nerf bars / step tubes
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- jeff024
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nerf bars / step tubes
just wonderin what type of step tubes everyone is using and how they like them on the cc s-10?
[size=75]2004 S-10 CREW CAB {TRADED IN}
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
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Just have the stock ZR5's. Haven't been off-road with them much but, if you'd loke a set, I can be had
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- HenryJ
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Westin's here.
Best because it is easy to raise them after a bodylift.
Best because it is easy to raise them after a bodylift.
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Rock sliders
2" x 1/4" square tubing, they were only on 2 weeks and I already jacked my car up by them 6 times and bashed them against a rock. They dont budge
My friend fabbed them up for me in shop class and My dad and I welded them on.
He would be glad to make you some, for pretty cheap too.
Image
Linked the oversized image. 100k limit-HJ
2" x 1/4" square tubing, they were only on 2 weeks and I already jacked my car up by them 6 times and bashed them against a rock. They dont budge
My friend fabbed them up for me in shop class and My dad and I welded them on.
He would be glad to make you some, for pretty cheap too.
Image
Linked the oversized image. 100k limit-HJ
[size=75][url=http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/coffeedrnkr15/]The Crazyblaze[/url]
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d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
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Camelott,
He said he can make them round but would suggest round for the step and square along the rocker. The sliders can range in price depending on what you ask for. (a lot cheaper than aedofab's 340 + shipping)
The above pic is from aedofab's website, but we can do the same thing.
If you are interested you can PM me then we can work out the details from there.
He said he can make them round but would suggest round for the step and square along the rocker. The sliders can range in price depending on what you ask for. (a lot cheaper than aedofab's 340 + shipping)
The above pic is from aedofab's website, but we can do the same thing.
If you are interested you can PM me then we can work out the details from there.
Last edited by coffeedrnkr on Fri Nov 12, 2004 9:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
[size=75][url=http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/coffeedrnkr15/]The Crazyblaze[/url]
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d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
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They have been on ebay several weeks
I thought I posted them in the classifieds but, apparently I didn't. Sorry about that.
I thought I posted them in the classifieds but, apparently I didn't. Sorry about that.
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I didn't notice them before. I have them ordered now. I thought this was a pretty darned good deal! The cheapest I could find them for was about $238 & that was for black ones. Chrome was like $100 more. I hope I did OK. If I know that this was a good deal, it would make my wife proud!!
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
Just wondering what you mean about beeing done! I have had chrome rims and bars on other Rigs and never had a problem with rust, but then again I have seen other Rigs with rust problems.jeff024 wrote:just need to worry about the chrome if there not done well they will start to rust fairly quick
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
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- jeff024
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just the Quality you get what you pay for the westins are good bars but I have seen the smittybuilt rust in less then 2 years then the chrome flakes off.
[size=75]2004 S-10 CREW CAB {TRADED IN}
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
Still, $140 is the cheapest I have seen ANY nerfs for. Black or chrome. So if they last for two years and start to rust, I wouldn't mind sanding them down, primering & painting them. I'd still think that they were worth the money. Wouldn't you agree?
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Isn't this all a moot point since the Ebay nerfs are stainless steel? That's better than black or chrome.
My black grizzly's on my '97 ZR2 were without rust the day I traded.
My black grizzly's on my '97 ZR2 were without rust the day I traded.
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You might want to consider foaming them prior to installation. I did mine and have been really happy with them.
HenryJ wrote: One more thing I did was to get a couple cans of the high expansion foam. wrap tape around the threaded inserts (to protect the threads), then cut disks of card board and using masking tape sealed both ends. Punch a hole in each end and filled them from one end until the foam came out the other.
This adds a little structural strength and more importantly quiets them. You don't get that ringing sound everytime a rock hits them. It may also help to avoid condensation and water from accumulating inside.
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Hey, everyone. Got the new nerf bars & installed `em. Thought I'd share some pics.
I don't like them as much as I thought I would. I think they need to be modded to bring them up the two inches of the BL. I just have to figure out how to do that! The back bracket would be a cinch. Just drill a new hole. The front would require a lot more work. I would probably need to have a whole new bracket fabbed for it. I'm not exactly sure what to do. For now, they'll stay the way they are, I guess.
I don't like them as much as I thought I would. I think they need to be modded to bring them up the two inches of the BL. I just have to figure out how to do that! The back bracket would be a cinch. Just drill a new hole. The front would require a lot more work. I would probably need to have a whole new bracket fabbed for it. I'm not exactly sure what to do. For now, they'll stay the way they are, I guess.
