The Marvelous Mystery Lift

Fitting oversize tires, raising and lowering, suspension modifications...

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Postby ludwis » Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:30 pm

I just got my flares today from Skidz. I'm one step closer to having all the parts.

I have to say that the flares look awsome! I can't wait to put them on. Justin included the screws, templates, and trim in the box with them. I'm curious if the trim Justin included is the same that HenryJ used. I couldn't find the post that had a link to the trim dealer. Also, on the templates the front cut is labeled "Front Cut Front Fender" I think it should be "Rear Cut Front Fender" based on the pictures from

http://www.s-10crewcab.net/og1/modinfo/skidz/skidz.html
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Postby HenryJ » Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:36 pm

ludwis wrote:...on the templates the front cut is labeled "Front Cut Front Fender" I think it should be "Rear Cut Front Fender" based on the pictures from

http://www.s-10crewcab.net/og1/modinfo/skidz/skidz.html
You got the right idea. :roll: ...just can't find good help these days.

Here is the trim thread- Fender flare edge trim
This thread includes a picture of the trim and the screws that you need- Fender Flare trim / edging and self tapping screws The screws that Justin sent with mine were pretty large compared to these.

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Postby bubaloo1983 » Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:03 pm

It is the same trim as henry had :) just for the record lol
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Postby HenryJ » Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:44 pm

bubaloo1983 wrote:It is the same trim ...
:thumb:

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Postby HenryJ » Fri Dec 16, 2005 12:34 pm

UPDATE:
Today I replaced my 2" rear spacers with 3". The rear flares look wider than the front.
After a little looking and reports of Walt's install I decided to try the wider rear.
The look is better, and closely matches the front appearance now. I was not able to stuff the rear tire quite far enough to check clearances yet, but it does look like the 33x9.50's will just barely miss the fender lip.

From underneath the brake shield is even with the tire sidewall, so although exposed more it is not directly vulnerable.

I would suggest that at this point the 3" spacers for the rear look to be a better choice for using stock rearspaced wheels.

For those using aftermarket wheels the rearspacing will need to end up at 3".

Confusing? Well to run the 33x9.50 tires using a 7" wide wheel the front needs to have 4.75" of rear spacing. If you are buying aftermarket wheels then this would be the best choice. The rear needs to be 3" of rear spacing, so if you have the 4.75" rear spaced wheels , add 1.75" spacers to them. The closest choice you have from Complete value would be the 2" spacers. Using the 1.25" rear spacers will get the track width matched front to rear, but the extra inch of width on the rear does make things look better.

Mine is now 1.4" wider track width on the rear.
I'll know more about how well this works later. I am going to modify the above information to reflect this change of mind. At this point I think most will be happier with the thicker spacers on the rear.

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Postby ludwis » Fri Dec 16, 2005 4:07 pm

What spacers are you running in the front? I have 1.5" in the rear now with the stock flares. I was planning on going 3" in the rear like yours when I put on SKIDs cutout flares (when the weather gets warmer) then I was planning on moving 1.5" spacers that were on the rear to the front.
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Postby HenryJ » Fri Dec 16, 2005 4:10 pm

I am running 1.25" spacers on the front. You should have room to use the 1.5" spacers on the front.

I doubt that .25" difference will be very noticeable.

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Postby Blaze One » Fri Dec 16, 2005 4:12 pm

so the people that want to use a 33x10.5 tire should use a 2" spacer in the rear ? and 1.25" in the front , with stock wheels that is .
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Postby HenryJ » Fri Dec 16, 2005 4:31 pm

Can't say for sure what will be the "right" combination for those who want to try the wider tires.

That does sound reasonable though.

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Postby Walt » Tue Dec 27, 2005 1:43 pm

I know this thread has gotten long, but I had to post one mo time :P

Brule, I'm still wondering about 33x10.5x15's or 32x11.5x15's.

I'll be using 15x8 wheels with 4" of back spacing
(Cragar 342's).

I don't care about rubbing the frame, which shouldn't be too bad anyway because of my back spacing, but I don't want to rub the fenders :)

I will be trimming my front valance too, to get a bit more clearance that way.

