Rear Axle Seals

[04crewvt]

Postby 04crewvt on Sun Jun 01, 2008 4:51 pm
Rear was just done with the axle seals a couple of weeks ago. I have been debating synthetic for them but I need to see how difficult it would be to do in the driveway or if I can find a local place that uses Amsoil since that's what I want to run if possible, same with the transmission. I expect the rear will get a cover with a drain and go synthetic the next time it gets changed.

Well time for another set of axle seals in the rear, went with aftermarket last time and only got about 10K before they were found to be leaking again, not sure if it was bad seals or bad installation but having the dealership put in OEM this time.

[HenryJ]

Have you replaced the wheel bearings? I would at least check them for any slack. There should be no up and down movement. A little in and out is normal for our c-clip axle.
I suspect that you will need to replace both wheel bearings to make those seals last longer.

[04crewvt]

I suspect if the dealership had found the bearings bad i would have gotten that info from them, they are quite good at spending my money. I will just replace this time and then maybe start looking into the ZR2 option for mine as well if I need to, seeing as how an upgrade to the G80 would be nice (mine does not have it as far as the RPO shows). As it is they also found I needed a new distributor this week P0016 crank/camshaft alignment problem came up and it was found the distributor was no longer rotating inside? it was seizing according to them, and on the way to the dealership I had the windshield crack along the bottom where the defroster blows so I needed to put that in as well. This is on top of the new transmission in the Tahoe I just got back from the shop this week which is now showing a code for a bad knock sensor that from what I read requires a major job to replace seeing as its under the lower intake manifold.

[raven2510]

why not replace the seals yourself if your up to it. Its actually pretty easy...just a few bolts. I did one of mine in 2-3hrs.

[04crewvt]

Unfortunately I have no good place to work on it, I have no garage or access to one and working in the driveway in a VT winter is not really an option( especially one that is not level ), if I was still in my old place with a huge work bay I certainly would have done so as I have done plenty of wrenching and am not intimidated by the job.

[HenryJ]

Don't expect just because the tech works at a dealership, they are doing the right thing. Roller bearings can look good and still be loose. These are not tapered so there is no way to tighten them up.

The whole distributor thing has me a little worried. Without removing it there is no way to tell it is seizing. There is no mechanical advance to go bad. The housing is plastic. What could it possibly seize to? With the engine stopped there is nothing in there to move. I will grant you that I have seen them loose and worn, but not stuck. Something may be getting lost in the translation here, but it all sounds a little fishy to me.

I would be tempted to get a second opinion and find a good shop with which to build a relationship.

[04crewvt]

Yea I understand the lost in translation thing. The only reason i go to this shop is it is the one that replaced the motor and thy have all the warranty info on it. I was hoping this would be a covered problem. This code came up only about 6K after the replacement so it's possible it was damaged when the engine failed and should have been replaced then. I did let the truck sit for nearly 8 months after another code came up after the engine replacement and was not able to spend any money on it. I have yet to get more than a couple thousand miles without a code setting since the replacement so I think I am still dealing with the underlying issues from then.

[s10 again]

x2 with what HJ said. Ask the shop to take a good look at both the bearings and axle shafts. The only other things I can think of is if they are not installing the seals correctly. I don't know how many times I have cringed as a supposedly trained mechanic would not prime the seal and axle before install. Others would rest the axle on the seal as they slid it to the carrier. Either or both of these could damage the new seal. Next would be maybe a additive in there gear oil is not compatible with the seals they are using. Make sure they are replacing the seals with quality parts !!!

I thought for a second on another thing are you running stock type bearings or the axle repair type? If the later that might be your problem.

Chris.

[04crewvt]

First time they were replaced it was at a small shop not the dealership and I no longer go there due to many other issues. It was $200 to get the seals replaced this time and this dealership is way good at deciding that more needs to be done than just the minimum. I will run these and keep an eye out for them to start to leak again. If they do I will go either with a full rebuild or will go ZR2 Axle as HJ did. I have no clue what was put in last time so at least this way it will be with factory parts.

[s10 again]

Cool there were too variables using the small shop that apparently you were not happy with. Did both seals fail? If so I would bet bad install , cheap parts or both. Hope you have better luck with dealer parts/install.

I think I laid wast to my rear diff in all the snow/ice we had here. So I'm kicking around the idea of the zr2 swap as well. Henry's write up makes it look easy.

Chris.

[roadrunner]

I had the windshield crack along the bottom where the defroster blows so I needed to put that in as well.

I feel your pain on that one. Mine too cracked along the defroster all the way across the lower part of the windshield. ticks me off too as it's less than a year old and there were no visible chips in it yet.

[F9K9]

Brian,
Is there a chance you bent an axle tube or an axle? It isn't difficult to do as I have learned.

[04crewvt]

It's possible, but if so it must have been from the run in NH 4-5 years ago. The truck has not been off road since then. I would more go with the theory of a cheap replacement the first time at least until it either happens again or I can find any damage upon inspection.

[04crewvt]

Have seen a number of complaints lately about the small shop I had been using for a lot of the trucks repair work. Allegations of being charged for work not actually performed, work being recommended that a second shop said was unnecessary and such so many of my problem may have been due to this but there is no way to tell for sure. A reliable shop is hard to find up here I had one dealership that did right by me but they are now 80 miles away so not exactly easy to get to. I have a couple of local shops to check out, I will be taking the Tahoe to one to see if they can get the ABS brakes working right, that will give me an opportunity to see how their price and service check out, they work on all the local PD's cruisers and my CERT directors truck so maybe they will end out working out.

[rbrace]

04 crew vt your in luck i know a gm certified mechanic
in hinesburg vt really knows his stuff his phone# is 802-482-3465
and if you think its inpossible to work in vt on the ground in vt
im doing it replacing my rear axle bearing/seal on my 2001 blazer
and if you need help locating a axle let me know
i had to order mine out of state because i have a 8.5 ring gear

[04crewvt]

Thanks for the info but this repair is long done, the thread is a year old LOL. Working in a level drive might be ok but I won't try it in mine in the winter it's sketchy enough in good weather.