Multiple Questions before installing body lift...

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 2:32 pm

I will be installing my body lift early next week, but I was wondering how to raise the Safari Light Bar on the front of my truck. Would I just drill new holes in the brackets that hang down that the bar attaches to 2 inches higher and cut off the excess beneath?

Also, I have stock nerf bars. What are my options for raising the bars up?

I have a 2004 and I'm confused about the gas line extensions. In the directions it shows a vent hose and a filler hose. Does mine have both or just the filler hose?

Exactly what tools will be needed to do the lift?

One last question, where is the best place to position the jack to raise up the body and the bed??

Thanks alot guys.

-Bob

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 2:51 pm

BobbleSmitty wrote:...how to raise the Safari Light Bar on the front of my truck. Would I just drill new holes in the brackets that hang down that the bar attaches to 2 inches higher...

Exactly right. I gusseted mine to add some rigidity.

I have stock nerf bars. What are my options for raising the bars up?

This may require some cutting and welding. I never did raise a set of the stock ones.

I'm confused about the gas line extensions. In the directions it shows a vent hose and a filler hose. Does mine have both or just the filler hose?

Yours is probably just the 1" filler tube. Take loose the clamps at both ends and slide the hose off as far as possible and still be able to clamp it. This should be plenty of hose without cutting. Take the clamps loose before lifting and pull the hose off one end. Don't replace or clamp either end until after the lift is done. That way you don't stress the tank.

Exactly what tools will be needed to do the lift?

Basic hand tools (socket set , wrenches, etc.) a drill with 1/2" bit, jack blocks, and a friend to help.

where is the best place to position the jack to raise up the body and the bed??

I used a 2x4 under the rockers to raise the cab. Do a little at a time until you can just slip the blocks in place. Check things as you raise it to make sure you're not stressing the wiring to the PCM or anything else.
I lifted the bed by hand while a friend slipped the blocks in the bed. You can even get away with using a shoulder to lift with "eeking" a block into place.

Good luck and check out some of the install threads for more suggestions. Be sure to let us know if you find anything we should know

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 2:52 pm

on the gas line we just have a filler hose on the 04s

to raise my bed I used 2 rachet straps and hooked them to the ceiling of the garage and cranked them up.

tools- make sure you have a mm socket set you will need a good size extension to get a the bolt on the driver side bed

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 3:43 pm

as for the stock nerf bars... look in my gallery!!!! i have a few pics of the drivers side bracket that i measured 2" down from the existing holes and drilled new holes in the bracket. you can see this in one of the pics. i can get more if you like.
the only problem on the drivers side is the brake cable.....you can see on the pics i drilled a hole in the bracket for the cable to pass through. i also "trimmed" the drivers side front bracket with a hack saw to make it fit right!!
on the gas tank hoses.....i loosened both ends and reattached them after i lifted the bed. there is a ground strap on the left rear wheel area that you may have to bolt in a new location...i did on mine!!
i used a bottle jack and wood ,, with the assistance of a "trusty friend" to lift the body and bed..
everything is metric, too!!!!
and last but not least..................have fun with the bracket that holds the metal lines to the side of the oil pan!!!! it's a "pain"!!! take your time with it!! i found it was easier to get to from the front of the truck vs from under!!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:21 pm

Thanks for the advice guys. Top_sgt that would nice if you could get a few more pictures of the brackets. How do you get the cable to pass through? Does it disconnect somewhere easily? And one more thing for HJ, u said 12" drill bit? Is that a typo?

Yes it should have been 1/2" bit for drilling out the "mushed" holes in the oil filter relocation brackets, if needed-HJ

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 12:23 pm

Bobblesmitty.......i've added a couple more pics to my gallery of my nerf brackets!!! hope they help!!!

ALBUM

Linked large image and added link to album-HJ

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 2:53 pm

thanks... HJ!!!

i'll figure out how you do all this "link", message quoting things sometime!!

by the way,, bobblesmitty...how's the lift going???

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:48 pm

It's been a while, but the weather is just starting to get nice out! Over the past weekend, I was able to modify the light bar on the front of my truck. I drilled new holes 2" above the old ones, and then I cut off the part of the bracket beneath. It looks pretty good! I'll have a picture sometime in the near future I'm sure. I went to Home Depot and found some rubber that goes on stairs that will work for gap guards. I'll be putting those on pretty soon.

top_sgt, I was looking at the Stock Nerf bars and I was wondering how to get that cable on the drivers side to pass through the brackets??

Could you help me out on this??? thanks!!

-Bob

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:30 pm

i sure can......

on the right side of the cable in this pic is a connector.(just to right of nerf bracket, ) there are tabs in the center of the connector that can be pryed out a little to allow the cable to slip out of the connector. first you loosen the adjuster on the brake cable. this is in this pic...

after you loosen the cable, pry out the tabs on the connector...slide the cable out.

if you still have questions let me know!! hope this helps!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:48 pm

Thanks!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 3:38 am

Top, you might want to show him the front driver's side bracket that needs to be altered for the e-brake bracket. I would but, mine are long gone.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:52 am

i'll get a pic of it tonight and post it!!

