My front end project UPDATE-Plugs/Wires done O2 sensor ?

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed May 02, 2007 10:52 am

Well guys in the next week or so I plan on fixing my front end. I already have the Bilsteins, 4 ball joints and an idler arm, plugs and wires. I think I'm going to get the wheel bearings Synergy offroad offers, energy suspension control arm and sway bar bushings. I also plan on putting POR-15 on the control arms.

1st-Any tips on doing plugs and wires? I plan on going in through the wheel wells and removing the steering shaft on the drivers side to get to the #3 plug.

2nd-I've replaced ball joints but never on a S-Series before. I know I have to drill out the rivets. Also what about the idler?

3rd-I know for the control arms I have to get the bushings pressed so I think I'm going to do that when I do the ball joints.

I'm very mechanically inclined pretty much all I do is mess with cars I have GM's 3 set service manuals so I'm going to follow alot of that. I'm doing this by myself as opposed to waiting to get a buddy to help me. I know I'm not going to be the fastest, but its better than trying to work around another persons schedule

4th-Thanks for the help!

LonestarZ · Post by **LonestarZ** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:09 am

The first time changing balljoints on these trucks is a major PITA. I prefer air chisel and a grinder.. but a Drill should be good enough.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:43 am

I actually prefer drilling out the rivets and then popping them off with a chisel. I found it much faster that way. Just make sure you have good drill bits, otherwise it'll take forever. I drill them out with like an 1/8" (or maybe a bit bigger) bit... pop the head off with the chisel, and then just use a punch to pop the rivet back down through the ball joint and control arm.

The idler arm is VERY easy, just take the front skid plate off, unbolt it at the frame (two bolts) and at the centerlink, pop it loose with a pickle fork, and put the new one in there. Reverse the process and you're done. Takes no more than 20 minutes start to finish.

Plan on an entire day to do what you're looking to get done. I think it's definitely best to do it all at the same time, that way you're only taking the truck apart once. Make sure to go get an alignment afterwards since you're replacing so much of the front end, including the control arm bushings.

It's really not that hard, just kind of time consuming. Take your time and be sure to post any issues you come up with.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed May 02, 2007 3:13 pm

Jigg, yeah thats what I figured. I'm waiting to get all the parts before I do this stuff.

My passenger side wheel bearing is just barely starting to go, but I'd rather just replaced them and get it done with.

I think its going to be a weekend project since I have to get the bushings pressed into the arms.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed May 02, 2007 10:30 pm

Bumps

Firehawk · Post by **Firehawk** » Thu May 03, 2007 8:14 am

Maybe it is Different for the crew cabs but I dont think removing the steering shaft will be required to get to the #3 plug, I just changed mine out within 20 minutes, I just had a couple 3/8 extensions and a swivel that allows it to been spun at a little bit of an angle and presto- BTW it does make it easier when you jack up the truck to do them.

The BJ's arent that bad once you get all the rivets out, Idler arm is going to be the easiest part of the project.

Make sure you have a DEEP Socket and a BREAKER Bar for your axle Nuts.

oh and also you may want to make sure you have an 18MM wrench.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 03, 2007 11:52 am

The last time I replaced the upper control arm bushings on my SS and my 88 S10 Blazer I used this bushing press made by Astro Pneumatic.

On their web site, search for "bushing press".

I think I got mine off E-Bay a few years back.

If you are installing ES bushings you might not need a press since all you need to do is remove the inner sleeve and rubber bushing and reuse the outer shell (ES upper control arm bushings do not come with the outer shell/sleeve).

DO NOT use heat to remove the bushings as this will weaken the metal.

Jigg's process for removing the rivets is exactly how I do mine, and it works pretty good.

If you have an air chisel it is even easier.

When you replace the idler arm you must make sure that you do the "steering linkage parallelism adjustment".

The tolerance from side to side is only 1/16".

Most new idler arms come with the instructions for this adjustment, but if they don't I can post the process if needed.

The idler arm bolt holes are slotted so you CAN'T just install the new idler arm and be done.