Here are the specs on the tires:

BFG 33x10.5x15
Overall Diameter - 32.7"
Section Width - 10.6"

BFG 32x11.5x15
Overall Diameter - 31.7"
Section Width - 11.4"


Since you've been running your combo a while and know for sure if your will rub or not, what do you think?
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Postby Blaze One » Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:41 pm

Thank you asking the exact same question i was going to ask , I am currently starting the process of gather all the items needed for this lift . Next big purchase is the tires also most important ..... I will just sit over here and wait patiently :D
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Postby HenryJ » Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:12 pm

wamason wrote:.I'm still wondering about 33x10.5x15's or 32x11.5x15's...Using 15x8 wheels with 4" of back spacing
...specs on the tires:

BFG 33x10.5x15
Overall Diameter - 32.7"
Section Width - 10.6"

BFG 32x11.5x15
Overall Diameter - 31.7"
Section Width - 11.4"
Someone will have to try it.

I have 3/4" clearance. That is with 4 3/4" rear spacing on the stock 7" wheels. With only 4" of rear spacing you will have already used up the available space. Now add a wider wheel and wider tire.
The tire width will ad 1/2" the wider wheel won't add a full inch, but probably half at least. That is a full inch beyond what should rub.

I would say that the 33x10.5's with those wheels will rub. 3/4" more rearspacing and it may be close.
Now as for the 32's. I can't say for sure again. You are an inch shorter, but almost an inch wider. They might even be worse?

Both of these would be against my better judgement. The 33x9.5's are working really well, but as I have said before, they may be pushing things. The power steering may not be able to handle the added stress of a wider tire, not to mention the other suspension components.

If I were going to try a wider tire, I would give the 33x10.5's a shot.
I don't think we will know for sure until someone trys them. Any "guinea pigs" ready?

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Postby F9K9 » Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:18 pm

HenryJ wrote:.............................................. Any "guinea pigs" ready?


Maybe when I get my CPR down pat :wink:
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Postby Blaze One » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:08 pm

It would be great if a member of this forum was a employee of a tire shop or new a person that could test fit some used tires in various sizes . Between all the truck forums on the net , he could sell his "findings " !! , would save people money when they go and buy tires , hoping that they wont rub .
I can't afford to be the guinea pig this time .
But I think i will be trying the 33x10.5 option on stock rims . But i will also be leaving the tire purchase until last , so that i can have all the lifts , and spacers installed , then measure to see how much clearance i have with my current tires .
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Postby HenryJ » Wed Dec 28, 2005 7:00 am

The best thing to do is to buy in a manner that you can return or exchange easily, when trying something unknown.
Being the "guinea pig" can be costly. There are expenses incurred that can not be recovered, sometimes. Othertimes you calculate, research, hope for the best and things work out just fine.

I am really hesitant to say the 33x10.5's will work. They are going to rub the frame. This will reduce the turn radius when you are forced to build up the stops.

With the right rearspacing they may clear the fenderwell. Those who do not require full articulation, may get away with less rearspacing.

Using the stock wheels will help, but then you will need to run lower pressures for even tire wear. That may be rough on the mileage and steering components.
I am not saying this won't work. I just want you to go in "eyes wide open" :mg:

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Postby Blaze One » Wed Dec 28, 2005 4:18 pm

hmmm... I thought you could run a 10.5" wide tire on the stock rims with out having to air them down ?, so you wont get uneven wear .
All of these concerns are making me wonder why I am even trying to fit a 10.5" tire , I should just listen to HJ and go with what is known to work , the 9.5 " tire . I know i wont miss the 1" , but would have liked to have a different choice when looking for tires . Decisions , Decisions .....
Last edited by Blaze One on Wed Dec 28, 2005 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby F9K9 » Wed Dec 28, 2005 4:40 pm

Blaze One wrote:hmmm... I thought you could run a 10.5" wide tire on the stock rims with out having to air them down ?, so you wont get uneven wear .
All of these concerns are making me wonder why I am even trying to fit a 10.5" tire , I should just listen to HJ and go with what is known to work , the 9.5 " tire . I know i wont miss the 1" , but would have liked to have a different choice when looking for tires . Decisions , Decisions .....


