Engine/Performance mods for 4.3L

cdnuser · Post by **cdnuser** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:03 pm

I am looking at squeezing some more ponies out of my 4.3.

What engine or performance upgrades have you guys done.

I was thinking of...

New plugs and wires
Cold air intake
Flowmaster exhaust

Any pointers or tips??

What wires or plugs would you guys recommend?

Anyone have experience with programmers?

Thanks!

PS. Switching to full synthetic oils. mobil 1 or castrol?? Also heard some good things about royal purple.

1337vending · Post by **1337vending** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:14 pm

Well, apart from adding a V8 or turbo there's nothing that's going to make these trucks "fast"

But as far as performance mods go I have the

Magnaflow catback - Great sound, slightly better performance. (sounds kinda like the 84-87 Buick Grand National now)

K&N reusable filter - no real seat of the pants improvement, but hey at least I can clean it every 15k miles rather than buying a new paper one.

EFI Live custom tune - This is about the only thing that will bring the truck to life. Changing the transmission shift points, shift timing and removing torque management will do wonders for driveability. I know the 03 PCM will let you read/flash but I'm not sure about the other years. Not to mention i still get 15.5-16 mpg in the city with much better power from 2k-4k RPM.

I wouldn't recommend the hypertech programmer, it doesn't do much for you other than let you change the tire size. The transmission shift firmness changes the line pressure for the trans (only thing it really does is make it shift harder in the parking lot) and the performance tuning doesn't really net any appreciable difference in acceleration.

My opinion on CAIs is that almost all of them are worthless, since all they do is open up the filter to hot engine air, rather than sucking cool air through the fender. Unless you're planning on making 400hp from our 4.3 V6 with its broomstick cam, you really shouldn't need the extra airflow. But then again, that's just my opinion and someone will probably disagree with me...

Other things that make the truck better to drive are polyurethane front sway bar bushings, and adding the rear sway bar. Also changing out the stock shocks...all those I think are worth just as much as adding performance to the 4.3

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:31 am

He hit most of them on the head. I've got the K&N FIPK on mine, and aside from making some more noise, it doesn't really do much. I have intentions of getting the rest of those mods done as well. (Cat-Back, Shocks, Sway bars, etc).

ALTHOUGH.....

I think you should seriously invest in a wideband,and tune the VE tables if you have EFILive. I think there are some serious MPG gains to be had with a custom tune, and if you have the eqipment, there's no reason to not pursue it.

Also my old roomate had exceptional luck with an underdrive pulley set, and an electric fan. In fact at the moment those are the only mods on the 2.2 in my Xtreme, and I've won fastest 4cyl at S-series Nationals for the last two years, against some differently modded trucks.

Aside from those, you are going to need to get a cam and heads work or a power added (Turbo, Supercharger, or N2O) to get any truly appreciable gains.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:48 am

Start with a good tune-up. If This is what I used: NGK Irridium plugs, Taylor SpiroPro wires, Neihoff Cap and Rotor. Add a fuel filter, coolant flush, transmission flush with filter change. Then go looking for performance enhancements.

Horsepower , Intake

HenryJ wrote:...If you're wanting to make HP improvements. Do the exhaust first. Open it up and let it flow.

Then I'd "swiss" or cut the stock air box.

Next on the list would be investing in a programmer to rid yourself of those mushy shifts and put some premium in for power programming.

Exhaust vs intake vs hypertech

You have heard from the one opposed to the HPPIII. I will admit that a reprogrammed computer is nice, but way too expensive if you make lots of changes and need to reprogram over and over.
With the HPPIII you pay once and change as many times as you want to.
I will not get into the whole debate in this thread. If you check, of those who have made any computer changes the majority of members here are using the HPPIII.
I am and I would not want to have to go without it.

What gears do you have?

1337vending · Post by **1337vending** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 10:33 am

HenryJ wrote: You have heard from the one opposed to the HPPIII. I will admit that a reprogrammed computer is nice, but way too expensive if you make lots of changes and need to reprogram over and over.
With the HPPIII you pay once and change as many times as you want to.
I will not get into the whole debate in this thread. If you check, of those who have made any computer changes the majority of members here are using the HPPIII.
I am and I would not want to have to go without it.