If you skip this step your linkage might not be parallel which leads to premature failure of the idler arm and pitman arm.

It is surprising how many people skip this step.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 03, 2007 11:53 am

Firehawk wrote:Make sure you have a DEEP Socket and a BREAKER Bar for your axle Nuts.

....and a torque wrench capable of 200 foot pounds.

Steve

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm

killian96ss wrote:When you replace the idler arm you must make sure that you do the "steering linkage parallelism adjustment".

The tolerance from side to side is only 1/16".

Most new idler arms come with the instructions for this adjustment, but if they don't I can post the process if needed.

The idler arm bolt holes are slotted so you CAN'T just install the new idler arm and be done.

If you skip this step your linkage might not be parallel which leads to premature failure of the idler arm and pitman arm.

It is surprising how many people skip this step.

Steve

Please do... i'm definitely curious as to how to do this... i just replaced my idler arm and definitely didn't do anything special.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 03, 2007 1:27 pm

Steering Linkage Parallelism Adjustment

#1. With vehicle on a level surface, turn steering wheel 3/4 turn right from center so that the left inner tie rod end stud is directly under the upper control arm nut.

#2. Put an 18mm socket on end of upper control arm nut and measure from socket to center of inner tie rod end stud. (socket must be held flush against upper control arm surface)

#3. Turn steering wheel 3/4 turn left from center so that right inner tie rod end stud is directly under the upper control arm nut.

#4. Repeat step #2

#5. If the difference between the left and right dimensions is not within 2mm (1/16") from side to side, adjust idler arm by loosening idler arm mounting bolts and moving arm up or down to get equal measurement.

These directions are from MOOG, and might sound a little confusing, but basically what you are doing is making sure both inner tie rods are parallel to the suspension.

This is done by taking measurements on both sides using the middle of each inner tie rod stud and using a reference point like the upper control arm mounting nut/bolt.

The only problem I see with MOOG's instructions is that they tell you to use the upper control arm nuts/bolts as a reference point.

The problem with this is that we have cam bolts (4wd) that can be positioned differently on each side due to alignment settings.

If you use the upper control arm bolts you will have to loosen each side and make sure that they are the same up/down.

If you do this you will want to mark the original locations with paint or something in order to put them back where they were before you moved them, or just go have your alignment done.

The other option would be to find a different reference point on each side that is the same from side to side.

Steve

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Fri May 04, 2007 10:41 am

hmmm... if one didn't do this, would it have any effects while driving? Like say, vibrations?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri May 04, 2007 10:59 am

Jigg wrote:hmmm... if one didn't do this, would it have any effects while driving? Like say, vibrations?

I doubt you would notice anything unusual, except for a maybe a little extra resistance, but even that might not be noticeable.

If the tolerance from side to side is way off you might notice some some looseness develope later, but nothing immediately after the install.

Most steering vibrations are caused by faulty PS pumps, alignment settings, wheel bearings, or tire issues like feathering, cupping (both from worn out parts or bad alignment settings), improper balancing, flat spotting (caused by hot tires parked on a cold surface or severe braking), or out of round conditions.

Steve

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri May 04, 2007 3:12 pm

On the plug behind the steering shaft I just slid up the rubber boot on the shaft and use a plug socket with the hex head top. I then used a box end wrench on the socket. Yeah I busted my knuckle when it broke loose but it healed.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Sat May 05, 2007 3:46 am

killian96ss wrote:Most steering vibrations are caused by faulty PS pumps, alignment settings, wheel bearings, or tire issues like feathering, cupping (both from worn out parts or bad alignment settings), improper balancing, flat spotting (caused by hot tires parked on a cold surface or severe braking), or out of round conditions.

I've had a pretty bad vibration since a couple of weeks ago, when i did the following:

-Rotated my tires for the first time in probably 15k miles (front to back and then back to front but switched sides)

-Replaced driver's side wheel bearing

-lost a .75 oz weight on one wheel.

I didn't attribute it to the wheel weight since it's such a small amount of weight, but the vibration is definitely harmonic... it happens mostly at 30-35 and 60-65...

