfway between where they are in the pic (they are clocked differently in the pic). The front axle is scheduled to get put together on the 15th.

Edit: pic looks huge and only shows half of the parts, click to see it in full

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:53 pm

Too many lugs here. LOL

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Jan 02, 2015 2:53 pm

I just put in some orders for parts. Ruffstuff diff covers for both axles, reamer tool for my tierods and draglink, sua perches for the 14 bolt, Jantz engineering k4 kit to put jk 8.9 inch ring gear in the front 44, and complete offroad for a spartan locker for the 44. I have a guy on s10forum that supposedly has an open carrier for the 14 bolt, which I need to run the Detroit locker I have. I'm pretty excited.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:23 am

I had to rethink my driveshafts. The shaft I had, that I thought was an explorer front, turned out to be an 88-94 or so k1500 front. Which is fine, except I ordered the wrong front yoke.... So anywho, got ahold of the guy, he hadn't shipped it yet so I had him upgrade the yoke to a 1350 series, so the axle yokes will take the same u joint. That got me thinking about the transfer case end. I was planning to just keep the slip yoke, but I was looking at the blazer and said screw it I'm doing it right. I ordered the jbconversions super short sye with no yoke. I traded my mechanic the stock slip yoke from the k5 for his 6.0/4l80e project (did a sye on k5 when I swapped the rear axle in) for a front 241 yoke to use on the rear output. I have had (actually free from same guy) a Dakota 231d to pull the front output to use, which has the same flat flange as the 241s. Now I just need to go to the junkyard and find another matching 88-94 shaft, and the shop that's making them can order the yokes for the axle end.

So, cliff notes, flat flange type yoke on both ends of the tcase, 88-94ish k1500 driveshafts for the flange and slip, going to 1350 yokes on the axles.

Edit: struck out on finding an 88-94ish shaft, but found a shaft with the 1350 yokes. The tubes are the same outside diameter so hopefully this goes smooth.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 7:26 am

Well I went to a junkyard an hour away looking for the driveshaft I want. Last time I was there they had a ranger bed full of driveshafts, so I had high hopes. They had one laying on the floor of the garage, it was exactly what I'm after, absolutely perfect in everyway.... But the lady that runs the place was at lunch. So I wait 30-45 minutes for her to come back and she says she will cut me a deal on it for 135$. I told her it wasn't worth 25$ and she says she sells them all day for 150$. I laughed and said, so you are telling me you won't take $50 cash right now for it? She started in on some sucker rant, and I walked out. Go across the street to the other junkyard and they said they sell driveshafts for $50, no more. But they don't have the one I need.... Grrrrr.....

So call around to the other local junkyards and the only one I can find, the guy wouldn't come down from $75.....grrrr

I text a guy on Craigslist, I've bought parts from him before, but the last few times I've tried he has given me the run around, and this time was no different. He says he has one, but it's in a truck with no tires on it laying on the ground and he didn't want to try to start any of his tractors because it was "too cold".... He must have John deeres because none of our tractors are afraid of the cold.

Irritated, I went over to my mechanics shop to bs with him. He said he thought he might have an extra one in one of his trucks, so I go look and bingo, he does! Pull the 2 out that he had in the floorboard and take them in to compare, and turns out neither will work for me and he didn't know which one needed to stay with his truck. Well then I got to looking at the flange he has that I was planning to use on the back of the 233, and it turns out to not be what im after also. I *think* I have one in the 87 k5 on the front of the 208, but I don't know for sure and was really hoping To not have to pull it apart, since it is complete and functions

So I still need a driveshaft and a flange. And I wasted all day yesterday

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 2:53 am

That sucks! Sounds like somebody is fishing for money to pay a bill or something. I wonder where some of these people think they get this gold from?

Hopefully you can find what you need. Maybe you can send me some info, not that I know much about driveshafts, and we can look here in NJ.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:20 am

Yea 135$ for a driveshaft I'm going to cut up is ridiculous. That lady probably buys whole trucks for 135$. What sucks is I've gone in there several times and gotten some great deals. I pillaged that bravada for the seats, homelink, door panels, and God knows what all else, but I left there only spending 100$ that day, and I was happy with that. Funny thing about that driveshaft is they didn't even have to do anything right then, it was laying on the floor, and I was waving a 50$ bill in there face. Oh well...

