ZR5 Flare Damage and Skidz Flares install

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ZR5 Flare Damage and Skidz Flares install

Post by F9K9 »

ZR5OnIt wrote:The front flares fit just like the stockers did, in that crease in the fender, so the scuff line was covered up. On the rear, Image :twisted: :
Image

Trust me, it could look a lot worse worse on a lighter truck. The pictures really don't show how bad mine looks.

ImageImageImage

I gotta think on what to do on this one. I could:

A. Put the stockers back on and say screw it!
B. See what it looks like with just Skidz on the front and stock rear flares.
C. Install the Skidz flares, go crazy looking at the damage and end up spending $500 for the two panels painted and the decals.

Any thoughts?

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Post by HenryJ »

D. Install the Skidz flares and live with the rub marks.

After a good wax job they are not so noticeable. Mine are way worse than yours and I have learned to live with them.

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Post by BobbleSmitty »

try to buff it out and wax it... should look a little bit better afterwards.... go with the skidz flares
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:D. Install the Skidz flares and live with the rub marks.

After a good wax job they are not so noticeable. Mine are way worse than yours and I have learned to live with them.
ImageImage
f9k9 wrote:Trust me, it could look a lot worse worse on a lighter truck. The pictures really don't show how bad mine looks.
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:Trust me, it could look a lot worse worse on a lighter truck. The pictures really don't show how bad mine looks.
Ditto

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Post by F9K9 »

I would recommend any ZR5s that are in the process of doing the Skidz cutouts to yank off the rear flares NOW!! That is actual rust on the top center of my wheel well. There are several other spots on both sides from the inside bracket of the stock flares. I have already done quite a bit of buffing and it isn't looking any better.

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Post by killian96ss »

Reed, try Turtle Wax "Color Cure" wax. They make them in all colors. I have scratched the hell out of my CC on some narrow trails that had manzanita everywhere. I used the Turtle Wax "black" and the scratches almost disappeared entirely. Trust me, the scratches are down both sides of my truck and they are white because they are so deep. I'm pretty sure they make a universal yellow which should work on your CC. It will last through about 2 washes before you need to re-apply. Since your scratches are only on your fenders it should be really easy. Not much fun for me though since I have to do everything on both sides. :roll: For you it should work well since your CC is yellow which is very light compared to my black CC. Black shows everything. :x Don't give up on installing the flares! I think your truck will look nice when you are finished! :D

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Post by jeff024 »

and I wanted to just take mine off to clean under them now im almost scared as to what I may find
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Post by F9K9 »

killian96ss wrote:Reed, try Turtle Wax "Color Cure" wax. They make them in all colors. .......I'm pretty sure they make a universal yellow which should work on your CC. It will last through about 2 washes before you need to re-apply.

Steve
I will look for it Steve. I usually hit three diffrent part stores weekly on my lunch hour and don't recall seeing any. I may have to order it because I just searched my town for.......
HenryJ wrote: Here is the fun stuff. Get ready to cut. You will need .........14 - 1/8 steel poprivets,..............four dozen 1/8" Phillips flat top washer head self tapping sheet metal screws,....................
And came up empty handed :bonk:

I'm going with a little longer hex head screws and aluminum pop rivets which means I'm going with the Skidz flares tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

Besides, I love playing with my air tools.Image
Turtle Wax wrote:Turtle Wax Color Cure with ChipStick is a color enriched car polish that fills-in swirl marks and light scratches. Available in white, black, red, blue, green and silver and tan.
Looks like I have another Duck in distress :lol:
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Post by killian96ss »

Well, I guess Turtle Wax doesn't make a yellow version. Sorry about that. I should have researched it first. :oops: Another good product for scratches is Meguiars "Scratch-X". I use this on my SS and it works real good. Use this stuff before applying the wax of your choice. :D

Image

You could also get one of those paint scratch kits that come with a color matched paint pen and clear coat.

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Post by F9K9 »

Will try it Steve! This is a little better pictuce but, but no way close. Looks like a black crayon mark and depressed into the primer and metal. Some other rust spots show here. Your's and HJ's white scatches are almost welcome. Phffft, today's crisis is tomorrow's low priority

Image :lol: :wink:
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Post by HenryJ »

Mine did not make it to bare metal, but the primer is showing. You will be happy to know that the area below the bodylines will be virtually hidden after the install. The only place that shows is above the bodyline indentation.

I was pretty "bent" at first too. Sure wish Justin had made the flares bigger. I got over it.
If you are building a show car it would be different. Perhaps I will add a little liner around the flare when I shoot the rockers?

