Stronger front tow points for our Sonomas

[mjmcdowell]

Ok..... Have heard that the stock front tow hooks on our CC's can fail, with this in mind I have come up with a simple fix (yes I know there have been post's on this before ) First you remove the hooks then you need 2 pieces of steel bar stock 1" thick, 1 3/4'' wide and long enough to clear the front lower valence, mine are 11 1/2" long as I want it to be even with the front of the grill guard that I have (measure yours for your length) and 2 3/4' screw pin shackles. Using the stock tow hook as a drill guide space and drill two proper size hole(s) in the bar stock and use new 2" grade #8 bolts, lockwashers and nuts to attach to the stock hook location inside the frame (4 sets). On the other end drill a 3/4" hole to fit the 3/4" shackle/screw pin. Do this on a second identical piece as well and once all the holes are drilled ,check the fit then bolt them on (I put the nuts and lock washers on the bottom). The shackles are orientated vertical as opposed to horzontaly as is usually seen but I don't think this will effect its use. The stock tow hooks are threaded and the new ones are thru bolted I don't see this as a problem. As near as I can tell the forces/stress on the new tow points will be the same as stock (but with stronger materials used) the possibility of failing is next to none (always think before pulling, snatching , recovering, and do it with safety in mind). What do you fourmites think? I think it will work, question me if anything is not clear, I will post photos when i learn how, stay safe, mjmcdowell

[HenryJ]

On a straight pull it might be ok, but I question the strength of the bar stock with a 3/4" hole in it.
Heat treated , perhaps, but mild steel?

I think it is a bad idea. Probably worse than the stock hooks since the length adds leverage.

I think something could be built to work, but you really need to tie both frame rails together to build strength. Keep it short to limit the leverage. Some people have added receiver tubes in the frame rails. That would be as strong as the bolts and frame rails.
I added a receiver hitch to mine. It uses ten bolts to attach and ties the frame rails together. Front hidden hitch

If you are worried about the stock hook strength, you can use a set from a mid ninties fullsize 3/4 ton. They are the same design, just beefier. The bolt spacing is the same, so no modifications are needed. I have use them on 20,000 lb dump trucks with success.

[mjmcdowell]

HJ....... Ha! I figured the master of mods would reply, yeah I was wondering about the leverage w/length as a possible factor. Ok... from center of the fore most hole in the barstock to center of the hole for the shackle is 6 3/8", the distance from the center of the foremost hole in the stock tow hook to the inside center of the stock tow hook bend is 6 1/4", also the stock tow hook is only 1/2" thick, now if you attach a 3/4" shackle to the bar which would be 1" thick to a 3/4" hole the leading edge of which is 6/8" from the end I think the stresses, etc would be about that of stock, given the shackle adds some length (3") I think a pull 10 deg. in any direction would not be any more than w/stock in that the valence and bottom of the front bumper are a consideration as they are with the stock hooks. I cannot mount a front reciever or I would I need it because of the forested areas where I live and explore would be hard on the front end without my grill/brush guard combination, ( you know I have the limb risers Ha!) eh????, stay safe, mjmcdowell

[HenryJ]

The stock hooks have some heat treating. I will grant you that they may be inadequate for a tough pull on a single hook. For a straight front pull they would be hard to damage. As you well know there are no perfectly straight pulls.
Your idea might work, but Id be skeptical as to whether it would be as good the stock hooks. The clevis will add stress. It will not give as easily as the attachment to the stock hooks. It will transfer directional forces vertically. That will make it a full three inches longer for leverage, when compared to the stock hooks.

Now, if you want to beef up some front pulling points, why not beef up the grille guard for a pulling point? Perhaps tie the bars to the grille bar?

How about using all four available bolts on each side of the frame? A wider plate to strengthen it in a side load.

If you are just wanting some clevis' to rattle around on the front, add the bars. The worst they will do is bend and rattle.

If you have room for stock hooks and worry about their strength, the simplest solution is the 2500 hooks.

[F9K9]

My set up is untested but, I can't help to think that my 2nd gen hooks welded to the waag brush/grille guard will add a little strength to the frame horns.

