More plans for mods

Country_Guy · Post by **Country_Guy** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 12:23 pm

Thanks HenryJ, for the links no cutting the stock air box out I assume that it would be replaced with a bracket and a Conical Style filter everything else would remain stock. Next is if I understand right that I can'y remove the tb diffuser until I get the egr thing (can I get that at an auto parts store) I don't have a credit card) or I will have a problem? Do you have picts of this? I have a hard time understanding with out seeing it. Is there picts to the automatic headlight disable? I don't like not turning the switch and get agrivated when I go where there is a little shade they come on.

Sorry for the hassle I am still new to the trucks?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 12:41 pm

Split the topic.

The Factory air box and modified headlight support is free and works as well or better than most CAI.

What year is yours? You may be able to buy two egr gaskets Trace one on a piece of sheet metal and cut it out. Drill the valve side to 1/2" and the inlet side 1/8" sandwich that between the gaskets and install it on the manifold.
That works for 200 and older vehicles sometimes. I know that 1996 can get away with it.

The pipe plug in the adapter on the exhaust manifold is the next free trick. Here is the thread: EGR Limiter

All the AHL disable stuff is in that thread.

Country_Guy · Post by **Country_Guy** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 12:57 pm

Mines a 99

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 1:11 pm

I'd sure give the EGR plate a shot. Easy to build, easy to install. The gaskets are cheap.
NAPA number (Fel Pro Gasket) FPG 70789 $0.98 each

Worst case it will set the MIL for insufficient EGR flow detected.

This will help to keep the intake cleaner. There will not be nearly the carbon build up in the intake.

Next thing is to pull that TB blade and cut the diffuser. Use a torx driver to remove the screws. Be careful not to strip or break them. Gently tapping the driver with a little hammer while applying pressure to remove if needed. Pull them both and set aside. Hold on to the blade. Open the throttle and slide it out. Use a Dremmel, coping saw or hack saw to cut the diffuser. Leave the flat portion attached to the blade and smooth the cut edge flush. Don't loosen the rivets. Be gentle.
Take some cleaner and a rag to clean out the TB while you are there. Reinstall the blade.

Those two mods will put a smile on your face.

Country_Guy · Post by **Country_Guy** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:59 pm

Thank you so much for the help. I appreciate it, like I am new to modifying these trucks as before I had a 96 Silverado and all I did was lift it with tires and dual exhaust and a K-N filter (replacement type). All of which me and my friends did in the barn. Like I said I am pretty good if I have messed with it before but going in blind I have a hard time with. The extent on these trucks is I have done the auto in the console swap like you did with my friend and I have worked on the engine and have had the transmission out of mine one and changed parts. I also did the t-bar crank.

I am used to and know more about older vehicles with carbs and no electronic and of course set a John Deere in front of me, turn me loose.

What do you think about this a friend suggested this to me since I do mud but don't do water crossings, can I cut the air box off and attach a cone filter to the end. I will brace the intake and filter. He suggested putting a sheet of aluminum under to keep any potential mud away.

And last if I do the filter either way cone or like what you have and then the diffuser along with the muffler I already have do I have to have it programmed in any way (Will it run ok).

Thanks for the help and will try to help you guys when I can.

Zach

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:10 pm

Country_Guy wrote:... a friend suggested this to me since I do mud but don't do water crossings, can I cut the air box off and attach a cone filter to the end. I will brace the intake and filter. He suggested putting a sheet of aluminum under to keep any potential mud away.

And last if I do the filter either way cone or like what you have and then the diffuser along with the muffler I already have do I have to have it programmed in any way (Will it run ok).

Careful about hacking a filter system together. You may end up with turbulence that messes up the MAFS readings. If you want a cone filter, get one engineered to work well wit a tube and good heat shield. AEM and some ebay copies look good.
The airbox mod, diffuser removal and some other mods will effect the function. The PCM is pretty good about learning. The sensors will correct for rich or lean conditions as far as the programming will allow.
Re programming mostly improves upon the modifications made. You may not see the full potential of your modifications until the PCM is flashed. I have not flashed mine and it performs up to my expectations. Could it do better with a custom PCM, perhaps.

Research, read and read some more. There is lots of good information here. Learn the search tool. It is your friend. I have done my best to make sure key words are included as well as link like threads just like I have done here in yours.
Cruise the other forums too. Ricers, low riders, rock crawlers, mudders, expedition, rally and show cars all have things to offer.