I just ordered a Detroit!!! :)

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Mon Sep 22, 2003 5:00 pm

I just ordered a Detroit C Locker. Can't wait to try that bad boy out!

Be my first install, so I am looking forward to the experience. Got all the goodies I hope, had to call them twice to add stuff. Getting it from Randy's Ring & Pinion. They seem to have the best prices and say it will be here on Wednesday. I've also ordered new carrier bearings, shims, C clips, and Ring bolts.

Also found this info doing alot of my research, some good info: http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/carriers ... ndmore.htm

From hearing people, I'm lucky I havn't busted up my case yet with all the 4x4'n I've done. Check out what it says about our locker/posi.

I'm replacing it, cause I was inside cause I gotta replace the pinion seal because of leakage, and I was checking out the stock locker/posi, and was very disapointed, so I need something better. I think it's fried anyhow.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Mon Sep 22, 2003 6:22 pm

hey thats a good info page. and its about time you put a real locker in the rear

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Mon Sep 22, 2003 7:09 pm

Yea, I can't wait to try it out, but it may be kinda scary on my favorite off-camber trail here. I'll be just a slide'n!

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Sep 27, 2003 6:52 pm

I got some nasty things to say about Randy's Ring & Pinion, but I'll get into that later.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 2:08 pm

I'll be very curious to hear how it works (and the cost?) and how easy the install went. I'll be looking for something like this for the Blazer although I still need to find a motor for it.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 3:14 pm

It's going good so far, fairly simple job. But then I got alot of good tools, and I have made one or 2 for the job also, home-made. I guess I was kinda upset on Saturday. More the fault of the salesman than anything else. They send me the incorrect bearings, but the correct outer race. And the ring bolts stripped out at 100 ft/lbs, so I had to put the stock ones back in. Hopefully they will refund me for those. Alot of other things going on also, so am not done yet. I did get some correct carrier bearings today at the parts store, and will finish soon. And a new rebuilt CV shaft ($80) should be in tomorrow. They are lifetime warrenty, so don't have to ever pay for that one again.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 3:50 pm

Yeah, I'm looking for options for the 7.5 rear in my Blazer. I found out it's got a G80 locker in it too. Kinda surprised me. I thought they were fairly new and didn't expect an '87 S-10 to have one. One things for sure though, it ain't going to survive a 300hp LT1, at least not for long anyway. I'll probably swap it out for a newer 7.62 (or an 8.5 if I can find one) with something for a locker, other than the G80.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 4:06 pm

If you have a posi, then the Detroit C locker is your only choice unless you get an open carrier, which is extra money you can get the Detroit with and it's stronger. Good thing it's the locker I want anyhow! I think Hobbie has one, but I'm not sure what he has in there. The one I would really like is the Detroit E locker. It's posi/locker both, but only make it for the dana 44/60 I think.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 4:40 pm

GaryH wrote:Yeah, I'm looking for options for the 7.5 rear in my Blazer. I found out it's got a G80 locker in it too. Kinda surprised me. I thought they were fairly new and didn't expect an '87 S-10 to have one. One things for sure though, it ain't going to survive a 300hp LT1, at least not for long anyway. I'll probably swap it out for a newer 7.62 (or an 8.5 if I can find one) with something for a locker, other than the G80.

ya the g-80 i think has been around since 78

also, 300hp isnt too much for that 7.5 esp if you have the 31 spline axels. i have seen plenty of cameros at the strip running them with spools in them.....

but if i was going to go thru the trouble of doing a swap, i wouldnt waist time on a 10bolt, you can pick up an old 9" with 31 spline and posi already in it out of lots of cars and trucks

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 5:00 pm

From what I've seen so far, those 7.5's will take a lot of abuse, on the street anyway. There's a lot of guys on S10V8.com running them and they say they are hard to break without slicks and serious abuse. I plan to take this off road as well though. I've thought about the 9 inch but they are a lot of bucks to set up right and I'm trying to keep the cost down as much as I can. Then there's that thing about sticking those F*rd parts in my Chevy!

I'm only going to put 31's on it so a decent 7.62 from a newer S10 should do good. Of course, if I break it, I still have my trusty CrewCab.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 03, 2003 5:53 pm

I finished my truck this morning. The test drive went excellent. The Detroit is much smoother that I thought it would be from hearing people. You do know it's there though. It does chirp easy on sharp bends if you gas it a bit. But I hear absolutely no clicking or clacking, and no excessive backlash. Maybe cause the C locker is improved over the older one. I think it will hairy in the snow, I'll see. I did allot. I've replaced the Driver side CV shaft and front diff shaft seal, Rear pinion shaft seal replacement, Locker install, new rear brake pads. Also took it to Cosco to get my 2 flats fixed, stems, and balanced (no charge). Seems I had corrosion on my rim beads. They said it's form moisture in the tire. Probably cause I air down and up so much. I did put a water filter on my compressor that I fill my tanks with a couple months ago, hopefully that will work. Also, the tire balanced fixed my vibration problem that I thought was my rear drive shaft. So, I am wanting to try it soon! Yehaaaw!

