4wd problem again *solved*
Moderator: F9K9
4wd problem again *solved*
This happened last winter and now it's happening again. When I engage four wheel drive everything engages fine but it feels like I just slammed into first gear at 50mph. Though I'm engaging 4wd at about 15 mph. It feels likes it's having a real hard time with the gearing or something. Plus the whole truck pulls extremely to one side. Then I'll attempt to go back into 2wd and it stays in 4wd even when you let off the gas and then all of sudden a loud jolting thud happens and it's back into 2wd. Sometimes the truck still pulls to one side also even after it's back in 2wd. Anybody have any suggestions?
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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coffeedrnkr
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are you shifting into 4hi or 4lo??
b/c if you shift into 4lo at 15mph I would imagine that it is pretty violent.....
usually I do it when I am either stopped or barely rolling and in neutral, I think that is better for it anyways than doing it at 15mph
b/c if you shift into 4lo at 15mph I would imagine that it is pretty violent.....
usually I do it when I am either stopped or barely rolling and in neutral, I think that is better for it anyways than doing it at 15mph
[size=75][url=http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/coffeedrnkr15/]The Crazyblaze[/url]
d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
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d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
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coffeedrnkr wrote:are you shifting into 4hi or 4lo??
b/c if you shift into 4lo at 15mph I would imagine that it is pretty violent.....
usually I do it when I am either stopped or barely rolling and in neutral, I think that is better for it anyways than doing it at 15mph
I'm shifting into 4HI. I'm starting to wonder if it's just one of the automatic hubs not engaging and that's why it's pulling to one side.
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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killian96ss
- Crew K Elite
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We don't have locking hubs like on a SFA. All we have is an IFS open front differential that will only power one wheel when engaged. Maybe your alignment is way off causing the pulling problem? Also whenever I shift into 4HI or 4LO, I always do it under 5 mph to avoid the harsh clunk you are describing.ace wrote:I'm starting to wonder if it's just one of the automatic hubs not engaging and that's why it's pulling to one side.
Steve
I know it's not the alignment because right after the 4wd disengages and after the clunk it doesn't pull to one side anymore. The last time this happened they found a vacuum hose off and then everything engaged fine. I checked the vacuum hoses that I could see and I couldn't find one off though. Also later on I had the actuater replaced because it wouldn't go into 4wd at all. I just wonder if something else is causing these things to fail or if it's a hub but I never thought that we don't have locking hubs I thought we do but their automatic not manual.killian96ss wrote:We don't have locking hubs like on a SFA. All we have is an IFS open front differential that will only power one wheel when engaged. Maybe your alignment is way off causing the pulling problem? Also whenever I shift into 4HI or 4LO, I always do it under 5 mph to avoid the harsh clunk you are describing.ace wrote:I'm starting to wonder if it's just one of the automatic hubs not engaging and that's why it's pulling to one side.
Steve
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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HenryJ
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You are probably just having trouble with the front differential engaging.
the right hand axle shaft has a collar that slides to connect the axle. This is what locks and unlocks the front axle. You should not be able to have one wheel engaged and feel it pull unless the spider gears are locked.
If you try engaging 4x4 when spinning the tires there is likely to be a pretty good clunk as it engages and the frontend trys to catch up with the spinning rear. This is awfully hard on the transfercase and front differential.
I would suggest inspecting the front differential lube for the correct level and signs of contamination. Metallic in the lube is a bad sign, as is water. Changing the lube would be a good idea regardless of what you find.
the right hand axle shaft has a collar that slides to connect the axle. This is what locks and unlocks the front axle. You should not be able to have one wheel engaged and feel it pull unless the spider gears are locked.
If you try engaging 4x4 when spinning the tires there is likely to be a pretty good clunk as it engages and the frontend trys to catch up with the spinning rear. This is awfully hard on the transfercase and front differential.
I would suggest inspecting the front differential lube for the correct level and signs of contamination. Metallic in the lube is a bad sign, as is water. Changing the lube would be a good idea regardless of what you find.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Dec 17, 2005 5:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I will check out the things you suggested. Thanks for help HJ as always.HenryJ wrote:You are probably just having trouble with the front differential engaging.
the right hand axle shaft has a collar that slides to connect the axle. This is what locks and unlocks the front axle. You should not be able to have one wheel engaged and feel it pull unless the spider gears are locked.
If you try engaging 4x4 when spinning the tires there is likely to be a pretty good clunk as it engages and the frontend trys to catch up with the spinning rear. This is awfully hard on the transfercase and front differential.
I would suggest inspecting the front differential lube for the correct level and signs of contamination. Metallic in the lube is a bad sign, as is water. Changing the lube would be a good idea regardless of what you find.
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
What would be cool right about now is a diagram of the front differential detailing the collar HJ mentioned. I've been searching to find one on the net but no luck yet.
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
Now when I think about this a little bit more It's kinda like you guys mentioned. It feels like when I hit 4HI it feels like it's going into 4lo.
