I searched, and searched ......31x10.50's without cutting?!?

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:57 pm

I've been talking with a buddy of mine at the office, and he has a '94 Ford Ranger extended cab 4x4 with the 4.0/5spd combo. He was able to run 31x10.50's on his 100% stock suspension.

I got to looking around, and it seems that most have to cut thier fenders to get the 31x10.50's to fit. Bobble Smitty seems to be the closest with the 2" BL, shackles, and TB crank....He's running 30x9.50's. I'd be OK with the 30x9.50's, however I'd really like to go ahead, and get the 31's if I could. Any thoughts on this? I would really like to go as big as I can without cutting. Probably still have some time to get the suspension setup before the current tires wear out, but I'd certainly like to get planning.

I'm also semi-concerned about towing with the taller tires. Should I be concerned about that at all?

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:08 pm

Hey, all I'm running now are air shocks on the back instead of the shackles, but I've got them up to 60 psi to lift it up a little. The rear isn't any concern tho when going with 31s I wouldn't think. I never had my TBs cranked either. Fits the 30s just fine. I have never rubbed anything ever. The front would be the only concern for running the 31s. I would suggest a body lift before getting the 31s tho. Killian96ss used to have 31s on his truck and I don't think he had too many problems. There are plenty of guys running 30s on non-body lifted trucks tho. I see them all the time on blazers and s10s around here. Doesn't seem like they have too many issues.

One more thing, do you have 3.73 or 3.42 gear ratio???

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:09 pm

Oh yea, the Rangers generally have a larger tire than the S10 too. My buddy has a 4x4 ranger and his tires are the equivalent to 30" tires and his are stock.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:54 pm

I've got the 3.73's so no worries there.

Good to hear that the 30's will fit easily, and the 31's might fit with a little rubbing.

I swear I had 31x9.50's on my old Nissan Hardbody, but I can't find them for the life of me now. I loved the way they looked on there. I was contemplating going with 33x9.50's but after looking at HJ's truck I think the might be a bit thin. With that said I've ready several articles that prove beyond a doubt that the slimmer tire produces alot better "mechanical locking", as well as better PSI between the tire, and the associated terrain.

I'm sure I'll figure it out.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:59 pm

Oh yea....very nice looking truck man. I hope my truck looks as clean with the more aggressive tires, and slight lift.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:14 pm

Yep, I've been running the 30's with no issues...until the new rims with less back spacing, (plus the new tires seem to have measured more like 31's). I probably could have fit the 31's with the stock rims, no cutting, and no body lift. It might be done with some slight rubbing. Although, I never measured to see. I did the TB crank right before I added the new rims/tires.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:47 pm

I ran 31x10.5x15's with a 2" BL and TB crank without cutting or fender massaging at all, and I don't think I rubbed at all, even on bumps and such.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:55 pm

You are all dreaming if you think 31's will fit without cutting or lifting.
Take a tape measure and measure the opening. It measures 31". That leaves no clearance.
I rubbed with the stock optional 29" tires under heavy articulation. This was also detailed in one of the early magazine reviews.
With a 2" body lift 31's will clear if you are careful , run the stock wheels and rearspacing. A street queen could do just fine.
If you offroad at all you will find a little section at the bottom of the rear fender that will cause problems. Slight trimming or a little massage with a BFH will take care of it.

To go rub free 30's and a 2" body lift are about the best you can do. Anything more will require cutting for all but the very careful street queens.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:05 pm

I may have cut a small amount from the inside of the fender well, but can't remember for sure.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:13 pm

Probably just that body seam at the bottom.

Here is a good example of how tight a 31 can get.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:07 am

my 31's rub on the frame when you turn the wheel all the way. I also have the bodylift and my t-bars are cranked. HJ told me awhile ago that it's the width that's the problem with the 31's. You can put a small spacer on there to avoid hitting the frame at full lock but then you will need to trim the fender because it's now out further. I just know my tire rubs when I turn the wheel all the way so I just have gotten used to not turning it all the way. If you don't want to rub at all I would go with the 30 x 9.50's.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:23 am

Still no word on streetable 31x9.50's eh?

I do very little actual offroading, and when I do it's not heavy articulation type, it's simple creek fording, and rutted road type stuff. No rock crawling, or anything of that nature. I've found that I just tear stuff up when I try that. My Nissan was a nice truck until I took it off road on a regular basis....might be me, might be the activity....who knows......Back to the topic at hand. I don't mind them rubbing the frame a tad, and I don't mind BFH'ing in the body seam on the front like the picture above....so maybe I can do the 31's?