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 03, 2003 5:59 pm

And hey, I don't know if anyone has ever checked, but my rear pinion seal has a tripple oil seal. The dealer thought someone modified it. They had 2 people trying to figure it out. I told them I had the truck from day one. They found out that they used 2 different seal styles that year, tripple seal and single seal. I have modified mine for the single seal, because to get the whole tripple seal, you gotta purchase a new pinion yoke at $87! But no biggy, just rip the outer seal off the yoke, and the yoke shaft will fit the single seal, problem fixed. I guess the tripple did no good anyhow if it leaked at 44k miles! Arrrggghhh

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 03, 2003 7:51 pm

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 03, 2003 8:58 pm

Ha, and I plan to put my Eaton in my 86 Camaro. Just need to find some 28 spline shafts now! Anybody have some laying around?

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:56 am

After seeing that case I can understand how these thing break so easy. Not much there! Oh and I like the "Plug"! Got a bunch of those in my garage too.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 8:49 am

It's not really that bad, but I wonder what would break first. I wonder how strong our shafts are. Maybe I can get some Yukon axles, then I can use my stock 28 splines in the Camaro. haha.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 9:25 am

What all is required in setting the rear ring and pinion up? If I were to install 3.73's and either the eaton, or lockright type setup, how much adjusting and such is involved?

I've had people tell me that it's something a pro should do, and others that tell me it's just a bolt turning thing. I can do both but would like to know what I'm getting into.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 10:31 am

This stuff and alot of patience if it's your first time:

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a2b · Post by **a2b** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 1:20 pm

adrenalnjunky wrote:What all is required in setting the rear ring and pinion up? If I were to install 3.73's and either the eaton, or lockright type setup, how much adjusting and such is involved?

I've had people tell me that it's something a pro should do, and others that tell me it's just a bolt turning thing. I can do both but would like to know what I'm getting into.

hold your horses there

putting in a locker in the rear and setting the gears vs switching gear ratio on your truck is a big difference. the rear is the simple part (understatement) and that is not a bolt turning thing.....the front is 10x as hard as the rear

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:19 pm

True. There really is not much to it. It's just patience to make sure all the tollerances are correct and the gear mesh pattern is good. If it's just a lunch box locker, no need to worry, cause everything remains the same. Mine would have also, cause it measure exactly the same as my stock eaton from ring gear surface to each end, but when I replaced the pinion seal and torqued down the pinion, it brings the gear just a tad closer with the colapseable shim, so I had to move the whole carrier over about .009". But you also gotta add/sub the same from both sides. Then after all that, check mesh pattern. I had everything right the second time I pulled and added/subtracted, not too bad I guess.

I also checked backlash when it was all stock, the backlash was at max tolerance, now it's at min best tolerance, and I don't get any of that clunking sound now that I used to at 15-20mph.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:11 pm

Uggghhh

I just spent all day trying to get an auto tranny out of a 2001 Firebird Formula LS-1 and it was a cast-iron bitch to complete with out a lift or a proper tranny jack. Helping a buddy pull out a malfunctioning torque converter so that he can ship it back for repair.

Dropping a tranny is one of those things that I said I would never do on my own car, but since we werent taking anything apart internally, and that the 'bird is his car and not mine, I agreed to help.

Remind me to never do that on my truck -- ok?

I think I may just price around on having the rear rend work done, but I'd rather do what I can myself to help offset the costs of having to have the front diff done by a shop.

Course now I have to decide on 3.73's or 4.10's on a truck that will only be running 31's, and driven daily, and on long highway trips as well. -- It doesn't get great gas mileage with stock tires and 3.42's, nd gas isnt getting much cheaper these days.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:23 pm

go with 4.10's!!! I just love the satisfaction of doing the work myself, no matter how hard it is, then I understand how it all works. And I can get the job done as good as I want it. I'm not on the clock like garages, so I can make sure it gets done right the first time.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:24 pm

Oh, and there may be some of my links are broke. I am doing server upgrades.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:50 pm

Yeah --im leannig to the 4.10's as well.

That way if I ever do the Trailmaster kit, i can put 33's on the truck with no gearing issues from what my research tells me.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 7:56 pm

adrenalnjunky wrote:Yeah --im leannig to the 4.10's as well.

That way if I ever do the Trailmaster kit, i can put 33's on the truck with no gearing issues from what my research tells me.

FYI...i found that most people with 33's go with 4.56 and 31's go 4.10

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Oct 05, 2003 8:10 am

a2b wrote:
adrenalnjunky wrote:Yeah --im leannig to the 4.10's as well.

That way if I ever do the Trailmaster kit, i can put 33's on the truck with no gearing issues from what my research tells me.

FYI...i found that most people with 33's go with 4.56 and 31's go 4.10

ditto, but then 4.56's start making our front very weak, because of the small pinion, and also the rear.