It's better than the stock tune, especially if you can pick one up for cheap(~$150). I have a copy of EFILive ($700ish) and it's only $99 for an additional vehicle...so unless you know someone who can do a wideband tune, it's not really worth it. Like your sig says, "Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-mechanic from Mad Max-

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 10:49 am

You are exactly right!

A custom tune will do much more than a "cracker box tuner". One size does not fit all.
If you have all the mods and don't make any further changes, it would be the best for performance.

The HPPIII does help. If you are after it for strictly horsepower, look elsewhere. The transmission adjustments and speedometer corrections make it worthwhile IMO. For a one size fits all solution, I think it is adequate.

The newer HPPIII can read and clear codes. That doubles the amount of use one can get from it and makes it very attractive.

1337vending · Post by **1337vending** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:29 am

Glad we agree...I would have bought it for speedo correction/tire size adjustment alone...especially if you have a set of winter tires and summer tires that are different sizes.

bwenny247 · Post by **bwenny247** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:28 am

cheaper mods:
i agree with the underdrive pulleys, the K&N FIPK is good if you run 3500 RPMS to redline, nice free flowing exhaust, smooth bore throttle body spacer, bigger throttle body, electric fans, MAF sensor (although i don't know about these)

Little more expensive/intensive:
cam, headers, heads, custom tune, turbo, supercharger, new gears

HPPIII is good for changing tire size or gears or removing the top speed achievable

with my mods i could bark my 33X12.50 mud terrains on dry pavement from a stand still and tare it up offroad

cdnuser · Post by **cdnuser** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:44 am

bwenny247 wrote:
HPPIII is good for changing tire size or gears or removing the top speed achievable

with my

Sorry, what is a HPPIII?

As for gears, I am not entirely sure. I bought the truck used. Anyway of finding out with the VIN?

I would be interested in a V8 swap down the road. What V8 would work the best in our truck with the least amount of mods? Keeping 4 wheel drive of course.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 11:10 am

HPPIII = Hypertech Power Programmer

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:28 pm

cdnuser wrote:As for gears, I am not entirely sure. I bought the truck used. Anyway of finding out with the VIN?

Look in the glovebox..
Deciphering RPO Glovebox Codes the code for the gearing starts with G
most later models have 3.42s, most earlier models have 3.73s ... I think?

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Sat May 12, 2007 6:47 pm

Just curious.....I own a 2002 ZR-5, I have just recently installed a K&N intake, have a HPIII which I haven't taken out of the box yet..ordered a Magnaflow 15825 catback, am thinking about a Jet thermostat....I am doing this to improve towing...I pull a 2006 Jayco Select pop-up...~3200 pounds loaded...what kind of gains do you think I can make??? What settings would you recommend for transmission shift points and firmness??? Thanks for the help guys!!!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat May 12, 2007 7:56 pm

cpgilmer wrote:....I own a 2002 ZR-5, I have just recently installed a K&N intake, have a HPIII which I haven't taken out of the box yet..ordered a Magnaflow 15825 catback, am thinking about a Jet thermostat....I am doing this to improve towing...I pull a 2006 Jayco Select pop-up...~3200 pounds loaded...what kind of gains do you think I can make??? What settings would you recommend for transmission shift points and firmness???

What gears do you have? Stock tire size?

Follow the directions for setting the shift points. I like the shift firmness. Check out some of the threads on this subject. The opinions are all over the place.

Add an auxiliary cooler for the transmission to the top of your list.

Welcome

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Sun May 13, 2007 2:08 am

My bad, I had the boys at the Goodyear dealership install a tranny cooler, coil-over rear shocks, and a set of Cooper HTs last fall. I am a little nervous about the Magnaflow system...by reputation they have a quality product...I am looking to get a little more torque but DO NOT want that loud "Fast and the Furious" sound...a little more deep and throaty will be fine but not obnoxious... I believe the rear-end is a 3:42, I will look into that today....thanks....

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 13, 2007 4:24 am

I think you have all the pieces to get it performing well without digging into the hard parts internally. For towing I think your job is about done.