If the craigslist guy doesn't pull through, I'll send you a pic of what im after. I actually just need the slip part, I have no idea where I lost it at but I can't find it in my pile. I'd prefer a whole d shaft though.

I should have a bunch of boxes start showing up soon

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:51 am

I have made myself 3 lists for the axle swap, "things I need, things I might need, things I want".

My needs list is getting small and some of them I can't get yet, like shocks. Most things on that list are readily available in town, like bolts and brake line fittings.

My might need list is what has me concerned. I kinda expect the rear shackle bushings to give me trouble, and can't find a replacement part number. I wouldn't mind a poly bushing but it looks like the kits reuse part of the stock bushing, which I expect to mangle if it needs to come out, so I'm leaning more towards a stock replacement. Anyone able to find a number for this? I looked and looked last night and came up with nothing, best I found was a bushing with a shackle from Napa for 45$.

Another thing that has me wondering is the master cylinder and proportioning valve. I might not need a prop valve since crews had disks stock. Now the master cylinder, on s10forum, lots of guys use the stock master cylinder from my k5, but it didn't work for me in the k5 after the disk swap and I ended up putting a trans am master cylinder and an adjustable prop valve in and it all works fine. So I don't know if I'll be wasting my time bolting the k5 master on or if I should just put the trans am one on.

As for my tcase yoke, I was googling around and came across a pic I posted on pirate like 5 years ago of the k5 swap and I said I used an np208 front yoke in the back, I don't know why I had it stuck in my head it was a 241 yoke. Well the 87 k5 has a 208 in it that I probably won't ever use, so I pulled the driveshaft and yoke. I forgot to check the slip part of the driveshaft to see if it will work on the other one I have. For future reference, all chevy, and probably all dodge, and possibly some fords, but not jeeps, have a 32 spline flange on the front of np208's, looks like jeeps and fords used a regular ujoint style yoke. That saved me $70+shipping.

Boxes started showing up the other day, I got pretty much everything except the yoke for the dana 44, I really hope it doesn't hold me up. If it's here by the 15th, my axle is getting put together, if it's not I might have to wait for my guy to reschedule me. I also just found out that my knuckles are not milled drilled and tapped yet, I also need them by the 15th so I can put the ball joints in while my guy is doing the the ring and pinion.

So those are the hang ups that come to mind right now. Any feedback?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:40 am

It is usually best to use a master cylinder that matches the brakes. The volumes are matched to the wheel cylinders, or calipers better. The proportioning valve will likely need to be adjustable to provide optimal performance. Weight variance tire sizes, etc. all play a part in the proper proportioning.

Anything can be made to work.

The trick is finding the best choice

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:12 am

So are you thinking I should just skip the k5 master cylinder and go with the trans am one? The trans am one is originally for a disk/disk setup. I honestly don't know how the k5 master works for people, my brakes went from bad to worse with just the disk swap, but the master and prop valve seemed to fix it right up. If I use an adjustable prop valve, the plan is basically straight pressure to the fronts, with the adjustable prop valve plumbed as close to the master cylinder as possible on the rear line. Just to toss a wrench into the cogs, I'm using different calipers on the s10 than I used on the k5. K5 should have small piston calipers, but I got the big piston calipers for this. There are 3 styles (size of piston), and I can easily switch to whichever one. Just would need the calipers and the appropriate pads. I figure I can pick up the prop valve, and if I don't use it, I'll have it for something else.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 12:59 pm

Your S10 should adjust the prop valve electronically with the ABS system. I think the 2001 service manual says something about it. I was doing a lot of digging when my ABS failed and it has some fancy thing to it if you have the 4 wheel disc brakes. I forget. i can do some re looking at the subject if you need me to.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:15 pm

My thought is to use a master cylinder that matches the wheel cylinders , or calipers the best. The reservoir of fluid for the calipers may be larger than that of the wheel cylinders if drum brakes are used. Volume enough not to run dry before the brakes reach their wear limit.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:50 pm

I don't know where I can find the numbers to figure out what master cylinder would work best. I'm leaning toward just going with the original plan and go from there, trans am master cylinder and adjustable prop valve. I'm deleting the abs, so sounds like I'll need the adjustable prop valve for sure.