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Post by bubaloo1983 »

I hate that damage caused by the rear stockers. It sucks! i wish i could change it but i cant :(
however i just bought gm matching paint and ran a line of it down the side of the fender. then installed the flares you cant notice at all because the flares almost cover it and then the new color masks it nicely. something to try maybe
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:
Battle scars. All we can do is warn others not to find the mistakes we did.


AGREED but, for some ridiculous reason I am frozen in the brain farted (is that even a word or term?) reasoning of resale. I'd like a Rubicon but, may hang onto to this crew until we are discussing V-8 swap problems along with flocks of ducks drowning :wink:
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Post by Steve2003 »

At first I didn't like the scrath marks either but no one else noticed them and I soon got over it.
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Post by HenryJ »

A clean V-8 swap is not so far fetched. I still think there is some left in these V-6's though.

Resale is not a bad way to think. Those marks can be seen as normal wear and tear. I don't see losing much.

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Post by F9K9 »

bubaloo1983 wrote:I hate that damage caused by the rear stockers. It sucks! i wish i could change it but i cant :(..............


I know that no one blames you, Justin! You did us a very large favor and hopefully there will be a day when we can repay you for all the work you have done. Hindsight is 20/20 but, you did a great job!
Steve2003 wrote:At first I didn't like the scrath marks either but no one else noticed them and I soon got over it.


As much as I despise your polictical views (AS YOU DO MINE :wink: ), I have already decided to join your line of reasoning :wink:

Jeff, you may just want to pull the rear flares and throw some tape over the metal brackets on the rear metal flare subframe. You'll have five 10MM nuts to remove and two screws on the lover inner lips of the rear fender. Three of the 10MM nuts have hard plastic "plugs" to remove.
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Post by jeff024 »

the markings on the paint is the reason I threw the bed liner away the 2nd day I had my truck,anyont ever lift theres out its a mess underneath
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Post by Steve2003 »

jeff024 wrote:the markings on the paint is the reason I threw the bed liner away the 2nd day I had my truck,anyont ever lift theres out its a mess underneath
I have never looked underneath my liner. My crew is not a street queen, it is a truck. With all the crap I have thrown in the bed of my truck, like wood, tools, fishing gear, skis, furniture, trash and a lot more that doesn't come to mind right now I would think my bed would look a whole lot worse right now without the bedliner. But you got my curiosity stirred now and I am going to take a peek up underneath the liner tomorrow. :D
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Post by Walt »

So Reed.....you haven't done the flares yet right? Be sure to post pics :D
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Post by F9K9 »

wamason wrote:So Reed.....you haven't done the flares yet right? Be sure to post pics :D
Yeah, NOT!

Maybe you can post some of you checking "A" fluid level :wink:
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Post by bubaloo1983 »

well good luck on the install anyway. You should think about buying the gm match paint and do a small touch up. I will try and get an upclose pic of my truck and you can see what it looks like
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Post by bubaloo1983 »

this is the only one i have as i dont have a camera to take some right now, but this pic is with the touch up paint so unless your really really close you dont notice. the light area around the flare isnt the touched up area either thats just the trim with a reflection. so you should try it works well :)

Image
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Post by F9K9 »

wamason wrote:So Reed.....you haven't done the flares yet right? Be sure to post pics :D
Well, I really haven't time today running around trying to find all the correct stuff. I told you you it would take me four times as along as anyone else :lol:

I got the back cut, tucked and primered and am about half way indone with the first front :!:

Big T-storm was about five minutes away and Mrs Hoff asks "Are you gonna try to just put the wheels on?" :bonk:

"What about work tomorrow?" She asks. "Screw work tomorrow!" I repliedImage
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:The whole job should take somewhere between 6 to 8 hours to complete. Give yourself a whole weekend just to be safe and take your time.


Well, I've 20 hours in it thus far and not done. I am not counting the time spent searching for supplies or the two hour window-weld drying time :lol:

My second front cut was 10X better than than the first :thumb:

I wish I could add to HJ's write up from a newbie's veiw point and have not been able come up with any suggestions, as of yet. :!:

It all makes perfect sense to HJ because he has always done this sort of thing. This has been a grand adventure for me :shock: This was my first time using a sawzall. The first for cutting my own vehicle and a bunch of other firsts. :D

I spent 10 hard hours today and as some of you know, I'm an avid smoker but today, I had 1 smoke on the window-weld drying period and not another one so, I was working pretty intensely.

