How do I get the back rotors off?

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Gary H
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How do I get the back rotors off?

Post by Gary H »

I'm doing the back brakes on the CC and need to either replace or machine the rotors but I can't get them off. It's like they are welded to the axles. I've tried every trick I know and nothing works.

Any ideas? These are the originals and have never been off.
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Post by HenryJ »

I will assume you have the parking brake off, and have removed the caliper with its associated hardware.

The axle flange and rotor can tend to rust together. Soaking all the cracks and crevices with a good penetrating oil will help. Then you will need a BFH. I have a 5lb brass hammer for such work. It does not damage the rotor as much as a steel hammer might.
A large punch, brass or other wise might be a good idea too. Strike between the wheel studs. The idea is to jar the two and break loose the rust that is gluing it all together.
Don't strike the braking surface or edge. If you must do that a plastic dead blow hammer would be the tool of choice. You really don't want to damage or warp that surface. A swat to the side of the hat might help a little once you see a little loosening.

Worst case. Do what you have to and remove them. Then buy new rotors.

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Gary H
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Post by Gary H »

Thanks Brule. I think I have a can of "liquid Wrench" downstairs. I'll start soaking. I tried hitting between the studs but I was using a small hammer and wasn't hitting anything very hard. Didn't want to mess things up.

Way back when I worked for Toyota, they used small counter sunk phillips screws to hold on the rotors and drums. If everything was rusty enough, the rust would hide the screws and if one didn't know they were there.... I just wondered if there was anything like that here. I mean these things just won't budge.
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Post by Gary H »

Oh, and yeah the parking brake is off, the calipers removed AND I took the spacers off too! :lol:
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Post by HenryJ »

A small hammer may do more damage than good. A few very hard big swats from your biggest beating tool will probably get the job done.

Don't laugh about the parking brake thing. I have a friend who had been beating the wholy heck out of his rear brake drums. He was sure that the lip worn on the inside was holding them. There were no adjuster slots and he was baffled. I really pissed him off when I released the parking brake and slid the drums off :lol:

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Post by Gary H »

HenryJ wrote:Don't laugh about the parking brake thing. I have a friend who had been beating the wholy heck out of his rear brake drums. He was sure that the lip worn on the inside was holding them. There were no adjuster slots and he was baffled. I really pissed him off when I released the parking brake and slid the drums off :lol:
Oh, believe me, I'll admit, I've done it too. Very humiliating!
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Post by roadrunner »

If all else fails including the hammer beating method get hold of a torch. (oxy-acy) Use a medium cutting head or small heating head and heat in a slow circle around the axle between the flange and the studs. Take care not to burn any threads on the studs. In most cases it takes very little heating to free up the rotor or brake drum either. You will usually hear an audible clink when this happens. They take a pair of gloves (just in case you'd like not to burn your hands) and slide the rotor off.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Post by Gary H »

roadrunner wrote:If all else fails including the hammer beating method get hold of a torch. (oxy-acy) Use a medium cutting head or small heating head and heat in a slow circle around the axle between the flange and the studs. Take care not to burn any threads on the studs. In most cases it takes very little heating to free up the rotor or brake drum either. You will usually hear an audible clink when this happens. They take a pair of gloves (just in case you'd like not to burn your hands) and slide the rotor off.
Thanks. I think that's what I'll try next. I just hope my neighbor still has his torch setup. Everything else has failed so far. I was really thinking about putting it all back together and haul it to a local repair place and let them have at it but I'll try the torch first.
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Post by Gary H »

Thanks Roadrunner! The torch did the trick! I had to use a small propane torch so it took a little longer but it worked.

If you were local, I'd buy you a beer!
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Post by roadrunner »

You're welcome! If you did buy me one I'd certainly drink it to your success. :cheers:
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.