A good set of plug wires would be worthwhile. I think the stock wires are poor. Changing out the coolant and replacing the cap are "must do" as well.
If you run in a hot climate , you might consider the extra capacity radiator. For colder climates you will likely be fine though.

Keep an eye on that FIPK. It took some time, but mine became problematic. There is a whole thread on that topic.

The best thing to do is get out and enjoy it. Save some money for fuel. The gearing you have will be good for highway mileage. When you are towing it may hurt you. Not enough to warrant a gear change though.

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Sun May 13, 2007 5:21 am

Living up here in MN we don't see too bad a climate...some days will see mid-90's...but those are good days to stay home in the air conditioning anyhow.

Any thoughts on what the Magnaflow Catback will do for the truck??? Is it going to be too loud or have a nice rumble?? I think I am going to order that Jet 180 thermostat if I can find out where to get one...

Thanks for all the help guys...I am going to try and get some pics up this week!!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 13, 2007 6:45 am

cpgilmer wrote:... thoughts on what the Magnaflow Catback will do for the truck??? Is it going to be too loud or have a nice rumble?

Magnaflow Exhaust
Magnaflow exhaust discoloring
exhaust options
exhaust, what to use?

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:04 am

Well, got out the old window sticker...3.73 gears, that explains my milage with the truck! But it will serve me better in the long run with my trailer. Thanks for all the help guys...I am off to Checker to look for that thermostat!! I will let you know how everything turns out when all is finally installed!!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:13 am

Check out the thread on Deciphering the RPO code list. That will tell you everything.

You may benefit from a little taller tires when the time comes.

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:26 am

Well, Checker wasn't able to help me out....I just bought a Jet from the JEGS website on e-Bay...25.00 when when all was said and done...looks like I have long project list this week....

cdnuser · Post by **cdnuser** » Sun May 13, 2007 8:35 am

I have thought about getting a new exhaust system put in but first I have to get to the BL.

When I do though I was thinking of going dual but out the sides. Dual tips on both sides mounted horizontal with the body. Too many guys around my area have dual exhaust out back with the large chrome outlets. I like the look of that too, but I have to be different.

I had a magnaflow system on my car and loved the sound, but It rusted out very quickly. The welds on the muffler fell apart. Not good but not typical of magnaflow either. Usally they have a great quailty product.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun May 13, 2007 10:20 am

cdnuser wrote:I have thought about getting a new exhaust system put in but first I have to get to the BL..............................

No need to wait. Just tell the shop that you are planning to do one. Mine turned out fine but, I'm not running duals

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am

Well, Jet 180 thermostat installed, HPIII tuned, FIPK in place...I just found out my Magnaflow catback system is backordered until the end of July, that bites. But, I should do okay pulling the camper without it. I ended up bumping my shift points up 200rpm 1-2, 400rpm 2-3, and 500rpm 3-4. As per hypertech I moved the rev limiter to 5800. I also tuned for premium fuel. Set the shift firmness for 50% firmer. Seems to be a little more giddy up in passing gear. Any other suggestions????? Thanks

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:22 am

cpgilmer wrote:I ended up bumping my shift points up 200rpm 1-2, 400rpm 2-3, and 500rpm 3-4.

Just so you are aware, raising the shifts points with the Hypertech will do nothing for normal driving.

The higher shift points only work @ wide open throttle which is mostly for fine tuning 1/4 mile runs at the drag strip.

It can however work on a daily driver if you frequently run at WOT.

Set the shift firmness for 50% firmer

This setting works at all throttle positions and is usually what you notice right away after programming.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:27 am

I called Hypertech and told them I was towing, the tech suggested these shift points so the tranny will not be shifting back and forth as much when pulling the trailer. If this is not true, what suggestions would anyone have to set up my crew for optimal towing? Thanks for the help??

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:51 am

cpgilmer wrote:I called Hypertech and told them I was towing, the tech suggested these shift points so the tranny will not be shifting back and forth as much when pulling the trailer. If this is not true, what suggestions would anyone have to set up my crew for optimal towing? Thanks for the help??

That's strange.

It clearly says in the instructions that the shift points only work @ WOT.

Every Hypertech programmer I have used is this way, unless they have changed something recently.

It looks like you have already done quite a bit to improve performance, and the only other thing I would recommend is a tranny cooler if you don't already have one.