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 5:12 pm

as you can see, i simply cut the nerf bar bracket out to fit under the brake cable bracket. hope all this helps with yours, bobblesmitty!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 5:18 pm

Nice job TOP! Where did you find that small amount of mud around Lexington? Wait, let me guess

You turkey hunt too? Such a barbarian

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 5:21 pm

f9k9 wrote:Nice job TOP! Where did you find that small amount of mud around Lexington? Wait, let me guess

You turkey hunt too? Such a barbarian

shotgun, cammos, turkey call all ready!!!!! all i need now is to sweet talk a nice tom!!!!!!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 8:52 pm

Hey top, thanks alot!!!! I'm going to pull the brackets all off and repaint them. While they're all off, i'm going to paint the frame with some P.O.R. too. After that, I'll raise the brackets up! Thanks again for all the pics!! When I'm done with it all, I'll take some photos as well!

-Bob

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 1:51 pm

Well, I got all of the holes drilled on the brackets and I moved the step bars up two inches. I have yet to paint it yet, just waiting for some consistent good weather! Thanks again Top for all of the info and the detailed pictures!! It was a big help

-Bob

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 3:54 pm

glad to have helped!!!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:54 pm

Well, I'm all done!! Instead of posting all 20 or so pictures here, just check out my album or go to the picture section, they're the first ones on there. Here's a link to my album, but they're not in any particular order??

Raised Step Bars and Raised Safari Bar Pictures

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 4:28 pm

looks good but it looks like your still in need of some spacers on the rear

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 4:42 pm

nice work!!!

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 5:14 pm

I do have 1.25" spacers on the rear!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 12:16 am

I hate to ask this...

I have had my step bars off for over two weeks now, and only drilled on hole for the e-brake line in a single bracket.

Decided to finish up the first bracket tonight. Luckily we recently acquired a FREE old srill press. A nice one too, pulley style.

I discovered I can drill the outside hole with no problem, but the inside hole (the hole next to the 90o bend going from the frame to the stepbar) Cant be reached by the drill press, due to the bend at the end of the bracket that the bar connects to hitting the top half of my drill press and canting the part sideways, I cant get the bit to reach the hole, with the bracket right side up, or upside down.

Only option I see is a hand held drill, I have a good 14.4V dewalt, but ill drain a battery making one hole in this sucker. We have corded drills, but the chuck isnt big enough for the bit.

So, I think my answer is the cordless drill.. itll just take forever. but asking for any tips from people who have done this before?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:52 am

Slow is best. Use oil and spring for a new bit.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 10:05 am

If you are drilling fairly hard material I would highly recommend titanium nitride bits. I have drilled out roll-pins with them without damage to the bit. As f9k9 said also regardless of bit type slow and with oil for coolant/lubrication is best.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 3:13 pm

Well, first tried sharpening the bits since our bench grinder has a drill bit guide for sharpening... Didnt seem to work too well... The tip of the drill bit was rounded, not pointed after sharpening.. ill just have to practice I guess. BUt I started the isnide hole with my drill, starting with a small bit and working my way up.

Smallest hole no problem, going to a bigger bit, and went no where... I didnt have any good cutting oil here, did a google search and saw that dish washing liquid soap would be used,, so used that.

Well, I ended up going out to Lowes and bought a new 1/2" bit and a 5/8" bit. Came back, and drilled the hole with no problem! I even discovered a way to unbolt the press from its base and move it around so i could drill all the hoels using the press.

So,, got one done,, 7 more to go, lol. And apperantly I got one of the holes off cetner once the drill started,, Guess it walked some, even thoughtI center punched it (using the dull bits before the trip to lowes), and it was off center, So i had to dremel the hole out.

Anyways, as long as I dont get a hole off center, should be good to go. I thought the bits we had were pretty good.. apperantly not. The ones I got from lowes are night and day! I just wonder if it was my sharpering skills that hurt me more then the the quality of the bit...

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 9:44 pm

Time for another little rant, The 5/8" bit is pretty nice for drilling the holes for the studs in the bracket.

Now no matter how good i measure, even with my digital calipers, im always offf a bit, but is still do able. ThenI found out today that the studs have a weld or something at the bottom of the stud! So, even though the hole is big enough to fit the stud and have a little wiggle room, it wont set flush with the frame becuase of that wel being wider then the hole i drilled!

I just wonder how big of an issue that would be if i did nothing and just tightened em all down? But either way, my dremel can fix it. 2 brackets down, 6 more to go.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:21 am

Just tighten them down.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:48 pm

top_sgt wrote:i sure can......

on the right side of the cable in this pic is a connector.(just to right of nerf bracket, ) there are tabs in the center of the connector that can be pryed out a little to allow the cable to slip out of the connector. first you loosen the adjuster on the brake cable. this is in this pic...

after you loosen the cable, pry out the tabs on the connector...slide the cable out.

if you still have questions let me know!! hope this helps!!

When he was tlaking about loosening the adjuster, he ment the threaded portion that is just out of vie, to the right, in this picture right? Will unscreweing it some, be enough to pop the cable out of the conector in the first picture?

Then to put it all back together just screw it back to where it orignally was im sure.?

Do I have that right?

Also,,, would it hurt any of that (the parking brake connectors/cables) if it got sprayed with undercoating?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:29 am

Search a little more and include Barch's name. That is an adjustment point but, the real adjustment is done inside the rear rotor. Do not adjust your e brakes there. Mark it before you disassemble it.

Ain't all of this fun?

It get's better, trust me. You are doing well on your searches though.

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Multiple Questions before installing body lift...

Multiple Questions before installing body lift...

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