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Definately raise them. It can be done easily!Pauleo wrote:... I think they need to be modded to bring them up the two inches of the BL. I just have to figure out how to do that!
2" raised Westin Signature Series step bars
If you don't want to tie the rear mounts to the spring eye, then like you said, just redrill the hole higher.
Last edited by HenryJ on Mon May 23, 2005 4:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Pauleo,
Those nerf bars look nice, They don't look stainless steel From the picture they look chrome. You wouldn't believe what I paid for my chrome westins I can see your point abount wanting to lift them up, there just exposing to much frame, IMO
Nice Truck
Steve
Those nerf bars look nice, They don't look stainless steel From the picture they look chrome. You wouldn't believe what I paid for my chrome westins I can see your point abount wanting to lift them up, there just exposing to much frame, IMO
Nice Truck
Steve
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
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Really nice truck
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Thanks for the compliments, guys! Right back at ya! It is all of YOUR trucks that keep me wanting more! You know, "Gotta keep up with the Jones's!"
HJ, I read your posts before about raising the nerfs. I really want to do that!!! It just stinks not having the right tools for the job.
I was playing around with the front mounts after I posted the pics and it doesn't seem like it would hard at all. I just need to have a small section of it cut out, then just flip the bracket upside down and it would work great. Doesn't look like the cutting would effect the strength of the bracket. I just have to find someone with a torch or plasma cutter!
BTW, does the bracket on the leaf spring mount really do THAT much to support the weight of people stepping on the nerfs??? It doesn't seem like they really do anything.
HJ, I read your posts before about raising the nerfs. I really want to do that!!! It just stinks not having the right tools for the job.
I was playing around with the front mounts after I posted the pics and it doesn't seem like it would hard at all. I just need to have a small section of it cut out, then just flip the bracket upside down and it would work great. Doesn't look like the cutting would effect the strength of the bracket. I just have to find someone with a torch or plasma cutter!
BTW, does the bracket on the leaf spring mount really do THAT much to support the weight of people stepping on the nerfs??? It doesn't seem like they really do anything.
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
And one more thing! The few people that have seen the nerfs the way they are say I'm stupid for wanting to raise them! They say they look fine the way they are. Of course my wife says, "Why do you always have screw around with stuff?! Why can't you just leave things alone?!" ........
I just tell her & the rest of `em that,
"It's a Crew thing... You wouldn't understand!!!!"
I just tell her & the rest of `em that,
"It's a Crew thing... You wouldn't understand!!!!"
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You don't own a drill and a 1/2" drill bit?Pauleo wrote:...It just stinks not having the right tools for the job.
Just have the shop cut the pieces that you need to the right length.
IIRC, the supplied front mounts don't work very well to flip them upside down and mount. When you space them out far enough for the head of the bolt there is not adequate material left for bolting to the body mount. "Been there , tried that".
Don't waste your time trying to make them work.
Find a metal/welding shop , and buy two pieces of .250 3"x4" angle iron 4" long.
Save the stock front mounts and just redrill the rear mount higher.
If you don't like it , you can go right back and you're only out the two pieces of angle iron. If you decide that you like it, cut the tail off of the bottom of the rear mounts and use the leftovers to build the brackets like mine to tie into the leaf spring bolts.
For my response to "always mess'n with it"...It NEEDS to be right! You lifted the body 2". The bars were designed to the stock body location. Raising them up to the designed position will look much better, IMO.
Yes , there is no flex and I can use a Highlift to jack the truck off the ground at that point now too...does the bracket on the leaf spring mount really do THAT much to support the weight of people stepping on the nerfs?
Last edited by HenryJ on Mon May 23, 2005 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Yeah, yeah!! Of course I have the drill & bit! I was reffering to the torch or plasma cutter. I'm glad you posted on flipping the front brackets! I should have known that you would have tried that. Seems like when you set out to do a project, you research it pretty well! Even if it's something as small as a nerf bar bracket!!! ( That was a compliment. Don't know if it actually sounded like one though! )
So I guess I'll just stop by a welding shop & see if they have any material like that around. I can't imagine it would cost that much. But anyway, it doesn't matter. I gotta get those bars up! I'll keep everyone posted.
As always, .....THANKS!
So I guess I'll just stop by a welding shop & see if they have any material like that around. I can't imagine it would cost that much. But anyway, it doesn't matter. I gotta get those bars up! I'll keep everyone posted.