Even trucks that don't tow will benefit from from an auxiliary cooler that keeps the tranny temps under control better than the factory water to oil cooler in the radiator.

Some other options that would help towing would be the Corvette 2nd gear servo and a larger 4 gear servo.

For most towing situations, except for light loads or small trailers, I would recommend towing in 3rd gear to prevent torque converter cycling.

This is still debated idea though and some believe that towing in 4th gear is better.

Try 4th and if you experience TC cycling then go to 3rd.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:58 am

I just got this off their web site, so maybe they have changed the way the shift points work.

"You can also adjust automatic transmission shift points for maximum performance for quicker acceleration and better 1/4 mile times, as well as adjust the part-throttle shifting to work properly with non-stock tire sizes and/or non-stock rearend gear ratios."

If this is true then go with what the tech told you.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:59 am

I believe I will call Hypertech back this afternoon and explain what I am doing to them again. I am towing, not racing. See if I get a different answer.

I had a tranny cooler put on as soon as I bought the truck...I also had coil over shocks put on the back so the truck wouldn't squat as much with the trailer...the trailer (Jayco Select tent trailer) has a 450lb tongue weight....this year I have already went to a equalizer hitch....so thats not an issue anymore.

I think after the Magnaflow exhaust....if the truck struggles at all I maybe headed to a Duramax, especially with gas on the rise to $4 a gallon!!! Yikes....

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 23, 2007 9:32 am

cpgilmer wrote:I think after the Magnaflow exhaust....if the truck struggles at all I maybe headed to a Duramax, especially with gas on the rise to $4 a gallon!!! Yikes....

Well, it sounds like you have done all the right things.

Gas is pretty close to $4 a gallon here!!!!!!!!

Steve

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed May 23, 2007 10:35 am

I've been thinking the same thing lately. I've already got "two-foot-itis" with the new boat. Might as well get a truck capable of towing my next 4 boats when I upgrade this time. The ZR5 is right on the edge of capable with this one, so I'll need a new truck before I can get that new boat

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 23, 2007 10:38 am

I decided to check out what the Hypertech owners manual says about shift points for our S-Series trucks and here is what I found.

"The shift point option allows you to change the RPM at which
your transmission shifts at wide-open throttle, to find the very best
shift points for maximum acceleration"

This is conflicting to what Hypertech says on their web site.

I really didn't think they had changed the way the shift points work, so it is still true that altering the shifts points will only work @ WOT.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Wed May 23, 2007 11:00 am

Thanks guys....all the help is appreciated....we are headed out with the trailer this weekend. I will let you know how the trip goes....thanks again for all the insight!

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Fri May 25, 2007 7:00 am

Alright gang....well, my Magnaflow 15825 is out until early August now...is there another alternative to gain the same horsepower and torque out there?? Thanks

Chris

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri May 25, 2007 7:13 am

Stop by you local exhaust shop and have them install a nice 3" single catback with a free flowing muffler.
A little smaller pipe will heat faster if you don't drive much distance regularly, or if systems tend to rot out fast in your climate.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri May 25, 2007 7:13 am

cpgilmer wrote:...is there another alternative to gain the same horsepower and torque out there??

There are lots of performance exhaust options out there, but what it really comes down to is the sound you're looking for.

I personally like the Flowmaster Super 40's, Hooker Aero Chamber's, and Spintech's.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Fri May 25, 2007 8:44 am

I am looking for a nice throaty sound...as close to a V-8 as possible I guess. I do not want that "chainsaw" sound effect I see all the kids running around with on their Neons or Escorts....

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri May 25, 2007 8:53 am

cpgilmer wrote:I am looking for a nice throaty sound...as close to a V-8 as possible I guess.

The only way to get it to sound a little bit like a V8 is to run a dual exhaust, but if you want to keep it simple and have a little more low end torque then go with a single 2-1/2" or 3" I/O muffler connected to a 3" tailpipe.

The mufflers I listed above will still produce a good deep sound with a single exhaust, however it will not really sound like a V8, but definitely not like a "ricer"

either.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Fri May 25, 2007 9:01 am

Does Flowmaster offer a catback system for our trucks??