It does get a little hairy :lol:

Sounds like wamason is going another route than HJ took. :lol:

Grab some popcorn, sit back, chill, and see what Walt thinks of his tire/wheel/spacer combination :D
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Postby HenryJ » Wed Dec 28, 2005 5:38 pm

Blaze One wrote:hmmm... I thought you could run a 10.5" wide tire on the stock rims with out having to air them down ?...
You can. I ran 31x10.5 tires on the stock rims. You won't get away with 40 lbs , and have them wear evenly across the tread though. The taller 33 inch tires may be a little more forgiving, but probably won't be able to run 40 lbs in them either.

I do like running a wider tire on a narrower wheel since you can really air down and hold the bead. For offroad it is really good.

For highway mileage the narrower tire is better. You can run a higher pressure and have less rolling resistance. I got 21.8 mpg on my trip "over the hills...". It really suprised me with everything that I have done and the winter weather.

Balance what you want to do with the tires that you want. If mileage is not at the top of your list and offroad performance is the wider tire may be a better choice? Wider does look better, but at what cost? Maybe none?

Still waiting on someone to try them :mg:

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Postby Walt » Thu Dec 29, 2005 6:42 am

I'm still undecided. My 31's will remain on my truck for a while. So I probably won't be experimenting any time soon... If they made a 32x10.5x15, that would probably be a good choice :)

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Postby Blaze One » Thu Dec 29, 2005 11:19 am

or if a company made more tire choices in the 33x9.5" size that would be great too .
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Postby badandy2003cc4x4 » Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:39 am

hj how is the power with the taller tires for towing such as a boat?
walt maybe super swampers could suply your tire I know they make some odd sizes.
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Postby HenryJ » Fri Dec 30, 2005 8:39 am

badandy2003cc4x4 wrote:...how is the power with the taller tires for towing such as a boat?
I can't say for sure as I am not into winter boating. The power does still seem really good. I only pull occasionally, so a little loss is not a big deal, but I want to say that the difference will be minimal from what I feel right now.
The mileage improvement on the highway is really shocking. City mileage has remained about the same, but on the highway I picked up almost 2 mpg :shock:
I had always felt that the 3.73's and 29" tires were the best for power and mileage. I am now thinking that the 3.73's with 33" tires combination is pretty sweet. Those with 3.42's and 30" tires will have the same ratio as I am running now. I can see why some of those with that combination have reported higher mileage figures. This must be the right combination for highway mileage.

For my terrain this works. I don't need the super low crawl ratios since most of my offroading is higher speed desert.

After trying it I have no interest in going to a lower gear ratio. I think it will pull all that I need to. I do have quite a few mods that help out with the performance. Those may be part of why it still seems to have enough power.

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Postby kermit » Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:42 pm

HJ, is your truck level, front to rear? Or is the rear a little higher because of the extra leaf springs?

I'd like to keep my truck as level as possible when everything is said and done, and still fit the larger tires under it.

If your rear end is much higher, are the extra leafs necessary for tire clearance purposes?

thanks
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Postby HenryJ » Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:20 pm

kermit wrote:...is your truck level, front to rear?
No. The rear is slightly higher.
Not as much rake as the ZR2 trucks have, but not quite level.
I do pack quite a little extra weight most of the time. My tool box is full, I have the spare tire rack and an extra 228 lbs. of fuel plus the tanks. I also tow with my truck, so the increase in spring capacity was a must.

Could you get by with no rear springs? If you don't tow, perhaps. Do you have to have the springs or shackles to fit the tires? No. It may start to look a little low in the back end after time though and lowering the front may not be the best way of dealing with that.

The nice thing about the Mystery Lift is that it can be taylored to your needs and is component based. You can install the pieces until you are happy and stop. If later you change your mind, add the part you need.

I have done just that. I just made the switch to 3" instead of 2" rear spacers.

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Postby kermit » Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:26 pm

my tbars are already cranked (to the max, i believe, not positive though) and the truck is about level, i was wondering if the leafs would make that much of a difference?

just curious if it is worth the money
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Postby HenryJ » Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:38 pm

kermit wrote:my tbars are already cranked (to the max, i believe, not positive though) and the truck is about level, i was wondering if the leafs would make that much of a difference?

just curious if it is worth the money
The Boise SpringWorks kit raised the back of mine 1.5" empty. I haven't taken and good measurements while loaded , lately, but it still sits slightly higher in the back. Pulling a trailer it sits level.

