ABS brake problems - Parts number sources

[microsvc]

Does anyone know where on the Internet I can find GM Parts lookup, specifically for my S10 CCab.

Also, I'm in need of the pricey ABS Control Module (full price is $935, discounted is $530) thats recertified/reconditioned? Mine has a very intermittent issue of turning on the ABS and Brakes dash lights, BUT the ABS still works.

Thanks for all the replies!
~Bob

[rlrnr53]

GMpartsdirect.com

[roadrunner]

Does anyone know where on the Internet I can find GM Parts lookup, specifically for my S10 CCab.

Also, I'm in need of the pricey ABS Control Module (full price is $935, discounted is $530) thats recertified/reconditioned? Mine has a very intermittent issue of turning on the ABS and Brakes dash lights, BUT the ABS still works.

Thanks for all the replies!
~Bob

www.rockauto.com Gives part #s for gm and delco.
Are you certain your module is bad? Your description sounds more like a wheel sensor or wheel bearing problem. Also make sure your brake light switch and park brake switch are both functioning properly and both pedals rise to fully off position and stay there without any loose wiggle play.
If this is happening while you are wheelin make sure it isn't just because you're spinning one or two wheels excessively in relation to the rest. Hope this helps. Hate to see anybody have to spend big bucks on repairs. Now mods are another matter.

[killian96ss]

Are you certain your module is bad? Your description sounds more like a wheel sensor

A dirty or faulty ABS wheel sensor can cause similar problems so I would check those first like roadrunner suggested.

Sometimes they just get some dirt or mud built up on them which causes ABS problems, and sometimes the wires get corroded, especially in areas where salt is used on the roads.

Steve

[HenryJ]

A dirty or faulty ABS wheel sensor can cause similar problems so I would check those first like roadrunner suggested.

Sometimes they just get some dirt or mud built up on them which causes ABS problems, and sometimes the wires get corroded, especially in areas where salt is used on the roads.

Steve

Our wheel sensors are internal. Mud or dirt is not a factor.
A bad wheel bearing can leave debris that will cover a sensor. Bad wheel bearing can contribute to a code being set.
Damage to the wiring is a possibility.

[williamcstonejr]

When did you do your brakes last? The mounting bolt should be torque to 12 ft lbs. If hand tightened upon reassembly and missed with the wrench it could allow water debris to collect on the sensor head causing corrosion/rust. The sensor can be cleaned with a scotchbright pad if needed. Did you just replace your tires? You can replace your tires with the same tire size and have issues, not every manufacturer has the same rolling diameter, especially off brand cheaper tires, not a common issue but it does happen.

[HenryJ]

When did you do your brakes last? The mounting bolt should be torque to 12 ft lbs. If hand tightened upon reassembly and missed with the wrench it could allow water debris to collect on the sensor head causing corrosion/rust.

The sensor would not be a part of the brake job. It has a rubber o-ring that seals internally to the hole it slides into, so the bolt that retains it has nothing to do with the integrity of the seal.
During a hub service, I suppose you might remove the sensor, but most come with a new one pre-installed, so again, no reason that one would be removed.
They really are very simple, so failures are not all that common. Damage to the wiring perhaps, but that is easily diagnosed. You can test the sensor with a continuity tester. Rotate the wheel to see the pulse. That is all it is, a pulse generator.

[williamcstonejr]

Chances are neither of these are the problem, just something to check on. You should not need to remove the sensor that is a fact. But if you go to a shop that employs people like the shops around here they will remove the sensor and set it off to the side to ensure they do not damage it. I just replaced my neighbor’s left front sensor last summer after a brake job on an Accord. This shop removes the sensor to make sure they don’t come near it; they treated it like it was a light bulb filament subject to breakage with the slightest touch. Well they hade the sensor removed off the side with the brake caliper hanging from a piece of wire when it fell and damage the wire. They tried to solder it back together and use heat shrink tubing. My friend said he only got about 20 feet down the street before the ABS light came on. He went back and they said that they had an issue with the ABS sensor and thought they corrected the problem but if he left the car they would look at it later that day. He needed the car so finished out his day and came to me that evening. I looked at it found the problem. We called Honda the next day ordered the part, it came in the following day and I replaced it. He took the old part and the receipt with pictures from the inspection and install and they refunded his cost for the part. So it can and does happen and not everyone knows what to look for in a shop and most people on a budget avoid the dealer due to cost unknowingly getting these types of repairs/problems. Labor cost is usually lower and then add the aftermarket parts and these people think that are getting a deal (When nothing goes wrong)

[HenryJ]

I think if I found a shop removing my wheel sensors during a simple brake job, I would go elsewhere. They obviously do not know what they are doing. IIRC, removal is difficult at best since the dust / cooling shield interferes.

Really sounds like a whole bunch of mystery and myth surrounding the wheel sensors. Much of this may have come from the other models and makes that used external sensors. These did incur damage from road debris and could pick up metallic dust that would interfere.
Ours insert into the front hubs and rear differential. They are only subject to the contaminants in the lubrication.
If I was having issues I would pull the front sensors and inspect them for debris or damage, only because we know the front wheel bearings are suspect. Inspect the wiring and connections closely. If the lubricant is clean and the sensor face untouched, I would move on to the rear differential. There I would remove the rear cover and do my inspection, leaving the sensor installed. Again inspecting the wiring and connections closely. A dab of dielectric silicone on the connectors during reassembly.

All of this is good information, but likely not of help for the individual that started this thread. The codes set would help to narrow the problem and lead to a suspect. Front wheel sensors will set identifiable codes.
Let us assume that availability of a scan tool for brake codes is not available. Most do not read ABS codes.
If all the sensors check out, the ABS module is the next likely place to go. Many times people do not change the fluid, or they force debris back through the system during a brake service. These contaminants get trapped in the ABS valving and cause malfunctions. Always bleed the fluid from the calipers into a waste pail. Do not force it back to the master cylinder. This fluid does not circulate. Fluid at the wheels gets heated and abused. This is why you need to bleed the brakes to change the fluid periodically. Well, that and brake fluid is hygroscopic. It seeks out and absorbs moisture. Air has moisture. The fluids hydraulic properties and boiling point are changed with the addition of the water.
Brake fluid needs to be changed periodically to maintain the system , both in preventing corrosion within, as well as performance. You may even notice the firmness return to the feel of your brakes after fluid replacement.

The ABS modules have been an issue. I have replaced three in the fleet for the chevys. Most may have been attributed to improper back flushing of contaminants into the ABS controls. I really don't think there is a good way to fix this as the passages and circuits are just way too small. Replacement is the best option. On a budget I have had success with used parts.
If the Tech thinks it is the ABS module, I think I would agree, as I have replaced more of these than wheels sensors.