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri May 25, 2007 9:59 am

cpgilmer wrote:Does Flowmaster offer a catback system for our trucks??

They don't make a cat back for the S10 Crew Cab, but I was able to modify their Force II cat back system designed for Extended Cab S10's to fit the Crew Cab.

I remember having to shorten the tailpipe about 6" and raise the rear exhaust hanger bracket, but that's about it.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Fri May 25, 2007 12:07 pm

I went to "Exhaust Pros" today, they are going to hook me up on Thursday...Magnaflow SI/SO muffler, 2 1/2" catback for like 200 bucks....I figured i'd give it a try

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri May 25, 2007 1:11 pm

cpgilmer wrote:I went to "Exhaust Pros" today, they are going to hook me up on Thursday...Magnaflow SI/SO muffler, 2 1/2" catback for like 200 bucks....I figured i'd give it a try

Sounds good and that price seems very reasonable.

If you can talk them into it try to get a 3" pipe from the muffler to the back of the truck.

When they bend the tubing they "crimp bend" the tubing on a hydraulic bender which reduces the diameter of a 2-1/2" pipe to around 2-1/8" around the bends which will slightly hurt performance.

That's just one of reasons why most people suggest getting a 3" cat back.

The larger tubing will also give a a deeper tone.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Fri May 25, 2007 5:09 pm

I asked about a 3", I was told he would need a mandrel bender which his shop doesn't have....he said the tone will be alittle deeper but the Magnaflow muffler will open up the system and let the engine breath...I will still get the towing performance I want but a quieter sound which is okay (keep the wife happier!!)

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat May 26, 2007 6:49 am

cpgilmer wrote:I asked about a 3", I was told he would need a mandrel bender which his shop doesn't have....

He owns an exhaust shop and doesn't have the capability to bend 3" tubing?

I am very surprised, and he is losing a lot of business since a lot of high output small block, big block, and diesel vehicles all use 3" or larger tubing.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat May 26, 2007 7:27 am

Quite a few shops in this area don't have the capability to do 3". This mush be the break point for the size of the dies and older machine can fit.
The two shops I have been to around here use a mandrel bender for 3"

The Diesel stuff around here is going 4" or 5" now.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat May 26, 2007 11:14 am

HenryJ wrote:Quite a few shops in this area don't have the capability to do 3". This mush be the break point for the size of the dies and older machine can fit.
The two shops I have been to around here use a mandrel bender for 3"

The Diesel stuff around here is going 4" or 5" now.

Nearly every shop around here can bend 3" tubing on their standard hydraulic "press" benders.

There are some shops that claim they do "mandrel" bending, but a lot of them use the ram style (press), or rotary draw benders that still do a pretty good job of not crushing the tubing, but they are not "true" mandrel benders.

CAD programmable mandrel benders are several thousand to a few hundred thousand dollar machines.

Here in CA there are only 3 CAD programmable "true" mandrel benders that I know of and all of them want well over $1000 to custom bend an entire exhaust system.

Flowmaster in Santa Rosa CA has 1 of those super nice mandrel benders.

I've visited them a few times and watched their CAD programmed bender at work.

I was very close to taking a job with them back in 2001, but they didn't want to pay very much to start out.

Steve

cpgilmer · Post by **cpgilmer** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:31 am

Well, its July ands the truck is finally done. Installed the Magnaflow catback last night....that was a whole lot of fun!! The truck sounds a little better, it will be interesting this weekend to see how much of a difference the exhaust makes....

Would anybody have a guess to the gain I should have made by making my changes...I installed a FIPK, Magnaflow Catback 15825, Tuned with a HPIII for 93 octane, installed the JET 180 thermostat??? I think thats about all I can do for towing without getting tooooo expensive. Of course the tranny cooler was installed with the class III hitch. The truck came with 3:73 gears so it pulls pretty hard now. Any other ideas for towing??

snowsurfer · Post by **snowsurfer** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:27 pm

I've owned S10's for over 23 years & love them. Done V8 swaps on a half a dozen and SC on my last two, 2001 & 2003. Like someone said earlier, it all boils down to how much $$$ you want to spend. I reccommend that you set a limit of what you can spend and then work from there as to what you can get for that amount...

