Multiple Codes (P0154,P0174,P0300,P1153,P1875)

[roadrunner]

Here we go again. Two days severe mud-driving and today I had to limp the CC home. Yesterday set P0410 cleared it not concerned. Today, however was different. First the truck started running very poorly. Severe power loss. Then the transmission started acting up. No automatic downshifting under moderate to full throttle. Okay, manual shifting for the last 50 miles of mud. Would only go into low gear on full stop then would shift up immediately on moving and bog down severely. Same for third gear. Severe 2-3 overlap and immediate bog and power loss. Next the SES light came on. Hooked up Auto-xray. Codes as follows: P0154, P0174, P0300, P1153, and P1875.
Now, the first four codes appear to be inter-related (bank 2 sensor 1 lean/insufficient activity. The last one really has me . After some net searching I found: Transmission, Automatic Hall Effect Sensor Power Circuit Short to Battery/4WD Low Switch Circuit Electrical.
Unfortunately I've got a ton o mud to clean out from underneath before I can even find anything but if anybody has any suggestions I'm all ears. Perhaps in the case of the forum I should say all eyes.

[BobbleSmitty]

Give it a good wash underneath... maybe some mud got up in some places it shouldn't have. My cousin experienced similar things with his vehicle in the snow... Once it all melted from his vehicle, all of the stuff started working again. Who knows?

[roadrunner]

Yeah, I kinda had that in mind cause at one time the electric 4x4 shift was acting up and after it dried out worked okay again. Gotta clean it anyway as you can't make out what anything is under there right now.

[roadrunner]

Update: Cleaned all mud out from under truck and let it air dry. Still shifting and running poorly. Installed Wait4me computer (instead of buying another one). Had local mechanic do crank-relearn as light was on and blinking (multiple random misfire) as forwarned by Jesse Bubb. Transmission shifting much better but still not running right. Replaced all 3 O2 sensors. Running better but still not right. Runs good till 2-3 miles put on,warm or cold, then starts surging under load. (kinda like the old mechanical fuel pumps when they got weak) Light off but scan shows P0101 pending code. Tried different MAF sensor same results. Am going to check for plugged pre-cat and/or plugged strainer in fuel tank next. Will advise.

[roadrunner]

Update: Pulled tank, strainer okay. Had already replaced fuel filter. Still getting P0101 MAF code. Tried different MAF sensor no effect.
Cut open pipe at pre-cat. 30-50% plugged. Inspected to make sure no Y-pipe overlaps per another post on the forum also--all okay. Installed pipe for test without pre-cat.
Oh My God!!!!! What a difference. Feels like I dropped a 350 4bbl in where the V6 was. Will put you back in the seat now and shifts (most likely due to wait4me computer) are firm and quick. Truck will run up to red-line again and is still accelerating at that point. Locked convertor holds and doesn't unlock so easily now either. Used to unlock with as little as a 3mph drop under cruise now takes about 7-8mph drop before it will unlock and holds much better on hills than before also. Mushiness is gone from shifts as well.
Additionally: no more P0101 MAF performance range codes being set.
Mud cleanout and subsequent inspection while on hoist revealed no causes for P1875 code but it hasn't returned since cleanup and other work so will have to watch for return if it happens.

[Horsehammerr]

That settles it !! I'm RIPPING that useless pre-cat outta there today. I'm plain sick of the PO101 MAF code on mine. I love throwing away useless government CRAP.

[roadrunner]

That settles it !! I'm RIPPING that useless pre-cat outta there today. I'm plain sick of the PO101 MAF code on mine.

"Gentle" application of a sawzall (reciprocating saw) with metal cut blades will do nicely. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I definitely was!

[HenryJ]

Bear in mind that you may no longer pass the visual inspection for those with emissions testing.

[williamcstonejr]

Bear in mind that you may no longer pass the visual inspection for those with emissions testing.

Just gut the precat and sleeve it, weld everything back up and no one will know any better on visual. You could just gut it and weld it back but you will get more turbulence in the exhaust flow, sleeving will permit a smoother flowing exhaust but either way would work.

[roadrunner]

Just gut the precat and sleeve it, weld everything back up and no one will know any better on visual.

Ooooohhh, some people are soooo sneakey.

[Horsehammerr]

I may be misunderstanding something here ? To reset or delete codes, HOW ? I've disconnected + side, - side, both sides, tried every fuse and combination of all these systems . Is there a real DIY reset that doesn't take a investment in electronics gadgets to do ? Please, step by step on one post would be very helpful.

[WileyHunter]

Yeah, go to Vatozone, Checkers etc... and ask to use their code reader (or have them do it) during which time it will ask if you want to clear codes... this is usually FREE.

[HenryJ]

Disconnect both cables and wait three minutes.

[Horsehammerr]

Like I said, I've tried all the equations for reset but nothing worked. I did find on line today,this one:Unhook negative bat. pole, Turn & hold key at start for 15 seconds, Release key in on position, Reconnect bat.pole, Start engine let idle 1 min. , Drive 35-50 miles to give computer time to relearn what ever change you made to fix reason for code to enter. Did it , it worked !! First time. Had to do this after removing Precat, Cleaning MAFS, and moving both Y-pipe O2 sensors out of the pipe with Spark Plug Non Fouler fittings.

[HenryJ]

What is the code set. It may be a condition that still exists.

[Horsehammerr]

P0101 & P0141

[HenryJ]

It takes 8 seconds the first time it fails for the P0101
The P0141 takes two consecutive failures.

Both will eventually clear once the conditions are corrected.