I replaced the junky old stock rear shocks with 'Monroe Max-Air' Air Shocks. At 20 psi, the truck remains at the height it was before. With 80 psi, it jumps up 2 inches. I haven't maxed it out at 120 psi, but I would assume that it adds 3 inches. But at the 80 psi setting, it rides much better than the old stock shocks plus it adds some height!
As you can see, I mounted the air filler thingy in the middle of my liscense plate! It was the most central location, and I didn't want to drill any holes in the bumper that could be seen. The installation was extremely easy, took only an hour to do the entire project. The ride of the truck has improved greatly! I would assume that at a lower psi it would be even smoother, but I like the added height.
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
Bobble, if you run separate air lines to each shock you will reduce rear end sway even farther and gain more stability. When 2 air shocks are connected the air from one shock can transfer more pressure to the opposite shock during cornering which results in uneven pressure and increased sway. I am not saying that you didn't hook them up right, but there is a better way to do it than most instructions will tell you. I have been contemplating getting some for my CC since they give you better control when hauling heavy items or towing plus they can be aired down for reduced bounce when off road on bumpy trails.
I've got a set on my Xtreme that I'll be moving to the CC here soon. Definately one of the best $75 mods I've ever done to it. Completely regained the weight capacity on the Xtreme after the super aggressive drop I have on there
Yea Steve, I know what you mean. The whole thing came as a package and it had a T connector for the air lines. So I just used what came with it. If I notice that I'm getting alot of sway, it's not very hard to go and install separate fillers for each shock. But as of so far, the ride quality has improved (sway/cornering/absorbing bumps) compared to the old shocks!
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
BobbleSmitty wrote:Haha!! I can push them down with my pinky finger and they stay down!
I once had a stock rear shock replaced under warranty at 10k miles and it lasted only 1k miles before failing again. It was a simple decision from here on "After Market Shocks" BTW, all 4 of my shocks at 11k miles were the same as you described them.
killian96ss wrote:Bobble, if you run separate air lines to each shock you will reduce rear end sway even farther and gain more stability.
I'd like to suggest adding a 1/4 turn valve to one of the lines. Open it to fill the shocks equally. Close the valve to separate them.
For offroad they need to be connected to allow articulation. For the road having them separated would be an advantage.
Something to consider.
Parts needed: 1@ 1/8" NPT ball valve, 2@ 1/8" compression (w/ferrule) x 1/8" NPT fittings.
Cut one of the lines and add the valve.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
I have the exact same airshocks and love them too. I run mine about 80 psi to have all around good ride. It gained lift too. I wish I could have a set in the front and pump that up a little too if It would work...
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
killian96ss wrote:Bobble, if you run separate air lines to each shock you will reduce rear end sway even farther and gain more stability.
I'd like to suggest adding a 1/4 turn valve to one of the lines. Open it to fill the shocks equally. Close the valve to separate them.
For offroad they need to be connected to allow articulation. For the road having them separated would be an advantage.
Something to consider.
Parts needed: 1@ 1/8" NPT ball valve, 2@ 1/8" compression (w/ferrule) x 1/8" NPT fittings.
Cut one of the lines and add the valve.
Silly question, but where would one pick these up at?
[size=75][url=http://www.zr2usa.com/members.php?id=974]"Maxine"[/url]- K&N FIPK, Gibson Cat-Back, Knaffle Shackles and Receivers, Optima Red Top, Knaffle Sliders, etc.
HenryJ wrote:...Cut one of the lines and add the valve.
Silly question, but where would one pick these up at?
Not silly at all. My TrueValue hardware store has everything. Home Depot has it as well.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
ace wrote:... I wish I could have a set in the front and pump that up a little too if It would work...
To bring this back up.
If I remember right the front and rear shocks are the same in length (compressed and extended), and the only external difference was the mounting bracket on the upper bushing on the rear shocks. Granted the internal valving would probably be different, but I imagine it would only be slightly stiffer, which I could live with.
So the question becomes, could you put these in the front if you cut the upper bracket off and put a sleeve in?
It looks like the bag portion would clear the CV's, but is the upper portion to large to clear the control arm.
The reason I would like to do this isn't for lift, more lift than you really want in the long run can be had with the t-bar adjusters. What would be nice about them would be the fact that the air spring in them would add a VERY progressive spring rate to the front when the shocks were plumbed separate, which would be nice for cornering, and when linked, the side to side effect would be nice to have when off road.
ace wrote:... I wish I could have a set in the front and pump that up a little too if It would work...
To bring this back up.
If I remember right the front and rear shocks are the same in length (compressed and extended), and the only external difference was the mounting bracket on the upper bushing on the rear shocks. Granted the internal valving would probably be different, but I imagine it would only be slightly stiffer, which I could live with.
So the question becomes, could you put these in the front if you cut the upper bracket off and put a sleeve in?
It looks like the bag portion would clear the CV's, but is the upper portion to large to clear the control arm.
The reason I would like to do this isn't for lift, more lift than you really want in the long run can be had with the t-bar adjusters. What would be nice about them would be the fact that the air spring in them would add a VERY progressive spring rate to the front when the shocks were plumbed separate, which would be nice for cornering, and when linked, the side to side effect would be nice to have when off road.
Just a thought.
Good question. Hopefully someone else chimes in.
On a side note I'm havin a bear of a time finding a 1/8 ball valve.
Gonna be installing these air shocks either today or sometime on Saturday.
[size=75][url=http://www.zr2usa.com/members.php?id=974]"Maxine"[/url]- K&N FIPK, Gibson Cat-Back, Knaffle Shackles and Receivers, Optima Red Top, Knaffle Sliders, etc.
Griff wrote:...I'm havin a bear of a time finding a 1/8 ball valve.
Be flexible / adaptable. You can use a 1/4" NPT ball valve and either use reducing bushings (1/4" NPT male x 1/8" NPT female) , or use 1/4" NPT male x 1/8" compression fittings.
These stainless steel valves are common around here, but they may not be available in sizes under 1/4" NPT-
These are not going to be something you will find in the hardware section of your local "mart"-mart. A building center that carries plumbing supplies, or a good hardware store would be the best place to look.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
Plus there is a slight difference in the bushing, but it seems to be in the width of the metal hoop (1/16") although I am not sure about the actuall bushing I.D. size
I have been contemplating getting some for my CC since they give you better control when hauling heavy items or towing plus they can be aired down for reduced bounce when off road on bumpy trails. 
It was a simple decision from here on 
"After Market Shocks" 
BTW, all 4 of my shocks at 11k miles were the same as you described them. 