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:01 pm

I'm trying to find good information and specs on V8 conversion in Crewcabs. I have this deep desire to build a real S-10 Crewcab HOTROD !!! I can't even find anything on V8s10.org. HELP !!

CrashNburn · Post by **CrashNburn** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 12:43 am

whats the difference between an s-10, an s-10 extended, and an s-10 crew?? i cant see how a V-8 swap would be much different between them.

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:16 am

the Crew Cab`s drivetrain is basically identical to other 4WD S-series pickups. even the driveshafts are the same between the C.C.`s and the Ext. Cab 4WD`s... with the possible exception of ZR2 equipped models...

CrashNburn · Post by **CrashNburn** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:18 am

then thats a pretty easy swap to do. depending on what engine you use, (EFI, carbed)..... it could be as simple as making new locator brackets for your engine mounts, and running a piggy back system for your engine.

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:31 am

there are 4WD mounts available for GEN 1/2 SBC swaps, for fairly cheap...

a Vortec 305/350 is a fairly easy swap, as only 2-3 wires need to be added between the PCM and the engine. the 4.3 PCM`s can be re-flashed for Vortec (305/350)V8`s, at least the 2000-older ones can be, for certain... not sure about the 2001-later.
although the fullsize vans still use the 305/350`s through the 2002 model year, not sure which style PCM they used in 01/02....

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:42 am

I Thank you for the help, but when I say real HOTROD, I mean 400 Plus Horsepower. Big Block is the only way to get that kind of power that is reliable for everyday use. So what do you say about that kind of conversion ??

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:00 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:when I say real HOTROD, I mean 400 Plus Horsepower. Big Block is the only way to get that kind of power that is reliable for everyday use.

There are plenty of factory LS series small block V-8's that make over 400 hp "reliably".

GM Part # 17801268 (LS6) 5.7L 405 hp, 400 ft. #'s of torque
GM Part # 19156261 (LS2) 6.0L 400 hp, 400 ft. #'s of torque
GM Part # 17802134 (364) Carbureted LS2 6.0L 440 hp, 412 ft. #'s of torque
GM Part # 19165485 (L92) 6.2L 403 hp, 417 ft. #'s of torque
GM Part # 17802397 (LS7) 7.0L 505 hp, 470 ft. #'s of torque

All of these motors are capable of 20+ mpg.

Steve

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:00 pm

WOW !! I didn't realize a 427 is a SB. I think that means it will bolt up to my 4L60E with minor mods,then just some suspension upgrades,and YEEHA !!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:19 am

Reggie is running the new LSX 454 small block in his Camaro.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:27 am

HenryJ wrote:Reggie is running the new LSX 454 small block in his Camaro.

Yep, and that motor still being a "small block" easily made over 600 hp and 500 ft. #'s or torque.

Supposedly the new LSX "iron block" is capable of holding 2500 hp

although nobody needs that much power on the street.

GM Performance Parts will offer the same motor that went into Reggie's car as a crate engine in early 2008.

Steve

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:04 am

Has anyone done this radical of a conversion to a Crewcab ? I sure would like to talk about it with someone who knows.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:15 am

Horsehammerr wrote:Has anyone done this radical of a conversion to a Crewcab ? I sure would like to talk about it with someone who knows.

I don't know of any Crew Cabs with a V-8 conversion, however there are plenty of late model S10's with V-8 conversions on other sites like ZR2USA.com

Steve

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:22 am

there are plenty of modded GEN 1/2 SBC`s out there exceeding 400 hp in daily drivers. a 383 or 406 can do that, and still have basically stock like idle qualities.....

as for big block swaps, i`ve seen them in 2WD S-10`s never heard of one in a 4WD.

i`ve heard of a guy doing a Duramax Diesel swap into a ZR2 pickup....

CrashNburn · Post by **CrashNburn** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:08 am

doing a diesel swap would be awesome!!

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:50 am

killian96ss wrote:I don't know of any Crew Cabs with a V-8 conversion,

Guy on S-seriesforum.com just finished one up....Lifted white crew cab....put a vortec 350 in there in place of the 4.3L.....I'll try to find the link.

Heres the thread