I am going to comment on the Craftsman reciprocating saw in that thread and I got all POed at a cheap hydralic jack and found a cool Craftsman 3 ton juck on sale this morning.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:...I wish I could add to HJ's write up from a newbie's veiw point and have not been able come up with any suggestions, as of yet.
That is good news, I think?
It really is tough to convey exactly what needs to be done. Adding too much detail can be nearly as bad as not enough information. I could glaze over things and not realize I am taking them for granted. I do appreciate a fresh opinion , or view of the install. I have tried to take previous installs into consideration and improve the write-up.
Things like how to use tools , proper selection of hardware and adhesives can leave quite a bit to preference and only serve to confuse.
Thank goodness we have this forum available to assist.

Sounds like this duck is still afloat. Not bad for a pretty radical modification.

You will be pleased. There is just no other substitute for the added clearance.
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Post by Steve2003 »

Reed, it sounds like your doing the right thing, take your time and do it right. I personally can't stand things being done half a$$. I had two helpers when I did mine and one of my buddies is a experienced trailer mechanic and has vast experience in fabricating and welding, it still took us all day and well into the night. Hope it all works out well for you. :thumb:
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Post by F9K9 »

Thanks for the encouragement Steve and HJ :thumb:

It's been a long extended weekend. The cold front following that storm front and the "unpredicted" drizzle hasn't added many warm "fuzzies" today :!:
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Post by ZR5OnIt »

I agree, take as much time as you need to feel comfortable with the install. I found the most time consuming part was trimming the bottom edges of the cut pieces so they would tuck back into the fender smoothly. The results are worth it, tho - no rubbing at all & the truck looks mad buffed 8)
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Post by bubaloo1983 »

yah it does look mad buffed :D
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Post by F9K9 »

bubaloo1983 wrote:yah it does look mad buffed :D
Justin,

Do you have any more of the newer trim, I can purchase? I may wanna do a little more dremel tool work and I already applied your supplied trim. Btw, Mrs Hoff already has commented on the need for bigger tiresImage
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Post by HenryJ »

Reed, You should be able to reapply the trim/edging that you have. Peel the gray adhesive foam off and pick up a roll of 3/8" double stick foam emblem adhesive tape. It comes off pretty easy if you stretch it a little.

Auto parts stores should carry it or have some available to order.

The trim/edging that I reused was off of my Bushwacker flares. I did just as I have described above.
This was before Justin knew about the trim he is now using.

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Post by bubaloo1983 »

i do have lots if you need it though :)
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Walt
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Post by Walt »

Yea....he sent me a gigantic roll :) BTW, for anyone wanting to buy shackles, Justin's look great! :D
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
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bubaloo1983
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Post by bubaloo1983 »

yah i sent you alot just in case you ever needed more walt :D
[size=75]2003 ZR5 GMC Sonoma, SFA dana30, 35 inch tires, 4.10 gears, Cut out flares. Chrome Denali grill, custom made skid plates, shackles and badging

www.customskidplates.com[/size]
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F9K9
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Post by F9K9 »

killian96ss wrote:Well, I guess Turtle Wax doesn't make a yellow version. Sorry about that. I should have researched it first. :oops: Another good product for scratches is Meguiars "Scratch-X". I use this on my SS and it works real good. Use this stuff before applying the wax of your choice. :D

Image

You could also get one of those paint scratch kits that come with a color matched paint pen and clear coat.

Steve
I tried it tonite and it looks like it works well on the minor damage but the deeper stuff may take some time if, it is going to work. Some of the damage is felt through a heavy 100% cotton turkish towel. May work for HJ and the light colored marks in paint. BTW, I found it at wallyworld for about $2.50 cheaper than AAP (after, I bought mine at AAP)
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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HenryJ
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Post by HenryJ »

Thanks for the recommendation. We are planning an expedition to "Wally world" later this evening. I may grab a tube :thumb:

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Walt
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Post by Walt »

bubaloo1983 wrote:yah i sent you alot just in case you ever needed more walt :D
Goes a long way in showing how well you take care of your customers :D
--Walt
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Post by F9K9 »

Well, I searched several auto parts stores and, of course, they had many touch up pens for most colors but, no one had any even listed for my ugly yellow crew :lol:

The RPO is WA 5456. I located some oneline but, they are no where near as cheap as the DupliColor kits. They even require your VIN and PH # to complete the order. They sell by 1/2 ounce pens on up to quarts. The quart price is cheaper than what NAPA charged my body shop for my goodmark hood's paint.

Just tossing this out for info. Will report if service is exceptional or just plain bad.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]