As always, .....THANKS!
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
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They may even have the pieces in their scrap binPauleo wrote:...I'll just stop by a welding shop & see if they have any material like that around. I can't imagine it would cost that much...
That's where I found mine.
Be sure to fill us in on all the details
Oh, and FYI. I am not the first to do this to side bars. I actually got the idea from Steven's raised step bars. He bent a piece of metal for the front mounts. I felt that the angle iron would be stronger. I saw someone else tie to the spring eye bolt for the rear mount, but can not remember where I stole that idea.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I don't steal ideas, I flatter
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Pauleo,
I know you have alot more available in Lancaster than I have here
I had to have some simple work done to raise my GM brush guard up after my BL and while I was waiting on them to cut and drill some bar stock I looked around their shop. They had scap metal that was mouth watering laying around everywhere.
Make your first contact there a good one. You'll be seeing them again for one reason or another down the road
It will be well worth your while:)
I know you have alot more available in Lancaster than I have here
I had to have some simple work done to raise my GM brush guard up after my BL and while I was waiting on them to cut and drill some bar stock I looked around their shop. They had scap metal that was mouth watering laying around everywhere.
Make your first contact there a good one. You'll be seeing them again for one reason or another down the road
It will be well worth your while:)
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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This guy does. I'm not sure he understands the ebay vocabulary though, as his reserve must be pretty darn close to his buy it now price. I bid $125 and haven't reached the reserve. Still a pretty good deal at buy it now price with free shipping if anyone else is looking.barch97 wrote:WOW!!!
His prices are outstanding. Reasonable shipping as well. Too bad he doesn't have a black set. Or, a link to an online store.
Sweet! I was rather busy today so I'll be stopping by a weld shop tomorrow. I hate to even look at the bars the way the are now. Sorta embarrassed to even drive the truck that way. Hopefully I'll get the angle iron, paint it up nice, & have it all fixed up by tomorrow evening! I'll definately keep all posted & I'll post the new pics as well. So if anyone else wants to see the difference, it will be here on the good ol' board!
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
Update! I got the material needed to make my front brackets. They are fine. But now I need to add a piece of metal between the bar & the back mounting bracket. The mod to the front made it stick out further than the back. Should be a simple fix though. I just need to find some kind of metal stock that is 3" X 3" and about an inch or so thick. I think that would line everthing back up again. I hope to do more work on them tonight after work. If anyone's interested.... ah, never mind! I'm gonna keep you posted anyway!!!
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
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Oh the horror!Pauleo wrote:... I need to add a piece of metal between the bar & the back mounting bracket. The mod to the front made it stick out further than the back. ..
I thought you'd notice that
I just added the brackets to the rear mounts. That makes up about a 1/4" of the difference.
If you make the bolt head real close to the body mount on the front, it will not be too bad.
Keep in mind that you are paying close attention to the alignment right now, and others may never notice the difference.
If it REALLY bugs you you can always add more spacer in the rear. You might just try adding the supplied front mounts to the rear to space them out 1/4", like I did, and see if you can convince yourself to quit noticing it Afterall it is only noticeable if you check them out from the front.
It is not nearly as bad as having them 2" too low.
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HenryJ wrote:Pauleo wrote:... I need to add a piece of metal between the bar & the back mounting bracket. The mod to the front made it stick out further than the back. ..
Oh the horror!
I thought you'd notice that
It is not nearly as bad as having them 2" too low.
Reminds me of my original GM brush guard install, now the "after BL" GM brush guard install and my graphics
On the original brush guard install, I drove myself bonkers trying to even things up. I spent 2 days installing, reinstalling and adjusting it. Like a bad haircut, give it two weeks and you'll be fine
The graphics is uneven (a smidge) on one side (slightly) and the fact I could not redo it was a pita and now I do not remember which side it is
I do not think anyone but you will notice and I do not think any of us will be entering any contests or shows for appearence with our rigs
We like stuff done right but, there is a point where you just "gotta suck it up and drive on"
BTW..................no one hase commented on things that I find wrong with my truck, except the ridiculous yellow and black smiley face KC lamp covers that came with my daylighters. My black ones came in today
Listen to Brule, he's right on this. I wish I had saved the PM but, I have only found him to be wrong (lately) in one piece of advice that he has given me.