I checked the d shaft from the 87 k5 and the splined part went right on the other driveshaft, so as far as I know I have my driveshaft parts. I grabbed a pic of the 6 gear 241 planetary, I'm going to look here shortly to see if it's new or old style. I went and talked to the guy about the knuckles and he is going to do it tomorrow. He has me thinking I may need a drop pitman arm. I also started loading all my parts in the truck, I can tell you it's a ridiculous amount of parts lol

As of now, the only known hang up, is the lack of a dana 44 yoke.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:53 pm

So the planetary gears I have, not the right ones. Today was partially spent dissecting an np231d and some experimenting.... I also had an ifs 241c already dissected, what my planetary came out of. I think if a guy was inclined enough and had the right tools to do it, you could make what I have work. I have an old style 6 planetary gear and need the new style, but the gear that it rides on it is very possibly interchangeable between the 23X and 24X transfer cases. However, I didn't have the right puller to get them out to see, so I can't say for sure. I also took the planetary from the dodge case and pressed one of the gears out to see what that gets you into. Again, if someone was inclined enough, it would work. There's a bunch of needle bearings to deal with. So in the end, I pulled the front output from the dodge case, made a 231d and a 241c pile, and the hunt continues for a 96 or so and up 24X tcase to gut for the planetary. The guy that runs the local scrapyard said $50 and he'll roll it on the side for me to have my way with, you can't beat that.

In other news, I got the knuckles back. I traded some small block chevy parts for the machine work. And the dana 44 yoke showed up, so as far as I know, I have everything to start on the axle and get this show on the road.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:07 am

Well, I tried to take a break from thinking about this project yesterday. The result of that is that I found the planetary gear I need. Texted the guy from craigslist and he says he has a 97 np243c already pulled, but still bolted to trans, for $60. Sounds perfect, I'm going to get it Sunday. I'm hoping he actually answers the phone this time. Tried to get a set of wheels from him a while back, was almost to his place, which is an hour away, and he wouldn't answer the phone.

So I have every part for this that I can possibly think of that I have, except the axles and wheels and front springs (still on axle), in the truck. I have the skid plates and spare tire off (which was flat, good thing I've been carrying for a year). I have purchased a 2000 4 door blazer that was wrecked for $200 with a title, probably going to pull the 233 to make into my frankencase, and possibly the cab on the k5 at some point. The front axle is getting loaded in a truck and taken to my mechanic's shop sometime today. After I have the axle together, I'm going to focus on the hangers.

I still haven't found a part number for a stock replacement shackle bushing, what I mean the one for the frame. If I have time I'll stop at napa and have them look it up

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:50 pm

Got the axle moved to my guy's shop. I attacked it solo for about an hour and got it down to the spindles before he was ready to leave for the day. I need to acquire a large stepped drill bit to make room in the carrier for the ring gear bolts. I hope tomorrow goes smooth.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:01 pm

Not much to report. Progress was/is slower than hoped. My mechanic was trying to get caught up on other people's vehicles, which is fine, I had plenty to do. I got the axle down to nothing but the housing, springs, and the differential. I recleaned all the spindles, hubs, brake brackets, rotors, knuckles, and axle shafts. Put spicer ujoints in the shafts, and I will tell you those were the worst ujoints I have ever taken out, ended up torching one out after an hour or so of beating on it. Ended up taking the rotors off the hubs to take the paint off on the mating surface. Painted the diff cover. Had some confusion with the upper ball joints. They had a doodad in there I had never seen before, but I took said doodad to the alignment shop and he called it an excentric. Said to clean it the best I could and put it back and if he needed to change it, he can just pull it out and change it, simple enough. Found 1 part I didn't have, a rubber seal on the stub shaft by the bearing. I'm about as far I can go without help. I also found a guy on pirate that's buying an incomplete wagoneer axle, and everything he isn't getting, I have for him. He will know tomorrow what all he needs and is going to let me know and I'll send it out Monday.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:52 am