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 6:42 pm

Step 1 Done!

I ended up jacking the truck up.

I should have taken the wheels off since it would have been easier to get the the plugs. I ended up jacking the truck up and going in through the wheel wells. Passenger side was easy. Drivers side I unbolted the steering shaft and moved that out of the way. Getting it back on was fun. I had my dad wiggle the steering wheel while I sprayed PB Blaster and slid it back on.

The hardest part was getting the wires out of those stupid holders. I ended up breaking one.

Anyone have an easier way? My buddy says a 90* pick works best. Also, does anyone put the loom back onto the new wires?

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 6:55 pm

Ohh and I beat my wrists and knuckles up pretty bad.

I don't what it is but I really get pissed working on cars, what can I do?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun May 06, 2007 7:10 pm

Tony wrote:....The hardest part was getting the wires out of those stupid holders. I ended up breaking one.

Anyone have an easier way? My buddy says a 90* pick works best. Also, does anyone put the loom back onto the new wires?

The looms are a PITA but, it is best to utilize them. I had the issue several times and was talked through it. Maybe perform a search on "spark plug wires" with me as the poster will provide the answers. I am too da_n POed cussing Jeeps to be of much help now.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 7:19 pm

f9k9 wrote:
Tony wrote:....The hardest part was getting the wires out of those stupid holders. I ended up breaking one.

Anyone have an easier way? My buddy says a 90* pick works best. Also, does anyone put the loom back onto the new wires?
The looms are a PITA but, it is best to utilize them. I had the issue several times and was talked through it. Maybe perform a search on "spark plug wires" with me as the poster will provide the answers. I am too da_n POed cussing Jeeps to be of much help now.

I know it protects the wire from getting stiffed and covered in heat. I had no problem getting the one on for the coil wire. The rest on the passenger side were a PITA! I ended up finding some loom in my garage that fit all 3 wires so I just used that. I'll check them at the next oil change and see if I should get different loom. The factory stuff was just real stiff!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun May 06, 2007 7:32 pm

Tony wrote: I had no problem getting the one on for the coil wire. The rest on the passenger side were a PITA! I ended up finding some loom in my garage that fit all 3 wires so I just used that. I'll check them at the next oil change and see if I should get different loom. The factory stuff was just real stiff!

Having the wires separated is the most important thing. Seeing what you are doing helps alot and I swore I would remember how to do it after my second set of wires but, I have forgotten once again.

Hope you used dielectric grease on the plug boots and such. Helps the next time around.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 7:43 pm

f9k9 wrote:
Tony wrote: I had no problem getting the one on for the coil wire. The rest on the passenger side were a PITA! I ended up finding some loom in my garage that fit all 3 wires so I just used that. I'll check them at the next oil change and see if I should get different loom. The factory stuff was just real stiff!
Having the wires separated is the most important thing. Seeing what you are doing helps alot and I swore I would remember how to do it after my second set of wires but, I have forgotten once again.

Hope you used dielectric grease on the plug boots and such. Helps the next time around.

Believe me I've done a few tune-ups. I put anti-seize on the plugs, and di-electric grease on everything.

All I am talking about is getting the stock loom over the new wires. Instead of messing with 5 year old stiff stuff. I just replaced it with one big piece of 1/2" loom.

So you're saying keeping separated is better?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun May 06, 2007 8:03 pm

Tony wrote: So you're saying keeping separated is better?

Yes it is best to keep the plug wires separate from each other.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun May 06, 2007 8:04 pm

It sounds like you did what was needed.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 8:57 pm

Maybe I'll pick up some split wire loom from NAPA tomorrow.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun May 06, 2007 10:30 pm

Should I replace all the O2's? They are orginal.

I'm thinking of going with Denso. There are 3 right?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon May 07, 2007 5:27 am

Tony wrote:Should I replace all the O2's? They are orginal.

I'm thinking of going with Denso. There are 3 right?

What is your current mileage?

Stock 02's are supposed to be good until 100k miles but they really start to lose their efficiency around 60k miles.

Get some new AC Delco 02 sensors if you replace them since a lot of the after market 02's can cause problems.