"The dealership will most likely never notice your TB crank" (to paraphrase if, Barch is proof reading). Most of them wouldn't notice but, I think he is beginning to understand my luck
Last edited by F9K9 on Fri May 27, 2005 3:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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For the back brackets, I ended up using some nice 3.5" washers that I painted black. You wouldn't notice them unless you were really looking for them. That brought me out almost dead even with the front. But guess what?? I drilled too low in the back so they aren't exactly straight now!! But you know what? I think I'm gonna take that advice about learning to live with it. Heck! At 70 mph, nobody would even notice the bars themselves let alone the slight difference in height!
It was too dark to take pics when I finished. It'll have to wait until tomorrow.
It was too dark to take pics when I finished. It'll have to wait until tomorrow.
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Before...
After...
Much better
It hides the exposed frame now, and looks like it should. Good job!
After...
Much better
It hides the exposed frame now, and looks like it should. Good job!
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Those bars were a steal and certainly made a big difference
Keep us up on your opinion of the brake caliper paint..........whoops...... off topic......off topic
Keep us up on your opinion of the brake caliper paint..........whoops...... off topic......off topic
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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Awwww, go on........HenryJ wrote:Much better ....... Good job!
No! Really! Go on!!!
I did have a bit of problem with a small portion of the new front bracket rubbing on the body mount. Metal to metal didn't sound too good! Even the slightest bump made the rubbing noise. Pretty simple fix though. I just had to take tha bracket back off and grind the corner down a bit. Put it back together and presto chango! No more noise. Just something to watch for if anyone else does this mod.
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Pauleo wrote:Thanks, Barch-Man!
Again, they look good as goed as what they are attached to:)
BTW, I think it was from one of your earliest posts on care/truck care that you recommended "Mothers Back to Black"
Used it today and concur:)
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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- LUVMY02CREW
- Crew
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:03 pm
- Location: Shelbyville, TN
Hey, I know this is an old thread, but this one seemed to match closest with my question out of all of the ones I read from searching: running boards, nerf, westin, etc....
The westin running boards on my truck are beginning to look really bad! (when wifey gets home, I'll try to post a pic or two) The old rusty look is not really what I'm going for with the crew Since the kiddos and I rarely actually use them...it's time for them to move on to the metal recycling yard.
My questions to ya'll......
How do I remove the running boards?
Do I have to move the carpet on the floor back to get to the nut?
Or, is it welded in place and need to be plugged back up after removal of bolt?
Please respond with your answers to these questions and any other tidbits of info that would be useful.....THANKS
edited.........
Here's the linked images:
http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p184 ... C_0022.jpg
http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p184 ... C_0023.jpg
The westin running boards on my truck are beginning to look really bad! (when wifey gets home, I'll try to post a pic or two) The old rusty look is not really what I'm going for with the crew Since the kiddos and I rarely actually use them...it's time for them to move on to the metal recycling yard.
My questions to ya'll......
How do I remove the running boards?
Do I have to move the carpet on the floor back to get to the nut?
Or, is it welded in place and need to be plugged back up after removal of bolt?
Please respond with your answers to these questions and any other tidbits of info that would be useful.....THANKS
edited.........
Here's the linked images:
http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p184 ... C_0022.jpg
http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p184 ... C_0023.jpg
[size=75]ALWAYS pray for and expect the best, but be prepared for the worst! Life seems to operate a little smoother for me this way[/size]
- F9K9
- Mod K Elite
- Posts: 6183
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2004 12:26 pm
- Location: London, Kentucky, United States
No nut in your cab to worry about. I would start soaking the bolts daily for a week with PB Blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep before removing the body mount bolt required. The nut is captive on the body and you pray that you have soaked it enough to not break it loose from the cab or you will need to move the carpet and drill holes to gain access to them.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
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- HenryJ
- Admin K Elite
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The bolts are your body mount bolts and will need to be replaced. I would suggest leaving the brackets and just trying to remove the two bolts that hold the bars to the brackets. If that doesn't work , cut the brackets just above the bars.LUVMY02CREW wrote:Do I have to move the carpet on the floor back to get to the nut?
Or, is it welded in place and need to be plugged back up after removal of bolt?
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- LUVMY02CREW
- Crew
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:03 pm
- Location: Shelbyville, TN
Thanks for the replies! You guys are always on top of things and very helpful.
I ran out of time this weekend, but I guess that'll give me a few days to soak things down before wrenching.
I ran out of time this weekend, but I guess that'll give me a few days to soak things down before wrenching.
[size=75]ALWAYS pray for and expect the best, but be prepared for the worst! Life seems to operate a little smoother for me this way[/size]