Anyone replaced their serpentine belt yet?

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 5:58 am

The folks at the local firestone (where I get my oil changed) have been practically begging me to replace mine the past five or six times I've been in there. So, right off the bat, I've got them beat for about year's worth of life in the belt

Last time I was in, they gave me a printout price quote for the job. I don't remember exactly but it was around $65 for the belt and $40 for install. Total was just about $110 after tax and disposal etc.

So, over the weekend I herd a ticking sound under the hood and after a closer look, suspect that the belt is finally ready to go. This morning I'm looking online for a belt. (No way I'm paying them $40 for a five minute job that doesn't require the removal of a single bolt.) And much to my shock and amazement, a replacement belt from autozone is only about $20.

So, now I'm wondering if I should spring the extra five bucks and get the fancy "gatorback" belt.

What I'm wondering really though is... what's with the 350% mark up at firestone? I think I'll find another place to get my oil changed from now on

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:34 am

i know that a few of the "firestone" stores here have been known to "adjust" their prices on parts and labor!!!
i cannot see it taking more than 15 minutes to replace the belt!!!

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:47 am

I'm guessing they've got a minimum labor charge. Anything less than 1/2 hour gets charged for a 1/2 hour. The mark up on parts is a bit ridiculous though.

I have found the goodyear gatorback belt priced at around $60 at few other places now that I've been looking. I guess they count on people not shopping the price around before buying.

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:57 am

Barch, how many miles you got?

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:37 am

68,000

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:43 am

if you dont wanna change it buy the belt and have them put it on

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 1:39 pm

My belt has been successfully replaced

Including the removal of JR's car seat to access and remove the lug wrench, removing the old belt, installing the new belt, replacing the lug wrench and washing hands... 14 minutes.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 1:41 pm

I'm gonna have to practice getting that lug wrench out and putting it back this weekend. That's the part that really slowed me down. I think I could have the belt replacement down to under ten minutes.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 4:56 pm

do you think "mechanix gloves" would help any in cutting the time down????

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:05 pm

Barch97, what belt did you end up using? I have the gatorback on all my vehicles, and they work great. The Goodyear Gatorback belt for our CC's is only $22.69 @ Summit. The Summit part # if anyone is interested is GTR-4060950.

Steve

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:42 am

I had planned to get the gatorback but they had none in stock. With snapping imminent, I settled for the "Kelly Springfield 950K6" for $19.99. For $20, I don't mind replacing it every year or so but, I suspect this one'll last about as long as the original.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:32 am

After reading this thread las Friday, I decided to check my belt - 2000 model, just rolle dover 51K on the clock.

Stock belt was cracked pretty badly, so I went to O'rileys for a new one, and a radiator flush kit, radiator cap, new antifreeze, and oil change supplies.

Guy brings me a $49 Gates serpentine belt. Told him he can put it back on the shelf for that - tha tI can get a belt elsewhere for around $20. his comment to that "Good luck finding one around here for that." I drove directly across the street to Autozone - they had the Kelly/springfield for $19.99, and the Gatorback for $24.99.

I should have walked back over to O'Rileys and shown it to him, but I had better things to do with my time. $93 worth of general maintenance in one morning/afternoon.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 18, 2005 11:24 am

Right on brotha...

Why tell him? Let him keep overcharging for the same product. He'll be out of business soon enough with that philosophy.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:17 pm

talk about some serious mark up

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Thu Apr 21, 2005 5:53 pm

barch97 wrote:I'm gonna have to practice getting that lug wrench out and putting it back this weekend. That's the part that really slowed me down. I think I could have the belt replacement down to under ten minutes.

Why are you using the lug wrench to change your belt? I'm guessing to pry on the pulley to allow slack in the belt. There is a much easier way. If you look under the tension pulley, there is a square hole there for a 3/8 drive. All you have to do is put a socket wrench with 3/8 drive in that hole and turn counter clockwise. This moves the tensioner in for slack on the belt. It was put there for that specific reason.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:35 pm

well damn -- I could have used the knowledge about a week ago

Maybe I'll remember it in another 50K when I decide to do it again.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:43 pm

Yellow Hammer wrote:...there is a square hole there for a 3/8 drive. All you have to do is put a socket wrench with 3/8 drive in that hole and turn counter clockwise. This moves the tensioner in for slack on the belt. ...

I'll add to that...Avoid mis-positioning the drive belt by one or more grooves.

Confirm for the proper drive belt size and the correct drive belt routing by observing the location of the fix pointer and the index marks on the drive belt tensioner. With a new drive belt installed the fix pointer should align within the indentation on the drive belt tensioner.

With a used drive belt installed the fix pointer should not align past the index mark.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Fri Apr 22, 2005 2:54 am

Yellow Hammer wrote:
barch97 wrote:I'm gonna have to practice getting that lug wrench out and putting it back this weekend. That's the part that really slowed me down. I think I could have the belt replacement down to under ten minutes.
Why are you using the lug wrench to change your belt? I'm guessing to pry on the pulley to allow slack in the belt. There is a much easier way. If you look under the tension pulley, there is a square hole there for a 3/8 drive. All you have to do is put a socket wrench with 3/8 drive in that hole and turn counter clockwise. This moves the tensioner in for slack on the belt. It was put there for that specific reason.

AH HA... I knew there had to be an easier way

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:13 pm

HenryJ wrote:I'll add to that...Avoid mis-positioning the drive belt by one or more grooves.

Confirm for the proper drive belt size and the correct drive belt routing by observing the location of the fix pointer and the index marks on the drive belt tensioner. With a new drive belt installed the fix pointer should align within the indentation on the drive belt tensioner.

With a used drive belt installed the fix pointer should not align past the index mark.

If the belt is misaligned, could this cause squeeling? And also, the fix pointer you speak of, is that a mark on a belt??

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:30 pm

The pointer is on the belt tensioner itself.