No Start Problem *solved* ( BCM problem )

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No Start Problem *solved* ( BCM problem )

Post by rlrnr53 »

I need some suggestions. I went out to atart the crew today, it has been sitting since Tuesday evening. As I went to the truck, I noticed that my remote would not work. I opened the door with the key, and noticed that the dome light would not come on. when I tried to start the engine, it cranded longer tha usual, and started only to die. After trying a few more times, and getting the same results, I cdhecked all th;e fuses. All checked good. Checking further, I have no DRL, no automatic headlights, no underhood lights. I can lock the doors with the door lock switch, but it will not unlock the drivers door. I checked the fuel pressure and have between 55 & 60 lbs. I don't have access to a code scanner at this time. Any Ideas?
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Post by roadrunner »

Battery connections tight? Possibly anti theft system error? Ignition key worn? Run position of switch bad? PCM failed? The list goes on from there. Many things to check from general symptoms you listed. Just throwing some out there. Maybe will help. Maybe not. :?:
Anybody else with better ideas? :pray:
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Post by F9K9 »

Brule will chime in but, here are some initial thoughts. Charge the battery. Pull it and have it tested and charged. Change batteries in your keyless entry fob. I may be thinking about all the problems that I have had with my heep but, if, I lock the door using the key fob then it will not start if, reopened using a key. Don't know if, this will work but, heeps can be fooled if, you unhook the battery then hook it back up with the key in the on position. This is all probably worthless but, may keep you busy until better ideas are provided :lol:
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Thanks for the replies. Battery has been charged, am leaning to possible ignition switch problems. Ran into similar problems on a K3500 a couple of years ago when the heater motor wouldn't run. It doesn't help that I've had the creeping crud for the last couple of days.
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Post by F9K9 »

The driver's door is what is throwing me here. Can you you use the key fob to open another door and try to start it? I know I am comparing apples to oranges but, some of this stuff is just strange to me. Brule must have a meeting tonite but, we need to work this out on our own if, Brule is on Vacation or something.
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Post by roadrunner »

Before you spend bucks try unhooking and rehooking battery. Strange things sometimes happen with onboard computers. Might cause a reset and problem might go away or at least start so you could get to a scanner somewhere to check if there's another problem. 8)
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Post by rlrnr53 »

f9k9, the key fob has no effect on the door locks at all. I can lock all the doors from the driver's door, but only the other three will unlock from the same switch. Road runner, I'll try unhooking the battery in the morning. I have had some strange results resetting the 4wd switches by pulling the courtesy light fuse for about helf an hour.
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Post by williamcstonejr »

I don’t know if you have a Pep Boys in your state. If you do I just picked up my cheapo scanner for $28.00. It’s an Actron Pocket scan, it will read your codes and you can also clear them. After buying it I looked online to make sure I got a good deal and the cheapest I found was from Amazon.com for $42. and change. For $28.00 I figured I couldn’t lose. Not sure if it was a nation wide sale or just local, figured I would give you the heads up considering your current situation.

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Post by rlrnr53 »

Thanks for the info, no Pep Boys close enough to do any good. Advance, Auto Zone, Fishers auto Parts, and NAPA are all we have locally.
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Post by HenryJ »

How old is the battery?

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Re: No Start Problem

Post by F9K9 »

rlrnr53 wrote:............... it cranked longer than usual, and started only to die..............
This is the part that really throws me. Well, that and the door not locking with the other three. :?: It is going to be interesting anyway we look at it.
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Battery is about two years old
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Post by HenryJ »

What is the security light doing?
ArkansasBlaZeR2 wrote:Long story short, I took my truck to a local mechanic to replace my heater core. Somehow he tripped the security function and the truck will not start. We've tried everything i could think of, disconnecting the battery, resetting the computer. The only clue I can come up with is that the keyless entry no longer works either.
If that sounds familiar, try this:
ynotortsac wrote:30 MINUTE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE


Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSLOCK™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK). IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the PASSLOCK™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the PASSLOCK™ Sensor Data Code and/or password).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if desired (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).

