Front hub / wheel bearing assembly replacement.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:08 pm

GM Data wrote:Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement 4WD Pickup and Utilities

Tools Required
J 45859 Axle Remover

Removal Procedure

1. Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands.
2. Remove the tire and the wheel.
3. Install punch in rotor vanes to hold from turning.
4. Remove the drive axle nut.
5. Remove the drive axle washer.
6. Remove the rotor.
7. Using the J 45859 or equivalent, disengage the wheel driveshaft from the hub and bearing.
8. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt from the wheel hub and bearing.
9. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub and bearing.
10. Remove the wheel hub and bearing to the steering knuckle mounting bolts.

Important
Lay the wheel hub and bearing on the wheel hub studs on the outboard side. This prevents damage or contamination to the bearing seal.

11. Remove the wheel hub and bearing to the steering knuckle.
12. Remove the splash shield from the steering knuckle.
13. Remove the wheel hub and bearing seal from the wheel hub and bearing.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the wheel hub and bearing seal to the wheel hub and bearing.
2. Install the splash shield to the steering knuckle. Align the shield to the steering knuckle.
3. Install the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle. Align the threaded holes.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

4. Install the wheel hub and bearing to the steering knuckle mounting bolts.
Tighten the wheel hub and bearing to the steering knuckle mounting bolts to 105 N·m (77 lb ft).
5. Install the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing.
6. Install the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolt.
Tighten the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolt to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).
7. Install the rotor.
8. Install punch in rotor vanes to hold from turning.
9. Install the drive axle washer.
10. Install the drive axle nut.
Tighten the drive axle nut to 140 N·m (103 lb ft).
11. Install the tire and the wheel.
12. Lower the vehicle.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 1:24 am

Thanks for the procedure breakdown. I am pretty sure I am in need of a wheel bearing myself. Truck is getting awful loud. Is there a redneck equivalent to the gm axle removal tool or at least an after market one?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 2:42 am

I used a big gear puller. This might stress the hub assembly that is being removed, but since it is being replaced I was not concerned.

T Man · Post by **T Man** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:58 pm

Ive found a soft face 24 oz deadblow on the cv shaft usually does the trick once the hub bolts are removed

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:09 pm

Good point. Leaving a nut in place to protect the threads would be a good idea too. One good swat to jar it loose it all it takes sometimes.
I used a little pressure on the gear puller and then give it a good swat. That pops it loose most of the time.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:19 pm

Just to toss something into the "fray", The front bearing assemblys are very similar to most jeeps. I just replaced both in my XJ and a BFH on the assembly's studs (protected with a nut screwed out to protect the threads) will help a bunch. Cleaning all mating surfaces and then a liberal coating of antiseize will make the next replacement go a lot faster.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:28 pm

A little

but does anyone else get blurred vision looking at the red letters in the removal procedure above?

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:30 pm

I do!

It works OK on the normal background , but in a quote it is terrible.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:07 pm

killian96ss wrote:A little but does anyone else get blurred vision looking at the red letters in the removal procedure above?........

Oh! I thought it was something associated with having over one half of a century on the ticker

T Man · Post by **T Man** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:39 pm

I dont know if it didnt get posted, or got deleted, but I replied. Here it goes again

I used to leave the hub nut on to protect the threds, but I also used a ballpeen deadblow to do that. I made one expensive boo boo, then decided the $100 Snap On plastic face 24oz deadblow would be a cheeper alternative. Since then no problems, the face delivers the blow with enough force to drive the cv shafts out, but since it deforms, it saves the shaft itsself. I recently bought an OTC Hub puller for stubborn hubs, but at $170 Its hardly a practical option for the weekend warrior. I recouped it 4 days after I paid for it, but its not something I would justifiy if I didnt wrench for aliving

*EDIT*
Henry, back to a previous post, amp draw on a fuel pump should be between 3 and 4 amps

GAS · Post by **GAS** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 9:09 pm

I wondering does GM know that WB supplies preassembled with wheel hub and speed sensor and even with new bearing seal?

In addition, I think before you “disengage the wheel driveshaft from the hub and bearing” you need to unfasten (but not remove) the steering knuckle mounting bolts to 1. prevent driveshaft damage 2. be sure that you will unscrew it ever. And yes, you’ll need some removing tool or you probably would not disengage driveshaft from the WB, I bought universal remover for ~ $10 especially for those procedure. Also youll need pretty long tube to unscrew the hub nut and to tighten it back (140 N*m).

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 1:34 am

Anybody have any dealings with this place? It looks like a good option for those of us in need of front hub assemblies/bearings.E-Bay bearings

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 2:06 am

Seems to good to be true, Brian. Cheapest Rock Auto.com has is $123. I'd check out Jigg's web site for his premium one.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 3:23 am

Oh I know the price seems way low that's why I was checking on it. Good feedback ratings but you never can tell. I have looked at a number of places and Jiggs is the best price at a non E-Bay site. Jigg what is the warranty on yours? Just keeping my options open right now but need to do something soon. Truck has started getting really loud in the last couple of days. Tires look good so I am pretty sure it's the bearing on the drivers side, I can feel a little vibration in the steering wheel as well as through the floorboard.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:19 am

The warrantee on my bearings is 1 year.

FWIW, i run them on both sides of my blazer.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 1:35 pm

04crewvt wrote:............... Tires look good so I am pretty sure it's the bearing on the drivers side, I can feel a little vibration in the steering wheel as well as through the floorboard.

Careful, I thought the same thing on my XJ. Replaced the driver's side (only one I checked) took it for a test drive. Noise was still there. Both sides were bad!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 2:52 pm

I had planned on checking both sides before I purchased. Truck is due for lube job and I will check while I am at it.Need to check rotors and caliper slide pins before winter so I hope to check everything out and get all parts at once to do any needed work. Really too bad the bearings have started to go just 8k out of warranty.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 9:36 am

Well I got a start on things today. I was able to get the front end work done including lubing caliper slide pins, grease to all 13 zerks (including the P/U bushings on the sway bar) checked for movement of bearings (looks like there fine). I rotated tires to see if that is where the increased noise is coming from. I got the rear jacked up and on stands with the tires off when the skies opened up. I have been waiting for hours for the "occasional showers" to let up so I can get back at it. I really miss my garage on days like this.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:35 am

04crewvt wrote:........................... I have been waiting for hours for the "occasional showers" to let up so I can get back at it. I really miss my garage on days like this.

Send the rain this way! I have a pup that has never seen real rain! It sprinkled on her one time and she freaked out. Dropped to the ground rubbing her eyes. We are going to have one halacious fall fire season here. All the heavy fuels are dried out and have been for months. We'll be in the national news soon with all the western fire crews coming here instead of the reverse.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:40 am

Glad I have a 3 day weekend, today is pretty much shot it's 4:30 and getting dark and still raining, looks like another storm front coming in. I would gladly send the rain your way. We have had a summer of fairly high temps and very humid. Yesterday hit 81 this is not Vermont October weather.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:51 am

Record 92° today, predicted the same for Sun and Mon. The humidity is not bad but, that equals high fire danger too.