At any rate, thanks for the info fellas, I might have the tire store test-fit a set of 31x10.50's, and a 30x9.50's and see which I like better on there. In the end I'll probably end up with the 30's since it's mostly a street truck, and thats only 1" taller than stock (although a bit wider).

In some other thoughts, has anyone seen any abnormal bearing wear on the rear from running the 1.5" spacers? Those seem to be the most common, however I'm concerned with hurting those rear bearings while towing with the load levered out further like that. I run 2.25" adapters on the Xtreme, but thats to correct the backspacing of the C5 wheels to stock specs, so the bearing load doesn't change any.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:38 pm

Been doing some looking around and it looks like the 30x9.50 might be the way to go. BFG A/T KO's (which have gotten good reviews both here and at Tirerack.com) are only $117/each or so, and will provide roughly a 6% taller (2") tire than stock. That should improve the appearance enough to keep me happy, as well as improve the traction for my limited off-road use enough to be on par there as well. If I have to I'll put the 2" BL on there, but I think I might try without it first, and see how it works. Being only another $150 or so, and a weekends worth of work (or less with some time on the lift), it's not out of the question to get that if I need it.

My biggest concern with the BL is seeing the frame under the side of the truck. With a black truck and some POR15 (like 'smitty) it seems to blend in nicely, however on a blue truck I saw recently, without the POR15, it stood out pretty bad. I definitely want it blending in as much as possible.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 2:36 pm

Look at the Yokohama Geolanders. I can't recommend them Highly enough. $20 cheaper a tire too. You do have a ZR5 so, just raise the nerfs. If, you need to I can track down the local guy who I sold (I was never paid) my BL modified ones and repossess them

I have a set of aluminum wheels and 33/12.50s that I thought from a guy in Louisville that I have not gotten around to meeting with yet. We were gonna met in Lexington and maybe we could get my nerfs to you that way.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:42 pm

Yea, just raise up the step bars, they hide the frame very nicely! Doesn't take very much time. Just gotta drill some new holes and grind off the lower bolts on the frame. It's a project that maybe takes a few hours if you have a decent drill press and the correct bits.

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 3:45 am

I didn't even think about the step bars. I've even read about several people moving them up. Guess I can attribute the brain fart to the dentist visit yesterday, yea thats it, it's all the dentists fault!

I'll be able to move them up no problem. I have access to a full machine shop, welders, plasma cutters, milling machines, the whole bit. Wonder if I can work out the geometry to make an adapter bracket for people? A nice bolt on method to get the step bars a bit higher? Perhaps making installation easier?......Hrmm...Have to think on that one.

michaels86svo · Post by **michaels86svo** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:53 am

Please make the brackets! I just bought a 2" body lift and it arrived yesterday.My worries are the same old frame showing on the sides and might ad the nerf bars.

ace · Post by **ace** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:23 am

I'd say by far, raising the step bars made a huge appearance difference. It does take some work but the pictures on the site help a lot. The brake cable is actually really easy to take apart but i thought it was going to be complicated. Those brackets are pretty tough metal so a really good drill bit would help. All the mods your looking into really are worth while and make a big difference in the way your truck will look. I was a little hesistant on some of the them but I'm glad I did. Start with the body lift and most mods after that are much easier. Go for it!

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:35 am

michaels86svo wrote:Please make the brackets! I just bought a 2" body lift and it arrived yesterday.My worries are the same old frame showing on the sides and might ad the nerf bars.

I'll look into it when the time comes. Don't expect anything for a few months though, as I have a ton of other crap on my plate currently, and won't be doing a BL myself until at least the fall.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:47 am

I have 31" Kumho MT's on my truck with shackles, body lift and TB crank. I had some rubbing issues that I let go for about 4 months then decided to fix. The tires were rubbing on the plastic front bumber and on the outer rear part of the front wheel well. Everything is fixed and i have no rubbing what so ever and have very good articulation. I will try and post some pics to show what I did to get them to work. I also need to see what back spacing I have on my rims.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:24 pm

I have 31 X 10.5 tires with 4 in. backspacing on the rims. I have one spacer on back to match the width of the front. Pictures can be seen.

ALBUM

I used a air hammer to Pound back the inside of the rear outer fender well and put some of that black window weld that was said to be used on the skidz flare link that is now on hold. I cut the lower part of my plastic bumber off with a thin grinding wheel to get rid of that. I have no problems at all.

Edited-HJ