Would I spend $150 to $175 for the springs again? Yes.
Although there may be cheaper ways to raise the back end, I am a firm believer that multiple leaves are the best way to go. They offer the best balance of ride , payload and articulation and all that is hard to match. This thing rides like stock, smooth and comfortable. Doesn't bottom out when towing or jumping ditches. No wheel hop in the washboards. It just feels right whether on the highway or in the bottom of Bear creek.

Look at it as an investment, and honestly judge what you do with your truck. Helpers, shackles, and yes even the add-a-leafs or junk yard springs are all options.

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Postby kermit » Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:20 pm

with all of the advantages, i guess 1.5" isn't that big of a difference...
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Postby HenryJ » Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:44 pm

Cutting the wheel openings comes first. You just have to have them bigger to clear bigger tires. It makes all the difference in the world. Everything else can be added as needed.

The whole idea behind this is to have a tried and tested plan.
This avoids duplication and replacement.
I have made mistakes and replaced parts. This is my attempt to steer everyone straight to the goal with out the side trips that I have taken.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby kermit » Sat Jan 21, 2006 4:01 pm

HenryJ wrote:I have made mistakes and replaced parts. This is my attempt to steer everyone straight to the goal with out the side trips that I have taken.
'preciate it :D
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Postby Walt » Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:57 pm

Alright folks! Here it is! Info on whether 32x11.5x15's will rub or not :D I friend of mine who runs the local body shop just took some 32" BFG AT KO's off his old Tahoe, so I went over and tried them on :) The good news is that at moderate to no flex, they don't rub at all. With hard flexing, such as an articulation ramp, they will rub some, but it's not horrible. I didn't get a chance to measure anything as we were in a bit of a hurry to beat the inclement weather, but things looked fairly good. I think I'll try this size the next time I get tires :D
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Postby Blaze One » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:23 pm

Wamason , which wheel spacers are you using for front and rear ?
Also , where abouts did they rub ? Fender ? sway bar etc ?
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Postby Walt » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:54 am

I'm running 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing and no spacers. I don't have any frame rub...just the inside of the fender :)

I didn't try anything on the rears, since I know they'll fit without any problems.
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Postby GNandGS » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:32 am

If test fitting with used tires you might need to account for the tire wear.(?)
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Postby Walt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:50 am

Yea, still had enough clearance to compensate :)
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Postby Blaze One » Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:50 pm

does anyone know what spacers would be needed to equal the spacing used on Wamasons setup ( 15x8 rims with 4" bs ) ? when using a stock zr2 size rim ?


That is simple addition. Stock =6" Walt has 4" the difference is 2"-HJ
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Postby Walt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:35 pm

What HJ said :D I ran 2" spacers with my stock wheels before I got my new wheels.
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Postby ludwis » Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:40 am

Quick question, will the 33"x9.5" tires clear with the SKIDs flares but without the body lift? If it makes a difference the truck is a street queen and does not go off road. Just trying to figure out the order in which I get/install the parts.
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Postby HenryJ » Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:46 am

ludwis wrote:...will the 33"x9.5" tires clear with the SKIDs flares but without the body lift?
I didn't try, but really don't think so. Those are really big tires. I think this set up is the lowest you can go and the maximum tire size. I think one person has tried 31x 10.5's without the body lift and had rubbing problems. I am sure that would mean the 33x9.50's would rub as much or even worse.

There were a couple interested in adding 10.5's , It will be interesting to see how that goes.

I would put the 2" BL at the top of the list.

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Postby ludwis » Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:41 pm

We are one step closer, just finished installing the 3" rear spacers and moving the 1.5" spacers to the front.

I have front & rear bilstein shocks are on order and the skidz flares are in the garage.

Still need to order the body lift, boise spring kit, and tires.
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Postby HenryJ » Sun Feb 19, 2006 4:30 pm

ludwis wrote:We are one step closer...
Woo Hoo!
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Postby F9K9 » Sun Feb 19, 2006 4:58 pm

I'm not having any luck finding the BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO 33x9.50-15 tires at 4wheelparts or Summit. 4wheelparts has a sale going on too. I hope I am overlooking something.
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Postby ludwis » Sun Feb 19, 2006 5:21 pm

f9k9 wrote:I'm not having any luck finding the BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO 33x9.50-15 tires at 4wheelparts or Summit. 4wheelparts has a sale going on too. I hope I am overlooking something.