[mjmcdowell]

HJ, you wouldn't have a stock # for those heavy hooks laying around anywhere would you? I think the heavy hooks like you say would be the best solution. I will have to look for a pair, no good salvage yards around here , probably have to go new if I can get them and they are not too $$$. Thanks for the input HJ, it's all good, stay safe, mjmcdowell

[HenryJ]

It really doesn't require a "good" salvage yard. All the 1988-1998 2500 trucks and Suburbans had them. I usually pick up and keep a few pairs on hand at the shop.

You can get a set from Joe or Kelly at Northverde Auto Salvage 1-800-772-1648. Shipping shouldn't be much. Tell them Brule sent you and it might be good for a little discount. Or they might charge you double? I saw several pairs out there last week.
If you have any trouble locating them, I will grab a set for cost plus shipping.

[Walt]

Reed, the tow hooks you and I have are pretty stout. After Katrina I gave the crew a workout pulling trees around. Several pieces weighed more than the crew. One almost pulled me into a ditch. No bending of the tow hooks or frame

[mjmcdowell]

HJ... Now you have me thinking, mabey a front reciever could do the trick (that could also mean a winch in the forcast at some later date, can't wait to run that one past the war dept. if you know what I mean) Anyway I down loaded part #65004 Draw-tite and if, (I think a big if with no modding of the brackets of which I am not to keen about attempting "drilling and blasting" mods. are not my fortey) it just may fit as I have a Westin grill guard #361895 mounted on my truck . If this can be done this will definately be the way I will go, can't tell tho from the mounting ins. as to the top to bottom measurement on the hitch bracket if it will clear the grill gard mounting bracket(s) I am going to a couple of hitch places tomorrow and try to determine if this is do able as this probably the best and has multiple use possibilities, enough already, stay safe, mjmcdowell

[HenryJ]

That is an excellent choice. Multifunctionality.

With a High T-bar hitch mounted you can carry a canoe on the roof rack, A push bar can be slipped in, a step, front hitch for maneuvering a boat into tight places, excellent tow point, snow plow mount , winch mount. I am sure you can think of a few dozen more

[04crewvt]

That is an excellent choice. Multifunctionality.

With a High T-bar hitch mounted you can carry a canoe on the roof rack, A push bar can be slipped in, a step, front hitch for maneuvering a boat into tight places, excellent tow point, snow plow mount , winch mount. I am sure you can think of a few dozen more

I agree, thats why I went with the Hidden Hitch from Summit Racing.
Add to the list spare tire carrier, bike carrier, mini hitch basket.skid roller bar

[mjmcdowell]

Ok..... this is what I decided to do and have done. For me and how I use my truck I think this will work best since after all the measuring was done I would have to lose the front end guard which I am not ready to do, so no front reciever and no winch either. Honestly since the days of my FJ-40 any problems I have encountered have been solved with a combination of hi-lift jack, comealong hand tools and some time and patence. I have mounted a 12" reciever tube in each front frame horn using the same holes and new grade 8 hardware. The tubes protrude only 5" out from the frame horns ( which is not much more than the stock hooks) and fit very snug next to the brush guard . The pin hole (laterly oriented) is about a 1/8" behind the guard/bracket as it stands slightly off the bumper as mounted. Now I can use a hook/clevis drawbar, or just use the hitch pin for recovery with chafe guard ( when chafe guard is used properly a tow strap is safe from abrasion I used chafe guards of various materials sucessfuly in my sailing days). The grill guard, since the brackets bolt to the frame end (s) with two bolts on a 41/2" surface (L shaped bracket and bottom bolted) on the inside side 1/8" from the end and has two cross peices between the side frames one just above the bumper and one at the top it actually adds to the whole set up some lateral streingth. All things considered I think this might be stronger then stock tow hooks and the leverage question will be less , 2 bolts hold the tubesJuse like OEM so I dont think there is any strength issue either, overall I'm satisfied. I know that this all mabey hard to picture wtithout a photo....sorry, stay safe mjmcdowell

[HenryJ]

The receiver tubes have been used by several other trucks with success. Sounds like a good choice