Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
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Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
So I have looked everywhere and I can't seem to find a definite answer. I have an 02' CC with 124k miles and I want to do 2 inch rear shackles. I know I would have to crank the t bar but I am wondering what are the cons of doing this?
- HenryJ
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Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
Adjusting to max z-height is fine. Exceed that and you risk CV boots, or joints and ball joints. Careful with shackles if you intend to tow. There can be enough lateral movement to rub the driveshaft on the fuel tank.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
What is z-height?HenryJ wrote:Adjusting to max z-height is fine. Exceed that and you risk CV boots, or joints and ball joints. Careful with shackles if you intend to tow. There can be enough lateral movement to rub the driveshaft on the fuel tank.
- HenryJ
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- Posts: 12705
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
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Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
The S-10crewcab.net logo at the top of the page links to our home page. there are several useful links there including "Stock information" and modifications.
All this was complied by members and added to those pages over more than a decade now Great resource!
The answer you seek is here: Trim height measurements Some of that is open to interpretation as you will see the diagram has the ball joins oriented differently. The key is that you must not exceed the adjustment that exceeds the range of adjustment for camber and caster. Adjust to max z-height and be prepared to back the torsion bars off a little to get the alignment right.
All this was complied by members and added to those pages over more than a decade now Great resource!
The answer you seek is here: Trim height measurements Some of that is open to interpretation as you will see the diagram has the ball joins oriented differently. The key is that you must not exceed the adjustment that exceeds the range of adjustment for camber and caster. Adjust to max z-height and be prepared to back the torsion bars off a little to get the alignment right.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons? Suspention, body lift, shoks
Hey Y'all, 02 extended cab ( hope I don't piss off crew cab purists) taking on a new project 4x4. I've been reading and trying to not over raise, but put about 4 inches to bold up the truck, does a combination suspention lift, included with a body lift make sense , and if so what would y'all recommend. I don't want to loose the handling, integrity, I'm in the mountains need some clearance and would like to improve the truck, not live with lock tote next to my tooth brush
What is your end goal? Tire size should be a consideration. In my opinion, which is just an opinion, torsion bar crank and the correct backspace wheels with 31x10.5 is a good daily driver combo. Add a body lift and probably fender trimming and you should be able to go with 33s. Bfg has the t/a ko2 in the 33x10.5x15 flavor. My biggest issue though is that nothing short of an axle swap will push the front axle forward, and therefore move the tire further away from the cab.
Personally, I'd stay far away from a "lift kit". I feel like for the money spent versus end result isn't worth the hassle. Most if not all of them put the cvs at a bad angle, the ones with the bars going back under the frame look like they kill ground clearance, and again, the axle isn't pushed forward at all.
Personally, I'd stay far away from a "lift kit". I feel like for the money spent versus end result isn't worth the hassle. Most if not all of them put the cvs at a bad angle, the ones with the bars going back under the frame look like they kill ground clearance, and again, the axle isn't pushed forward at all.
Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
Thanks Stuckey. I'm trying to make this a very Streetable ride. It's my only means of transportation for work, home, materials, etc...
Re: Torsion Bar Crank Cons?
I'm looking to Run 31/10.5/15 's. What would be my front and rear spacing, the correct fender flares, and do I add a slight body lift? I'm trying to get the ZR look with an improvement in ride, if not now, then down the line. I have a couple 74 landcruiser axels just staring at me for possible later project and bfg's are my tire
Here's how mine was for a while:
The front end got bunch of new parts like idler/ pitman arms, bushings, ball joints, stuff like that. But it's just a torsion bar crank, the wheels were 15x7 with 5 inch back spacing, and 31s. Fenders got trimmed slightly. Skim through my thread in the nos section for more details. I may have mis remembered the wheel width, but details are there if you want to look. I preferred different wheels over using spacers. I now have leaf springs and a Dana 44/ 14 bolt under it with 33s. But there's plenty of other examples of these trucks on 31s as well, so don't take mine as gospel. It did drive good though.
Edit: it still drives good with the axle swap. Had the cruise set at 80 yesterday
The front end got bunch of new parts like idler/ pitman arms, bushings, ball joints, stuff like that. But it's just a torsion bar crank, the wheels were 15x7 with 5 inch back spacing, and 31s. Fenders got trimmed slightly. Skim through my thread in the nos section for more details. I may have mis remembered the wheel width, but details are there if you want to look. I preferred different wheels over using spacers. I now have leaf springs and a Dana 44/ 14 bolt under it with 33s. But there's plenty of other examples of these trucks on 31s as well, so don't take mine as gospel. It did drive good though.
Edit: it still drives good with the axle swap. Had the cruise set at 80 yesterday