Follow HJ's link from page 1

I looked at them earlier today at summit, they are still there.
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Postby F9K9 » Sun Feb 19, 2006 5:30 pm

I found it that way but, not through the regular online store. Thanks!
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Postby Walt » Sun Feb 19, 2006 8:45 pm

f9k9 wrote:I found it that way but, not through the regular online store. Thanks!


Hate to say it, but have you tried Wally World? :D
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Postby HenryJ » Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:54 pm

Or Sears. They deal BFGoodrich.

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Postby HenryJ » Fri Apr 28, 2006 4:32 pm

Sounds like the flares for this are going to be a limited quantity. That is unpleasant news.
Those who are considering this may want to bump flares to the top of your list, or consider running the cuts without.
Opening up the wheel wells is the most important thing you can do if you want to run larger tires.
No way I would ever want to go back to running the stock wheel wells and cringing at the sound of rubbing.

I was about a year ago when I started down this path. I am very pleased with all aspects of the Marvelous Mystery Lift. Mileage has been as good or even better. Performance and ride are better than stock. I have the ground clearance without the higher center of gravity other lifts create. Win, win, win in my book.
It really is fun parking next to a stock S-series 4x4 or ZR2. That is when you can see just how much difference there really is.
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Postby HenryJ » Fri Apr 28, 2006 5:45 pm

If you are going to do without flares. I think some bedliner would make the cut fenders look good. You would have to cover the stock flare holes though.
I think it could be done. That is why I was not as worried about the lack of replacement flares. If they are gone, and mine have been destroyed, I'll go flareless and lined :mg:
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Postby F9K9 » Mon May 08, 2006 5:31 pm

Well, I guess I'll have some spacer and the 4.75" back space issue answers here shortly. I just clicked "check out" to the tune of $766.58 for five 33/9.5x15 BFGs and a US Steel Daytona wheel to use in the tire rotation exercises. Sometimes I really wonder how thrilled I am to have stumbled over this site Image
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Postby Walt » Tue May 09, 2006 5:52 am

So you went with the 9.5"s after all.... shucks :( I was hoping someone else would be the test subject for the 33x10.5's :D
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Postby Steve2003 » Tue May 09, 2006 6:09 am

wamason wrote:So you went with the 9.5"s after all.... shucks :( I was hoping someone else would be the test subject for the 33x10.5's :D


Now I know why f9 wanted the 3 inch adapters!
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Postby ludwis » Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:55 am

This is what she looked like stock
Image

This is with the 2" body lift, flares, and new tires (33x9.5x15)
Image
Image
Image

The body lift took me the entire day (9 am to 9pm). I like to take my time but I think I was a bit slower than most. That oil pan bolt/nut was a pain in the butt. I must have spent 20 min on it with a little wrench making 1/4 turns all the way...

The flares were pretty easy to do as well, the main issue I have (that others have also stated previously) is that the flares don't cover as much as the stock ZR5 flares did. I have a few spots were the old flares had rubbed all the way down to the primer.

Overall I would definitly do it again, the truck actually looks like a truck now!

Thanks HenryJ & and many others, I don't think I would have ever made it this far with out you all.
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Postby Walt » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:09 am

Man that looks awesome! I can't wait to get a set of 33's. :)
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Postby HenryJ » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:14 am

That looks awesome! :thumb:

What a monster!

Any plans to follow Topsgt's lead and raise the sidebars?

What size tires did you go with?

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Postby Walt » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:20 am

ludwis wrote:This is with the 2" body lift, flares, and new tires (33x9.5x15)


Looks like he followed in your footsteps, Brule. :)
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Postby HenryJ » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:27 am

Walt wrote:
ludwis wrote:This is with the 2" body lift, flares, and new tires (33x9.5x15)
Looks like he followed in your footsteps...
:oops: I missed that :roll: too busy drooling over the pictures I guess :drool:
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Postby Walt » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:34 am

I did at first too, but after I saw how big the tires in the pics looked, I read over the post again and found it. Awesome. :)
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Postby F9K9 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:45 am

Looks "sick" :thumb:

What do you mean slower than most? Flares and BL in 12 hours is some sort of record :D I bet I have 80 hours in the flares alone with me taking them back off and redoing them. It was my first time handling a sawzall though. Really looks good. :D
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Postby ludwis » Sat Nov 25, 2006 4:33 pm

f9k9 wrote:Looks "sick" :thumb:

What do you mean slower than most? Flares and BL in 12 hours is some sort of record :D


The body lift was 12 hours on friday, the flares were another 6 or so on saturday. Yea, I hear ya on never being quite satisfied with them. I had the dremel out for a while.

