vacuum actuator location, fender or core support?

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williamcstonejr
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vacuum actuator location, fender or core support?

Post by williamcstonejr »

I need some help please. I have searched the forum but cannot find a specific on the 4 wheel drive vacuum actuator. I know by running my searches that it is under the battery but is it on the fender or the core support?
Last edited by williamcstonejr on Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
JaVeRo
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Post by JaVeRo »

You actually have to take the battery tray out to get to it which is not that difficult. I think it's actually bolted to the inner fender well.

James
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Post by williamcstonejr »

I just needed to know the actual location. I just got my truck back from the body shop on thursday, and the front diff is not locking. Before I took it in it was. The right front fender was repaired, the hood left front fender and everything on the front end including the radiator core support was replaced. The insurance company forced me to take "recycled parts" I call them junk yard parts. My concern is if the actuator is mounted to the core support they may have used the part front the junk yard explaining why the front diff no longer locks. :x
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Post by roadrunner »

Most body shops I've dealt with make vehicles look good but don't pay proper detail to brackets etc. Check to make sure all vac hoses are routed and attached properly. Check to make sure vac actuator is solidly mounted and cable is attached properly. Check actuator is tightly attached to mounting bracket. The screws on mine holding it to the bracket came loose once thus causing shifting troubles and errors in shift system. Also check that the switch wires to the front cable position sensor by the differential are properly connected and not damaged from the accident.
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Post by williamcstonejr »

JaVeRo wrote:You actually have to take the battery tray out to get to it which is not that difficult. I think it's actually bolted to the inner fender well.

James
James thank you for the info I just need to know for sure. My problem is I took my truck back to the body shop early this morning because they put a scratch in my passenger door that they now have to fix. They are going to send my truck to “their mechanic” to check out the 4X4 issue. Since I do not have my truck here to look at it I am trying to find out if the actuator is on the fender or the core support. The body shop used a complete front clip for donor parts. I am trying to avoid the situation of any problems with this shop if they used an actuator that may have come with the junk yard front end they painted and slapped on my truck. Everyone thank you for your information but can anyone tell me where this thing is located for sure??? I would look myself if I had my truck. Fender or core support……….anyone? Thank you.
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Post by roadrunner »

williamcstonejr wrote: Everyone thank you for your information but can anyone tell me where this thing is located for sure??? I would look myself if I had my truck. Fender or core support……….anyone? Thank you.
Two bolts (accessible from wheel side of inner fender) secure the bracket which holds the actuator directly to the RH inner fender. Removal of battery tray allows access to actuator. You might be able to access without tray removal but I wouldn't reccommend you try it that way. If you look at the inner fender (when you get your truck back) from the right front wheel side you will see the bolt heads on a slightly diagonal pattern directly in front of the wheel about one third the height of the wheel from the top down. (top of the wheel that is) I don't know how to be any more specific than that unless someone wants to post pictures. I don't have that capability at present.
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Post by williamcstonejr »

THANK YOU!!!!!!!! That is what I was looking for. This means I have a good chance that they did not use an old part from the junk yard since they replaced the core support but not the inner fender. It is probably nothing more than a vacuum line not connected, thank you again that is a huge relief for me. I was expecting the part to be mounted on the core support and having to fight with the body shop about them removing my working part and replacing with a defective one.
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Post by roadrunner »

Glad to have been of assistance. :D
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Post by williamcstonejr »

Got my truck back today. The shop owner wasnt there but the girl at the desk said the 4x4 was working now. Something about a hose not connected she said. So I take my truck and tried to go up the same hill I used as a test before taking it in to the shop but just after my accident no dice, just got rear wheel spin. Took it home and tore it apart and looky what I found. Funny it worked before I took it in and they just had the whole front end apart.

Maybe this explains why my front diff isnt working :twisted:

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Post by roadrunner »

Yup. That'd do it!!! Not defending the body shop but could this have happened in the accident? If so insurance should pay for it as "hidden damage". I've been down that road before on other vehicles.
If you can't go that way you'll just hafta bite the bullet and buy one from a parts house or GM.
Not to belabor an issue but make sure you lube the cable that hooks to this actuator very well with PB Blaster or similiar oil. Very light weight only. Don't use WD 40 or similiar as they dry off and also are hygroscopic in nature. (attract moisture) If you doubt this just ask any black powder shooter about "rusting up" his favorite shootin iron because of it. :wink:
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Post by williamcstonejr »

Well I would say possible but all of the damage was to left front as sitting in the drivers seat. And I did test the 4x4 on a 2:1 slope the day before I took it in. I crawled up the slope in 4lo no problems, now all I get is rear wheel spin in the very same spot. The shop is buying me a new part and I am putting it in myself when it arrives. :bug: Oh I forgot to mention the right front fender didnt have any damage when I took it in until one of the guys hit it with another car moving into the shop at night during closing. :clap:
Don't use WD 40 or similiar as they dry off and also are hygroscopic in nature. (attract moisture)
:idea: thanks for the definition I was about to go look that one up.
Last edited by williamcstonejr on Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
[size=75]All it takes is time and money.....the two things I don't seem to have very much of[/size]
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Post by roadrunner »

Sounds like ya need to find a different shop. Carelessness with customers cars would make me question quality and dependability of workmanship in my book. JMO.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Post by williamcstonejr »

Part came in last night couldn’t wait to put it in. The truck climbed that hill like it wasn’t there- Jigg, thank you.
Anyone changing one that has not done it before I suggest putting the screws on before putting the actuator on. The plastic back of the actuator is not tapped so if you run the screws in first and take them out it makes it easier to get them started when installing inside the engine compartment.. Oh, if you lube your cable make sure you put the dust cover boot back on the cable. I notices mine sitting on the fuse block just as I was going to hook the battery back up. :oops:
[size=75]All it takes is time and money.....the two things I don't seem to have very much of[/size]