Distributor cap installation question

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green02crew
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Distributor cap installation question

Post by green02crew »

So I put new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter and flushed all the fluids on it the other day since none of those things had been done on it for 50k miles. ( I didn't own the truck just got it over the summer).

Long story short I should have read the threads on here about distributor cap installation I thought I had stripped a screw installing it but I guess I broke the plastic on the distributor because of the locktite buildup. The cap seems on tight and the truck runs.

Should I worry about this? If so is there any cheap/easy way of fixing it without buying a new distributor? I heard somewhere about JB Weld being used to glue it together?
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Post by F9K9 »

You might want to sear4ch S-10Forum.com for a cheap fix but, I'd rather not recommend one. I had mine replaced under warranty. Salvage yards might be an alternative.
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Post by HenryJ »

I really think you could do it with a product like JB Weld, or WaterWeld, but to do a good job you would have to remove the distributor. Then replacement is pretty attractive.
I'll be going to the aluminum distributor if it ever happens to me.

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Post by green02crew »

Yeah I really don't want to have to dump the money into a new one when this one performs just fine... Thanks for the support though I'll take it apart this weekend and give it a try. It's the hole by the firewall too so its really hard to get at so I'll definitely have to take it out. Hope its not too hard to do!
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HenryJ
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Post by HenryJ »

Check out the website stock information for the install directions.

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Post by green02crew »

Do you think it might be possible to just get a longer screw that comes out the bottom and put a nut on it? That would be a very cheap and easy fix if its possible.
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Post by HenryJ »

No. There is nothing left to tighten against if the ear is broken.

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Post by green02crew »

Well the ear isn't broken completely off its just split open so the screw turns inside it when it gets too tight so I'm just thinking a small bolt could go through both holes then get tightened down w/ a nut on the bottom.
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Post by Cajun »

Sounds like it would be worth a try. I had the same though as a back-up if I goofed-up mine. I got lucky I guess.
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Post by green02crew »

Ok so in case anyone was wondering or happens to mess up as I did installing the distributor cap and cracks the screw hole for the distributor. Just head to home depot and get a small bolt #6-32, 2 washers, a nut. Thread the bolt through with a washer on top, put a washer then a nut on the bottom and tighten it down! Stronger than the screws it comes with!
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Post by Torskdoc »

Man you MUST have Tiny Fingers :lol: ! Did you threadlock the nut or doublenut it. I'm worried if you don't the nut will eventually back off and the cap may shift. Then ya got more problems.

J.B. Weld works great. Used it to close up a crack(water jacket on the block) in my 3.0L Mercruiser engine's block 5 years ago. Hasn't wept, cracked, run, or anything else. Few of my buddies are using it to repair pumps and stuff on Nuc. Subs and have been for years. I use it on non critical machinery repairs on the Diesel Sub in Baltimore.

All you have to do is build up the area in stages/layers. A layer(thin is better) every 2 hours or so. Then let sit for 24 hours for MAX Strength. Drill the hole and tap it for a 6-32.

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Post by green02crew »

I think i just got lucky putting the nut on I really don't know how I did it! I JB'd the crack on the distributor screw housing and put some on the threads so the nut wouldn't back off. I was worried about that too! I couldn't manage to fit another nut on there (my fingers aren't THAT small). Cheap/bad looking fix but you can't see it! Just a pain to take the cap off at a later date if I have to.
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