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Post by rlrnr53 »

As far as I can tell, the security light was acting normal. I'll check it out better in the morning. I didn't even think about the security system. Thanks to all for the responses.
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Security light stays on steady. Tried 30 min relearn procedure, security light will not go out. Tried unhooking battery (about 15 min), still no luck. Light stays on steady all the time. Still cranks, fires, then dies.
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Security light stays on steady. Tried 30 min relearn procedure, security light will not go out. Tried unhooking battery (about 15 min), still no luck. Light stays on steady all the time. Still cranks, fires, then dies. Does anyone know what code scanners will read body codes?
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Post by HenryJ »

GM TechII

Try the relearn again and follow the directions closely. The light will go off after ten minutes and then you repeat the process. It takes a very long time and patience.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the Passlock™ DTCs.
Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position, and then to the RUN position. The vehicle will start and then stall.
Leave the ignition ON until the security telltale turns OFF in 10 minutes.
Repeat Steps 3-5 for 2 more times (3 times total)
The Passlock™ controller will learn the new data on the next start attempt.
Use a scan tool in order to clear all DTCs.
Make sure you are using the original GM passlock key. These have a dimple on the side.
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by kwalsh »

This behaivor sounds very familiar to the experience I had with the DTC P1626.
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Post by HenryJ »

Brad243 wrote:This should pertain to most GM vehicles with a similar steering wheel/column setup as a 2000 Grand Prix. If your vehicle deliberately shuts off right after cranking, this may pertain to you.

My GP would sometimes shut off right after starting. I checked the DTC's with a scan tool, and found two codes: P1626 - Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received and P1629 Theft Deterrent System - Cranking Signal. I printed off an Anti-Theft wiring diagram for my 2000 Grand Prix GTP w/ PassKey III, and went to work.

I previously noticed that whenever I would turn the steering wheel back and forth right after starting, the car wouldn't shut off. So, I began checking around the steering column since that must be where the issue is. Also, the diagram had shown that the Theft Deterent Module is located around the ignition cylinder, and a dark blue wire for the fuel enable circuit leads from that to the PCM.

I took off the bottom panel of the steering wheel column, and checked out the module and wires. I immediately noticed that the dark blue wire had a gash in it. It was from a metal ring on the steering wheel. BINGO. I did some troubleshooting. I started the car with the wire touching, and it would shut off, without it touching, it would start just fine. Did that a couple more times to make sure it wasn't a coincidence. It wasn't, it WAS the problem. So, I wrapped the wire with some electrical tape, and taped the set of wires down so they wouldn't rub again. I reassembled everything, and bam, problem solved. **** it's nice to fix stuff by yourself and save money.

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Post by rlrnr53 »

Sucess! After stepping back and looking at things, I decided togo back to basics. I made a list of all the things that weren't working, and set down with the service manual to see what they all had in common. The BCM came to the top of the list. After finally finding it, I was trying to get it out of its bracket ands the courtesy lights flashed. I unhooked the three connectors to the BCM and plugged them back up. Everything started working like it did abefore all this happened. I talked to two of the local dealers techs and both reccemmended replacing the BCM. Its a lot to spend, but I don't want it laying down on me again when I need it. HJ, I tried the re-learn procedure a couple of more times before I found the problem, but it didn't help, security light never would go out.
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Post by HenryJ »

Are you sure it wasn't just a bad connection at the BCM?
Glad it is solved.

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Post by rlrnr53 »

Tried the wiggle test before I unhooked the BCM with no luck.
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Post by border man »

Does the BCM control the wireless entry? My remotes stopped working recently. Before that, they worked intermitently even after using new batteries and doing the reset procedure that's on the remotes. I know the remotes are transmitting, but the truck is not responding. If not controlled by the BCM, is there a receiver in the truck?
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Post by rlrnr53 »

On the 01, the recxiever is located on the drivers side, an the panel under the dash. There are between 3 & 5 7mm bolts holding the panel in place. The ALDL iss located in this same panel. The way I read the wiring diagrams, the relays for the door locks are in the BCM. You might try unhooking and hooking back up the BCM. I found my problem when I hit ehe BCM and the courtesy lights flashed. I checkeed my remote at Auto Zone with a tester they had sitting on the counter.
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Post by BADs Crew »

rlrnr53 wrote: After finally finding it
Is it under the dash ? :?:

Is this a picture of what I would be looking for?

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Post by rlrnr53 »

Under the dash in the midddle, above the tape player. Thats the BCM, a new one is about 250.00 tax included(6%) in WV>
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Post by BADs Crew »

When the weather warms up I will hit the bone yards and find one to keep around just in case. You can pull parts yourself around here so I bet I could pick it up for next to nothing if not free.
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Our assortment of yards is limited. There used to be about 6 or 7 yards within about 10 mi., but most are from 15 to 25 mi. now.
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Post by rlrnr53 »

Bads Crew, a used BCM might be the best way to go. All you would have to do is the 30 min Passlock learn procedure. It cost me $75.00 to have the new BCM programed.
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