I don't think I'm going to move the nerf bars up. They seem to serve there purpose where they are. Before the BL they were just about useless, everyone would always bang there foot on the cab when trying to use them. In there current position they actually help you get in.

Thanks to whom ever updated the avatar, I just noticed :D

The avatar fairy has been busy-HJ :angel:
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Postby F9K9 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:15 pm

12 hrs on the BL is respectable. Please tell me that you didn't do the flares in 6 hrs solo :pray:

The end result is totally awesome :cheers:
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Postby ludwis » Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:55 pm

f9k9 wrote:Please tell me that you didn't do the flares in 6 hrs solo :pray:


Yea, the flares weren't as bad as the body lift and I didn't spend as much time on them as I would have liked to. They definitly could use alot more trimming to get a closer fit.

You can't really tell from the photo's but if you look close there are a few spots with 1/16" to 1/8" gaps. A heat gun would have been handy too.

I think I will need to get the fenders repainted due to the rubbing issues from the stock flares, at the very least they will need to be touched up.
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Postby F9K9 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:24 pm

ludwis wrote:.............I think I will need to get the fenders repainted due to the rubbing issues from the stock flares, at the very least they will need to be touched up.


Hold that thought for a month or two and then decide if. resources should be spent there. It was a crisis for me when I discovered my stock flare damage :lol: The crisis will diminish in time, I promise. :wink:
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Postby BADs Crew » Sun Nov 26, 2006 3:50 am

Looks great :thumb: If you need touch up paint try this place. The touch up paint I received from them was an exact color match.
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Postby WVHogRider » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:07 am

8) Looks great Ludwis...makes me think I should go ahead and do mine since the weather is nice right now...
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Postby kermit » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:16 pm

NICE!

I'm almost there! My body lift was finished a while back, and today my dad and I installed the flares. All I'm waiting on now are wheels to mount some tires on! ... looks kinda funny with the 30x9.5s on the N90s with no spacers... hopefully the wheels will arrive soon!
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Postby F9K9 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:49 pm

Ok, I may have gone a couple mods too far after the "Mystery Lift" :shock: I am now rubbing the front inner fender. It is at the center of the front inner fender that is located flush against the firewall. This is happening on almost level ground and midway through the tires movement. It started after the Yakima rack installation. My shovel and Hi-Lift jack were already there and there was no rub. The addition of the rack and spare wasn't causing rub or I was mistaking the sound I heard to be Jigg's front gap guards. The lights apparently were "the straw that broke the camels back". I have since slid the basket back towards the rear and that didn't remedy the rubbing. I mounted the spare back on the Baja carrier and it made a difference but, still rubbing. My TB crank was over 2 yrs ago and should have settled by now.

Brule, if the TBs have settled or grown weak then hasn't the axle shaft angle decreased in doing so? Am I correct in thinking that I can crank them higher to recover the clearance I had before the weight was added and still not increase it past where it sat before the basket?
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Postby HenryJ » Thu Dec 21, 2006 3:30 pm

f9k9 wrote:... I am now rubbing the front inner fender. It is at the center of the front inner fender that is located flush against the firewall.
Something like this?

Image
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Postby F9K9 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 3:41 pm

Was that with your winch mounted? It is just like that!

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Postby HenryJ » Thu Dec 21, 2006 4:17 pm

Yes that is with winch mounted and swaybar disconnected.

Not much we are going to be able to do here. I swapped out that bolt for one with a rounded head and a recessed torx. That keeps the bolt from grabbing the tire.

You are right that raising the torsion bar adjustment may help some. This will not stop it though since articulating will push it to do the same thing. If you need a little more and have the room you can raise the adjusters a little more. Make sure you do not top out the adjusters and bind them in the crossmember.