If my math is correct.... With the wheels I have, Chevy hd pyo's, with a 315/75/16 toyo mt, using specs from desertrat, I'm going to wind up at 72.9 inches, which sounds ridiculously narrow to me. I'm very anxious to go set a tape measure infront of the truck.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 18, 2015 7:54 am

Well, I get to re-rethink my driveshafts. Took the u joints out of the driveshafts I have, and they ended up being different on each end. I planned to just move the flange to the other end and have the 1350 yoke put on the end the flange was on. So I googled a little bit and found a slip shaft with a 1350 joint that will just slide on the shafts I have, 75$ each, not as bad as I expected. I need to double check the spline count and diameter.

I've been thinking about my tire and wheel situation. I have seen talk on other forums about the pyo wheels, and some say not to run too wide of a tire on them. So I was looking into maybe h2 wheels or dodge "3rd gen" wheels. So here is what I came up with, provided my math is right and I went off of correct specs for the tires and wheels. I'm not 100% on the dodge wheel specs. Tire specs are from desert rat for Toyo mt's. The wheel mount surface should be 63.5 front 63 rear.

Dodge 3rd gen with 35x12.5x17= 72.2
17x8, 6.25 bs/ 34.8x13.2

Pyo with 315/75/16= 72.9
16x6.5, 5 bs/ 34.9x12.9

H2 with 35x12.5x17= 73.95
17x8.5, 5.625 bs/ 34.8x13.2

USWheel 8 lug 15 with 35x13.5x15= 82.9
15x10, 2.5 bs/ 34.8x14.4

I'm not sure if the dodge or h2 wheels will even work, and the 8 lug steel wheels definitely won't work. I do like the look of the dodge wheels. I'm thinking I should be able to fit a 35, but I really won't know for a couple weeks. The pyo's with those toyos should only be able 2-3 inches per side wider than it is now.

I also came to a realization the other night, comparing a crew cab s10 to an 80s suburban, the suburban is only about 14 inches longer bumper to bumper, and only about 7 inches longer wheelbase. Our crew cabs are huge! Let's hope I don't smash body panels for a year or more. From what little I have driven my dads jk offroad, it feels ginormous, both width and length. My k5 is wide, but short, and gets around great. My yj is narrow and short and gets around even better. However.... I've never had a locker front or rear in any of my toys, and this will be locked front and rear. It should be able to go places it doesn't need to be. I think I just talked myself into needing some body protection.

I'm not sure how much time I'll have this week to work on this. Today I'm going to get the 97 np243c. Hoping tomorrow to pull it apart while my mechanic is putting the jk gears in the axle. I hope we have time to go ahead and put the rest of the axle together, slide shafts in, put ball joints in knuckles and get them on, put the bearings in the hubs and get them on, and put the brakes on. Sounds simple enough, right? I won't be able to work on it Tuesday or maybe the rest of the week. I was trying to find help to put the front crossmember on, but we had too much going on yesterday to make it that far. The winch mount complicates things there.

Thoughts? Feedback? Free labor? All are welcomed

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:30 pm

I'm really hoping to have an update tomorrow. Progress has been slower than I had hoped, but it's coming together nicely. Surprisingly, very little grinding required to make the 8.9 inch ring gear fit where the 8.5 one was.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:23 am

Well, I was hoping to bring the axle home yesterday, didn't happen. I have high hopes that it will be in the bed of the truck today. I did get the rest if my driveshaft parts though, they are a perfect fit. If everything goes smooth.... I'll be taking out the ifs next week

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 24, 2015 8:03 pm

Finally! I have my front axle at home!

So after a lot of delays, I now have a mostly complete dana 44 that is very close to being ready to swap in. However.... I don't have a good pic. I will try to get some tomorrow. I can say I have a pretty good understanding of setting up a ring and pinion now. We took the diff in and out and in and out trying to get it set right. But anywho, I've got both axle sitting on roller tires.