The 02's before the cat are the most important ones to change since they directly affect engine performance and gas mileage.

The 02 sensor after the cat is just for OBD2 purposes and usually lasts a lot longer than the pre-cat 02's.

Steve

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Mon May 07, 2007 7:05 am

I'm at 104k. My buddy has a Grand Prix and he's been Denso's get better readings. But I guess I'll go with Delco then.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon May 07, 2007 8:10 am

Tony wrote:I'm at 104k. My buddy has a Grand Prix and he's been Denso's get better readings. But I guess I'll go with Delco then.

What do you mean by "better readings"?

Is he referring to air fuel ratios, gas mileage, emission #'s, etc.?

Are these "better readings" in comparison to a used OEM sensor or a new OEM sensor?

The most important thing to look for in a replacement 02 sensor is whether or not the design matches the OEM sensor.

The aftermarket 02's that I have seen cause problems have slightly different elements and vent holes.

I know the Bosch 02's are usually different and sometimes decrease performance.

The Denso's may work just fine, but I would compare one to an AC Delco sensor just to be sure if you decide to go that route.

Steve

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Mon May 07, 2007 8:48 am

I know Bosch sucks.

I think what my buddy meant by better readings is when hooked up to a scanner he gets more accurate numbers?

I'm going to see if I can find someone that carries Delco around here.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Tue May 08, 2007 3:10 pm

Anyone know where I can get cheap AC Delco O2's?

All I can find is $70 bucks or more.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed May 09, 2007 5:32 am

Tony wrote:Anyone know where I can get cheap AC Delco O2's?

All I can find is $70 bucks or more.

The cheapest I have ever found them was $50 each at a local dealership.

I just told them that one of my usual suppliers charged $50, but that they were out at the time so I wanted to see if they would price match, and they did.

The heated O2's are much more expensive than the older non heated O2's.

Keep looking, maybe you will find a better price, but I think $65-$75 is the going rate for these.

Steve

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed May 09, 2007 10:38 am

I'm going to call a couple other parts stores around here and see if they can get it. Otherwise I'm going to get it online. I was hoping to get one before this weekend, since I was going to taking a 400 mile road trip but my friend might end up driving.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:26 am

This problem just started. When I turn full against the stops LEFT, my right side tire rubs my swaybar real hard. I have not made any mods or adjustments since I cranked my T-bars 3 turns on each side 4 months ago. I know I should get an alignment,but I'm waiting to put new tires on soon. I havn"t been off-road or anything but hiway-street since the T-bar adjustment. Steering has not changed other than it feels more positive in corners and curves, less understeer. Any ideas why this rub problem would develop ? "02 ZR5,255/70/15,stock wheels,all else stock.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:38 am

Horsehammerr, the reason why the tires rub the sway bar after a t-bar crank is because the lower control arms are now at a different angle (pointed downward) which causes the front wheels to be closer to the frame and each other.

This example of the control arms is highly exaggerated but you should get the idea:

Stock = __ __

1'-2" t-bar crank = / \

After a t-bar crank the wheels are closer to each other.

BTW, make sure you get an alignment real soon!

Steve

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:21 am

Thanks Killian, I know I should do the alignment, but I'm going to wait for the new tires, polygraphite bushing, hubs,and ball joints first then get the alingment. I was hoping someone knew how to make even a slight adjustment to stop this rubbing. Guess I'll just have to remember not to turn against my stops. Again Thanks !

HORSEHAMMERR

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:51 am

Horsehammerr wrote:I was hoping someone knew how to make even a slight adjustment to stop this rubbing. Guess I'll just have to remember not to turn against my stops.

The tires will most likely still still rub the frame after the alignment so you might consider having some material built up (welded) on the factory stops to help limit the rubbing.

Steve

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My front end project UPDATE-Plugs/Wires done O2 sensor ?

My front end project UPDATE-Plugs/Wires done O2 sensor ?

My front end project UPDATE- Plugs Wires done 02 sensor?

Re: My front end project UPDATE- Plugs Wires done 02 sensor?