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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killian96ss
- Crew K Elite
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Here is one.ace wrote:What would be cool right about now is a diagram of the front differential detailing the collar HJ mentioned. I've been searching to find one on the net but no luck yet.
I'm sure there are better diagrams out there if someone wants to look for one. I got this one from AllData, which is the same diagram GM Parts Direct shows on their site.
Steve
PROBLEM RESOLVED:
I guess I left out a huge piece of this puzzle. I had a flat tire a few days before this happened and I put on the compact spare (donut). I really didn't think much of it being a problem. Well I guess the compact spare is not even the same diameter as the stock tires I had (235 x 75 x 15). This caused the rear end to have a different gear ratio than the front thus causing the 4wd to not engage properly. Once I had the correct size tire on the problem was resolved. Guess I now realize how important it is to have a full size spare tire. I also think when I was in 2wd the limited slip messed up too because of the smaller tire on one side. Well just wanted to share my dilemma and how it resolved itself but lesson learned.
I guess I left out a huge piece of this puzzle. I had a flat tire a few days before this happened and I put on the compact spare (donut). I really didn't think much of it being a problem. Well I guess the compact spare is not even the same diameter as the stock tires I had (235 x 75 x 15). This caused the rear end to have a different gear ratio than the front thus causing the 4wd to not engage properly. Once I had the correct size tire on the problem was resolved. Guess I now realize how important it is to have a full size spare tire. I also think when I was in 2wd the limited slip messed up too because of the smaller tire on one side. Well just wanted to share my dilemma and how it resolved itself but lesson learned.
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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HenryJ
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That would do it 
Glad you figured it out 
Thanks so much for coming back here and letting everyone know too. That information may help someone in a similar situation someday.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
On a related note, once I get my 33's (Mystery Lift), what would the side affects be if I got a flat and used the full size (stock) spare? How far could you drive on it? 1, 5, 50 miles with out any issues?
2003 S10 Crew 4x4
Mods: 1.5" Front Spacers - GM Valley Hitch - WeatherTech WeatherFlectors - Bilstein Shocks - Boise Spring works 2" rear spring kit - Truxedo Toneau Cover - PopLock tailgate lock - Hypertech Tuning - SKIDS Flares - 2" Body Lift - ZR2 Axle upgrade
Mods: 1.5" Front Spacers - GM Valley Hitch - WeatherTech WeatherFlectors - Bilstein Shocks - Boise Spring works 2" rear spring kit - Truxedo Toneau Cover - PopLock tailgate lock - Hypertech Tuning - SKIDS Flares - 2" Body Lift - ZR2 Axle upgrade
I would say right away you would have a problem if you have a limited slip and you got a flat in the rear (unless you move your small tire to the front). You would also have the same problem I did no matter what though if you were planning on using 4wd on the way back. This whole problem has really got me thinking.ludwis wrote:On a related note, once I get my 33's (Mystery Lift), what would the side affects be if I got a flat and used the full size (stock) spare? How far could you drive on it? 1, 5, 50 miles with out any issues?
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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HenryJ
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I would go with the recommendations for using the factory compact spare. The difference may be close.ludwis wrote:On a related note, once I get my 33's (Mystery Lift), what would the side affects be if I got a flat and used the full size (stock) spare? How far could you drive on it? 1, 5, 50 miles with out any issues?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I often wondered about this. I know it is not good to run 2 diff. size tires on the same axle. I imagine it would be more of an issue on the rear axle but probably on the front also if 4wd is engaged. All of my prior trucks before this one had at least 35's on it. Most I didn't have a full size spare 
But my question (theory) is this- if you have to run 2 diff. size tires on the same axle for a short period of time such as a flat tire I thought that letting some air out of the taller tire would be better for the differential by not spinning at a different rate thus burning up the rear? Maybe not so much with an open rear but moreso with a lim. slip or locker. Am I in left field with this? Never had to test this theory but I figured if I had a 37 on one side and a 33" spare, let some air out of the 37 and get it closer to the spare 33" diameter. What do you think? 
But my question (theory) is this- if you have to run 2 diff. size tires on the same axle for a short period of time such as a flat tire I thought that letting some air out of the taller tire would be better for the differential by not spinning at a different rate thus burning up the rear? Maybe not so much with an open rear but moreso with a lim. slip or locker. Am I in left field with this? Never had to test this theory but I figured if I had a 37 on one side and a 33" spare, let some air out of the 37 and get it closer to the spare 33" diameter. What do you think? [size=75]98 4dr Blazer 5"TM 2"bl 33"BFG AT Flowmaster w/ duals http://community.webshots.com/user/chumleyd8
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killian96ss
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I would never run 2 different size tires on the rear if you have either a limited slip differential, or an automatic locker like the G80. Doing so will quickly burn up the clutch plates in a limited slip, and could cause the engagement pin in the auto locker to break. If the tires are very close in size like only a 1-2" difference then I think you would be ok as long as you go slow and don't travel a long distance. The best option even though it requires more work would be to take one of the front ties of the same size and use that one on the rear and put the smaller spare on the front since it is an open differential and can be disengaged. 
Steve
Steve