One thing to watch for is adding weight to the front. Yours is probably heavier than mine , or at least close to the same with that brush guard and lights.

We need to be cognizant of the changes we make. Moving weight forward as you did with the spare tire and jack, as well as adding weight like the rack and jack.
My truck has quite a bit of added weight. Most of it I have tried to maintain close to or behind the rear axle. One fuel tank is 12" forward of the axle. The other is about the same behind. The spare and rack are added at or behind the rear bumper and the winch is added in front of the front bumper. It really is a tough balancing act.

Mine doesn't rub running around town no matter what I do. I do have to push it a little with the sway bar disconnected to get the rub. Mine may be adjusted a little higher than yours?

Just make sure you have room in the crossmember so you don't bind the "pork chop". Paul actually added the 2" adjusters after adding the winch to the front of his truck. All the weight was just too much and he need to raise it more than the stock indexers would allow. Soon after he went SFA, so I don't know if that is a real option? Sure it would be if you really needed to raise that much. He may not have cranked them too. Just using them for a little more adjustment.

I wonder if urethane a-arm bushings might help reduce the deflection? Those might be a good addition.
I suppose loosening all the cab mounts and shifting the body back as far as possible and then retightening might be a good idea too.

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Postby F9K9 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:54 pm

All excellent food for thought. I have definitely lost clearance due to the weight. I am expecting the Yakima load cross bars in tomorrow and the rack will have to come off for their installation. Will see how it runs without the rack and all that is mounted on it.

If, I recall correctly I have one TB adjuster pretty close to running out of threads but, it was backed off by my first dealership. Have an alignment scheduled Tues morning so, we'll just have to see.

Out of curiosity, how would you go about sliding the cab rearwards once the mounting bolts were loosened?
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Inner Fender Rubbing

Postby F9K9 » Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:55 pm

f9k9 wrote:.............Out of curiosity, how would you go about sliding the cab rearwards once the mounting bolts were loosened?


Did you miss this post, thinking about the easiest way to do it of just ignoring your seniors at Christmas time? :wink:
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Postby HenryJ » Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:00 pm

Missed it.

I don't know what would work the best. Maybe a pry bar in the right place? I can't say for sure there would be anything to gain. It was just an idea.

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Postby F9K9 » Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:14 pm

HenryJ wrote:Missed it.

I don't know what would work the best. Maybe a pry bar in the right place? I can't say for sure there would be anything to gain. It was just an idea.


I can't prove it but, I KNOW I read about it in an "older" TSB concerning this as a possible remedy for a rubbing issue in ZR2s with their stock tire size. It should be simple enough to do. Maybe a couple bottle jacks with wood blocks to ease it up after the bolts are loosened. Open rear doors, fold rear seat forward. tow strap through the cab to a com-a-long(SP?) has come to mind.
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Re: Inner Fender Rubbing

Postby BADs Crew » Sat Dec 23, 2006 1:39 am

f9k9 wrote:
f9k9 wrote:.............Out of curiosity, how would you go about sliding the cab rearwards once the mounting bolts were loosened?


Now this is just a thought from watching alot of NASCAR. They use a roller between the tire and fender when there is a tire rub problem Its nothing more than a steel piece of pipe placed between the two and then pull the car forward. What if you wedged something in there and used the power of the Crew to push the inner fender back
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Postby F9K9 » Sat Dec 23, 2006 2:47 am

That would probably work too. You just have to remember that it is against the firewall now. :!:
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Postby F9K9 » Sat Dec 23, 2006 10:24 am

Okay, I have made significant progress today. My basket "towers" and cross bars came in and I installed them. This allowed me to shift the basket back towards the rear 8-10". I am completely off the rear on the inner fender now on an incline turn. I am still rubbing the extra little gap guard that Jigg includes with his to keep the mud out of the rear of the regular ones. I'd gain more if I move all my recovery junk, tools and first aid crash kit to the bed.

I think the reason that I didn't rub on my last trail ride was that I also had a large loaded cooler in the bed that day!

ImageImage

I think that if, I can get 1/4" out of the tb crank/alignment and bump the cab back 1/4" I'll have this conquered :!: The minor rub on the gap guards cab be solved by a minor build up of the steering stops. I may able to even get that spare back on top :wink:
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