Locking front differential.

apcrews10 · Post by **apcrews10** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:13 pm

Does anybody here have a CC that has a locking front diff? Probably not. I found a company that makes a locking unit for the 7.25 IFS diff. The only problem is they say it probably would not be good for any sort of street driving.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:15 pm

Am pretty sure I read it in this forum but, from what I understand about them it can be a terror on our stock front ends.

apcrews10 · Post by **apcrews10** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:17 pm

I believe it is called a Lock-Rite?

malkavian · Post by **malkavian** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:25 pm

From my experience looking into this ( HJ can correct me if I am wrong.) If it is the lock rite you are talking about it shouldnt matter on the street unless you engage your 4wd on the street ( I dont mean on slick snowy streets).

Or front diffs have a axle dissconect so that when 4wd is not engaged it is just free spinning. So the only time you would have to worry about it is while you are off road. I dont think so far that I would be afraid to put one in but you wouldnt want to do any extreme stuff while you where off road. Thats just my opinion. I ran lock rites in my front and rear on my old xj dana 35 rear and dana 30 front. I never had any problems and I did moderate off road stuff with it.

But I have never had one in a ifs truck.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:40 pm

It's been a long time since this came up on this site but if I remember right, it's the strength (or lack of) of the IFS that's the issue. Supposedly, putting a lock-rite or any other type of locker in the 7.25" diff is a really good way to blow it up. I haven't had any desire to try it myself.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 6:11 am

It's nore the u-joints and half-shafts than the actual differential I think. Not that the diff is super strong, it's pretty weak too, but first part to break would probably be the u-joints or shafts.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:14 pm

AZS10Crew wrote:It's nore the u-joints and half-shafts than the actual differential I think. Not that the diff is super strong, it's pretty weak too, but first part to break would probably be the u-joints or shafts.

Common denominator here is the word "break".

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:08 pm

break = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 9:31 pm

You could try an upgrade to the iron-cased diff housing from a Typhoon or Syclone, possibly from and AWD Chevy Astro - the AWD vehicles had stronger diff casings and I'm sure internals to deal with the AWD loads.

What about the AWD 2nd gen Bravadas and Blazers - maybe that would be the way to go?

Post by **Walt** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 6:42 am

Don't the ZR2's have a larger/stronger front and rear diff? That might be an option as well.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:52 am

f9k9 wrote:Am pretty sure I read it in this forum but, from what I understand about them it can be a terror on our stock front ends.

The front end left stock is a terror all by itself! lol

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 10:02 am

wamason wrote:Don't the ZR2's have a larger/stronger front and rear diff? That might be an option as well.

To my knowledge - ZR2 has our same front end, just relocted and with longer CV shafts.

Their rear axle is a wider axle with a 8.5" ring instead of our 7.625" setup - so yes, I would call the rear a touch stronger.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 3:14 pm

If you're going to the trouble of swapping front ends, might as well go SFA.